Vapo LS which mobo / ram?

bubblethumper said:
Yikes! Monster OC

SLI Intrigues me, but it creates so much heat and watercooling becomes so much more of a hassle. I'd rather spend 1/2 the price of a second GTX to get my single card GTX working better (i.e. volt mods) and not have to worry about the heat output of two cards.

I'm also not crazy about the idea of having to sell two video cards every time the next great thing comes out. I feel sorry for all those SLI 6800GT and Ultra owners that ended up buying 7800 series cards.
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I have a 120mm panaflo blowing over them. I took out the back plate on my case in between the 2 cards to let some hot air out. The fan cools the chipset at the same time.

You need good cooling for sli that's for sure. This is working really well so far.
 
now if I lived in Ottawa, I would make some sort of duct from my window to the front of my PC case (or the front of the vapo ls) ;)

Winter would really help OCs
 
bubblethumper said:
now if I lived in Ottawa, I would make some sort of duct from my window to the front of my PC case (or the front of the vapo ls) ;)

Winter would really help OCs
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lol yeah that would be quite easy to do. I have a window in my computer room that has a shelf wide enough to hold my comp. In a couple of months we should have some -20C/-25C temperatures at night :D

I've been running prime95 for 90mins 3400mhz (14x243) with 1.55v. If this is 8 hours+ stable. I'll try for 3400mhz (13x263) @ 2-2-2-5. I think the redline can do it.
 
It takes 1.58v to make it prime stable @ 3400. 8.5 hours is good enough for me.

More volts doesn't seem to get me much. I've tried up to 1.65v.

This processor seems to have the cold bug. If I shutdown when the cpu is cold I won't be able to boot right away. I have to wait 2-3 minutes. Sometimes more.

CPU is 14x243 ram at 2-2-2-5 right now. Would be nice to have 13x262 with 2-2-2-5. Might need more than 3.5v on the mushkin redline.

3400-Prime.jpg
 
Yeah, there are some San Diegos with cold bug issues. Don't forget to max out the startup voltage. That's a separate setting from the normal cpu voltage base.

People have had the cold bug go away by selecting the highest setting for startup (1.55v I think).

My solution (when the above method didn't work) is to wire my case' restart button as the Vapochill's startup button. And then wired the motherboard power switch directly to the normal case power switch. You've gotta pay attention (obviously), but that's another method.
 
DFI Daishi said:
ugg....that does not even get into running games that are actually supported, and the crazy glitches that you sometime run into.....
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please elaborate, its not perfect, but unless you have used it and knew what you are doing then...

its not very hard to create an SLI profile and go
 
mrhemmy said:
please elaborate, its not perfect, but unless you have used it and knew what you are doing then...
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no, i have not used it. i think that you could have guessed as much, had you looked at my sig.

i have not bothered to look at it for some time, however when last i checked, there were still a number of games that had optical and performance glitches when running in an SLI config. it's been a while since i checked, though, and those issues may well have been patched by now.

i don't know how much or how little of a hassle it is to set up a custom profile to make an unsupported game run in SLI mode. i regard it as something as a problem that it is necessary, however i'll agree that the performace gain can be worth some effort to make it happen. people who don't overclock, and aren't as willing to put time and effort into tweaking their computers for optimal performance are likely to disagree with the both of us, on that topic.

all in all, i think that there are some real problems with SLI, and i think that it is a stopgap method, while they try to find a way to make a new core with significant performance improvements, and a cash grap on the parts of both nVidia, and ATI. perhaps i should have said this outright, in response to the quoted post, rather than trying to use another explanation.

now, would you care to deal with the concerns of the poster that i was quoting, regarding the added thermal load, and difficulty of plumbing a watercooled config? how about hte doubling of price, for a lesser performance gain than running a single card faster would yield?
 
Theres no problem at all with 2x7800s sli on water and moded bios (the one w/o temp. monitoring thus no cold bug @ < 37C gpu temp)....Games all so fluid and smooth :D

@btf,you got a really good 57 stepping :D

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And its easy to set up with danger den blocks,,,

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That's an awesome score man.

Having problems booting now. Shut down the system and it wouldn't come back on. cmos cleared and still no boot. The dfi lights are reading 3 on. According to the manual that's cpu. Need to put this cpu on a different mobo / ram and see if it boots.
 
Try diff pair of memory. Most likely memory... It has killed quite a few memories so far (DFI)
 
jinu117 said:
Try diff pair of memory. Most likely memory... It has killed quite a few memories so far (DFI)
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Good call. Put in my xms 3200LL and voila! Boot! I was sure it was cpu. I guess 3 lights mean ram :)

I need to rma the redline that's no biggie.
 
jinu117 said:
Try diff pair of memory. Most likely memory... It has killed quite a few memories so far (DFI)
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Yeah, tha'ts why I haven't gone the UTT route. Too scared to fry my ram
 
Well, I think your mobo is known UTT killer like mine was... don't bother putting more UTT in :p I've only burnt through about 6gb of memory on DFI NF4 so far.
 
jinu117 said:
Well, I think your mobo is known UTT killer like mine was... don't bother putting more UTT in :p I've only burnt through about 6gb of memory on DFI NF4 so far.
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and people WONDER why i don't go around saying how great DFI is......they wonder why i say that they have a lot of quality issues, glitches and bugs.......and then i think that maybe DFI has fixed those problems, if so many people are using them these days....and then i read something like this, and i think that i'm probably justified in wanting to stay the hell away from them, and advising others to do the same.
 
DFI Daishi said:
and people WONDER why i don't go around saying how great DFI is......they wonder why i say that they have a lot of quality issues, glitches and bugs.......and then i think that maybe DFI has fixed those problems, if so many people are using them these days....and then i read something like this, and i think that i'm probably justified in wanting to stay the hell away from them, and advising others to do the same.
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It's just that there are ferverent supporters for it in XS. I've been bashed to noob status, stupid, unreasonable when I burnt through my first 2 gig by people who didn't have problem. But than, as more reports came in of same problem, it subsided. Most people now can't wait till jump off the ship. I've gone through 3 DFI NF4 at the moment one is definite memory killer which I am reserving in parts bin, the other is being used in my daily rig with Crucial Ballistix 2gb set, the other rig is being used for my load testing with my single stage experiments... :p
 
So the DFI is known for frying UTT ram? I didn't know that... Should I bother using the replacement ram? Will mushkin even replace it if DFI is known for frying their ram?

What other ram works well with DFI?
 
btf said:
So the DFI is known for frying UTT ram? I didn't know that... Should I bother using the replacement ram? Will mushkin even replace it if DFI is known for frying their ram?

What other ram works well with DFI?
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mushkin TCCD based memory. don't try to pump stupid-high voltage into it, though. see how fast it will go, working up to 2.8 volts, and then tread lightly from there on in. 3.0 is probably the safe limit, good chance that will take you as fast as the memory will run anyhow.

my 4400 will hit 275 FSB, with 2.8 volts, on my friend's rig. it probably has more in it, however we didn't feel any need to go farther, since my board is holding me back anyway.
 
I wouldn't tell Mushkin about the DFI problem unless they ask. As far as how to proceed, I'm a big fan of TCCD and so I would recommend that route. Unless you don't mind possibly having to RMA your UTT sticks again.
 
Its early batch of redline4000 that have cold bug problem because mushkin programmed spd @ 2-2-2. I rmad my redline and they reprogram spd to 2-3-2 ....no problem after that...
Here is the e-mail from mushkin tech....

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centvalny said:
Its early batch of redline4000 that have cold bug problem because mushkin programmed spd @ 2-2-2. I rmad my redline and they reprogram spd to 2-3-2 ....no problem after that...
Here is the e-mail from mushkin tech....
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you know, i don't think that i will ever be anything but amazed by how good mushkin is as far as support and warrenty goes.......
 
DFI Daishi said:
you know, i don't think that i will ever be anything but amazed by how good mushkin is as far as support and warrenty goes.......
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I guess I'm the exception... I got this e-mail on Tuesday and haven't heard anything since.


Mushkin said:
We will be happy to help. You will be getting another Email w/ RMA instuctions shortly.

Unless you purchased the memory directly from Mushkin, you will need to include a copy of your invoice, receipt, or proof of purchase with your module when you send it to us.

Thanks... Mike
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centvalny said:
@btf, probly just call em and speak to Brian @ tech support.
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I figured as much, unfortuneatly I was in Miami this week and didn't have a chance. I'll call them on Monday.
 
Called em up yesterday. They just had a problem with their internal s/w.

Express service through Canada post $20 6 buisness days!!! Purolator was $44 for 2 days. $20 is enough to ship a package weighing a couple of ounces...

You'd swear Canada / USA was a continent away... At least I got spare ram. Looks like I'll be keeping it too in case this happens again.
 
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