24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

LAGRUNAUER said:
That is NOT GLUE! It is an special thermal grease. If you are not an experience technician specialized in CRT technology and/or do not have any practical experience working inside CRTs, I strongly recommend that you do not attempt any repairs or you may run the risk of sustaining severe injuries including electrocution.

Hope this helps...

UV!

.
Click to expand...

Thanks for you answer. I had send the unit to you, but I am from Europe and the costs for shipping would are in no relation. I have learned for myself a lot from videos about TV repairing and so on. I have only resoldered some solder joins which looked bad and cold. Nothing other. And therefore it was important to discharge the coil and the caps so that nothing bad will happen. I have secured myself carefully. Today in the Europe the TV-Shops don't have any clue about CRT's anymore. So this was for me the only solution.

You are absolutely right, that this is absolutely dangerous and I don't animate anyone to do this for themself.

So what do you use as replacement for your clients if you change the flyback? I mean in this thread there are people who have replaced their flyback like all I have read. But there was no word about this thermal grease.

I have found out now that on other TV-Sets and CRT' in general there is a red coating used for this. And in the case of other CRT's this thermal or insulating grease is for something to secure the coil from dust and dirt. Also if the weather is very humid this will guarante that there are no arcs and coronas on the aquadag (the black coating in the inside of the CRT and also on some parts of the outside of it like I have read) or the inside of the CRT exposed from the coil. Also this thermal grease it seems hold the suction cup in healthy state. So it will not get old and fragile in all the years.

Most of the informations I have got from this:

http://electronics.stackexchange.co...erneath-a-crt-anode-suction-cup-and-is-it-imp

And this informations adds to this:

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvasocfcrt.htm

So I came to this two solutions which maybe are also practical.

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Corona-Dope/dp/B00SMRE680
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Insulating-Varnish-Bottle/dp/B008OA7DDK

Or in short, theoretical, you can use "silicon grease" or in german "Silikonfett" for this, maybe! Should work against the same problems.

The stock thermal grease from sony under the suction cup is dirty now, because there was a lot of dust and black powder all around. I dont think it would be good to simply readd the suction cup dirty to this, on some areas dirty, dusty grease again. Or is this no problem?

Hope this will help someone in future with the same problem. And only for a word of warning, the coil holds about 30.000 volts. So this is nothing to play with, like vito said.

A little correction also: I have resoldered the G-board and D-board, not the A-board.

Maybe the black powder like carbon is something what speaks for arcing anywhere since a while? It was not much, but it was anywhere in the case of the monitor and on the boards. But no burned contacts or something like this.

By the way: I don't know someone was aware of this, but this thread is 10 years old since shortly!
First post was from @mathesas at 09-13-2005, 07:16 PM. :) :D
 
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Chris2000 said:
Thanks for you answer. I had send the unit to you, but I am from Europe and the costs for shipping would are in no relation. I have learned for myself a lot from videos about TV repairing and so on. I have only resoldered some solder joins which looked bad and cold. Nothing other. And therefore it was important to discharge the coil and the caps so that nothing bad will happen. I have secured myself carefully. Today in the Europe the TV-Shops don't have any clue about CRT's anymore. So this was for me the only solution.

You are absolutely right, that this is absolutely dangerous and I don't animate anyone to do this for themself.

So what do you use as replacement for your clients if you change the flyback? I mean in this thread there are people who have replaced their flyback like all I have read. But there was no word about this thermal grease.

I have found out now that on other TV-Sets and CRT' in general there is a red coating used for this. And in the case of other CRT's this thermal or insulating grease is for something to secure the coil from dust and dirt. Also if the weather is very humid this will guarante that there are no arcs and coronas on the aquadag (the black coating in the inside of the CRT and also on some parts of the outside of it like I have read) or the inside of the CRT exposed from the coil. Also this thermal grease it seems hold the suction cup in healthy state. So it will not get old and fragile in all the years.

Most of the informations I have got from this:

http://electronics.stackexchange.co...erneath-a-crt-anode-suction-cup-and-is-it-imp

And this informations adds to this:

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvasocfcrt.htm

So I came to this two solutions which maybe are also practical.

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Corona-Dope/dp/B00SMRE680
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Insulating-Varnish-Bottle/dp/B008OA7DDK

Or in short, theoretical, you can use "silicon grease" or in german "Silikonfett" for this, maybe! Should work against the same problems.

The stock thermal grease from sony under the suction cup is dirty now, because there was a lot of dust and black powder all around. I dont think it would be good to simply readd the suction cup dirty to this, on some areas dirty, dusty grease again. Or is this no problem?

Hope this will help someone in future with the same problem. And only for a word of warning, the coil holds about 30.000 volts. So this is nothing to play with, like vito said.

A little correction also: I have resoldered the G-board and D-board, not the A-board.

Maybe the black powder like carbon is something what speaks for arcing anywhere since a while? It was not much, but it was anywhere in the case of the monitor and on the boards. But no burned contacts or something like this.

By the way: I don't know someone was aware of this, but this thread is 10 years old since shortly!
First post was from @mathesas at 09-13-2005, 07:16 PM. :) :D
Click to expand...


Now days, many CRT repair shops use Krytox Thermal Grease.

UV!
 
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LAGRUNAUER said:
Now days, many CRT repair shops use Krytox Thermal Grease.

UV!
Click to expand...

Thanks for this tip! Will search for it distributed within Germany. Otherwise, what do you think about the other listed solutions?

For now I have reused the little dirty grease from sony which was on it before. It is running well, like before. I will test now if the failure is "repaired". Also I have tighten the screws on the transistors which are cooled with big aluminum blocks on the D-Board.Some were loose and had nearly no contact, maybe they were to hot because of this also. Will test now if the horizontal collapsing and the flickering is away now. No arcing or something in near of the anode or suction cup. Seems that reusing the existing grease is also ok. We will see.

EDIT: Two and a half hours and no horizontal collapsing of the picture and no flickering anymore until now! :)
Also the green color shift of the blacks if the monitor starts cold is not existing anymore. Before the picture allways had a green tint. Now the blacks are only grey, but only because it's cold in this state. I don't know if there was another cold solder join, but it seems so. I will report later further.

EDIT2: Next day, it's running well.
 
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Chris2000 said:
EDIT: Two and a half hours and no horizontal collapsing of the picture and no flickering anymore until now! :)
Also the green color shift of the blacks if the monitor starts cold is not existing anymore. Before the picture allways had a green tint. Now the blacks are only grey, but only because it's cold in this state. I don't know if there was another cold solder join, but it seems so. I will report later further.

EDIT2: Next day, it's running well.
Click to expand...

Fantastic! Really encouraging and inspiring to see users being able to literally repair their own units like this!
 
spacediver said:
Fantastic! Really encouraging and inspiring to see users being able to literally repair their own units like this!
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks. But I have to say that repairing is nothing new for me. I am used to such things. Not to CRT repair but to other things. I know some weak spots. Also from Notebooks/Laptops, BGA chip resoldering/reballing. Also this makes maybe only sense to do, if you see some difference in failure if gently touch/slap the CRT from the sides, or from the top. Or if you the problem only is there if the unit has change in temperature. Like warmup. If there are problems only in cold state, than it is likely, that some caps are leaking and need the be replaced. They sometimes working better if they are under some temperature.

But cold solder joins are not allways only there if gently touching/slapping the case of the CRT change something. But I think it's a sign for it. If some part would be faulty, than physical energy from the outside would not change anything. It's only my opinion, maybe it's bullshit, but better than nothing.

I am doing some investigation at the moment of the problem and some things in general. And it seems heat is the most bad for the FW900 or CRT in general, or better for the flyback. I am looking to build a cooler construction for my FW900. Two 80mm noiseblocker (or other low noise brand) fans between aluminum cage and plastick, if all goes right without the need to damage the cage or something other. Maybe I can connect them to the 5v standby voltage or something. They mostly tun at 12v. Also temperature controlled resistors in the inner of the cage could controll the fans, so that maximum of life time for the components is given. But it's only an idea. But also if it is looking like a joke, if long life fans were cheaper in the past most CRT's have had such fans. I have read something about this in the past. Hitachi was the only manufacturer which has used fans in their CRT's.

But I have seen now what heat can do to our FW900. I can only imagine what happens if someone is running their FW900 all the time our of specs. So I have respect now from something like this. I had my FW900 on some place where the heat could not ventilated that much. Maybe that has accelerated the problem until the point where the cracks were such big, that the result was a collapse of the picture. If someone thinks he or she has the same problems:

Please do search for handling the coil, suction cup, flyback. Search for the right way to dicharge it. Have respect for the voltages inside some caps and to be sure let the unit stay without power and without the powercable one or two days!

By the Way: Someone here who would be interested to create a Wiki for FW900 and the trinitron line from Sony? Should in no way replace this thread, but maybe it would be a nice addition to to collect all the knowledge from here. Also things like proper windas versions, graphics for calibrating the CRT, driver collection. Service Manual and all such things. It's also only an idea. :)

EDIT: Maybe the explanation for the fix of the green tinted blacks if the monitor was cold. I have two solder joins resoldered at the A-Board, a board on the neck of the picture tube. They seemed also not healthy to me and they were simply to resolder without the need to take out the board. Maybe therefore the green tinted black is away now. I dont know.
 
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Chris2000 said:
Yes, thanks. But I have to say that repairing is nothing new for me. I am used to such things. Not to CRT repair but to other things. I know some weak spots. Also from Notebooks/Laptops, BGA chip resoldering/reballing. Also this makes maybe only sense to do, if you see some difference in failure if gently touch/slap the CRT from the sides, or from the top. Or if you the problem only is there if the unit has change in temperature. Like warmup. If there are problems only in cold state, than it is likely, that some caps are leaking and need the be replaced. They sometimes working better if they are under some temperature.

But cold solder joins are not allways only there if gently touching/slapping the case of the CRT change something. But I think it's a sign for it. If some part would be faulty, than physical energy from the outside would not change anything. It's only my opinion, maybe it's bullshit, but better than nothing.

I am doing some investigation at the moment of the problem and some things in general. And it seems heat is the most bad for the FW900 or CRT in general, or better for the flyback. I am looking to build a cooler construction for my FW900. Two 80mm noiseblocker (or other low noise brand) fans between aluminum cage and plastick, if all goes right without the need to damage the cage or something other. Maybe I can connect them to the 5v standby voltage or something. They mostly tun at 12v. Also temperature controlled resistors in the inner of the cage could controll the fans, so that maximum of life time for the components is given. But it's only an idea. But also if it is looking like a joke, if long life fans were cheaper in the past most CRT's have had such fans. I have read something about this in the past. Hitachi was the only manufacturer which has used fans in their CRT's.

But I have seen now what heat can do to our FW900. I can only imagine what happens if someone is running their FW900 all the time our of specs. So I have respect now from something like this. I had my FW900 on some place where the heat could not ventilated that much. Maybe that has accelerated the problem until the point where the cracks were such big, that the result was a collapse of the picture. If someone thinks he or she has the same problems:

Please do search for handling the coil, suction cup, flyback. Search for the right way to dicharge it. Have respect for the voltages inside some caps and to be sure let the unit stay without power and without the powercable one or two days!

By the Way: Someone here who would be interested to create a Wiki for FW900 and the trinitron line from Sony? Should in no way replace this thread, but maybe it would be a nice addition to to collect all the knowledge from here. Also things like proper windas versions, graphics for calibrating the CRT, driver collection. Service Manual and all such things. It's also only an idea. :)

EDIT: Maybe the explanation for the fix of the green tinted blacks if the monitor was cold. I have two solder joins resoldered at the A-Board, a board on the neck of the picture tube. They seemed also not healthy to me and they were simply to resolder without the need to take out the board. Maybe therefore the green tinted black is away now. I dont know.
Click to expand...

a) Which cold solder joints did you re-soldered on the A-Board?
b) Is the green tinted black is completely out after the procedure?
c) If you know how to follow schematics, which components were re-soldered?

I have a pretty good idea of which components may have been re-soldered but I would like to hear it from Chris...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
a) Which cold solder joints did you re-soldered on the A-Board?
b) Is the green tinted black is completely out after the procedure?
c) If you know how to follow schematics, which components were re-soldered?

I have a pretty good idea of which components may have been re-soldered but I would like to hear it from Chris...

UV!
Click to expand...

a) To be honest, I don't know for sure anymore. It was coming to my mind only because I searched for an explanation for the green tint which is absent (I think) now. It was something what come to my mind to do between adding the case back to the monitor and I though: "It can't do any bad more to resolder some connections which looked "rusty". I was more concentrated to get my monitor working again and I am so happy that this is the case again.

b) Hm, if you want to hear my opinion? I would say YES. But I can't be sure, without instruments to test it. Maybe a little, little bit green could be in the grey. But not in such way, that you can see the black and would say: "this is a green tinted black!". I have never done any WPB, so maybe the rest will go away after this.

c) Like I said, this was a real luck (maybe), I dont have inspected any schematics. In laptop repair mostly you will also don't get any. What Sony offer here is really, really nice. I have simply looked for "rusty" solder joins or some where I thinked they are important. It was only for me. I have not really though that this will help with the failure, to be honest. Therefore I dont really know for (mostly) sure (And I can't really see it anymore and also my monitor is on now). But I have looked for the diagrams/schematics on the service manual for the A-Board. And I can most surely say that I have re-soldered the following components (or simply solder joins of this):

1) Q406
2) Q410
3) Some GND joins + "G2 solder join", in the near of the Q410 transistor.

and on the other hand side of the A-Board:

1) Q401 (I dont know for sure, but I have conentrated me on transistors in general)
2) Something what I have now seen seems an IC406

But not all solder joins here, only some, which were in "bad state" for my opinion. Some were maybe not, but I wanted to be sure. I had nothing to lose, right?

I have now realized, that the A-Board is for the RGB-Output and Video-Amp. So it seems there is a connection. Something what I have forgotten to say and maybe it's important here, is that I have made a color restore from the OSD after the first warmup. I have done this because I though maybe the result with now (maybe) more proper voltages will be better or "right". I can't say if the green tinted blacks existed before this color restore, but I can surely say, that the green tinted blacks at cold state were allways there before opening and re-soldering the monitor. I have done color restore often in the past and nothing has changed in this context before.

Also I have to admit, that I have never said this was a profesional repair in any way. I am only so happy, that my monitor picture is not collapsing anymore, not flickering anymore. Until now, it is running like before. Maybe it was simply the flyback and/or the HOT, which was in the progress of grilling/overheating, I don't know for sure, maybe never will. The away of the green tinted blacks at cold state, was only an aditional surprise to me :)

Now I am very interested what you will tell me for the explanation! Next time, I will note anything I do. But please understand, that this was a simply "try and fail" :D
 
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jbltecnicspro said:
Unkle Vito, while we're on the subject - just what does the Color Restoration function actually do?
Click to expand...

Puts a bandaid on the real problems (bad guns, voltages out of range, bad color transistors, low tube emission... etc...) That's all it does... Once the problems are out of whack, it doesn't do anything and it won't work...

My advise... Find the problems and FIX THE PROBLEMS!!!

Hope this helps...

UV!
 
I get the impression that color restore attempts to adjust voltages to compensate for drift. You know how it flashes different colors? I think that it does this and measures beam current somehow (I think the tube has a way of crudely estimating beam current, which would explain ABL and maybe a few other things), and then adjusts things like G2 based on these measurements.

edit: one way to test would be to examine the dat file before and after a color restore, and see which, if any, values have been changed.
 
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spacediver said:
I get the impression that color restore attempts to adjust voltages to compensate for drift. You know how it flashes different colors? I think that it does this and measures beam current somehow (I think the tube has a way of crudely estimating beam current, which would explain ABL and maybe a few other things), and then adjusts things like G2 based on these measurements.

edit: one way to test would be to examine the dat file before and after a color restore, and see which, if any, values have been changed.
Click to expand...

It does not fix problems... It puts a temporary bandaid to some of them.... Like I said, when the parameters are out of whack due to problems (I stated a few of them) It won't work... If it did, then repair outfits will not exist...

UV!
 
I never said it fixed problems, but rather that it compensates for drift (drift is a normal phenomenon that is expected to occur in all CRTs).

Of course, a proper WPB is a much more accurate way to do this compensation.
 
spacediver said:
I get the impression that color restore attempts to adjust voltages to compensate for drift. You know how it flashes different colors? I think that it does this and measures beam current somehow (I think the tube has a way of crudely estimating beam current, which would explain ABL and maybe a few other things), and then adjusts things like G2 based on these measurements.

edit: one way to test would be to examine the dat file before and after a color restore, and see which, if any, values have been changed.
Click to expand...

Interesting! But I have read somewhere in the past that the color restauration did not change anything which was readble within WinDAS.
Question is if the dat file is a FULL dump of the EPROM.
 
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Well, it almost certainly adjusts the G2 Voltage, and there is a value in the DAT file that represents G2.
 
Because I am now very sensibel to all what is getting on inside my FW900, I noticed today a silent "cracking" which is only noticable if you go with your ear near to the cases top. It is there in unrelulary intervalls and sometimes short time repeated. If the CRT is heating up more it will be there more often. So my question: Arcing? Or simply because something is "working" because of the heat (expanding of the boards for example because of the heat)? I can't hear from where it comes without open the case, but It seems that it is coming from the center of the reflection coils.I can't say if it was there before I re-soldered the solder joins, but I never searched for something like this anyway.

Would it be possible, that some insulation of the reflection coils is damaged because of the horizontal collapses before which is now not occuring anymore? I have read about this about the insulation of the coil within the flybacks. Can anyone here also hear this crackling sound?

EDIT: I have read also that if the picture is collapsing (smaller) there is TOO MUCH VOLTAGE. Can someone confirm this? So maybe this much voltage has damaged the insulation of the deflection yoke windings?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have also tested the temperature with a digital temperature probe. And it shows 47 Celsius. Maybe too hot? I have read also that the operating temperature for some flybacks are 50 Celsius maximum. The monitor has enough room for cooling and the top of the case is free. Maybe someone can probe his temperature also. I have tested this tempeature (which is the hottest point above the top of the case) on the front left hand side 5. row and from the left hand side the 6. hole here. Only within the plastick hole. Don't go any deeper please, for safety reasons. I have waited nearly a hour so that the CRT was fully warmed up. Would be interesting if this temperatures are normal.
 
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Chris2000 said:
Because I am now very sensibel to all what is getting on inside my FW900, I noticed today a silent "cracking" which is only noticable if you go with your ear near to the cases top. It is there in unrelulary intervalls and sometimes short time repeated. If the CRT is heating up more it will be there more often. So my question: Arcing? Or simply because something is "working" because of the heat (expanding of the boards for example because of the heat)? I can't hear from where it comes without open the case, but It seems that it is coming from the center of the reflection coils.I can't say if it was there before I re-soldered the solder joins, but I never searched for something like this anyway.

Would it be possible, that some insulation of the reflection coils is damaged because of the horizontal collapses before which is now not occuring anymore? I have read about this about the insulation of the coil within the flybacks. Can anyone here also hear this crackling sound?

EDIT: I have read also that if the picture is collapsing (smaller) there is TOO MUCH VOLTAGE. Can someone confirm this? So maybe this much voltage has damaged the insulation of the deflection yoke?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have also tested the temperature with a digital temperature probe. And it shows 47 Celsius. Maybe too hot? I have read also that the operating temperature for some flybacks are 50 Celsius maximum. The monitor has enough room for cooling and the top of the case is free. Maybe someone can probe his temperature also. I have tested this tempeature (which is the hottest point above the top of the case) on the front left hand side 5. row and from the left hand side the 6. hole here. Only within the plastick hole. Don't go any deeper please, for safety reasons. I have waited nearly a hour so that the CRT was fully warmed up. Would be interesting if this temperatures are normal.
Click to expand...

On a unit that is working properly, nothing like what you are describing happens...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
On a unit that is working properly, nothing like what you are describing happens...

UV!
Click to expand...

Ok. So you think it is indeed arcing anywhere, right?
What do you think about my "deflection coil arcing because of a damage (insulation) because of too much voltage before" theory vito?
Have you seen/repaired this before in your office/lab?
 
Chris2000 said:
Ok. So you think it is indeed arcing anywhere, right?
What do you think about my "deflection coil arcing because of a damage (insulation) because of too much voltage before" theory vito?
Have you seen/repaired this before in your office/lab?
Click to expand...

I will have to fully test and diagnose your unit and find out what's wrong with it before I can give you definite answers.

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
I will have to fully test and diagnose your unit and find out what's wrong with it before I can give you definite answers.

UV!
Click to expand...

Okay, seems to be the only honest/true answer. It is so sad that the repair-shops here don't are reliable. Problem is really that I can't sent you the unit, the shipping costs (To you and back to me) would are in no relation, what is understandable because I am from Germany and the heavy weight of the CRT. But you stock all parts for it is that right vito? Flybacks and so on?

And would be nice if someone could also probe the temperature on the described location and write the temperature down here. I mean my unit had allways a high temperature I think.

Also there is the serial number written with a pencil on the bezel, the focus pots were not glued anymore and seems more and more to me that this unit was in service somewhere many years ago because of some problem. There is no option for me as only investigate the problem for myself and write down all down here, even if all is working fine at the moment, there are maybe hidden problems, which were there maybe as I bought the unit years ago.
 
I have now also got a temp reading from someone via PN. He has 45 Celsius, which is nearly the same if you add different quality of probes and room temperature.
The maximum of my temperature was 50 Celsius, but regulary nearly 47 Celsius. So if you also got nearly the same temperatures this seems to be quiet normal.
 
Not sure what kind of audio recording equipment would be needed, but might be cool to record this sound you hear.
 
spacediver said:
Not sure what kind of audio recording equipment would be needed, but might be cool to record this sound you hear.
Click to expand...

I will test this if I have found a solution which works but it will change the sound leve to more highter I think.
If you hear two minutes with your ear on the cooling slots with the warmed up CRT, there should be at least one or two times of this sound. It's not loud.

EDIT: Like vito said, someone has also send me a PN with the notice that he is hearing nothing except the normal operating sound. No crackling. So seems like arcing anywhere.
I will try to locate the sound or maybe look for arcing in a dark room if I have the time for it.
Also I noticed a fat layer of dust on the deflection yoke windings last time I had the monitor open, which I cleaned not fully because it was difficult to get off. Maybe it is conductiv.
 
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Chris2000 said:
Okay, seems to be the only honest/true answer. It is so sad that the repair-shops here don't are reliable. Problem is really that I can't sent you the unit, the shipping costs (To you and back to me) would are in no relation, what is understandable because I am from Germany and the heavy weight of the CRT. But you stock all parts for it is that right vito? Flybacks and so on?

And would be nice if someone could also probe the temperature on the described location and write the temperature down here. I mean my unit had allways a high temperature I think.

Also there is the serial number written with a pencil on the bezel, the focus pots were not glued anymore and seems more and more to me that this unit was in service somewhere many years ago because of some problem. There is no option for me as only investigate the problem for myself and write down all down here, even if all is working fine at the moment, there are maybe hidden problems, which were there maybe as I bought the unit years ago.
Click to expand...

Yes... We have parts for the GDM-FW900 including FBT, power supplies and others. Just let me know what you need via PM.

Hope this helps...

UV!
 
My fw900 Always crackles for a while if I turn it off..

I suppose thats arcing too then? Is this bad?
 
atwix said:
My fw900 Always crackles for a while if I turn it off..

I suppose thats arcing too then? Is this bad?
Click to expand...

I have read this before here in the thread. Search for it if you have time.
I think if it is OFF, then it should be really because of cooling down.

I will myself take a look of it and report then.
 
So I'm selling my fw900. Its in the ebay section. Price fully negotiable.

Nothing wrong with the monitor,I just have to pay for Apt. and am having to prioritize things.

Don't wanna take too much in this thread, but I don't think one post is a big deal.
 
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Hi,

This past week I got my hands on two of these bad boys. I remember hearing about them from somewhere, and when I saw them listed locally on craigslist, I couldn't let them pass by. At first I was surprised by their size, the pictures didn't show the complete monitor, it was bigger than what i thought it was going to be. Luckily I was able to haul both the monitors in my car.

At first I will admit that I was a bit underwhelmed since the display looked like it was set on high brightness. Once I set it back down to 6500k the monitor looked good. But I started reading this place and I must admit I'm a little bit overwhelmed.

I been reading some of the guides here but I'm not sure where to start. Theres the calibration guide and the WinDas guide. I ordered the MonacoOptix XR from ebay and it should be getting here on Tuesday. The guide seems clear and I will be attempting it on Tuesday. But for the calibration guide i am unsure about what to do. Do I wait for the monaco to get here or can i just calibrate by eye? What's the best option? So far I have used the calibration tool in windows 10.
 
Wait for the monaco to get there, make sure you have WinDAS installed, and get your hands on the USB-TTL cable. Once you have all that, this is all you need to follow, as far as color calibration is concerned.

If you need help setting up WinDAS, and/or finding the right USB-TTL cable, let us know :)
 
oh, and don't forget to do a color restore using the OSD (on screen display). You have to wait until tube is warmed up - takes about 25-30 min. That should improve the image for now, until you go through the whole WinDAS WPB procedure.

And congratulations on the purchases!
 
All - I have some SUPER exciting news!!!

I have just successfully restored my 36-inch Trinitron using my Beltron 8080A CRT restorer/tester! No - this is not a joke nor a placebo. Details to come in the following days. I'm very, very happy.

Anyone considering rejuving a CRT can safely consider the Beltron 8080A to be a good candidate even for fragile tubes like the Sony's. :D
 
Thanks, I I don't think the cable should be hard to find. I just did a quick search and it seems like there aren't any selling locally but I will go check goodwill and the used pc store tomorrow. Hopefully I can find one locally or else I will have to wait longer for the cable to get here.
 
real cheap from china, but take a while to get here.

What city do you live in? I have a few spare and it should be dirt cheap to ship one.
 
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jbltecnicspro said:
All - I have some SUPER exciting news!!!

I have just successfully restored my 36-inch Trinitron using my Beltron 8080A CRT restorer/tester! No - this is not a joke nor a placebo. Details to come in the following days. I'm very, very happy.

Anyone considering rejuving a CRT can safely consider the Beltron 8080A to be a good candidate even for fragile tubes like the Sony's. :D
Click to expand...

The Beltron is a decent restorer but the Sencore CR7000 is much better...

UV!
 
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