New Samsung 4k for everyone.

WorldExclusive said:
I'm using a MSI Gaming GTX 960 without issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I almost fail to observe MSI. This MSI GAMING series looks like a great bay for my needs. Dos MSI card have super efficient, and quiet cooling system as Asus Strix GTX 960 have?

Can you please let me know which particular model from MSI Gaming series did you have?

They manufacture 6 models.

GTX 960 GAMING 2G
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-2G.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 2G LE
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-2G-LE.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 4G
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-4G.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 4G LE
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-4G-LE.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 100ME
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-100ME.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING LE 100ME
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-LE-100ME.html#hero-overview
 
No019 said:
Thanks,

I almost fail to observe MSI. This MSI GAMING series looks like a great bay for my needs. Dos MSI card have super efficient, and quiet cooling system as Asus Strix GTX 960 have?

Can you please let me know which particular model from MSI Gaming series did you have?

They manufacture 6 models.

GTX 960 GAMING 2G
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-2G.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 2G LE
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-2G-LE.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 4G
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-4G.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 4G LE
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-4G-LE.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING 100ME
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-100ME.html#hero-overview

GTX 960 GAMING LE 100ME
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/GTX-960-GAMING-LE-100ME.html#hero-overview
Click to expand...

Jesus. I fail to see the need for so many different 960 variants from the same manufacturer!

The aftermarket coolers are usually pretty good from all vendors. Asus has the DirectCU, MSI has the Gaming, Evga has the ACX2.0+.

Everyone has their favorite brand. I've had most of them at this point, and none have really disappointed me.

I'm not 100% clear on where the difference lies between MSI's GAMING series and their Twin Frozr series though.

I had an MSI Twin Frozr once, and while it felt a little flimsy, it performed well, and did its job. The best of the aftermarket air coolers I've had were probably the massive three Slot Asus DirectCUII coolers in my dual 6970's I ahd a few years back. They were nice and quiet (unless you turned them up) Very effective cooling.

I currently have two EVGA 980ti ACX2.0+ SC cards, and I'm liking them. They perform quite well without getting too noisy, but I am still looking forward to adding a couple of Corsairs HG10 N980's to them along with a couple of H90 coolers.

I'll be much happier when I am blowing the heat of those things outside my case instead of inside.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041681002 said:
Ahh. Thanks! I see it now!

My next question is, why am I greyed out and locked in "limited" output dynamic range?

18840237190_26dbe69dba_o.jpg


I see the same thing in Linux.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Honeydew said:
Should I be using the YCbCr444 output color format instead of RGB? Any other tweaks in the Nvidia Control Panel I should pursue?
Click to expand...

Zarathustra[H];1041681266 said:
That is really going to depend on your tastes.

The consensus tends to be that YCbCr444 is the best.

Personally, I am going to disagree with many in here who like the colors on these panels. I find it to be almost cartoonishly over-saturated. I plan on turning down saturation a bit in the Nvidia control panel.
Click to expand...

Sup fellas. Sorry to bring up and older post, but I wondered what the majority of you guys were using as far as output format? I thought RGB Full was the best for PC monitor use, but seeing as how these are TV's I heard that YCBCR was better and introduces less compression via HDMI 2.0. Anyone care to elaborate on what theyuse and why?


Addendum-Found a site that talks about this very topic using NVidia and AMD GPU's/drivers. Apparently using RGB Full versus YCBCr444, nets about the same similar color output. So it is basically up to user interpretation to see what "Looks better" to his/her eyes. You can read on it at this

site-->https://pcmonitors.info/articles/correcting-hdmi-colour-on-nvidia-and-amd-gpus/
 
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lachdanan said:
Any of you guys use 2 of these curved monitors side by side? I can imagine that as a worthy upgrade from my dual 30" samsung 305t. Either that or a giant 50+" display but that will create some UI size issues, UI elements showing much larger than normal unless I am missing something.

Also I use it for 3d work and the app I use tend to favor dual setups in optimal UI layout.

The only issue is, I might be wrong but 40" seems a little small, and 48 seems a little large. Wish they made 44" or something, or 42 :)

Btw where are you guys buying these displays? Doing a quick search I see prices over $1.2k and above for the 40" curved. Why are they much more expensive than other displays like Crossover, Wasabi with their 42/43" displays? The brand name doesn't justify double the price if that's the case. All samsung 305t models are plagued by design flaws, so it's not like samsung is a rock star.
Click to expand...

Hey! There are a couple of us running multiple Samsung TV. I am running dual 40" 6700's on either side of a 48" JS9000. They are all curved. I do think the curve on the center is the most important, but for a large setup the little bit of curve on the side displays does help pull the image a bit closer.

Here are a couple of quick photos (an older one and two from tonight):

Front view
MRN8jNp.png

Side view 1
xyS7s5N.jpg

Side view 2
4Cn2FRb.jpg


I hope this helps.
 
BTW - hey guys! I've been away from the thread since early August. Just got caught up...!

Thanks for keeping the discussion alive!
 
Island said:
Sup fellas. Sorry to bring up and older post, but I wondered what the majority of you guys were using as far as output format? I thought RGB Full was the best for PC monitor use, but seeing as how these are TV's I heard that YCBCR was better and introduces less compression via HDMI 2.0. Anyone care to elaborate on what theyuse and why?


Addendum-Found a site that talks about this very topic using NVidia and AMD GPU's/drivers. Apparently using RGB Full versus YCBCr444, nets about the same similar color output. So it is basically up to user interpretation to see what "Looks better" to his/her eyes. You can read on it at this

site-->https://pcmonitors.info/articles/correcting-hdmi-colour-on-nvidia-and-amd-gpus/
Click to expand...

These days the consensus is that a properly matched RGB full is the best.

Initially the YCBCr444 was recommended as there was a bug in early firmwares.

This is deprecated at this point
 
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Still waiting on that updated firmware with HDMI 2.0a/HDR support. I never understand why these big companies announce stuff as "available now" when they're clearly not.
 
vorpel said:
Hey! There are a couple of us running multiple Samsung TV. I am running dual 40" 6700's on either side of a 48" JS9000. They are all curved. I do think the curve on the center is the most important, but for a large setup the little bit of curve on the side displays does help pull the image a bit closer.

Here are a couple of quick photos (an older one and two from tonight):

Front view
MRN8jNp.png

Side view 1
xyS7s5N.jpg

Side view 2
4Cn2FRb.jpg


I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

That's a nice set up! Gaming/movies on the middle tv and the two sides used for other uses I'm guessing?
 
ErMejo86 said:
I have one hdmi port in my GTX 980.

And 'curious that until a few weeks ago, the bios and safe mode were displayed correctly
Click to expand...

You can plug a DVI to HDMI or DP to HDMI cable into another port on the TV and use that for when you need POST access.

Also check that your motherboards video out hasnt become enabled.
 
@Skott

Correct. I use the center display for gaming and dedicated media watching. I will watch video on either of the si de displays if I am working on stuff and not focusing on the media.

I really like the setup, but the pixel pitch difference does take some getting used to (side displays have higher PPI). When I get to the point of getting back to running 3 systems - one on each display, I will be able to adjust the font scaling on the 40" displays to make them more like the 48". This isn't a big deal, and with the size of each display area, I don't currently and don't foresee spanning windows.

Since my wife doesn't real this forum, I think I might steal her 48" 6700 and try it in place of one of the 40" 6700s - just not sure if the extra size will fit (the new display stand cost too much to redo it now, so either a 48" will work, or I'll stick with 40's on the sides)
 
Question to JS9000 owners. What is the model number of your remote, is it "RMCTPJ1AP2" or "RMCTPJ1AP1"? The only reason i need to know is because i have a JU6700 i have to return since i got the JS9000, and don't remember which remote is which. Although i doubt it matters.
 
rpmucha23 said:
@Deadfreak

Got a JS9000, the remote is a AP1 on mine.
Click to expand...

AP2 on my JU7500. Otherwise my TV is good. Panel is almost flawless - 0 dead, 1 like "dusty" pixel (All subpixels are working. I saw other users here have it too) - can be seen only on pretty light background in the left upper corner and 1 green stuck next to the bezel on the right. So no worries. This panel has 8.3 mil. pixels so 1 ... 3 or 4 are pretty good. The picture is amazing - no backlight bleed or clouding. The screen is EPIC in this regard. I happy with it.
 
rpmucha23 said:
@Deadfreak

Got a JS9000, the remote is a AP1 on mine.
Click to expand...

JS9000 = AP1
JU6700 = AP2

Confirmed with 2 JU6700's and 1 JS9000

Another way to tell is that the wrong remote will not do anything but power. All other buttons are unique to the TV the remote came with.
 
6700 here - is there any way to get the set to automatically connect to a paired bluetooth speaker when that speaker turns on? I have to go into settings every time and get it to connect.
 
Hey guys, I've had the ju6500 (european curved version) for some time now and I decided to show you a quick and easy mod I made on the TV in order for it to stay flush on the desk.
gI0UnZA.jpg

Soon after I got my TV I found out I could lower it down by sliding the stand below the desk and making the actual screen rest on the desk.
kSGpUMI.jpg

As you can see, I encountered an annoying problem... the ir receiver or whatever it is, was protruding from below and it raised the TV on one side, so I decided to open up the back of my TV and see if I could do anything about it.
NJMxnDe.jpg

Luckily, the led thing wasn't screwed in or anything so I managed to take it out of it's place with ease. I noticed the hole for the controls on the back of the TV was big enough to run the led through it, so I decided to take out the little controls which unplug from the main board and then can be unscrewed from their place.
w1MH0nY.jpg

Here's a closer look of the controls on the back.
Tphfq9U.jpg

The controls taken out.
AFBBgyX.jpg

I ran the led through the hole for the controls in the back.
ooAGJIc.jpg

And I covered the hole from where the led was with some tape.
7FN8Ct1.jpg

The led has two feet which can conveniently slide between the bezels of the TV
BnyRi6P.jpg

I slected my preffered height for the led, right above the speaker.
MRn7Pa9.jpg

Everything's looking good now, I hope my post helped and I'm sorry if it's too long.

Here's the imgur album with the full res images in case you want to zoom in a little http://imgur.com/a/K3hjU

P.S. I can't believe I'm saying this, but the best monitor I've ever used is a TV!
 
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Interesting mod. Is your screen dead/stuck pixel free?

p.p. Panel is made in Slovakia which is interesting.I thought that they make them in Korea and assemble in Slovakia only, but ...
 
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z0ne said:
Interesting mod. Is your screen dead/stuck pixel free?

p.p. Panel is made in Slovakia which is interesting.I thought that they make them in Korea and assemble in Slovakia only, but ...
Click to expand...

Yup, there isn't anything wrong with the panel and I find the TV well built and really easy to disassemble/fiddle with.
 
I'm thinking of going with the following:

- 1 * 40" Samsung JU7100 (main display @ 4k, 110 PPI)
- 1 * 27" Dell U2715H (side display @ 1440p, 109 PPI)

One reason for picking those two are that they have fairly similar PPI so moving windows from one to another won't require adjusting my eyes to varying text sizes all the time. Another reason is that I feel that 48" would be too large for a monitor, and the 7100 is the highest version available in both flat and 40". Do these reasons make sense? Or should I really consider 48" + varying PPIs as they are disparate displays (not planning on running any single application as multi-monitor)?

Also, has anyone tried mounting one of these 4k TVs for a multi-monitor setup?
 
The flush mount on the desk just made my mind up on getting a 40 inch 4k or a 34 inch ultra wide. So getting the 40 inch shit is so sexy flush mount on the desk.
 
Makeroflostsouls said:
The flush mount on the desk just made my mind up on getting a 40 inch 4k or a 34 inch ultra wide. So getting the 40 inch shit is so sexy flush mount on the desk.
Click to expand...

Got a link to the mount? I'm thinking of mounting to the desk with a multi-monitor arm mount as well, not to the wall.
 
Hi guys,

Need some help with my UN48JS9000. I'm using it as my main monitor through HDMI and am having trouble getting it to automatically power off when no signal is detected. I have been putting my PC to sleep and my other samsung TVs will power off after 15 minutes with no signal but my JS9000 does not. The only difference is the JS9000 is direct connect HDMI while the other two are display port converted to HDMI from my GTX980Ti.

I set this in system / echo solution / no signal power off = 15 min.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm not able to find much on the interwebs.
 
Nenu said:
You can plug a DVI to HDMI or DP to HDMI cable into another port on the TV and use that for when you need POST access.

Also check that your motherboards video out hasnt become enabled.
Click to expand...

Are you sure that's working ???
 
greyx said:
Are you sure that's working ???
Click to expand...

I dont have the TV so cannot confirm directly but...
You can be sure that the POST output is coming from the card on at least one output.
The TV will be able to receive the POST signal.
So its a matter of how to make it happy.


Have you verified that you motherboards video out isnt functioning?
If it is, this can cause the POST signal to go only to that.
This can also stop a display in safe mode.
When Windows loads normally, it will output to whatever you have already told it to.
 
There is more than one way of causing it.
I gave you some solutions that are worth trying.
HDMI 1.4 response may not be the same as HDMI 2.0
 
Tealck said:
Hi guys,

Need some help with my UN48JS9000. I'm using it as my main monitor through HDMI and am having trouble getting it to automatically power off when no signal is detected. I have been putting my PC to sleep and my other samsung TVs will power off after 15 minutes with no signal but my JS9000 does not. The only difference is the JS9000 is direct connect HDMI while the other two are display port converted to HDMI from my GTX980Ti.

I set this in system / echo solution / no signal power off = 15 min.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm not able to find much on the interwebs.
Click to expand...


That is odd.

Mine will obey the setting and turn off.

I do occasionally come back and find the screen on though, which is odd, and I can't figure out why it happens.
 
DrFish96 said:
Yup, there isn't anything wrong with the panel and I find the TV well built and really easy to disassemble/fiddle with.
Click to expand...

I'm sure that you have 1 at least. There is no perfect panels. May be you can see them, cuz 4K @ 40" the pixel is relatively small. Also most of the stuck pixels are visible at "special" angle. :)
 
If you are using a DVI to HDMI or DP to HDMI, they will not be HDMI 2.0.
Also not all the inputs on the TV are HDMI 2.0 (from what I have read).
Read my original post to understand why I am posting this.
I am not saying there is anything wrong with your HDMI cable and havent given the slightest indication of that.
 
Nenu said:
If you are using a DVI to HDMI or DP to HDMI, they will not be HDMI 2.0.
Also not all the inputs on the TV are HDMI 2.0 (from what I have read).
Read my original post to understand why I am posting this.
I am not saying there is anything wrong with your HDMI cable and havent given the slightest indication of that.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure this is 100% correct.

If you use a DVI to HDMI converter on a 9xx series Nvidia card, I believe others confirmed before in this thread that it does in fact output HDMI2.0

(it won't on older video cards though)

Agree on the inputs though. I forget which model Greyx got, but on the 6xxx sweries I believe only one of the hdmi ports is 2.0.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041867121 said:
If you use a DVI to HDMI converter on a 9xx series Nvidia card, I believe others confirmed before in this thread that it does in fact output HDMI2.0
Click to expand...

Ah yes, thanks for the correction.
 
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