Hydrex VS PT Nuke VS Silver Coil

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Kardonxt

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I'm just getting ready to put my WC lap back together and wanted to see what you guys use the most.

I have heard great things about PT Nuke but frozencpu is out and Petras shipping takes a few more days to get to me.

Hydrex is sort of a classic seems like it has been around forever. Not sure if it has held up against the test of time.

Lastly I have heard a small silver coil works great from preventing algae from growing but I'm a bit concerned about corrosion in my loop.

The loop consists of A copper heatkiller 3.0, MCP 655, and Swiftech MCR-320 Res. I would assume because of the price the cheap rad uses brass tubing and not copper? Would that cause any corrosion?

Ideally I would like to coil some silver up and stick it an a tube and never buy additives again.

Thoughts?

Also if I hit the rad with a light spray paint to touch it up is that going to hinder performance much?
 
Apparently Killcoils work good as does PT Nuke. I ordered PT Nuke for the setup I am building today.

I have not heard of Hydrex. Must be from before I got into this :)
 
Go to a coin shop and get the cheapest pre-1963 silver dime they have and drop it in your res. Lot cheaper.

Naw, shoot the paint at an angle, NOT straight at the fins like the air goes through, come at it from the side so only the top edge of the fins gets hit and the paint does not go down inside. 2 light sprays better than 1 heavy what will run down into the fins.

You put a shotglass of anthing with glycol (which + water is what all that stuff is basically) nothing will grow or live. Car antifreeze works fine too. its really not a big deal unless you start mixing stuff and then you might get some weird reaction that causes gunk. The silver wont react with much of anything so you can do both the dime and something else if you want.
 
Definitely agree with Bill about how to spray the radiator. That is the best way to do it

I don't particularly like Glycol, and I'm pretty sure PT nuke isn't glycol at all. It is Benzelkonium Chloride which you can probably get in some other form. it's pretty common as a disinfectant and microbiological growth inhibitor. I'd say just go with the silver in some form or another and add a dab of PT Nuke if you can get your hands on it. Theres not gonna be a damn thing living it your loop :D
 
Distilled water and the kill coil (or Billparish's silver coin) would work as well as anything else.
I have been using Distilled water and a drop of iodine for a couple of years. I am on the same $1 bottle of iodine.
 
Uberbob102000 said:
Definitely agree with Bill about how to spray the radiator. That is the best way to do it

I don't particularly like Glycol, and I'm pretty sure PT nuke isn't glycol at all. It is Benzelkonium Chloride which you can probably get in some other form. it's pretty common as a disinfectant and microbiological growth inhibitor. I'd say just go with the silver in some form or another and add a dab of PT Nuke if you can get your hands on it. Theres not gonna be a damn thing living it your loop :D
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I stand corrected and appreciate it. Its hard to keep up with it all which is what makes you guys so awesome.
 
Thanks for all the input guys

Do I need to worry about corrosion if i just go with a kill coil? Or do copper an brass not react with each other?

What I'm getting from this is a silver coil and a few drops of pt nuke is really the safe sure fire way to do it? Just wanted to avoid waiting a few days to put this together :(.

Good advice on the paint too. I would have just blasted it from the front lol.
 
All you need is 1 coil nothing else. Pure silver works way better than any of that other shit, and wont degrade over time. And it is less prone to corrosion than copper. So, 1$ grocery store distilled, and a 4$ kill coil. Should last you about 2-3 loop refills. And if you want colored, use colored tubing, and not some bs in a bottle that cost 20$ a liter. It will say UV reactive forever, wherease the crap in the bottles degrades over time.
 
BillParrish said:
Go to a coin shop and get the cheapest pre-1963 silver dime they have and drop it in your res. Lot cheaper.

Naw, shoot the paint at an angle, NOT straight at the fins like the air goes through, come at it from the side so only the top edge of the fins gets hit and the paint does not go down inside. 2 light sprays better than 1 heavy what will run down into the fins.

You put a shotglass of anthing with glycol (which + water is what all that stuff is basically) nothing will grow or live. Car antifreeze works fine too. its really not a big deal unless you start mixing stuff and then you might get some weird reaction that causes gunk. The silver wont react with much of anything so you can do both the dime and something else if you want.
Click to expand...

What if I use a coin with 40% silver?
I'm not sure if the surface of the coin is silver but I would hope so.

Currently I have no reservoire so I'm considering red Glycol that is used for cars to put into loop.
 
PT Nuke: Copper II Sulfate Pentahydrate 4.1% ; 1-2 drops per liter
PT Nuke PHN (pH-Neutral): Benzalkonium chloride 1.65% ; ~ 4 drops per liter

Silver: I'd prefer to use a high purity of silver. The kill coils or silver wires are ideal, IMO.
 
Interesting....I hadn't thought about the use of alcohol in a loop for ensuring sterility...I use silver coils in my loop but wouldnt a shot of something with a high proof work just as well....like Everclear? Guess you'd just want to make sure and get something as pure as possible so any additives don't seperate and start gunking up the line.

Or maybe just use a shotglass of pure alcohol...
 
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