A quick Google search shows NE having three Noctua C-14 still in stock. $99 though but if you want best hsf cooling I would say it's worth it. If that's too rich for you just get a U9S.
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
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A quick Google search shows NE having three Noctua C-14 still in stock. $99 though but if you want best hsf cooling I would say it's worth it. If that's too rich for you just get a U9S.
Located in Aus
. The AUS version of NE does not have stock sadly.Located in Aus
Oh, sorry about that. Can you get your hands on a U9S? That's probably the closest you'll get to max cooling (using air) after the C14. People have used AIO units but the tubes can be tricky to coil without kinking but some have had success with them. Because this is such a small case I would say stick with air hsf units. We know they work and they are less troublesome to install. Just my own opinion of course.
I'm sure I could source one if needed, was just hoping for a top-down haha. Yeah I tried both a H60 previously and didn't help much and the tubes are unforgiving. Then i got a 240MM rad but the pump was loud. Air is definitely the way to go given I care a lot about acoustics.. I'll see how I go with the U9B-SE2 again. I also found a post on here of the Dark Rock TF fitting with the Z77i deluxe, but either 'kissing' the first ram stick or hitting the GPU by a mm or two. The board has a very similar layout to mine so I imagine it'd be similar. Damn Noctua.. Why'd they change the height of the C14S lol. (i know for RAM compatibility but still!).
EDIT: Hmm what about the Silverstone NT06-Pro ?? looks reasonable. Cheaper. In stock multiple places.. Can put one of my Gentle Typhoons on the top at 1150rpm. Further edit, seems to perform similar if not a touch worse than the U9B, and i just realised it may be too close to the board.. my USB 3.0 connector is in a lovely awkward spot so it'll likely block that (the reason I've shyed away from the Cryorig C1). C14 was tall enough that it avoids this issue. Lame. (EXTRA EDIT This Post suggests it'll clear my USB 3.0 header.. hmmmm.)
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I would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.
So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard
Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).
I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.
Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.
The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.
With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.
So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard
Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).
I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.
Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.
The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.
With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.
Tkaing off the plastic makes me so nervous about shorting out the video cardI would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.
So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard
Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).
I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.
Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.
The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.
With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.
Which platic? The gfx card is untouched and the caps on the dark rock tf are aluminum.
WhackingCheese
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Ooooh someone who has the tf in exact position that i want to have it with a motherboard that has all of the major components in the same position as mine. Tell me son, how much room is there between the heatsink and the back intake? Can one fit a fan that is thicker than 15mm? I hope that my calculations were incorrect or that the pictures that i made them using were made from a perspective that could mislead me. ThanksI would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.
So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard
Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).
I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.
Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.
The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.
With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.
They might be metal, but they're most likely aluminum so there should be no chance of shorting out, since aluminum is non-conductive. If you take the black caps off however, the heatpipes are most likely copper, which as we all know is a highly conductive metal, both in terms of heat and power, this however does not mean that even if it were to be touching any of the exposed contact points on the back of the card, like for example a simple smd cap that it would short it out.
Edit: Anodized aluminum, damnit.
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Qrash
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All metal is electrically conductive, though anodized aluminum is not. Perhaps this is what you were referring to. If removing the caps allows a non-conductive backplate to added to the graphics card, then that is what I'd do.
WhackingCheese
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Was indeed referring to anodized aluminum since the top and the caps do look like they're anodized. That being said though i just took a look at the spec sheet for the cooler and it's just simply brushed aluminum so my whole point is invalid.
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
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As I fiddle/diddle with my build, this Corsair H100I V1 AIO is one major hassle to install in the M1. And then with the possibility of getting a kink developing in the hoses due to the twisting stress they are under once in position... I'm having my strong doubts about using this AIO in the M1.
Because I was planning on the AIO for my CPU cooling, I have ignored any posts in this thread that began by talking about which HSF unit people were using and why.
Since I am now strongly considering a HSF setup instead, could folks save me time and tell me which CPU HSF would be best and easiest to install for these components:
Asus Z170I Pro Gaming MB, i7-6700k (may OC eventually), Corsair SF600 PSU, one SSD, no internal optical units, and an nVidia 1080-FE.
Thanks.
Because I was planning on the AIO for my CPU cooling, I have ignored any posts in this thread that began by talking about which HSF unit people were using and why.
Since I am now strongly considering a HSF setup instead, could folks save me time and tell me which CPU HSF would be best and easiest to install for these components:
Asus Z170I Pro Gaming MB, i7-6700k (may OC eventually), Corsair SF600 PSU, one SSD, no internal optical units, and an nVidia 1080-FE.
Thanks.
I don't know about easiest but the Noctua NH C-14 is the best for the M1. It can still be found if you look around. Then there a whole slew of other hsf that will work fine too. The U9S is a popular one right now. Go back and read the thread some. You will see a lot of posts about hsf people are using.
Agreed on these two. I have both and really wanted to use the C14, but it takes up part of the front half of the side bracket (can't use hybrid GPU)
Hello everyone!
Valgaur here, yes the delidded guy from OCN, no worries on crazy content and such, here for ncase M1 stuffs
Not often I log in on [H] but once I was directed to this thread for this case, I had to post.
First of all a major thank you and shout out to rfarmer for sending me this way as I mainly domain at OCN and have used [H] a bit here and there. So thank you sir! Secondly is a thank you to everyone here, the information and recommendations here are simply amazing.
Ever since I found this case I've been sold, absolutely since day one. So much so I'm planning an entire new build and want to take my first custom water cooling setup in this case as well. I'd be moving from my monstrous Cosmos 2 to this guy. You can say I'm excited in the least. Apart from the thank you to everyone and rfarmer I have a few questions.
Chapeau - With the GTS rad, were there any issues in regards to the front IO? I'm looking to do a similar bottom mount as you have done, also following the dremel use for a friction fit on the fans. Also how are temps looking with just the slim 240? reason I ask is I'm debating putting a 92mm rad on the rear but I'm not sure, as I have an HDD that needs to find a spot in here and an additional fan would help with positive pressure. Anyone have thoughts on this as well? Also, glad delidding help your temps problem
MarkRWatts or anyone here - with the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5, does this line up with the 4 holes on the front face of the case? Or does this require the 3D printed adapter I saw a while back?
Now for everyone I'd like to talk tubing a bit. I'm torn between soft tubing and hardline for this build. Hardline looks much neater and appears less cluttery. This would be my first WC build, but I have all the equipment for hardline. Which is the most efficient way in this build from everyone viewpoint? Lastly, should I slap a 92mm rad on the back or ignore it and run just the slim in the bottom.
Thoughts recommendations welcome! Thank you all once again for all this amazing information, and thank you for the notice of this thread rfarmer!
-Val
Valgaur here, yes the delidded guy from OCN, no worries on crazy content and such, here for ncase M1 stuffs
Not often I log in on [H] but once I was directed to this thread for this case, I had to post.
First of all a major thank you and shout out to rfarmer for sending me this way as I mainly domain at OCN and have used [H] a bit here and there. So thank you sir! Secondly is a thank you to everyone here, the information and recommendations here are simply amazing.
Ever since I found this case I've been sold, absolutely since day one. So much so I'm planning an entire new build and want to take my first custom water cooling setup in this case as well. I'd be moving from my monstrous Cosmos 2 to this guy. You can say I'm excited in the least. Apart from the thank you to everyone and rfarmer I have a few questions.
Necere - Do you know what the specification of the case feet mounting screws are? I'm trying to source a longer replacement. Size + thread pitch would be helpful.
I'm all out of ideas for the WC setup. I'm still getting a fairly large differential between CPU and GPU temps. On load I'm getting in the vicinity of 75 - 80 degrees on the CPU and 55 degrees on the GPU. I'm re-mounted the CPU block more times than I care to count and made sure to bleed the system well.
Is this differential normal?
My 6600K OC is 4.5 @ 1.264V, GPU 2113MHz core, 4599MHz memory. I'm realistically pushing what can be achieved with a somewhat poor radiator location. But I would defer to the collective expertise on this board. Perhaps I should strip the CPU block entirely and check I have the jetplate installed correctly?
Finally - For those interested, the Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS is definitely the one to go for when using a bottom rad. Not only does it fit much better than a EK Coolstream 240, but the airflow is vastly better. I'm happy to report that the build quality is amazing too!
Ncase M1 New Plumbing Layout by CintaMagique, on Flickr
The GTS fits far better than the EK. The ports at the far right allow better clearance to the edge of the GPU.
Ncase M1 Radiator Profile by CintaMagique, on Flickr
The fans now side snugly inside the top of the radiator after the shroud was trimmed to fit with a dremel. I roughly traced the outline of the fans and padded the fins with some cardboard to protect them. This way there is actually better clearance to the GPU than with a slimmer radiator! The fans are a friction fit only - they're snug enough that they need to be levered out.
Ncase M1 Drain by CintaMagique, on Flickr
There is just enough space to install a drain between the two ports. This still isn't at the lowest point, but works far better than using the FrozenQ ports and tipping the case to empty the radiator.
Chapeau - With the GTS rad, were there any issues in regards to the front IO? I'm looking to do a similar bottom mount as you have done, also following the dremel use for a friction fit on the fans. Also how are temps looking with just the slim 240? reason I ask is I'm debating putting a 92mm rad on the rear but I'm not sure, as I have an HDD that needs to find a spot in here and an additional fan would help with positive pressure. Anyone have thoughts on this as well? Also, glad delidding help your temps problem
yoyo55, glad you like it
My inspiration was this build: NCASE M1 v1 Mini-ITX Build
It seems to use the same EK 240SE radiator although with the PWM version of the 15mm fans (the blue just wouldn't go here) but it also has the 92mm in the back, I assume with the fan on exhaust.
I'm pretty confident that if there was the extra space then using 'proper' static-pressure fans would probably sort things out; the CooleStreamSE is a 22 fpi radiator so the 15mm fans do struggle to get the air moving, particularly in the limited space.
The 92mm would only be 16fpi.
I'm not 100% wedded to using hard tubing but it does make some of the tighter bends have more stability - I didn't use any other fittings but there's no reason I can't switch to soft tubing with the addition of some 90 degree bends, other than the additional cost.
I /could/ redo things to get a conventional 120mm radiator and static-pressure fan in there although I'd have to get rid of that lovely bendy tube from the GPU to the radiator
It's not obvious at first glance whether there would be any difference between the SE and PE variants of the 120mm radiator?
I'd definitely need some 90 degree fittings to give me clearance around the GPU at least - I wonder if there's any issue with mixing soft tubing and hard PETG pipes in the same loop?
The 92mm radiator would certainly look better - I'd always considered adding a window although I wonder whether that would cut off too many air intakes for the lower area.
To answer your question, the rear fan is intake while the 15mm's are exhaust through the floor.
Also, some more pictures!
View attachment 446
View attachment 447
As you can see, not a whole lot of space for those poor 15mm's, maybe 8mm at most
MarkRWatts or anyone here - with the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5, does this line up with the 4 holes on the front face of the case? Or does this require the 3D printed adapter I saw a while back?
Now for everyone I'd like to talk tubing a bit. I'm torn between soft tubing and hardline for this build. Hardline looks much neater and appears less cluttery. This would be my first WC build, but I have all the equipment for hardline. Which is the most efficient way in this build from everyone viewpoint? Lastly, should I slap a 92mm rad on the back or ignore it and run just the slim in the bottom.
Thoughts recommendations welcome! Thank you all once again for all this amazing information, and thank you for the notice of this thread rfarmer!
-Val
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
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- May 9, 2014
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- 1,169
Hello everyone!
Valgaur here, yes the delidded guy from OCN, no worries on crazy content and such, here for ncase M1 stuffs
Not often I log in on [H] but once I was directed to this thread for this case, I had to post.
First of all a major thank you and shout out to rfarmer for sending me this way as I mainly domain at OCN and have used [H] a bit here and there. So thank you sir! Secondly is a thank you to everyone here, the information and recommendations here are simply amazing.
Ever since I found this case I've been sold, absolutely since day one. So much so I'm planning an entire new build and want to take my first custom water cooling setup in this case as well. I'd be moving from my monstrous Cosmos 2 to this guy. You can say I'm excited in the least. Apart from the thank you to everyone and rfarmer I have a few questions.
Chapeau - With the GTS rad, were there any issues in regards to the front IO? I'm looking to do a similar bottom mount as you have done, also following the dremel use for a friction fit on the fans. Also how are temps looking with just the slim 240? reason I ask is I'm debating putting a 92mm rad on the rear but I'm not sure, as I have an HDD that needs to find a spot in here and an additional fan would help with positive pressure. Anyone have thoughts on this as well? Also, glad delidding help your temps problem
MarkRWatts or anyone here - with the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5, does this line up with the 4 holes on the front face of the case? Or does this require the 3D printed adapter I saw a while back?
Now for everyone I'd like to talk tubing a bit. I'm torn between soft tubing and hardline for this build. Hardline looks much neater and appears less cluttery. This would be my first WC build, but I have all the equipment for hardline. Which is the most efficient way in this build from everyone viewpoint? Lastly, should I slap a 92mm rad on the back or ignore it and run just the slim in the bottom.
Thoughts recommendations welcome! Thank you all once again for all this amazing information, and thank you for the notice of this thread rfarmer!
-Val
Welcome to the thread and thanks for the shout out.
Chapeau
Gawd
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Hello everyone!
...
Chapeau - With the GTS rad, were there any issues in regards to the front IO? I'm looking to do a similar bottom mount as you have done, also following the dremel use for a friction fit on the fans. Also how are temps looking with just the slim 240? reason I ask is I'm debating putting a 92mm rad on the rear but I'm not sure, as I have an HDD that needs to find a spot in here and an additional fan would help with positive pressure. Anyone have thoughts on this as well? Also, glad delidding help your temps problem
Temps:
I'm averaging CPU 70, GPU 60 with a decent OC on both CPU and GPU under load. This is running BF4 Multiplayer on maxed out settings at 3440/1440. However, it's downright noisy when the fans are screaming along at 2000rpm.
i5 6600K @ 4.5, FE GTX 1070 @ 2126 / 9216. BF seems to be quite hard on CPU as there is a fair amount of processing for the 64 players on a map at one time.
Normal usage is silent as you'd expect.
Fit:
The fit is beautiful! But I did cut my I/O connectors down. Others have fit the same radiator without cutting here so you should be fine.
Radiator:
As for a 92mm rad - depends on what you want. I plan on doing just this later in the year to try to reduce noise under load. I'll be going with the Hardware labs 92mm rad as I have doubts the Alphacool unit will fit . (Too long - likely to interfere with the back plate on the GPU). It's not really necessary - I'm not much of a gamer so noisy under load is a minor complaint. Especially as I use headphones anyway. But I guess the whole point of WC is to satisfy our own hobby goals so I'd say do it!
Same here, I'm looking for a top-down hsk, but the C14 is almost disappeared from markets I can reach. I could get hands on a C14S for a cheap price, but still I haven't got what are the problems with that (or it's just the side bracket fan?).
EDIT: I found easier on another thread, top far would get outside the case
, so only a slim fan would fit.NH-C14S compatibility seems good for my Gaming ACK...mmm...
NT06-Pro is a bit more expensive to me than the Noctua, as I could get it only new, but if it fits better..
Quite a shame I have a H100i GTX on the shelf... but that was just orrible to fit in a 250D I can't imagine how it could be in a M1.
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vipz
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I would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.
So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard
Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).
I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.
Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.
The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.
With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.
Do the heat pipes work well in that orientation? I seem to remember that Noctua warning about it with their coolers.
Qrash
Gawd
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- Oct 9, 2014
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- 995
You are correct. The Noctua NH-C14 installation manual states:
Caution: In tower style cases, please avoid installing the NH-C14 with the bends of the heatpipes pointing upwards as this may result in reduced cooling performance.
The question is, how much is cooling performance reduced? It seems with the Dark Rock TF this orientation is the only one that is practical, so as long as the cooling is adequate it's the way to go.
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
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But for me with the 1080-FE, the C14 should more easily fit there?
Yes.
You can still fit 2 120mm fans in the side bracket if you end up not using both 140mm fans on the C14 (lower fan has to be 120mm due to PSU)
I switched my 1080 FE to a hybrid AIO because I wanted it to run cooler (was 85c under load, now 60c under load)
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
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I just ordered the Noctua C14 from Newegg. I now have a Corsair H100i V1 AIO, out of box but never used, for sale. PM me if interested, thanks.
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I measured 33-34mm. It has been a while since somebody called me "son", though
Did not find a similar warning from bequite and so far the cooler seems to do a good job.
WhackingCheese
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33mm??? What on earth? Can you double check? Cram a fan in there just to be sure? This would be amazing! Interesting.I measured 33-34mm. It has been a while since somebody called me "son", though
Did not find a similar warning from bequite and so far the cooler seems to do a good job.
I tend to call people "son" when i really want an answer
Same here, I'm looking for a top-down hsk, but the C14 is almost disappeared from markets I can reach. I could get hands on a C14S for a cheap price, but still I haven't got what are the problems with that (or it's just the side bracket fan?).
EDIT: I found easier on another thread, top far would get outside the case
NH-C14S compatibility seems good for my Gaming ACK...mmm...
NT06-Pro is a bit more expensive to me than the Noctua, as I could get it only new, but if it fits better..
Quite a shame I have a H100i GTX on the shelf... but that was just orrible to fit in a 250D I can't imagine how it could be in a M1.
NT06-Pro appears to fit fine however you'll find it will sit across over both side fan spots. I.e. if you want a fan on TOP of the NT06-Pro you won't be able to use both side fans unless perhaps slim (this is going off a side orientation of the heatpipes. with the tips facing the front of the case. I've just read this on a post on here somewhere, as the user didn't have a fan on the unit itself but had 2 side fans instead but a rather large gap (Here). It's not ideal turns out
. C14 old school was ideal as it sat perfectly with the side fans installed. Dark Rock TF is similar height wise so works well in that sense but appears to have several compatibility problems otherwise. Some may work, but I'd rather not be breaking/cutting any fins, or use a riser card.I'm keeping an eye out on used C-14's on ebay lol. I found one but it's like 200 AUD because they're asking 120 US -.- + shipping is like 40 US. zzz may as well get a friend overseas to buy it for me from NE. XD (am considering this.. lol)
EDIT:
I am curious if anyone here has installed the C14s though and used it in lower fan config? Wonder what temps are like..
Further Edit:
Uh, according to this review (Here) the Be Quiet slim beats out the U9S even with 2 fans?? I find this very... Odd and I don't necessarily believe it considering it costs half the price?! I'm very tempted just to buy it for testing sake... >.>
Also - This Website in German shows it matching closely to the U9S.. Take all these with a grain of salt as they're not the typical major review sites.
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WhackingCheese
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I've seen people use the 240mm predator in multiple builds. This guy has one.
http://m.imgur.com/gallery/wuWqz
Edit: fixed link
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
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NT06-Pro appears to fit fine however you'll find it will sit across over both side fan spots. I.e. if you want a fan on TOP of the NT06-Pro you won't be able to use both side fans unless perhaps slim (this is going off a side orientation of the heatpipes. with the tips facing the front of the case. I've just read this on a post on here somewhere, as the user didn't have a fan on the unit itself but had 2 side fans instead but a rather large gap (Here). It's not ideal turns out
I'm keeping an eye out on used C-14's on ebay lol. I found one but it's like 200 AUD because they're asking 120 US -.- + shipping is like 40 US. zzz may as well get a friend overseas to buy it for me from NE. XD (am considering this.. lol)
EDIT:
I am curious if anyone here has installed the C14s though and used it in lower fan config? Wonder what temps are like..
Just ordered my C14 at newEgg
So, if I have (within 5 days) the C14 Noctua HSF and just use one included fan on it, I could use my two Vardar or my extra Noctua fans on the side panel blowing out? Would that be a good cooling setup for the below listed rig?
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When I installed the C14, I had to use a 120mm fan for the "lower" (closer to motherboard) position due to the PSU (SFX). I mounted two 120 fans on my side bracket.
If you look back in this thread, there are some folks who set one side fan to exhaust and the other to intake - I believe both the "upper" and "lower" 120s are exhaust, and the front 120 fan on the side bracket is intake.
33mm??? What on earth? Can you double check? Cram a fan in there just to be sure? This would be amazing! Interesting.
I tend to call people "son" when i really want an answer
Sorry I measured wrong. It looks like 24mm, but that would still mean you could fit a fan in there. I would need to take the motherboard out or the heatsink off to try it. Not keen on doing that.
Hi, long time lurker, first time poster.
So I completed phase 1 of my spending:
In case you can't see the picture here's what I got so far
and here's the list for phase 2 (mid October):
Phase 3:
The goal is to run games at 1440p highest setting 60+ fps.
The fan plan is as follow: The 92 slim will be at the back for exhaust. The 2 side mounted 120mm are going to to run off the CPU fan controller with the low voltage adaptor and the Y connector both as intake. The 2 bottom mounted 120mm fans are going to be in the same config (Y connector / low voltage adaptor on one fan header), at first they might be kinda useless with the FE 1080 but will be great for the Accelero Xtreme III. I also plan on removing the two 140mm fans from the C-14. Everything should run at ~900rpm or less hopefully for maximum quiet. Will be overclocking as needed in the future.
Will be posting build log later on but for now, I welcome any comments, been reading through a good part of this thread and I see a few builds similar to my plan and I think it might be the way to go for a quiet M1.
So I completed phase 1 of my spending:
In case you can't see the picture here's what I got so far
- NCASE M1
- ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming
- Corsair SF450
- Noctua NH-C14
- 4 x Noctua NF-P12 (pwn)
- Noctua NF-A9x14 (pwn)
- Acer Predator XB271HU
- Samsung EVO 850 500gb
and here's the list for phase 2 (mid October):
- Intel I7 6700K
- Corsair 2 x 8 gb 3200MHz (I think the board can handle that, AFAIK)
- Samsung EVO 850 1tb
- GTX 1080 FE (which ever brand I think they're all the same)
Phase 3:
- Accelero xtreme III
- Custom cables
The goal is to run games at 1440p highest setting 60+ fps.
The fan plan is as follow: The 92 slim will be at the back for exhaust. The 2 side mounted 120mm are going to to run off the CPU fan controller with the low voltage adaptor and the Y connector both as intake. The 2 bottom mounted 120mm fans are going to be in the same config (Y connector / low voltage adaptor on one fan header), at first they might be kinda useless with the FE 1080 but will be great for the Accelero Xtreme III. I also plan on removing the two 140mm fans from the C-14. Everything should run at ~900rpm or less hopefully for maximum quiet. Will be overclocking as needed in the future.
Will be posting build log later on but for now, I welcome any comments, been reading through a good part of this thread and I see a few builds similar to my plan and I think it might be the way to go for a quiet M1.
WhackingCheese
n00b
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2016
- Messages
- 17
Eh, looks like 22mm actually :/, still probably enough to cram one in there. Although just to be safe i might go for a 14mm thick noctua or no fan at all. Thanks mate!
I believe most would have 2 fans mounted on the side of the case as intakes, then use the 14mm thick 92mm noctua fan as exhaust, leaving the space under the C14 free (some put 120mm fans, but i doubt this makes a huge difference personally). A lot of people on here don't even use the noctua fans that come with, as this case seems better suited around 120mm fans.
Last edited:
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
Hi, long time lurker, first time poster.
So I completed phase 1 of my spending:
In case you can't see the picture here's what I got so far
- NCASE M1
- ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming
- Corsair SF450
- Noctua NH-C14
- 4 x Noctua NF-P12 (pwn)
- Noctua NF-A9x14 (pwn)
- Acer Predator XB271HU
- Samsung EVO 850 500gb
and here's the list for phase 2 (mid October):
- Intel I7 6700K
- Corsair 2 x 8 gb 3200MHz (I think the board can handle that, AFAIK)
- Samsung EVO 850 1tb
- GTX 1080 FE (which ever brand I think they're all the same)
Phase 3:
- Accelero xtreme III
- Custom cables
The goal is to run games at 1440p highest setting 60+ fps.
The fan plan is as follow: The 92 slim will be at the back for exhaust. The 2 side mounted 120mm are going to to run off the CPU fan controller with the low voltage adaptor and the Y connector both as intake. The 2 bottom mounted 120mm fans are going to be in the same config (Y connector / low voltage adaptor on one fan header), at first they might be kinda useless with the FE 1080 but will be great for the Accelero Xtreme III. I also plan on removing the two 140mm fans from the C-14. Everything should run at ~900rpm or less hopefully for maximum quiet. Will be overclocking as needed in the future.
Will be posting build log later on but for now, I welcome any comments, been reading through a good part of this thread and I see a few builds similar to my plan and I think it might be the way to go for a quiet M1.
Looks like a nice build, look forward to seeing it completed. If you get bored with that monitor you can send it to me.
yeah there are two 140mm (circular) fans that come with the C-14, personally I don't plan on using either, might migrate them to my ATX case or keep them for potential future project.
Looks like a nice build, look forward to seeing it completed. If you get bored with that monitor you can send it to me.
That's the one component I couldn't wait to install right away, the current I7 2600 + GTX 770 (2 gb) are not enough to drive AAA titles right now at that resolution but it's great to replay some old classics (playing black mesa right now). The witcher 3 is going to look sick...
RIRed48
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2006
- Messages
- 360
Looks like a nice build, look forward to seeing it completed. If you get bored with that monitor you can send it to me.
I've had that monitor for about 4 months or so... I love it. Son and I play Battlefield 4... amazing.