Suggestions and comments for new build

[Rock_Lobstah]

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc
Mostly games which include BF3, Skyrim, Minecraft (lol), Diablo 3, Deus Ex, and various FPSers. A little bit of video recording on the side, but nothing major.
2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?
$1,100 - $1,200. Lower the better. It's not an absolute must, but I try to keep shipping to a minimum and I prefer to avoid rebates (bad experiences).
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.
State of Maryland.
4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.
CPU, motherboard, RAM, case, GPU, PSU, HSF, HDD, DVD/disc drive.
5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.
N/A.
6) Will you be overclocking?
Yes, this will be my first venture into overclocking.
7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?
My current monitor is a 20" standard LCD. I will upgrade to a larger screen later in the summer, something like a 24" 120hz monitor with 1920 x 1080.
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
Plan to order as soon as possible, or at least in the next couple of days.
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.
SLI, UEFI, 12" x 9.6".
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?
Windows 7 Ultimate, full license, and both 32 and 64 bit.

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Basically, this is my first build in about 7 years, so I had to do some of my own research (amazing how quickly technology moves). This will also be my first Intel and Nvidia build in 15 years and the first time I won't use an ASUS motherboard. Nothing against ASUS, their boards were steadfast for me, but eh, time to try something different. Here's what I planned out so far.

CPU/mobo - $330 ($10 MIR)
RAM - $48
GPU - $420
DVD - $18
HDD - $80
HSF - $27
Case - $70 (Shipping)
PSU - $157.50

Total - About $1,150.

It feels a little more expensive than it should be, but as long as it's below $1,200 I'm sated.

1) Is an 850 watt PSU overkill for two GTX 670s and moderate overclocking? I plan to OC my Ivy to around 4.2 - 4.4ghz and I want to leave the option for a second GTX 670 in the future.

2) I'm aware of the $40 G.Skill RAM and that RAM is RAM when it comes to gaming. That Samsung RAM is just too good looking for a newbie overclocker such as myself. I like the low profile and voltage of the Samsung sticks.

3) Are SSDs really necessary? I don't mind waiting 10 or 20 seconds longer for a BF3 map to boot. Also, they apparently have no influence on gaming performance.

Interested in what others think before I pull the trigger. Thanks for reading.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

We don't generally recommend Biostar motherboards around here, though I've had one in the past (still got it) and have had zero problems with it, even was able to reach very high overclocks with the Brisbane AMD CPU I had in it. Otherwise, that combo looks good.

RAM is fine, it's not overly over priced and the 1.35v is good.

GPU is expensive no doubt, but it's priced similar to other GPUs in it's class.

DVD is fine.

HDD is not fine when for $5 more you can have this faster HDD $79.99 - Samsung by Seagate Spinpoint F3

Thermal is not needed. The TIM included with the 212+ performs just as well as the AS5 and has zero curing time. It takes something like 200 hours for AS5 to cure. The stuff that comes with the 212+ does not. So you don't need it.

HSF is a fine choice. We recommend it around here a lot.

Case is good as well.

PSU is a bit overkill, even for SLI'd 670s. You should be fine with 750W.

 

[Rock_Lobstah]

We don't generally recommend Biostar motherboards around here, though I've had one in the past (still got it) and have had zero problems with it, even was able to reach very high overclocks with the Brisbane AMD CPU I had in it. Otherwise, that combo looks good.

Yeah, I'm not sure why BioStar is such a red-headed step-child, but their latest series of boards seem pretty good. Solid reviews and consumer feedback.

HDD is not fine when for $5 more you can have this faster HDD $79.99 - Samsung by Seagate Spinpoint F3

What makes this drive faster, though? What is Spinpoint?

PSU is a bit overkill, even for SLI'd 670s. You should be fine with 750W.

What about these PSUs?

NZXT HALE82 HALE82-850-M 850W <--- Seasonic PSU

CORSAIR Professional Series HX750

Thermal is not needed. The TIM included with the 212+ performs just as well as the AS5 and has zero curing time. It takes something like 200 hours for AS5 to cure. The stuff that comes with the 212+ does not. So you don't need it.

Really interesting. What do you mean by "curing time"?

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Basically the WD drive hasn't changed much since 2009. Only difference was they labeled it as a "6.0 GB/sec" drive when it doesn't even exceed 3.0 GB/sec speeds. The F3 is a single platter design and newer. It's faster at almost everything than the Caviar Blue drives, in fact the F3's go head to head with the Caviar Black series hard drives and in most cases, even beat it.

Due to the price of those PSUs, I'd stick with the original drive you selected. What in a PSU are you looking for? Semi modular, fully modular or doesn't matter?

Basically it needs to be power cycled on/off and stressed in order to heat then cool and heat, rinse repeat for like ~200 hours before AS5 performs at it's best. Other TIMs out do not require this, such as the TIM that's included with the 212+ which I am currently using on my i7 870 without issue. (Currently rocking out ~70*C and it's been running for a few days @ 100% folding F@H cores the entire time. (Plus the occasional game I load) max temp so far has been 75C. This is also with the GPU folding 100% 24/7 and it's a 470 GTX which is known for creating lots of heat, so the inside of the case isn't exactly cool right now. Neither is my bedroom.

 

[Dangman]

1) Is an 850 watt PSU overkill for two GTX 670s and moderate overclocking? I plan to OC my Ivy to around 4.2 - 4.4ghz and I want to leave the option for a second GTX 670 in the future.

Just a bit. You would be fine with a solid 750W PSU for that kind of setup.

2) I'm aware of the $40 G.Skill RAM and that RAM is RAM when it comes to gaming. That Samsung RAM is just too good looking for a newbie overclocker such as myself. I like the low profile and voltage of the Samsung sticks.

Fair enough.

3) Are SSDs really necessary? I don't mind waiting 10 or 20 seconds longer for a BF3 map to boot. Also, they apparently have no influence on gaming performance.

IMO, if you can afford it, get a SSD. They do make a difference in how the system in general just responds. And yes while they don't have an effect on the actual FPS of a game, they do affect the load time as you said in games. It's generally a bit longer than 10 to 20 secs depending on the game.

Yeah, I'm not sure why BioStar is such a red-headed step-child, but their latest series of boards seem pretty good. Solid reviews and consumer feedback.

Because they've always been seen as the "budget" brand. ECS has the same brand/image issue as well despite a series of really decent mobos. With that said, I have no problem recommending Biostar mobos if there are no other solid options. However, there usually are solid options from Asus, Gigabyte, and MSI around the same price as some of the mid-range to high-end Biostar mobos out there. As such, I'm going to recommend an Asus, Gigabyte, or MSI over a Biostar when that happens due to those three mobo manufacturer's track record.

In addition, just like with AsRock, Biostar generally crams so many feature into a mobo yet offers it at really low price compared to Asus, Gigabyte, and MSI. Which leads to fair concerns about the quality IMO.

However, if you want to be the guinea pig, by all means go for Biostar.

 

[crzykid71]

You very well could be just fine with a 750 watt psu & a overclocked Ivy bridge. I'd say use google and type in: psu calculator. There you should have choices in the search to find the power usage of your build for every component even fans. The 670 is still very new and might not be in a drop box to for the calculator to select. I think anandtech.com said the gtx 670 used around 317 watts @ full load. Good choice of parts you got.

 

[Rock_Lobstah]

Basically the WD drive hasn't changed much since 2009. Only difference was they labeled it as a "6.0 GB/sec" drive when it doesn't even exceed 3.0 GB/sec speeds. The F3 is a single platter design and newer. It's faster at almost everything than the Caviar Blue drives, in fact the F3's go head to head with the Caviar Black series hard drives and in most cases, even beat it.

That's a good HDD. Judging by the reviews it's pretty reliable. I swapped it for the WD drive and dropped the AS5. Thanks. Also, I believe HDDs operate at a 1.5 gb/sec maximum. The 3.0 and 6.0 gb/sec stuff is purely marketing.

Due to the price of those PSUs, I'd stick with the original drive you selected. What in a PSU are you looking for? Semi modular, fully modular or doesn't matter?

I definitely favor modular, especially with this size of a case. I think I might stick with the 850 watt Corsair. PSUs degrade over time and that Corsair Professional has a 7 year warranty. The other worthwhile 750 PSUs are similarly priced, but with weaker warranties. According to this article, they recommend a minimum of 700w for SLI'd 670s. It's just that 7 year warranty... hard to turn away.

Speaking of case sizes, I noticed the BioStar board only has 2 case fan headers. If I want to add more case fans, how exactly do I do that? Could I simply hook them up to the PSU? Someone directed this to me and I have to wonder if it's wise to overload one fan header with two 140mm fans.

Because they've always been seen as the "budget" brand. ECS has the same brand/image issue as well despite a series of really decent mobos. With that said, I have no problem recommending Biostar mobos if there are no other solid options. However, there usually are solid options from Asus, Gigabyte, and MSI around the same price as some of the mid-range to high-end Biostar mobos out there. As such, I'm going to recommend an Asus, Gigabyte, or MSI over a Biostar when that happens due to those three mobo manufacturer's track record.

However, if you want to be the guinea pig, by all means go for Biostar.

Well, somebody's gotta take one for the team.

In all honestly, though, I was eying this board before I found the newegg combo: MSI GD45. My friend keeps telling me MSI, MSI, MSI, and I can see why: they have a better UEFI and customer support. If it weren't for the $150 price and lack of combo I would get the MSI GD45.

Thanks for chiming in, guys. Most of this build was made by merely observing this forum and reading Danny Bui's posts.

 

[Deleted member 88227]

Most good fans have two connectors on them. One that you could plug into a MB header and one that'll plug directly into the 4 pin molex connector on a PSU. Only difference is the fans wont be controlled, they'll run 100% when on the 4 pin molex connector.

 

[Dangman]

That's a good HDD. Judging by the reviews it's pretty reliable. I swapped it for the WD drive and dropped the AS5. Thanks. Also, I believe HDDs operate at a 1.5 gb/sec maximum. The 3.0 and 6.0 gb/sec stuff is purely marketing.

A tad wrong here: The Samsung drive that Skillz recommended has performance equal to or exceeding SATA 1.5Gb/s. There are some SATA HDDs out now that are actually close to 180MB/s. And those are the regular 7200RPM drives, not the 10K RPM drives. With SSDs, the SATA 3.0Gb/s and SATA 6.0Gb/s really does matter since many fast SSDs these days exceed SATA 3.0Gb/s bandwidth.

In all honestly, though, I was eying this board before I found the newegg combo: MSI GD45. My friend keeps telling me MSI, MSI, MSI, and I can see why: they have a better UEFI and customer support. If it weren't for the $150 price and lack of combo I would get the MSI GD45.

Yeah I was about recommend that exact mobo but due to the reasons you listed, I didn't.

Thanks for chiming in, guys. Most of this build was made by merely observing this forum and reading Danny Bui's posts.

Glad to be of some help