TRUE TDP Rating

S

shaggy77

Gawd
Joined
Jul 2, 2005
Messages
803
hi,

I sent an E mail to TR and never got an answer. Does anyone know what the TRUE is rated at when it comes to TDP? I am wondering because any numbers I found on my Big Typhoon stated it was rated for 130 watts. That was on the newer version of the BT too. After doing some calculations of my Q6600, I am pushing 135 watts out of it. This is what I think is limiting the overclock of my system. The cooler cannot keep the CPU cool. Let me know what you all think.

shaggy
 
Meh... according to what I could find.. stock watts is 105. That means mine is pushing 208.7 watts.

Edit: 105 is B3
95 is G0

So mine is really at 188 watts.

But, if you take into acount vdroop, then mine is at 171 watts. /Edit

Maybe that is why mine can't do over 3.68Ghz with my modded BT.

BTW mounting a fan below the BT and one above, will lower temps a bit.

Like this

fan
BT (top)
fan

Both extra fans should be blowing towards the top of the case.

Lapping the BT will also help lower the temps a bit.

Lapping the CPU will help even out load temps between the cores. Mine are now max 1C difference under full load and 2-3c difference at idle.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/150195-how-extensively-modify-your-thermaltake-big.html

I didn't do the extra RAM sinks thing... seemed lame to me.
 
Hi,

Yeah my BT is lapped. Also the BT is an original version not a VX. My Q6600 is a G0 core so stock watts is 95. As for the fan idea. I don't see it. It just maybe that I am tired right now. However at first glance I just can not see how an additional fan in a push pull config would work.

I am wondering if it is going to take some water cooling to make this Q6600 shine. I know not ever CPU is the same. Some get better clocks than others. The 3.6GHz mark is kinda of the consensus in where you want to get to persue`. So humm is what is on the mind.

shaggy
 
shaggy77 said:
hi,

I sent an E mail to TR and never got an answer. Does anyone know what the TRUE is rated at when it comes to TDP? I am wondering because any numbers I found on my Big Typhoon stated it was rated for 130 watts. That was on the newer version of the BT too. After doing some calculations of my Q6600, I am pushing 135 watts out of it. This is what I think is limiting the overclock of my system. The cooler cannot keep the CPU cool. Let me know what you all think.

shaggy
Click to expand...

While I see where you're coming from, I think that you are overcomplicating the situation somewhat. If you think that the issue is temperature, what are your current temperatures? There are a variety of internal factors that affect the heat produced by the CPU itself as well. Even though the specification says it produces 95 watts, that's a target and is not necessarily accurate for your particular chip. This variance can be the result of the VID voltage, the seating of the IHS, etc., etc. Also, remember that, again because not all chips are created equal, it may be that you've reached a limit for your chip. Just because someone else hit 3.6 or 3.8 on their Q6600 doesn't mean you can too, no matter what you do to achieve it.
 
shaggy77 said:
Hi,

Yeah my BT is lapped. Also the BT is an original version not a VX. My Q6600 is a G0 core so stock watts is 95. As for the fan idea. I don't see it. It just maybe that I am tired right now. However at first glance I just can not see how an additional fan in a push pull config would work.

I am wondering if it is going to take some water cooling to make this Q6600 shine. I know not ever CPU is the same. Some get better clocks than others. The 3.6GHz mark is kinda of the consensus in where you want to get to persue`. So humm is what is on the mind.

shaggy
Click to expand...

ok, I'll try for a better diagram.

__________


xtra fan pull
.......||||
cpu|>||| (stock fan) - blow towards cpu
.......||||
xtra fan push

___________
 
Hi,

cyclone3d said:
ok, I'll try for a better diagram.

__________


xtra fan pull
.......||||
cpu|>||| (stock fan) - blow towards cpu
.......||||
xtra fan push

___________
Click to expand...

Are you a comedian in real life? :D LOL

Seriously, I know how it is works. I just don't see how to attach the second fan on the bottom besides duck tape, cable ties, or silicone. :) Screws are out the questions since I don't screw nothing! lol

aethelwulf... I understand all that fun stuff. I know things vary. Right now I am getting go temps 58 58 55 55. I am looking at the cooler as a radiator in a car. You can have different radiators in a car to change the cooling abilities. Usually this affects racing cars. I across a tidbit that a WC radiator is about 150 watts of heat displacement per 120mm fan on the radiator. I look at the CPU as an evaporator and the Cooler as a condenser.

When I worked in HVAC/R, we would change out condensing and evaporating units once in awhile and replace the original units with something larger or better spec for the application. For instance a walk in box had trouble maintaining temperature. We wound up replacing the condenser and evaporating units for a slight larger one and problem was solved. CPUs are the same thing. You would want to have the proper cooling to the best possible performance. Matching what your total heat load you want to make sure a cooler would handle the heat. I wished I still did refrigeration work sometimes. I would think it would be pretty cool to run a chiller loop for a desktop processor. No need for liquid nitrogen. Just -50°F refrigerant. Now making a CPU block would be a different matter. I've seen chiller loops in computer rooms. Most of the time it was just air ducts blowing cooled air on the systems.

I could go water cooling. I am looking for the best cooling solution for the best possible overclock. If the cooler cannot handle the heat, it makes it pointless to take the clock further.

shaggy
 
shaggy77 said:
aethelwulf... I understand all that fun stuff. I know things vary. Right now I am getting go temps 58 58 55 55. I am looking at the cooler as a radiator in a car. You can have different radiators in a car to change the cooling abilities. Usually this affects racing cars. I across a tidbit that a WC radiator is about 150 watts of heat displacement per 120mm fan on the radiator. I look at the CPU as an evaporator and the Cooler as a condenser.

When I worked in HVAC/R, we would change out condensing and evaporating units once in awhile and replace the original units with something larger or better spec for the application. For instance a walk in box had trouble maintaining temperature. We wound up replacing the condenser and evaporating units for a slight larger one and problem was solved. CPUs are the same thing. You would want to have the proper cooling to the best possible performance. Matching what your total heat load you want to make sure a cooler would handle the heat. I wished I still did refrigeration work sometimes. I would think it would be pretty cool to run a chiller loop for a desktop processor. No need for liquid nitrogen. Just -50°F refrigerant. Now making a CPU block would be a different matter. I've seen chiller loops in computer rooms. Most of the time it was just air ducts blowing cooled air on the systems.

shaggy
Click to expand...

Well, if you're current temperature are all under 60C, then the cooling ability isn't what's holding you back. Even if you do put a better cooler on it, there's no guarantee that you can clock your chip any higher than where you are now. Remember that chips (and boards) have limits beyond the thermal considerations. Really, though you haven't given us a lot of information.

What's your current FSB speed and voltages?
What's your goal? (Sounds like it's 3.6Ghz)
Have you tried reaching your goal? What happened?

PS. Also note that it is against forum rules to sign your posts.
 
shaggy77 said:
Hi,



Are you a comedian in real life? :D LOL

Seriously, I know how it is works. I just don't see how to attach the second fan on the bottom besides duck tape, cable ties, or silicone. :) Screws are out the questions since I don't screw nothing! lol


shaggy
Click to expand...

I used a couple of slot covers to make brakets to mount the extra fans to. One mounts to a cross brace in my case, the other mounts to one of the slot cover screw holes.
 
cyclone3d said:
I used a couple of slot covers to make brakets to mount the extra fans to. One mounts to a cross brace in my case, the other mounts to one of the slot cover screw holes.
Click to expand...

I seriously hope this isn't too far off topic, but I use a rheostat type thing from an old multimeter to control the 2x fans I have on one of my MCR220 radiators. ;)

It works as good as the store bought fan controller I have on another MCR220 in another boxen :D

 
Hi,

Thanks for all the help. I think I will just wind up sticking with the Big Typhoon since it looks like the TRUE would not give any more performance gain when it comes to cooling. Right now I am overclocking at 3.2 GHz. From the readings I have found through net searches, getting above 3.0 on later batches of Q6600 is considered doing well. Whether or not those readings are totally factual is something else to be debated. If I wanted to go faster and the CPU cooler could not handle the heat, water cooling would be the way to go and I am not sure I would want to invest money in WC for a few more clock cycles. As for the fan set up, I got a work shop and some time. I am sure I could rig something up to add another fan on the bottom of the Big Typhoon.
 
Hi,

Just a quick update. I am seriously thinking that I have been thinking about my cooling too much. After some tinkering with my system, I am running stable and cool @ 3.33 GHz. I am using 1.29 under load giving me temps around 63, 63, 59, 59.

So what did I do wrong in my overclock? The answer is simple. I didn't F__KING read as well as I thought I did :) Everything is fine.
 
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