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ToxBox 1 day mods

KikBox

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
91
About 9 months ago I put together a system for a friend of mine. We went with an Abit Mobo, Athlon 3800, ATI video, couple of hard drives, blah blah. Anyway, now he wants to pimp that box. Very soon this system will be going to an SLI setup so in anticipation of that switch we are going to mod a new PSU for this case.

ToxBox projects are always a challenge because this computer is used every day. Basically this means that anything we do we need to be able to wrap up in a day so the system can be up and running by the end of the day. The "we" here is Joe and myself. The system belongs to Joe and I help him mod the thing. Up to this point we have completed case handle installs, blow hole installs, 120mm fan cutouts and an interior paint job.

Recap of the first mod day
We got started right at 11 and did not waste any time. We started by taking a series of pictures of all the cable hookup and pin locations. This is especially helpful when reassembling the system. I find it much easier to look through out pics rather than using the cryptic Abit manual and I knew we were going to be pressed for time at the end of the day.

As soon as we had all the pics we wanted we start stripping down the chassis. This process went quickly and we were soon down to the bare metal will the components packed safely away in a box.

The first thing we had to do was get a hole cut in the back of the chassis for our 120mm fan. We elected to cut this our instead of sticking with the intergraded grill on the box. I think it looks better and promoted better air movement. I setup my 4.5 hole saw and we use a little shot of 3 in 1 oil to lubricate the blade. My drill cut through really easily...literally 5-6 seconds of cutting.

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Once the cut was complete Joe began the prep work for painting. All the components to be painted were cleaned with denatured alcohol and then masked with tape and masking paper. Joe paints for a living so I left the painting to him and moved on to the blow hole and case handle mods. All the drive cages in this case use plastic drive mounting clips. All the clips were removed, the window was removed and the side panel masked. Joe also masked the bottom of the case.

Once all the masking was complete we shot the frame with a few light coats of white primer.

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The next step was to get the blowhole and case handles mounted. For this mod we have a mnpctech chrome blowhole kit and some machined aluminum billet handles. While Joe is working on the interior paint job I set to work on this part of the project.

I made a simple little jig with 2x4's and quick clamps to securely hole the case panel in place while I made the cuts. I taped off the area to be cut and used a 3.5" hole saw for the cut as our blow hole will be a 92mm aluminum case fan. Again a little splash of 3 in 1 oil and the cut was done. I rinsed off the metal shavings in the sink and cleaned up the burrs with my Dremel.

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The blowhole kit comes with nonstandard fan screws. In fact, all they are is bolt with alan key heads on them and as a result they do not bite into the fan frame as well. I had to bore out the holes in the fan a little bit but after that it went together really well.

A little extra time was taken with the billet handles just to make sure they were mounted straight. Installing the handles is easy; the trick is making sure your holes are nice and straight. Here you can see the finished product. This part of the project is done and we can set it aside.

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Meanwhile Joe has completed masking the chassis and begun shooting the frame. The paint we are using is Hot Rod Green enamel. It's kind of expensive stuff but the finish we get with it is worth every penny. Joe saves on paint by only shooting those areas that will show when the case is open. In this way we were able to get the whole job done with only one can.

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Joe applied 2 coats of paint and then we placed the parts in a warm dry room to let the paint cure. The temp in the room was 80 - 85 degrees thanks to a gas stove and since it is November in the Great White North, the air was VERY dry.

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After about 4 hours of curing time in a warm dry room we start reassembling the chassis. The fan mount holes were bored out and rubber grommets were installed to help keep the exhaust fan quiet. We also used a 14.5" strip of U-channel to clean up the edges of the cut.

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From here on it was just a matter of getting all the parts back in place. We install the motherboard and front bezel first so that we could clean up all the power and led wires. I braided them but them in black sleeving. We did not have time for a lot of other WM stuff but we did make a few changes that allowed us to remove one power cable from the mix and get all the hardware require for the lighting up off the bottom of the case. We really wanted the nice green to show through.

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Once everything was mounted we fired her up and got a dim pool error on the startup. A quick flip of our SATA cables and we were off and running. WM is minimal on this project but part of what we like about this look is the UV green cables, even the SATA cables have been replaced with UV green. Unfortunately we were not able to get our hands on the new OCZ memory in time for mod day but it is on order and should be installed by the end of the week.

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Joe had the idea of painting his slot covers black. I had never considered doing this before but I think it looks really cool. We pulled it off finishing at 9:20pm short handed. Now it's time to start planning for the next set of upgrades.

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Okay, I think I am all caught up...
 
Day two is almost as ambitious as our first day was. We are doing a PSU mod, custom case feet, lighting and wiring.

One of the things we are tackling today is a custom PSU. Eventually we are going to sheath all the wire but for now we are focused on painting it to fit that case theme. We start the project by taking apart the PSU...good by warranty!

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After disassembly all the parts are cleaned with denatured alcohol and then the guts and wires are masked. Normally we would use standard masking paper but today be are using a paper grocery bag. The stiffness of the paper makes is easier to work the masking down between the PSU guts and the frame. All the stickers are removed and saved. If you want you can move them to the top of the PSU since that is usually facing the top of the case.

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Once our masking is complete we sand down the exposed areas with fine grit sand paper. We rough them up just enough to help the paint adhere. After our sanding is complete we clean the parts a second time to remove any dust.

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Two light coats of primer are followed by several light coats of flat black enamel. To fit with out black and greed theme we shot the fan grills with Hot Rod green. Eventually the wire will be bound with UV green sheathing to complete the look.

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That PSU is TITZ! :)
This Mod is looking very nice.

Is there more to come?
 
I was angered to scroll down and see 3 people already said exactly what I was going to say.

Oh well, sweet paint on the psu.
 
Wow that PSU is nice, the black and green looks good together. I really think you should paint the slot covers black, it'll match a lot better..
 
Putting case feet on the ToxBox is something that we have wanted to do for a long time but finding the right thing is not always easy. Our requirements were that they needed to very stable, easy to roll, lit from the inside and unique. Right away that ruled out most of the case feet you see in the mod supply stores.

As you probably know by now we are not afraid to "roll our own" if we can't find what we are looking for on the market. When I built the BooomBox I purchased locking caster wheels from home depot. They met my functional requirements and gave me that industrial/hotrod look I wanted. The ToxBox is different. This mod has evolved slowly and each new feature we have added has been thoroughly debated prior to being implemented. Joe started down the case wheel road a long time ago and in the end he went with the Kikboxes Nacelle wheel.

What the hell is Nacelle?
Nacelle is the name give to the shroud that surrounds the engines on the space shuttle. The conical shape of these wheels reminded us of shuttle engines and thus the name. These wheels are very unique. The housing contains a large rubber ball that is capable of rolling in any direction. Not only is the design of our case wheels unique, they are also incredibly stable. When you push a case with casters it takes a certain amount of pressure to first spin the wheels the right direction before they can begin to roll. This is not the case with our Nacelle wheels. You can push it any direction with very little force lessening the risk of toppling your case.

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For this build Joe decided to go with the clear acrylic wheels. We offer the wheels in black but we are planning to mod these babies installing lights. For this project we have also purchased a UV green sleeve kit and a black Sunbeam Light Bus from xoxide.com.

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We start by mounting the wheel adapters. These wheels are incredibly easy to install. Using the holes for the existing case feet as our pilot holes we drill out the holes. We shortened the bolts on our adapters so that we could fasten them with cap nuts. The cap nuts and adapters were painted using our Hot Rod green. 4 holes, 4 bolts and we are done! The Nacelle wheel housing fits into the adapter easily. Simply push the housing into the adapter and friction holds it in place. The wheels stay in place even when you pick up the case. There is the added advantage of being able to swap out a new set of wheels any time you want. If Joe ever decides to go with the black wheels it will be easy.

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The next step is to install the lights. We have 4 high intensity green LEDs. We us a drill press to carefully drill a hole in each of the 4 wheel housings. The hole is just big enough to allow the LED to penetrate the plastic but small enough that the LED cannot get into the housing and disturb any of the wheel mechanics.

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With our holes drilled we start the wiring. We are planning to control all 4 lights with one channel on the Sunbeam so we wire these in parallel. The resistors and wire are all soldiered and sheathed with a generous length of heat shrink tube. We used more heat shrink tube than I would normally but the extra will help to protect the wires that will be exposed under the case.

With our wiring complete, we drill 4 holes on the bottom of the case. The LEDs extend through the hole and then into the wheels. The holes are positioned above the hole in the wheel housing. The LEDs will NOT be permanently attached to the wheels. We did this so that Joe could easily pop the LEDs out and remove the wheels. After drilling out the holes we inserted rubber grommets to protect the wires and give us a nice finished look on the holes.

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Now we run our LEDs through the holes and into the wheel housing. We use our UV green sleeving to dress the wires on the inside of the case. We are able to hide most of our wires along the bottom edge of the case, just below the case panel. From there it's a straight shot up to our light controller.

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Turn down the house lights and.....viola!

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The clear Nacelle wheels are textured giving us an interesting effect. If you want a really intense back-lit effect these wheels could be etched with some fine grit sandpaper. I love these wheels. We get about 3" of clearance over the table, stable rolling and a truly original look!

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Looks great, I just dont like the handles and I hate the feet :(

PSU is great!
 
The the hardware in the box is being replaced very soon so I am not interested in putting too much more work in until that project is finished. The new SLI PSU will go in along with a new ASUS A8N SLI Premium Mobo, OCZ memory and a BFG 7800 GTX. Right now we are planing to just move over the hardware and have not given much thought to overclocking...the system will certainly have the hardware for it.

I guess I should put that on my todo list. :D
 
Totalchaos said:
Drilling holes while the mobo is still in place?

That's right...live without fear! Actually it's not as ballsy as you might think...he has a new mobo that he is just waiting to install. That's the next project to tackle.
 
I just wanted to chime in quick. Firstly, thanks to everyone for the comments, and a big thanks to Kikbox, I'm very happy with the ToxBox.

Drilling holes while the mobo is still in place?
Yeah, probably not the brightest move, but I was on a time constraint...at least I had the forsight to take out the graphics card! Would've punched a hole in that for sure!

Looks great, I just dont like the handles and I hate the feet
I had a feeling that these style of feet were going to be a love 'em or hate 'em kind of thing. And that's alright.
 
$88 for 4 wheels? :eek:
I think I would've mounted them inside the case so only the rubber ball was showing through.

The green paint? :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
Looks good, I just want to know how I would stop the whole thing rolling off my desk every time the cat decides it's warm on top of the monitor and takes a short cut across my case....
 
While the colors of the case aren't my style, I had to comment about those wheels. I really like their design (along with the the others on the site) and I think with the right mounting they would be really sharp. Personally, I would have mounted them higher in the case, leaving just the ball portion hanging below the bottom - turning the case into a lowrider.

I'm amazed that you haven't run into problems with the paint. That many layers in such a short period of time, being handled and put back together again, just screams scratches, rubs, flakes.
 
Shadowspawn said:
While the colors of the case aren't my style, I had to comment about those wheels. I really like their design (along with the the others on the site) and I think with the right mounting they would be really sharp. Personally, I would have mounted them higher in the case, leaving just the ball portion hanging below the bottom - turning the case into a lowrider.

I'm amazed that you haven't run into problems with the paint. That many layers in such a short period of time, being handled and put back together again, just screams scratches, rubs, flakes.

I also thought about the idea of mounting the wheels inside the case but that would require a little more head room inside the case than what we have here. I think that given the right case it would be awesome. Perhaps a case but the upside down mobo mount. That would get the PCI cards out of the way.

Our secret on the paint was our drying room. We have a very dry room that we can close off from the rest of the shop and crank up the heat. After a few hours sitting in that room we were able to handle the case with no problem. The properties of this paint may have helped also. We are using an engine block paint that is designed to run under super high temps. Looking back on it now, the only thing I would change would be to not apply paint to the rails where the panel attaches to the chassis. Normally I leave this bare metal since you know this area is going to be prone to scratching.
 
Legion© said:
Looks good, I just want to know how I would stop the whole thing rolling off my desk every time the cat decides it's warm on top of the monitor and takes a short cut across my case....

Actually some of the wheels are available with brakes. The Cannon Ball model is available with a brake lever that allows you freeze the ball in place. This is a special order item. Don't want to crash that PC...

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Legion© said:
Looks good, I just want to know how I would stop the whole thing rolling off my desk every time the cat decides it's warm on top of the monitor and takes a short cut across my case....

That's something I'm going to be thinking about in the next couple of weeks as I get ready for a LAN party. My first thought is to put some furniture coasters under the wheels. I think that might do the trick. If not, well, maybe there'll be another worklog coming up for the ToxBox II.... :)

Personally, I would have mounted them higher in the case, leaving just the ball portion hanging below the bottom - turning the case into a lowrider.

I'm amazed that you haven't run into problems with the paint. That many layers in such a short period of time, being handled and put back together again, just screams scratches, rubs, flakes.
To do it again, I might try mounting them a bit differently. In the case, if possible, as has been pointed out. Even as they are, it might be possible to build a shroud to extend the case. This option might be kind of cool if done right. You could cut designs into it and backlight them, line the inside of the shroud with a reflective surface to help bounce the light from the LEDs that are there now around...or what ever.

As for the paint, KikBox summed it up pretty well. Even though I'm not an industrial painter, I am a painter, so I'll try expanding a bit. We let each coat tack up so that it was mostly dry to touch, that way each layer will stick to the one underneath well. It's best not to let each coat cure hard. Since we used multiple light coats, vs. one or two heavy ones, I didn't have to worry about runs, sags, drips, or curtains. The biggest reason this project could be painted in day, in addition to a nice warm room, is that the product used was a lacquer. Lacquers dry much more quickly than regular oils. Most rattle cans are lacquers, but if in doubt, read the can, it'll say.

In my haste to get the job started, I didn't think out the potential problems with the side panel rails. With all the off and on of the side panel, the paint has been rubbing off in these areas. Next time I'd mask those off and keep them clean. But, otherwise, it's held up well. You just need to remember that even if your paint is dry to the touch, it's still going to be soft for the first 24 - 48 hours, which mean you'll need to handle it with kid-gloves. Of course, it's nice if you can let your final coat cure for a full 24 hours before reassembling, but sometimes you just can't.
 
Work on the new PSU continues. We move on to sheathing wires. We invested a little money in a PSU modding kit for this and it was money well spent. Having the right tools for the job saves hassles and can also save your connectors.

We also picked up a sleeving kit, some additional head shrink tubing and some replacement Molex connectors in UV green.

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Just to be on the safe side, I recommend full photo documenting your connections before taking any connectors off. There are lots of wires here and if you are a noob and think you're are going to remember where they all go your fooling yourself. It's nice to have the photos to refer to just in case.

Start by popping the connectors off one set of wires first. Measure and cut your sections of sleeving and heat shrink and then slip them over the wires. Once you get everything in place you can work your way down the length of the wires with your heat gun to get everything nice and tight. With the sleeving on all that's left to do is re-attach your connectors.

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This is a time consuming mod but the end result is worth the effort. A sleeved wire looks so much better. The nice thing about the PSU DIY is that you can get any PSU you want and make it match your pimp project.

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That is some really excellent work. I really like the colors!
 
morpheus6d9 said:
nice work
what sleeve kit is that ?
Thanks! This is my first attempt at sleeving on my own and all in all it went pretty well. Changing out the atx connector was a bit scary...I really didn't want to get the pins in the wrong place. This actually took me a total of about 6-8 hours to do, plus about an hour to paint it black. The nice thing about this psu (an Enermax Noisetaker http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_42&products_id=66) is that the fans can be easily replaced with lighted ones, which I may do in the future.

I got the kit from X-treme geek and can be found here. It is worth mentioning that I did run out of heat shrink and had to order more. I ordered more from jab-tech.com because I could order it by the foot. Turns out that I had to order a LAN carrying bag too, (darn! :p ), because my order came to only a few dollars for the heat shrink.
 
$13 on Oxide, that's not too bad, I don't remember what I paid off hand, more than that, but that's because everyone was out of stock at the time. Anyway if your going to be taking connectors off you're going to need the right tools to do it. I used three out of the four tools in the kit throughout the sleeving process, so to me it was certainly worth the expense. The tools are solid and seem well built, so they should last a long time. The atx tool tines are thin, but that's to be expected given the small space in which the have to work.

Side note:
uv green connectors, I can't remember if this is where I got them from, but it's the same kit.
http://www.casecooler.com/suuvgrpsucok.html
 
For those that may be interested, kikboxes and mnpctech have joined forces and will be sharing shop space. You can read about it here. Just thought I'd throw in a heads up.

As for mods to the ToxBox, nothing new to report, sad to say. But...I am going to be doing some painting for the The Mod Nation, as they are calling their new space, and hoping to score some mods in trade. So, hopefully I'll have something new to put up in the near future.
 
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