Would a different rad drop temps considerably?

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Dec 13, 2004
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Right now I'm running a BIP 3x120 radiator and I'm not getting the temps I had expected. At my desired overclock the cpu is too hot under load (4ghz=upper 60's). If I simply change to a Thermochill PA 120.3 would I see a noticeable drop in temps? Is it that much better of a rad?

I will also be adding an 8800GTX into the loop soon, so the temp situation wont improve any, they'll only get higher.

I'm thinking of changing cpu blocks too, but I have a feeling the rad would make a bigger difference.
 
it all depends w/ ur block, rads and fans (either pulling air away from ur case thru ur rad or pushing air inside ur case thru ur rad), also the tubing( if ur tubes passes near a hot part in ur pc.
 
also the tubing( if ur tubes passes near a hot part in ur pc.
not really, water only stays in one spot for a few miliseconds and PVC/rubber is not a good conductor of heat.

if your switching from one 3x120mm rad to another brand 3x120mm rad you wont see much of a difference. if your going from a 2x120 to a 3x120 you certainly would. you could always add another small radiator into the loop, or get a quad 120mm :D
 
What about adding the Thermochill to the loop, instead of replacing the existing rad?

Looks like the Thermo is a low flow, high efficency rad - maybe if it were added externally?
 
What about adding the Thermochill to the loop, instead of replacing the existing rad?

Looks like the Thermo is a low flow, high efficency rad - maybe if it were added externally?

His problem isn't radiator, it's the fact that he's got such a high thermal producer of a CPU.

Consider that, at most, a CPU can output 150w of heat, an 8800 can output another 150... The BIP is rated to remove almost 475w of heat with 60cfm. About 400w at 40cfm (yate loons, I assume that's what Aurora's using).

You've still got about 100w of headroom before your system can heat up faster than it can be cooled down.

You can either do what I did, lap the bottom of your block so it's about 1/2 a mm between the bottom of the block and the bottom of the impingement holes (helps for a few degrees even after I had already lapped it perfectly flat) or get a better block.
 
Hmm, maybe I'll try a different block then. Here's the entire system for those wondering:

BIP 3x120 rad
3x Yate Loon 120mm fans usually at 7v (12v doesn't decrease temps much if any) The fans are pulling air through the rad and out of the case.
Swiftech MCP655 pump on speed 3
Danger Den 775 TDX
Danger Den 680i chipset block
t-line

EVGA 680i mobo
X6800
2gb Corsair Dominator
EVGA 6800 Ultra air cooled (for now)
4 hard drives
sound card
yada, yada

I think maybe I set my expectations too high for water cooling. Maybe I should just be happy with 3.8ghz.
 
I went from a TDX to a Fuzion on my conroe, dropped about 6c. I see load temps around 49-51 where I used to get in the 56 range.

I'm clocked at 3479mhz @ 1.304 (in windows) volts.

So, a 4.0ghz clock with more voltage might see more of a benefit.
 
yeah Fuzion blocks are good, same with the fluid xp vortex blocks (virtually the same). Offhand, I do not know what the flow is on the 655 on speed 3, but it may be less than you think it could be.
 
I'd get the 4x120 Black Ice GTX Gen II radiator. Should drop your temps. Also get some fans on it that are over 160 CFM. The raditor is dual pass. Should cool nicely.

I have a 3x120 Black Ice GTX Gen II. I am getting some pretty nice temps on the quad core. Right now its clocked at 3.6ghz (due to voltage limit on quad cores on the 680i...will be going up to 4ghz once the fix is released), and i get 37C idle, 60C at 100%. Most people on stock cooling get 60-70C idle at 3.6ghz on the quad core.
 
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