I bought the Thermalright IFX-14 and 2 Delta FFB1212EHE-F00 190 CFM fans to go on them.It will all be in monday,so what I im wondering is this.Has anyone here used this setup or know anyone that has.I would like to know what kind of temps to expect.
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Thermalright IFX-14
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BababooeyHTJ
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D
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One thing is for sure, you will not have to worry about noise, because after a few minutes you will be deaf. The HS and the fans are overkill, hell one of those fans is overkill, your not going to see a huge change in temps with them over your normal fans, once you pass about 70CFM the returns on cooling vs noise drop off the chart. Also, the IFX-14 doesn't do all that much better than the TRUE, but performs better on i7's than core2's I believe. I'm sure both of them will weight close to the two Delta fans I had on my TRUE so you might want to be careful if you ever plan on moving the rig around.
However, I can tell you this, you might as well order new fans now, you are not going to be able to live with the noise, unless the PC is in another sound proof room.
Just to give you an idea, here are what the Delta fans I had sound like, keep in mind these are a good deal quieter than the ones you are getting, by 6 dBA, which is allot, since for every 10 the perceived sound level doubles. For full effect, listen to the first few sec and then skip to about 3:30.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgHKP_mBZJg
However, I can tell you this, you might as well order new fans now, you are not going to be able to live with the noise, unless the PC is in another sound proof room.
Just to give you an idea, here are what the Delta fans I had sound like, keep in mind these are a good deal quieter than the ones you are getting, by 6 dBA, which is allot, since for every 10 the perceived sound level doubles. For full effect, listen to the first few sec and then skip to about 3:30.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgHKP_mBZJg
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sirmonkey1985
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it really depends on the processor you plan to use it on.. the IFX-14 requires a lot more heat to vaporize the liquid in the heat pipes since they are much thicker then the heat pipes on any other rifle style heatsink..
D
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It better be one hell of a controller seeing as the fans pull 2 amps each, and even undervolted, Deltas are not by any means quiet fans, if this rig is just for benching then sure, maybe the 2 or 4C you get will be worth it, but then again for the price of the HS, the fans (30 something bucks a pop), the controller etc you could have bought a WCed set up which would perform better at a 10th of the noise level.
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This man is correct. But watercooling is not for everyone.
BababooeyHTJ
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From what I hear those fans undervolt very well and the noise while undervolted isn't bad at all.
I would have gone with a TRUE over the IFX, personally. A lapped pressure modded True performs better than a lapped pressure modded IFX.
I would have gone with a TRUE over the IFX, personally. A lapped pressure modded True performs better than a lapped pressure modded IFX.
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A true copper and 1 fan is prolly cheaper than that IFX+3 fans and costs the same amount.
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Real watercoolers never fear of any leaks.
But your hsf and fans are indeed overkill. You already pass the line where any higher performance fans wouldn't make any significance difference.
Seeing how you are new here you will probably won't listen to anyone here till you realize you should have.
But hey... we all make mistakes. Reason why we all posted here.
D
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lmao what? TRUE is cheaper yet they cost the same amount?
What he is saying is that the IFX and the two fans he got cost the same, as the fans run 30+ bucks each, plus the 70 for the IFX, however, at 100 bucks the TRUE copper is also a waste of money. Much better spent (if you are 100% set on not going water) on a lapped TRUE with push/pull S-Flex or Gentle Typhoon fans.
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indeed. My 1283 with dual medium yates performs as good as the TRUE I had with dual s-flex's. All that extra noise for ridiculous cfm fans is wasteful.
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And holy shit on the 190cfm fans! WtF? They gotta sound like a spooled turbo with no filter. No thank you.
undertheradar
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The IFX-14 is the best cooler made for the i7's. It isnt included in alot of comparisons because it was introduced as a LGA775... but Im pretty sure there is yet to be an i7 cooler to beat it.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/core-i7-coolers-roundup_21.html
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/core-i7-coolers-roundup_19.html
I have the TRUE and the IFX... the IFX easily outperforms the TRUE by a few degrees for me.
Ha Ha Ha.I still have my wc stuff and when my board gets here tuesday.
Im gonna start taking my pd805 apart and im gonna silicone the out side of the chip and around the bracket and let it dry.
The next day I am gonna take apart the block and silicone the top half of the block down over the chip and let dry.
Then im gonna let stright water run over the top of the chip and see where that leads me.
I will keep everyone informed
Im gonna start taking my pd805 apart and im gonna silicone the out side of the chip and around the bracket and let it dry.
The next day I am gonna take apart the block and silicone the top half of the block down over the chip and let dry.
Then im gonna let stright water run over the top of the chip and see where that leads me.
I will keep everyone informed
sirmonkey1985
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yeah i can see it being the TRUE on the i7 especially due to the heat output of the i7 and the heat output required for those huge heatpipes on the IFX..
BababooeyHTJ
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Are the both lapped and pressure modded? There are alot of coolers that can outperform an unmodded True.
You mean you're just going to cover the board with silicone, put the top half of the waterblock on the CPU, and pour water over it to keep it cool? That isn't going to work.
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lmao what? TRUE is cheaper yet they cost the same amount?
Yeah 6pm was pretty late for me; forgive the inconsistency please.
undertheradar
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It could work
... for a bit at least and not that well. It wont match the additional cooling area and 'texture' (to prevent boundary layers) of a water block... although offering such a direct and rapid means of heat removal would be nice... for the areas that aren't at the parimeter and covered by silicone. Sooner or later, even though the silicone will stick at first, it will seperate from the chip and start to leak... or the heat-spreadding metal plate will corrode and then its lights out.undertheradar
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I believe both are stock, but I would believe that their similar base construction would mean proportional benefits to both units when modded... or even more of a benefit to the IFX since there have been many reports of their bases being uneven, blemished, etc. Modding an IFX into a perfectly flat, smooth surface could result in it gaining even more from the process.
I will be taking mine into the materials lab soon to do run it over some grinding and polishing wheels (600-1000-1800-2500-3000 grit). Im not very motivated, as I have a huge external water cooling tower with a heatkiller 3.0 block on there... but that means the IFX is just sitting around now too. Im not totally sure about this 'pressure mod', but I might look into that as well and see what it can do. The one weakness of the IFX that I see is the mounting mechanism. The heatsink is very heavy, and the mounting mechanism is made up of 3 parts, rather than just one, so I have seen tests where some of this cooler's performance lag in the past was from it having an uneven contact with the chip surface (the the thermal paste is all pushed to the top as the sink puts more pressure on the bottom than the top). I have improved on the base mounting mechanism because of this, but the best thing I would suggest (more pressure might damage the board for some) is to use a case that places the mobo flat/horizontal so the heatsink has its weight applied evenly. Other than that... always heat up your paste in boiling water before applying it so you can spread it thinner. This alone has improved my heat levels by a large amount, esp with thicker compounds like IC diamond and that shit-tzu stuff.
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The heatspreader is plated copper and will not corrode.
undertheradar
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plated with what?
Nickel, probably.
D
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undertheradar
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Thats not going to be very corrosion resistant in water... unless its some stainless alloy, which even still... the only stainless that is 100% safe is surgical stainless. Even a copper nickel alloy wont work that well... good in air against the occasional fingers and such, but in water with metals floating around... good luck. Based on how easy it is to tarnish the finish on those heat spreaders, I dont think they are that strong. Also, any of more resistant alloys like stainless will be poor thermal conductors (for the most part, the more insulated it is from corrosion, the worse it is for conduction), and I doubt they would coat the surface with Ti, SiO2, or diamond...lol.
Either way we look at it though... bad idea to do direct cooling on that thing.
Either way we look at it though... bad idea to do direct cooling on that thing.
D
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Surgical stainless is nothing special, it is only used because of its ability to hold and edge, SS can and will corrode, in truth SS corrodes faster than most other metals because of the chromium added to it, which corrodes so fast that it forms a passivation layer. And there are metals that are more noble than SS which conduct heat better, the most obvious being silver.
However, no matter what it's made of, you are right "direct" cooling is a very bad idea...
undertheradar
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In my 'other hobby', I use tools to cut (known as 'fragging') corals, and have to do by putting the tools in saltwater (and then sitting them out to dry while I work, then going back in again, etc...). Most stainless tools bite it pretty quick, but surgical stainless tools (bone cutters work great for cutting stony corals) will not rust. I would consider withstanding saltwater a pretty good test. True though... the surface of just about ANY metal corrodes... Aluminum, and even Titanium, just like chromium, but that passivation layer is the whole point because thats where it stops. The nickel/chrome/molybdenum used in stainless... also not great thermal conductors when used in this way... why I doubt they are used here.
D
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Sorry, but no, SS can corrode, because it does not corrode in saltwater does not mean it wont, it is not the only test of corrosion. SS can and will "rust", but not in the normal red oxide layers, if it does it's most often do to surface contamination and often requires acid to remove and restore the chrome oxide passivation layer of the SS. SS will corrode in high acidic and salty (for low grade SS) environments and pretty easy in high chloride environments. The reason this happens is that SS corrodes faster than say mild steel, just like aluminum, but also like aluminum the oxide layer that forms "seals" the steel from further oxidation. Which is why SS must contain more than 10% chromium as it is the element that reacts with oxygen to form the passivation layer. And if this layer is broken (by say contamination) or removed (by say acid) corrosion will ensue. However the cause has to be persistent, as once the acid or contaminant has been removed, the oxide layer will return.
I love haters. I am going to silicone the board tonight, I will upload the pics later.
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how do you intend to keep water out of the expansion slots or ram slots or any of that? You can't cover the whole board with silicon and expect it to not overheat.
Alright, good luck with that. I'm sure it'll work fantastically well
.mastrdrver
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Need pics asap!
BababooeyHTJ
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I hear that they're great fans, despite what people were trying to say here.
Alright, good luck with that. I'm sure it'll work fantastically well
What the hell is he planning to do? I really just don't understand.
Trust me the base on the True and my HR-03 for that matter is no better but most reviews that I have seen show the True performing better than the IFX or about the same when fully modded. I say that since there are cheaper coolers that perform as well as either the stock, unmodded True or IFX.
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From what I got, he wants to cover his board in silicone and pour water over the bare CPU to cool it down.
BababooeyHTJ
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You have got to be kidding me. He is better off doing that oil cooling which is pretty ridiculous too.
I have issue with that xbitlabs test. Lets test the cooler with different fans and 3 instead of 1-2? OF COURSE you will / should get better results with more fans. Thats common sense.
That cooler is nice, and powerful, but its benefits imo come more from 3 fan instead of 1-2 fan setups.
Its not all in the heatsink, so much as its just slapping more fans into the works.
That cooler is nice, and powerful, but its benefits imo come more from 3 fan instead of 1-2 fan setups.
Its not all in the heatsink, so much as its just slapping more fans into the works.