Water + Heat Pipes (MOD pics)

Crosshairs said:
You said no such thing...read your 1st post again, not the one where you quoted wiki.....
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I said that the only reason to use a heatsink is to create more contact area.

Meaning more contact with whatever is supposed to be carrying the heat away, in this case air/water.

Hows that different than

heatsinks exist to provide more surface area that is in contact with the air, and thus better heat dissipation.

? I guess the wording couldve been better but its still not untrue.
 
Fujimitsu said:
I said that the only reason to use a heatsink is to create more contact area.

Meaning more contact with whatever is supposed to be carrying the heat away, in this case air/water.

Hows that different than

heatsinks exist to provide more surface area that is in contact with the air, and thus better heat dissipation.

? I guess the wording couldve been better but its still not untrue.
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We know what you mean but technically contact area expressly means the area of contact between the heatsink and whatever needs to be cooled (chip). Surface area is what you use to refer to area provided to assist in heat dissipation from whatever medium you are using (air, water, etc.)
 
Wouldn't it still work okay?

1) He improved the heatsinks contact with the NB by changing the mounting (and most probably the thermal material under it)
2) The fins heating the air would cause a convection current to flow upwards, sucking cooler air up from the bottom of the case.
3) The (slight) contact between the waterblock and the fins is still conducting some heat away.
4) The sideways radiation of heat into the waterblock would also carry some heat away.
5) By altering the heat transfer characteristics (removing the fan) of the heatpipe setup, he probably altered the (relative) coolest point of the heatpipes, thus transferring more heat somewhere else rather than at the NB heatsink (i.e. to the Vregs or SB).

Granted it's not ideal, but it's not the disaster everyone seems to be making it out to be, at least not for his NB.
 
I think it's doing just fine. Here's why:

You are increasing the surface area a tiny bit by having the fins contact the base of the waterblock.

Heat will move from an area of hot to cold, in an attempt to equalize. Therefore, I do belive that heat will be pulled from the HSF base more effectively.

Airflow is not reduced by an appreciable degree. Why? Well, the top of that heatsink (where it contacts the block) is covered anyways... blocked by the heatpipe and copper pieces bent together.

Convection is not stlfled, as air can still rise between the fins when the board is mounted horizontally.
 
Arcygenical said:
Airflow is not reduced by an appreciable degree. Why? Well, the top of that heatsink (where it contacts the block) is covered anyways... blocked by the heatpipe and copper pieces bent together.
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As opposed to using a fan, there's quite a bit less airflow.
 
Annaconda, your theory is sound and it should work just fine. The only issue is the irregular contact the top of the heatsink provides. If you fill this with a thick thermal compound like Céramique to provide better contact you get better thermal conductivity from the sink to the block.

As far as loss of air flow through the heatsink, it's a moot point, that heat sink with its restricted top would in reality need airflow coming from the cpu or PCI-e side of the sink neither of which would be happening given that the cpu is water cooled.

As long as there is good contact with the top of the fins, and the block is pulling heat from the heatsink then this setup will be better then just letting the block passively sit there.

I will agree with the point about your rads not being efficient sitting on top of your case. If you are using them passively then they should be orientated horizontally, not vertically.
 
No rads are not passive any more, i am running 6 Yaats, 3 on each on very low speed. Temperatures are great with them.
 
Ok guys here's a proof. I hope that will help alot of people.

I used the deep fry/candy thermometer to get the readings off the chipset with the water block on and off. The reason for using thermometer is because of the no temperature sensor for chipset.

I ran the computer @ 4050 mhz under stress for 30 minutes by using Prime95, then used the candy thermometer to get the reading from it.

First picture is with the block on the heat sink. After 30 minutes of Prime95 and 5 minutes of contact with the heatsink temperature of the heatsink never went above 70F. Look in the picture.

082856.jpg




Second same procedure but with out water block on. The temperature is 100F as you can see in the picture it is side shot to show you the whole picture. The temperature was keep rising so i had to shutdown computer even after just 15 minutes under stress.


087.jpg
 
A few notes:

-Meat thermometer, lol....
-One reading taken off the side of the heatsink compared with the other taken from the center?





And lastly,




-meat thermometer, lol....
 
If you put a huge line of thermal paste inbetween the block and the heatsink, that's the only way I can see this making a difference.

Otherwise, total waste.
 
If you put a penny on a stove coil and then set another penny on top of the first penny the second penny will still heat without TIM :p
 
I haven't read any of this since the first page. But... has anyone brought up the question "why not just use the waterblock? If you're going to have a waterblock doing that almost useless job, why not spend a little more and get two more blocks for the PWM and SB?
 
Dethred said:
I haven't read any of this since the first page. But... has anyone brought up the question "why not just use the waterblock? If you're going to have a waterblock doing that almost useless job, why not spend a little more and get two more blocks for the PWM and SB?
Click to expand...

Over and over yes.

You used a meat thermometer, and two totally different contact points.

Your "waterblock on" temperature reading was made with the thermometer's probe end barely in contact with the heatsink, and towards the top. It's reading basically air temp+ a little bit of heat from the top of the heatsink.

Your waterblock off temperature was taken with much better contact, and at the base of the heatsink right up against the northbridge which would allow more heat to dissipate into the thermometer.

Essentially you took a reading of the air around the top of the heatsink, and then a reading of the MUCH hotter base of the heatsink.

Also, you used a meat thermometer..... which is gonna be pretty unreliable for this sort of thing, it's large tip is gonna have more contact with air than anything else, giving you a totally wrong reading.

As proof of this, I submit your previous ambient case temperature reading of 84f.

Your saying your northbridge is 15 degrees cooler than the air around it? Granted you did take the side off, which could lower temps a bit if you have terrible airflow or something. But the water in that block will not lower the temperature of ANYTHING below ambient, a temperature of a 70f in a watercooling loop with an ambient temp of 84f is impossible. Water cannot cool something lower than it's own temperature.

Oh and also, a meat thermometer? really?

This is just another totally useless, error filed example of you having no idea what you're doing.
 
I can't believe the amount of negativity in this thread, absolutely astounding! :confused:


The OP has found a simple convenient way to drop temps, and it works. No damage to the motherboard either.

He knows it's not perfect, he knows there are a million better solutions, but the point is that this is dead simple and easy and it works!


Christ!



The only drawback I see is that you may damage the smooth surface of the block you're using, but other than that, what's the problem here? I love cheap easy solutions like this.
 
spine said:
The OP has found a simple convenient way to drop temps, and it works. No damage to the motherboard either.
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If your definition of working is that it didn't break anything, then yes it works.

But he has no idea what it's done for his temps, as shown above.

All this did was mutilate a good waterblock and probably raise his northbridge temps, no way to really know the temps though without a decent thermometer.
 
Fujimitsu said:
blah blah blah blah blah listen to me talk blah blah blah blah..I know everything blah blah blah blah
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What is your problem??
is your life mission to be an internet tough guy?
Just leave the poor guy alone and move along.

Jesus man, get a grip....
 
wow.. I actually read through this entire thing.. basically because I thought what others thought that he cut the ends off the heatpipes and ran water through them...

it's something I was thinking of doing with my evga 680i actually.. I was curious to see if it might actually work..

but this is all a trip, the comments are more entertaining than the actual project..
 
Use a decent temperature measuring device not some meat thermometer and the same contact point and see how it works compared to the fan.
The day that this works better than the fan blowing over it will be the day that hell freezes over.
 
Fans are great, but loud. If this actually works to some degree (please get a good thermometer Annaconda) it is superior to fans because of the lower noise.
 
The block is making awful contact with the heatsink and you're reducing airflow. Yet you still claim that the temperatures are lower with no evidence. A meat thermometer measuring two very different points on the heatsink is not evidence. Go get a real temperature probe and measure from the same point. Better yet, also add a trial with a quiet 80mm fan and see how that compares to the water block.

If you're going to make a hypothesis, you need to test it in an experiment. That involves data and a control - you have neither. Therefore, any conclusion you draw is meaningless.
 
Nautical said:
If you're going to make a hypothesis, you need to test it in an experiment. That involves data and a control - you have neither. Therefore, any conclusion you draw is meaningless.
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^ True

Seriously, you thought a meat thermometer would prove your point?

IF you want proof that the meat thermometer doesn't work.. just look at the temps it gave you.
 
Anyhow I wonder if I can do thise to my Striker Extreme ...

680i boards get so hot it's rediculous!

My power supply gets quite loud when everything is under load.

If I can use one waterblock to cool the entire system it'd be great! You think it'll work if I put the waterblock on the southbridge only? Since that's the flattest surface.

It'll cost too much to buy 2 blocks for the voltage regulators, 1 for the northbridge and 1 for the south. Not to mention all the tubes that'll be running around ...
 
Get a thick thermal pad and stick it in between the heatsink and waterblock then it might work a little

also get screenshots or something temps and not a meat thermometer :p
 
This is an excellent read, and it goes right along with what ive been telling people about cooling, you dont have to do it properly for it to work. A few weeks ago i conducted an experiment with airflow by adding several injen, AEM, and Toyo Tires stickers to the side of my case, to help decrease drag around the outside of the case, and increase the airflow on the inside, it dropped my temps 7c! and the stickers only cost me about 1.25 a piece! The resulting drop in temperature increased my speed by about 17mhz, pushing my already overclocked E6600 to close to world record speeds at about 2.93ghz. And heres my system that didnt cost me more then a couple hundred bucks and these guys are out there spending thousands doing it right! Its unbelievable. And in case you dont want to believe these results, i have verifyed everything by placing my 2 fingers on my left hand on the back of the case, and you can literally feel a 20cfm improvement in airflow, with no added noise.:cool:
 
Spawne32 said:
This is an excellent read, and it goes right along with what ive been telling people about cooling, you dont have to do it properly for it to work. A few weeks ago i conducted an experiment with airflow by adding several injen, AEM, and Toyo Tires stickers to the side of my case, to help decrease drag around the outside of the case, and increase the airflow on the inside, it dropped my temps 7c! and the stickers only cost me about 1.25 a piece! The resulting drop in temperature increased my speed by about 17mhz, pushing my already overclocked E6600 to close to world record speeds at about 2.93ghz. And heres my system that didnt cost me more then a couple hundred bucks and these guys are out there spending thousands doing it right! Its unbelievable. And in case you dont want to believe these results, i have verifyed everything by placing my 2 fingers on my left hand on the back of the case, and you can literally feel a 20cfm improvement in airflow, with no added noise.:cool:
Click to expand...

Woah, its sounds unbelievable, but worked for me too :eek: All hail Spawne32.
 
This the most retarded thread in the history of forums. The idea is stupid, and the responses from people saying, "great job man" and "nice idea" tells me that there has been a TON of misleading information here.

Annaconda, at first you said that this whole idea is this project was to cool the mosfets, nb, and sb with one water block. You then totally contradicted yourself when someone suggested to do the same thing with the sb. And you thought it was a good idea. So then, what is the point of this project? Why not just take the stock heatpipe solution off and cool the nb and sb individually with smaller heatsinks on the mosfets? This a yet another example of how insanely stupid this project really is.

The whole idea of fins in heatsinks is to make more surface area to dissipate heat. All you did with putting the waterblock on the tips of the fins were:
  1. Distroy the base of a beautiful waterblock
  2. Hinder airflow even more between the fins
  3. And make an absolute fool of yourself
Your tests are absolutely worthless. You claim that the temperature is the same anywhere on the heatsink, therefore your tests are valid. That is as far away from the truth as you can possibly get. The heat is going to be much greater at the base of the heatsink, where the nb is, and there is going to be less heat at the tips if the fins as heat goes into the air. Your meat thermometer is in to completely different contact points when you measured temperature. All you proved in doing that test was showing everybody how retarded you really are when it comes to thermal dynamics and computer cooling. You completely miss the point when it comes to how a waterblock works.

In addition, you show that type of person you are. And it sure is ugly. You ignore anything anybody says when it comes to helping or suggesting new ideas, ideas that actually make sense I mean, not stupid ones like the one in this thread. A number of people have tried to make you come to your senses, but you seem determined to blow them off and continue destroying perfectly good waterblocks and misinforming people of what works and doesn't.

And please, remember to have a nice day.;)
 
yellowhello said:
This the most retarded thread in the history of forums. The idea is stupid, and the responses from people saying, "great job man" and "nice idea" tells me that there has been a TON of misleading information here.

Annaconda, at first you said that this whole idea is this project was to cool the mosfets, nb, and sb with one water block. You then totally contradicted yourself when someone suggested to do the same thing with the sb. And you thought it was a good idea. So then, what is the point of this project? Why not just take the stock heatpipe solution off and cool the nb and sb individually with smaller heatsinks on the mosfets? This a yet another example of how insanely stupid this project really is.

The whole idea of fins in heatsinks is to make more surface area to dissipate heat. All you did with putting the waterblock on the tips of the fins were:
  1. Distroy the base of a beautiful waterblock
  2. Hinder airflow even more between the fins
  3. And make an absolute fool of yourself
Your tests are absolutely worthless. You claim that the temperature is the same anywhere on the heatsink, therefore your tests are valid. That is as far away from the truth as you can possibly get. The heat is going to be much greater at the base of the heatsink, where the nb is, and there is going to be less heat at the tips if the fins as heat goes into the air. Your meat thermometer is in to completely different contact points when you measured temperature. All you proved in doing that test was showing everybody how retarded you really are when it comes to thermal dynamics and computer cooling. You completely miss the point when it comes to how a waterblock works.

In addition, you show that type of person you are. And it sure is ugly. You ignore anything anybody says when it comes to helping or suggesting new ideas, ideas that actually make sense I mean, not stupid ones like the one in this thread. A number of people have tried to make you come to your senses, but you seem determined to blow them off and continue destroying perfectly good waterblocks and misinforming people of what works and doesn't.

And please, remember to have a nice day.;)
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I think you are wrong and that kind of response sets you way below the guy you are criticizing. :confused:

First of all, the concept of cooling nb sb mosfet etc with water through copper pipes is an amazingly nice idea. Asus has done a pretty interesting implementation of such idea. So the guy has the correct idea but his implementation is not ideal. But heck, all he did was screw the wb on top. It’s pretty simple; and then he tested. He reported favorable results. It’s not like he spend his life on the mod. He probably did it in 2 mins. LOL. Why go so hard on him? I’d rather have him sharing his results than you whining.

Secondly, the nb, sb etc can run extremely hot, 50+ C; putting ANYTHING on top that it’s 20 C will have favorable results regardless of the reduced surface contact. The question is how well can it cool?

Sure it won’t cool as well as a finless base BUT if the cooling is good enough for my system to remain stable, then I think it’s an idea worthy of consideration. Especially for those seeking silent systems. There are other Asus boards which have flat heatsinks and might work a bit better. Why not suggest those?

I don’t care if the testing does not yield amazing results, I’d rather have real world testing on interesting ideas than negative party feasts.

And if it doesn't work I can think of other things were it might work. Custom piped-WB anyone?
 
Gte one of those cheap probes people place in various places throughout the case, and put it in one place, touching as close to the core as possible.(You can secure it with aluminum foil or somethign I'm sure)

Run the tests with:
A.Waterblock
B.40/50mm fan, on 12, 7 and 5 volts
C.No active cooling

A video would be nice as well.
 
Fujimitsu said:
It's not my job to disprove you, it's your job to prove yourself right.
.............
I don't need to waste my money and time to prove you wrong, you've wasted yours to do it for me.
..............
Please either post some kind of evidence or just stop embarrassing yourself.
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Why do you seem to think that he has to prove anything? Its one of thousands of mods here, and far as Im concerned, one of the more interesting ones. Trashing his idea over and over is not making your E-penis any bigger.
I mean really kid, you went on other forums and made threads trashing him.

He is doing it, he is using the tools at hand to show results. If you dont like those results, then you reproduce the experiment yourself. Put up, or shut up.

Fujimitsu said:
Seriously, you thought a meat thermometer would prove your point?
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Then Fedex him a proper temp measurement device. Seems reasonable. Your after this guy like he screwed your sister.

People use what they have on them. I have a similar meat thermometer and its accurate within 4 degrees C at 500 degrees.
I thought, ah heck, I have heatpipes and a similar NB setup to his, Ill take my meat thermometer and check different spots on my NB heatsink under load. You know what? Im getting 1-2 degrees difference. He is getting 30 degrees change. With screens, pics and temps, its acceptable proof for me considering the tools he has on hand. Like I said, put up, or shut up.

Annaconda, I dont think its a great idea, not close to the most efficient, but it looks like fun and I applaud your efforts. Considering its a watercooled system to begin with, the heatpipe system wouldnt do much at all with no air moving over it...Zero airflow or dedicated water cooling line...Ill put my money on the water block doing more good then harm.

Cheers
 
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