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Will I need a bigger rad?

S

synaps3

Gawd
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
957
I won this kit: http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=242&cat=65&page=1 and will be using it in my next build. I plan on getting a e6600, and using a spare 7800GT I already have. I also will be cooling the NB with this: http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=157&cat=46&page=1 and will probably not use the res, instead getting a fillport and a T-line. I noticed that the kit only has a single 120mm rad. I want to hit at least 3.5 (I'll be getting some good RAM and either a Bad Axe or a AW9D-MAX), will I run into temp problems with the default setup? If so, can you reccommend a good rad that I could upgrade to? I would like to keep this system as quiet as possible, so I am probably going to use these AC fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835186008 to blow over the rad. I already have one of those fans from a past build, I will buy more if needed. They blow TONS of air silently, so I am definently sticking with them. If you have any tips about how I should build my setup, let me know. I am a noob to watercooling, and trying to learn, so any advice is welcome :D
 
a single 120mm radiator should be ok for only the cpu and possibly the NB too, if your adding the video card to the loop you will defintely run into temp problems. you will see a large improvement if you get a bigger one though.
 
I go more for function over style with computers, so would something like a rad from an old car or motorcycle work? I hear every once and a while about someone using them, but I really know nothing about them...
 
synaps3 said:
I go more for function over style with computers, so would something like a rad from an old car or motorcycle work? I hear every once and a while about someone using them, but I really know nothing about them...
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Maybe if you clean it out and your pump is strong enough.
 
They work great I had heater core from a 83 bonville and it held 2 120mm fns perfectly. You can get ten for about about 20 bucks and paint the outside (but not the fins) and you are set.
 
im actualy using a heatercore from some truck, its quad 120mm 1/2" and i made a little plexiglass fan shroud for it. works great. just be sure theres nothing but water/coolant in it.
 
yea the D5 will handle just about everything, i got my whole case cooled, cpu, northbridge, crossfire 1900s, 5 hard drives, and the heatercore. plenty of waterflow.
 
and the 83 Bonneville core, right?
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hmm I thought the "classic" was the 2-199 9 1/2 x 6 1/8 x 2 used in 1971 - 1981 Bonnevilles w/o AC but maybe it goes till 83. /shrug

my personal fav and still going strong on my NF7-s is the big brother -the 1981 Bonneville with AC 2 1/2 thick ! ! No wimpy low speed fans for that baby :eek:


any who, the Autoparts store wont like to admit it but behind the counter somewhere they will have a catalouge and should have a picture with dimensions, be sure to look at it before ordering one.

Now the other thing, you realize that you are going to have to put barbs on the heatercore, right ? Soldering, and I mean like copper water pipe soldering is needed, not hard but you will need the propane torch, hacksaw/tubing cutter and some skill. Its not hard at all and easily learned but if you dont have a place to do it or the tools you might be better off buying a rad already ready to go.

Oh and imo properly done they cool as good as or better than anything you buy (which the high end ones are just custom sized heater cores anyway. )
 
Holy crap. Maybe I'll get a bigger rad for better temps then :D

Do I need to do anything special to the rad to get it to work? Will I need to get barbs for it or will they already be on there?

Also, if I were to go with another radiator from somewhere, would I have to check the flow amount each one has? Finally, how much should I expect to pay for one of these rads, and would it be a better deal to just go with a normal rad for a wc loop?
 
read my post right above, last bonny w/o ac I bought was $20 at autozone, add + $8 for brass barbed fittings from lowes.

here go crazy, pick large american cars before 1990 (started to use aluminum around then and you DO NOT want aluminum) and trucks too. Has pictures. http://www.radiatorexpress.com/default.asp

No worries about flow, these babys were hooked into an automobiles cooling system, ( real cars, with V8 Detroit heavy iron engines, not the toys they make today LOL) designed to have LOTS of very hot water going thur them. Actually there is some debate that you want your rad to have some flow restriction as the longer the water is in the rad the more chance it has to give up heat. The ones above are 2 pass rads water goes in the top, down to the bottom tank and then back up to the top to an outlet. You can find one pass ones that have an inlet at the top and and outlet at the bottom, water goes in top and right out the bottom, 1 pass. The 2 pass are better for most applicaions.

As in previous post, if you not a do it yourself guy with some basic tools, buy one, its worth the extra $40 to get one all ready to go. Me, I got more time than money, already have the torch and a ton of tools. One thing is that the inlet and outlet tubes on heater cores are not the same size so you have to futz with geting the right barbs. I have found that a brass 1/2 in hose barb x 3/8 male pipe (file the threads off the male pipe end, chuck it in drill press and press the file against it as it rotates) will fit right insidel the larger 5/8 hose end of the heatercore. A 1/2 in hose barb x 3/8 female pipe will go right over the 1/2 inch hose end of the heatercore.
Both parts are stocked at Lowes, take the core with you and you can see what I mean.
 
You posted yours while I was typing mine :p

$28 total is a great deal, compared to the cost of rads from other places. Not to mention they will probably perform better without the stupid paint. Thanks for the info, Bill!

I'll get a "2-199 9 1/2 x 6 1/8 x 2 used in 1971 - 1981 Bonnevilles w/o AC" this weekend :D

Edit: I looked up the rad on autozone.com and this is what came up: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...ion&Parameters=%7C~Without+A/C&PageSync=7
$238?!?? That can't be right. Am I looking in the wrong place?
 
hehe link didnt work, dont look up radiator, look up "Heater Core"

(its actually the small rad that is your cars heater, mounted in the firewall to keep the passenger compartment warm, not the big one up front in the grill)

\
 
well , crap, they dont have a 81 pontiac bonny picture on their site.

Bah have to give away one of my secrets.

these guys have a ton of the old school info still available and the info is still basiclly good in a general sort of way, I suggest you read anything that catches your eye under "watercooling" some neat projects there.

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1031/
 
Ah, okay. That would explain it. Thanks again for the help!

Is there any reason for me to use the res in the kit, or is it okay for me just to bypass it like I was planning to?
 
Your call, res has no effect on cooling but is hugely helpfull in removing air from the system on first install, and for topping off fluid. If its not a problem, use it, if it is a problem, T line is good.
 
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