Typical Ryzen 5 Temps

Zarathustra[H]

Zarathustra[H]

Extremely [H]
Joined
Oct 29, 2000
Messages
38,877
Hey all,

I'm doing some troubleshooting, and would like to lean on the crowd knowledge of those of you who went Ryzen early.

So, I upgraded my stepson for Christmas from his old FX8350 to a brand spanking new Ryzen 5 1600x. For cooling I used my old Corsair H110i GTX I had kicking around, with Corsairs new bracket for it making it AM4 compatible.

It is configured with two volt modded 3 pin old style Corsair LED fans pulling, and two high powered four pin Noctua Industrial PPC fans pushing, hooked up to the motherboard for fan control. At full load in Prime95 they ramp up to 1800rpm and blast the air through that thing.

Even so, we are still running at stock clocks, and Prime95 runs result in somewhat unsatisfying temperatures. They start at 55C or so for the first group of tests, then slowly creep up at stay in the mid 60's for the later tests. Then when I left it overnight, the CPU was 71C this morning.

Clocks stayed at 3.7Ghz as long as I was watching last night (a couple of hours) up until the low to mid 60C temps. My the morning they seem to ahve throttled ever so slightly at 3.64Ghz across all cores when it was sitting at 71C.

Is running a bit hot just the nature of the beast for these chips, or do I have an issue here? I read there were some temperature reporting issues with Ryzen early on, but that these have now been fixed? Is that accurate? For what it is worth, Ryzen Master, HW Monitor and Corsair Link all report the same temperature.

My next troubleshooting steps are:

- Get new paste and re-mount the cooler. I forgot to buy thermal paste for this build so I had to scrounge through my parts bin in the basement looking for stuff. Found an old tube of Arctic Silver 5, but it may have been 10 years old. Not sure if that makes a difference, but...

- AIO Faults. The pump reports that it is running at 3150rpm though, which seems healthy to me, but each model is different.

Appreciate any thoughts!



Oh, and the obligatory pics of course:

upload_2017-12-27_11-54-11.png



looks like I need to wipe that dust out of the bottom :oops:

And the specs:
- AMD Ryzen 5 1600x
- MSI B350 Tomahawk
- 16GB Mushkin DDR4-2400
- Nvidia GeForce Titan 6GB (2013 Kepler version)
- Fractal Design Define S case
- Corsair CX650M PSU
- Corsair H110i GTX AIO Cooler

What started out as a leftoverbut parts bin rig with my old FX8120 from my old server and an old spare 768Mb GTX 460 has upgraded nicely. Last year he inherited my old Titan, and this year a Mobo/CPU/ram/PSU/cooling upgrade.

Kid doesn't know how good he has it to have access to my old parts bin. His rig will never be as excruciatingly obsolete as mine was at his age when I was rocking a 286 in the beginning of the 486 era.
 
Last edited:
SticKx911 said:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ryz...j0j4&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Might have already looked into this, but if not, it was a big deal for a while. Might not be worth sweating yet.
Click to expand...

Yep, I clicked through and read a bunch of those before posting here It's tough to tell what the current state is though. And I also can't get a good sense of what kind of temps I should be getting with a good cooler. In most posts I have found with people quoting their temps for this thing, they are usung some mediocre air cooler of a brand I have never heard off.

Figured I'd bring it here for some real input :p
 
I would start by testing without the Corsair Fans they may be restricting the cooling potential of the Noctua ones, in order to push/pull work correctly, the pull fans have to be at least as good as the push in CFM/Static Pressure Ratios..

be sure BIOS is up to date, as you know initially there was an issue with Ryzen Temps for the "X" models, having an offset of 20C added to the temps, it was later fixed by motherboard manufacturers via BIOS.

test with realworld application, and see how it behave.. pump speed it's a good as it should.. so no problem there, also a bad pump/broken impeller would mean temps would skyrocket in the first seconds of stress test.

I think it's more of nature of prime95 putting unrealistic AVX Loads causing higher than expected temps. I avoid Prime95 since years ago.

a new paste will be good, I found that some tubes of my old and truly beloved Arctic Ceramique 2 after about 7 years work fine for some days then start slowly to reduce cooling potential, showing some sort of expiration.

EDIT: ninja edit, damn guys, you are fast.
 
Side note:

This Fractal Design Define S is a very sturdy and nice case with some silly flaws.

The way they have aligned the fan mounts it is very difficult to fit a dual slot radiator, as there is no space between the edge of the fans and the walls of the case, so the radiator can't be aligned.


My original plan was to put it up top blowing up and out, but I just couldn't make that work.

The current location is a conpromise which forced me to mount it between the three fan slots in the front so it would fit.
 
I load at around 57c on my 1600 at 3.8GHz with 1.25v.

Using a swiftech 140mm AIO with a EKWB block swapped in. Running 1x quiet fan. Your temps sound a bit high to me.

Is that radiator copper or alu?
 
sabrewolf732 said:
I load at around 57c on my 1600 at 3.8GHz with 1.25v.

Using a swiftech 140mm AIO with a EKWB block swapped in. Running 1x quiet fan. Your temps sound a bit high to me.

Is that radiator copper or alu?
Click to expand...

It's one of Corsairs AIO's, probably made by CoolIT, so I'm guessing Aluminum.

It's not one of those kits from real Water Cooling manufacturers that are an entry point into real custom WC.

It's what I used before I jumped into custom loops.

Still, I feel like it should be performing better than it is.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
Side note:

This Fractal Design Define S is a very sturdy and nice case with some silly flaws.

The way they have aligned the fan mounts it is very difficult to fit a dual slot radiator, as there is no space between the edge of the fans and the walls of the case, so the radiator can't be aligned.


My original plan was to put it up top blowing up and out, but I just couldn't make that work.

The current location is a conpromise which forced me to mount it between the three fan slots in the front so it would fit.
Click to expand...

seeing the added picture in the OP I can say for sure that's not a good position to mount an AIO, air and bubbles will stay in the Block/pump, restricting the water flow thus reducing cooling performance, as I said above i would dump the corsair fans and use the Noctua, but I now adding, i'll move to the top of the case to work it as exhaust, airflow should be also better inside the case without pump all the hot air directly to the overall components, and the AIO won't have to fight agaisn't the dust filter+limited intake potential of that case.

sabrewolf732 said:
In that case being that it's all aluminum 70c sounds about right.
Click to expand...

it's not my 1700X with the wraith tops at ~75C overclocked at 3.8ghz.. a 1600X with 280mm AIO shouldn't be that high.
 
Araxie said:
seeing the added picture in the OP I can say for sure that's not a good position to mount an AIO, air and bubbles will stay in the Block/pump, restricting the water flow thus reducing cooling performance, as I said above i would dump the corsair fans and use the Noctua, but I now adding, i'll move to the top of the case to work it as exhaust, airflow should be also better inside the case without pump all the hot air directly to the overall components, and the AIO won't have to fight agaisn't the dust filter+limited intake potential of that case.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the input, but I could just not make it fit up top. Exhausting up and out was my original plan but I ran into two problems.

1.) The cooler interferes with the RAM on the board if put up there

2.) The case is designed stupidly, such that if I try tin install it in the front two fan slots, the end of the radiator interferes with the front of the case (you know the black rounded edge that sticks out beyond the fans). If i try to mount it in the rear two slots, I have the same problem, it interferes with the rear of the case.

This was the only way I could make it work last night without breaking out the drill, and I wasn't feeling... ...drilly. (not that I haven't done this before)
 
Side note,

Does anyone know about when the 20C temperature fix was released?

I don't see it mentioned in the BIOS change log.

I don't think that is the problem though, as while 71C seems high, 51C seems way too low.

I'm going to try putting the latest BIOS on and see what happens.
 
I'd try araxie's suggestions and use prime95 26.6 or older to dodge the avx issues and yup get the rad higher!
 
Araxie said:
seeing the added picture in the OP I can say for sure that's not a good position to mount an AIO, air and bubbles will stay in the Block/pump, restricting the water flow thus reducing cooling performance, as I said above i would dump the corsair fans and use the Noctua, but I now adding, i'll move to the top of the case to work it as exhaust, airflow should be also better inside the case without pump all the hot air directly to the overall components, and the AIO won't have to fight agaisn't the dust filter+limited intake potential of that case.
Click to expand...

pendragon1 said:
I'd try araxie's suggestions and use prime95 26.6 or older to dodge the avx issues and yup get the rad higher!
Click to expand...

So,

I updated to the latest BIOS, and that definitely wasn't it, but worth a try.

I don't think the position of the radiator or the fans is the problem. I loaded it up again and did the "feel test"

The hot side of the radiator is plenty warm to the touch. The cold side of the radiator is cool to the touch.

So the radiator is definitely expelling all the heat it sees. (though maybe the fact that one side is hot, and th eother is cold is an indicvation of poor flow?)

I'm thinking the problem must be in the mount. Either I've lost my touch and gotten a poor mount to the CPU, or that 10 year old syringe of AS5 is the culprit.
 
easy way to see if rad position is an issue is to prop up the front of the case until the rad is higher than the block, check Temps. if its no different then I'd say it the mount/old-ass-as5, although I had a tube for than long and it seemed fine to me...
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
Appreciate the input, but I could just not make it fit up top. Exhausting up and out was my original plan but I ran into two problems.

1.) The cooler interferes with the RAM on the board if put up there

2.) The case is designed stupidly, such that if I try tin install it in the front two fan slots, the end of the radiator interferes with the front of the case (you know the black rounded edge that sticks out beyond the fans). If i try to mount it in the rear two slots, I have the same problem, it interferes with the rear of the case.

This was the only way I could make it work last night without breaking out the drill, and I wasn't feeling... ...drilly. (not that I haven't done this before)
Click to expand...

I understand that issue, I faced it couple of times with limited top clearance on certain mid tower cases, according to specs it should fit in push/exhaust configuration without clearance issues.
 
if i ever get my new case to show up so i can use my AC liquid freezer 240 on my 1600 i'll post some numbers to give you an idea on whats right or wrong with your temp readings.. numbers should be pretty close to the same as the H110. but 51C stock clocks sounds about right on the 1600. my 1600 stock with the stock cooler sits at 73C full load just to give you an idea.
 
sirmonkey1985 said:
if i ever get my new case to show up so i can use my AC liquid freezer 240 on my 1600 i'll post some numbers to give you an idea on whats right or wrong with your temp readings.. numbers should be pretty close to the same as the H110. but 51C stock clocks sounds about right on the 1600. my 1600 stock with the stock cooler sits at 73C full load just to give you an idea.
Click to expand...

You're fine pretty sure. Pretty Universal now try keep it all below 80c. Master Cooler is trying to keep everything in the 50s and 60s.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top