Titan X Gpu temp issue

[Shadowarez]

hi all i have a Titan X in my bench for testing possible issues. it hasnt had any problems in game benchmarks but im starting to see temps of about 50c just idle on desktop iv gone ahead did a pad change tim clean temps seemed to stay the same. so i went extra mile to rule out just bad paste and gave it a liquid metal treatment. temps are not changing iv done this with a OG Titan that would hit 70c just playing a video. after the liquid metal and pad change temps dropped to 30c - 50c while gaming i couldnt even attempt a game benchmark before.

would this be a situation of the card about to die as even liquid metal isnt help it? i could try one last test and give it a aftermarket Arctic Extreme 5.

 

[RazorWind]

Are you using the stock blower type heatsink with the vapor chamber? Are you sure that the vapor chamber's mating surface is flat?

 

[Shadowarez]

yeah im using the default blowing is flat i tested to make sure it made contact prior to using liquid metal. i may just attempt the arctic extreme cooler to see if it makes a difference. i just not liking the temps was wondering if this is a slow heat death. as this was going to go into a itx build but now i dont know.

 

[mnewxcv]

Shouldn't see 20c drop by going to liquid metal from fresh Tim. I'd say there was something wrong with the mount.

 

[RazorWind]

yeah im using the default blowing is flat i tested to make sure it made contact prior to using liquid metal. i may just attempt the arctic extreme cooler to see if it makes a difference. i just not liking the temps was wondering if this is a slow heat death. as this was going to go into a itx build but now i dont know.

I'm not sure I understand your original post. You changed out the original thermal pads with new ones, and applied liquid metal to the die, but it's still running too hot? Or is it now running at 30-50C in games?

30-50C during games is quite good for a blower card. You really can't ask for better than that on air cooling.

If it's still running too hot, even with the liquid metal, I'd urge you to check the heatsink mating surface for flatness. NOT just whether you get contact, but how flat the surface actually is. Lay a straight edge across the surface from corner to corner and see if you can see light between the two. If you want to get fancy, you can measure the gap with feeler gauges. I have a vapor chamber heatsink here on my desk from GPU #2 on a GTX 690, and it's so concave that I can fit a .008" feeler gauge between them in the center. That's 0.20mm, which is freaking huge.

 

[Shadowarez]

oooh then ill have to do a far more indepth check and sorry for confusion its sitting at nearly 50 idle at desktop with fan set to 65%. it will slowly creep up from cold boot to around 50c on desktop, gaming benchmarks have it pegged at almost 70c right away. ill check the mount again i did the method of tightening the screws on the back alternating till all got even turns. this gpu also has a metal backplate with thermal pads on back.

 

[RazorWind]

oooh then ill have to do a far more indepth check and sorry for confusion its sitting at nearly 50 idle at desktop with fan set to 65%. it will slowly creep up from cold boot to around 50c on desktop, gaming benchmarks have it pegged at almost 70c right away. ill check the mount again i did the method of tightening the screws on the back alternating till all got even turns. this gpu also has a metal backplate with thermal pads on back.

It's also possible that the vapor chamber is cracked or leaking, and the working fluid (probably water) inside it has leaked out. If that's the case, the problem should go away if you install the Arctic heatsink in place of the stock one.

I wouldn't use the Arctic heatsink long term, as they don't really cool the rest of the card at all, but if it fixes your problem in a brief test, then chances are you just need a good vapor chamber from a 980 Ti or another Titan to replace your bad one.

 

[Shadowarez]

ill do a search on ebay for one odd thing is this cooler sill had its plastic wrap on like it was new in box. but ill get to testing this monday when im off work to see if temps improve.

 

[Armenius]

It's also possible that the vapor chamber is cracked or leaking, and the working fluid (probably water) inside it has leaked out. If that's the case, the problem should go away if you install the Arctic heatsink in place of the stock one.

I wouldn't use the Arctic heatsink long term, as they don't really cool the rest of the card at all, but if it fixes your problem in a brief test, then chances are you just need a good vapor chamber from a 980 Ti or another Titan to replace your bad one.

While I agree, if it's running 50C while gaming as the OP says then there is absolutely nothing wrong with the card if its still hitting max boost clock. 50C is pretty amazing with the stock blower. Doesn't sound like it's true, to be honest, as the stock blowers were designed to operate on the edge of the thermal envelope to keep noise levels down. Even setting the fan to 100% before replacing the blower on mine with a CLC it would only go down to around 70C in games.

Unless OP is talking about delta to ambient. If 50C is the absolute temperature of the GPU under stress after the liquid metal application then it is more than fine.

 

[Shadowarez]

i wish that were the case with this one but it hits 50c at desktop with 65% fan speed and liquid metal from sounds of it i ill have to try a remount or cooler change see if that makes a difference as it might be the stock cooler is not functional or has cracked/leaked if it's hitting 50c doing nothing at desktop.

 

[JSHamlet234]

i wish that were the case with this one but it hits 50c at desktop with 65% fan speed and liquid metal from sounds of it i ill have to try a remount or cooler change see if that makes a difference as it might be the stock cooler is not functional or has cracked/leaked if it's hitting 50c doing nothing at desktop.

Is it clocking down normally at the desktop? Multiple display / high refresh rate? Hardware acceleration in the web browser?

 

[pendragon1]

either the mounting pressure is getting messed up some how or the vapor chamber is faulty, i have seen that a few times. did you increase youre pad thickness? id also scrape that sealant of the metal surround, incase its causing a highpoint.
edit: JS also makes a good point. if its not clocking down correctly that would cause higher temps at idle.

 

[Denpepe]

While I agree, if it's running 50C while gaming as the OP says then there is absolutely nothing wrong with the card if its still hitting max boost clock. 50C is pretty amazing with the stock blower. Doesn't sound like it's true, to be honest, as the stock blowers were designed to operate on the edge of the thermal envelope to keep noise levels down. Even setting the fan to 100% before replacing the blower on mine with a CLC it would only go down to around 70C in games.

Unless OP is talking about delta to ambient. If 50C is the absolute temperature of the GPU under stress after the liquid metal application then it is more than fine.

The OP seems to cause confusion with the running between 30-50° but there he is talking about a different card with which he did the same thing (an OG titan, not the titan x) with good results.

 

[Armenius]

The OP seems to cause confusion with the running between 30-50° but there he is talking about a different card with which he did the same thing (an OG titan, not the titan x) with good results.

I see how that is probably the case. It's hard to follow the posts with the broken sentence structure. Punctuation goes a long way.

 

[Shadowarez]

ill attempt making sentence structures clearer as even to me that was garbled. i have used the same thickness pads as stock just better quality from thermal grizzly. ill try some remounting of the stock cooler if it doesn't change or stays high at desktop ill also check the clocks to see if it is indeed not clocking down to 2D clocks when nothing is running. then ill try the arctic cooler swap to see if it does make a difference.

 

[mnewxcv]

ill attempt making sentence structures clearer as even to me that was garbled. i have used the same thickness pads as stock just better quality from thermal grizzly. ill try some remounting of the stock cooler if it doesn't change or stays high at desktop ill also check the clocks to see if it is indeed not clocking down to 2D clocks when nothing is running. then ill try the arctic cooler swap to see if it does make a difference.

Check how much Tim transferred to the heatsink. I replaced a cooler with new Tim and pads and while the pads were the same thickness,they were more rigid and didn't compress and therefore reduced my gpu die contact to almost nothing. Just another thing to consider.