Yes, but what about for the fv43u ?1080 Ti doesn't have HDMI 2.1 so on CX48 you will be limited to only 4K60 4:4:4 8bit or 4K60 4:2:0 with HDR if i remember.
Short answer: if you aren't planning to change GPU then DP is the way to go
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Yes, but what about for the fv43u ?1080 Ti doesn't have HDMI 2.1 so on CX48 you will be limited to only 4K60 4:4:4 8bit or 4K60 4:2:0 with HDR if i remember.
Short answer: if you aren't planning to change GPU then DP is the way to go
I also have an EVGA 1080 ti as well.
If I get the Aorus FV43U and us
Yes, but what about for the fv43u ?
HDMI limitation will be the same on the FV43U. The 1080 Ti doesn't support DSC over DisplayPort, so you will be limited by the max refresh rate you can use without using chroma subsampling. The specific resolutions you'll be able to set before chroma subsampling are forced are shown on the previous page. The short of it is 120 Hz in SDR, 98 Hz in HDR over DisplayPort.Yes, but what about for the fv43u ?
Could you share your settings for "picture"? Brightness contrast etc etc.
I come from an ips monitor and the colors of fv43u are too light for me.
I don't find a good setting for the colors.
I am using it on ps5 and I would like some settings in SDR.What GPU are you using, are you running with HDR turned on in Windows setting? If so which HDR mode are you using? You cannot adjust settings in HDR mode on the monitor but you can adjust it in nVidia conrol panel if you're using a nVidia card.
The PS5 settings come with a program that helps you calibrate your display. I forgot where exactly it is, and it might just be for HDR, but it will at least help you dial in gamma, brightness and contrast which should help with the colors appearing "light."I am using it on ps5 and I would like some settings in SDR.
two thingsI confirmed my own suspicions--the Aorus is definitely faster. Went out and bought a refurbished CX from Microcenter for $999 because I couldn't keep the Aorus without satisfying my curiosity. It's an amazing TV but I'm not sure it's a better computer monitor. I absolutely love the picture quality but the input lag is just a touch higher. Combined with the lower refresh rate and brightness, Destiny 2 just didn't feel as responsive playing competitive.
Overall, I think you would be crazy to go with anything else if you mostly play story based games though. Will have to do a lot more testing in order to make a decision though. Boy, is tech fun in 2021. Too many good options! It's a nice problem to have.
Update: Ok, so one significant disadvantage of the OLED compared to the Aorus is that only in game mode (even when in PC mode) can you get the lowest input lag. That means if you're wanting a different image (game mode is somewhat dim compared to the more hyped, colorful modes) than you can't have it with the lowest input lag.
Ps5 has the program to calibrate the hdr not the SDR. The problem that sometimes I use the PIP while I play and it isn't possible to set hdr in pip mode (at least this I saw)The PS5 settings come with a program that helps you calibrate your display. I forgot where exactly it is, and it might just be for HDR, but it will at least help you dial in gamma, brightness and contrast which should help with the colors appearing "light."
Ps5 has the program to calibrate the hdr not the SDR. The problem that sometimes I use the PIP while I play and it isn't possible to set hdr in pip mode (at least this I saw)
I set some custom settings but I have the feeling that the color red is a bit too much "red".
I hoped that someone here can suggest some picture settings to make some try.
Yes I know but I asked to share some setting.If you're playing SDR game, turn off HDR on the FV43U and you can adjust all the normal setting like color and contrast.
So to summarize this.
With an older 1.4 display port(no DSC) what is achievable is:
4k 4:4:4 98hz HDR
4k 4:2:2 120hz HDR
4k 4:4:4 120hz SDR
Looking for a final confirmation before pulling the trigger
Hdmi supports up to 120hz.Should we be connecting this using an HDMI cable or a DisplayPort cable? I just ordered one from NewEgg and am wondering what's the best way to setup the monitor out of the box. Can anyone share their initial setup/settings process? I have an RTX 3090 if that matters.
I finally ordered the monitor.
I now game on a 55' TV which allows me 4k 4:4:4 60hz.
If I cannot exceed this refresh rate with same settings I will return the monitor.
I hope I can achieve 98hz with my 1080ti, and wait untill GPUs prices go back to normal.
That makes sense. Surprised no one else talked much about it unless the unit I had just had terrible uniformity.I don't think that's banding. That's just shit uniformity and also one of the main reasons I ditched mine. I had vertical bars on two parts of the screen that were visible in a lot of content.
The other term for that is dirty screen effect.
From my experience if one has it, they all do with varying degrees of severity. It's more prominent the bigger the display.That makes sense. Surprised no one else talked much about it unless the unit I had just had terrible uniformity.
The pics takens were from Firefox darkmode on a new tab (without anything on it). I wouldn't worry about it unless you can actually see it when viewing regular things as I did. This forum with dark reader add on showed it as well. A completely black screen would just show the black uniformity.YouOnlyLiveTwice28,
what is the safest/easiest way to reproduce the issue?
A completely black screen?
QC on montior in general is garbage. Doesn't matter if it is a $100 monitor or $2k.Just returned mine to NewEgg. What a waste of money on express shipping . Had a small blotch of dead pixels as well as what looked like a smudge under the screen in another area. Really upset that this was over a $1,000 and they can't QC these panels very well. I currently have an older Dell Alienware 3440x1440 120Hz Ultrawide. From playing on the 43inch 4k panel for a few hours, the larger screen really helps picking out enemies in the distance in games like Squad and Hell Let Loose. I did notice the pixel density seemed a little lacking. Also in fast movement during Doom Eternal I felt like I could see the panel. I'm not sure how to describe it, but during fast, frantic mouse movement spinning, it felt as if I could see vertical lines bleeding into the image. I'm not really sure what would have caused that. Other than that, it seemed really nice compared to my current setup. I think I am going to keep returning the panels until I get one without dirt or dead pixels. I really liked the monitor.
I think this is mostly because 90% of users are blind/don't care so monitor manufacturers get away with it. I mean this actually applies to all forms of consumer products.QC on montior in general is garbage. Doesn't matter if it is a $100 monitor or $2k.
QC on montior in general is garbage. Doesn't matter if it is a $100 monitor or $2k.
I think this is mostly because 90% of users are blind/don't care so monitor manufacturers get away with it. I mean this actually applies to all forms of consumer products.
Being selective/picky about my displays is both a gift and a curse. I wish I could be as naive/ignorant toward what I'm looking at as some and settle on just about anything but this goes hand in hand with not caring about graphical quality or fidelity in the games/content I consume which just isn't happening for me personally (I'm a graphics whore).
A lot of it comes down to experience IMO. I've owned almost every display under the sun so you develop an eye for things. I don't expect a person whose owned 3 monitors over the past 2 decades to understand. Could I sit over their shoulder and point these things out to them in 10 minutes and cause a once seen cannot be unseen situation that will forever ruin their display, yes.
Sometimes it's better to be the blind consumer but at the same time playing with new toys is fun and has become a hobby.
I can't unsee BLB. I drives me nuts on dark screens. Haloing is also terrible. It is one the reasons I love OLEDs.It's because our current technology cannot produce perfect panels. The higher demand you want, the lower the yield but someone still have to pay for the less than perfect panels. Perfect example is Apple, look at what they used to cost before they got out of the business because they only want A+ panels. This also create all the cheap Korean monitor monitors as even with Apple paying a premium for their panels, the manufacturers still have to off load the lower grade panels at a low cost to cover production cost.
It is also the fact that 90% of the consumer will not notice minor defects that enable you to get TVs and monitors at the current price level. The only thing I check on a new monitor/TV is cluster of dead pixels or stuck bright pixels. Other than that, I don't even check for backlight bleed or put up test patterns unless something jump out at me during normal operations. Why? Because it will only bring you grief. The problem is that it's all the luck of the dram and you can't even get anything better even if you're willing to pay for it.
I can't unsee BLB. I drives me nuts on dark screens. Haloing is also terrible. It is one the reasons I love OLEDs.
Then you're destined to live in grief as you can't even get better ones even if you're willing to pay for it or you're willing to live with a gimped technologyI don't have to check for defects through test patterns of specific scenarios. This stuff is visible in regular use it's just a matter of how sensitive you are to it.
I don't live in a blacked out environment. It bothers me with the room fully lit or blacked out.Cause you work in a darker environment, The only time I see the BLB on my CG437 (all 4 corners) is on a static black screen. The rest of the time I can't see it.
I'm now having an issue where the monitor will not wake up when powering on the device connected via HDMI. I believe someone else in this thread was having a similar issue.
Previously all was fine. Had my PC connected to displayport, nVidia Shield connected to HDMI. Both devices would wake the monitor every time. I've now added an Xbox Series X to HDMI 2. The Xbox woke the monitor just fine the first time I powered on the Xbox.
Now the monitor won't wake when I turn on my nVidia Shield or Xbox (Xbox instant on feature is enabled). PC wakes the monitor fine. To turn on the monitor, I have to now press the power button then very quickly select input>HDMI2. Must be done quickly or else it goes back to sleep.
I think it might be the instant on feature of the Xbox, but still doesn't explain why the nVidia Shield won't wake it.
I'll mess with it more tonight.
It has a BGR sub-pixel array. So not perfect text with standard clear type or clear type off.Does this panel have an RGB sub pixel array ? so that it looks good too, when using as PC monitor
I have a Series X connected to my FV43U. I've only owned the Series X for two days, but as far as I can tell it is HDMI 2.1. I have mines running at 4K 120Hz 10bit.So guys no one here has a FV43U and Xbox Series X? I am reading in the Gigabyte 32" thread that none of these Gigabyte "HDMI 2.1" monitors is actually 2.1 and therefore cannot support full chroma at 4k120 (only 4:2:0 chroma). Is this correct?