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Slightly Dented Radiator

R

Riddlinkidstoner

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
4,630
I got my new rad today from someone on the forums and it was dented slightly on one of the pipes?(or whatever you call it) but it doesn't look like a hole. Doesn't look too bad so I'm not concerned about a refund or anything but I was wondering if I should seal it with waterproof glue or something just in case? I just looked like a little dimple into it, nothing too bad.

Or should I flat out solder the bastard? lol
 
Riddlinkidstoner said:
I got my new rad today from someone on the forums and it was dented slightly on one of the pipes?(or whatever you call it) but it doesn't look like a hole. Doesn't look too bad so I'm not concerned about a refund or anything but I was wondering if I should seal it with waterproof glue or something just in case? I just looked like a little dimple into it, nothing too bad.

Or should I flat out solder the bastard? lol
Click to expand...

Check for leaks first. Just fill with water or use a submersible pump and observe. If it's leaking then I'd consider the soldering/glue solutions.
 
So, assume it does have a puncture...a very small one, pin hole sized at least. Can I just seal that with some waterproof glue and be done with it?
 
stick your thumb over one inlet and blow as hard as you can into the other, If it leaks you will know it.
 
If it leaks you can solder it, but I would suggest having a radiator shop do it for you. My suggestion is if it leaks to get your moula back.
 
I will bet you are ok, if you can physically arrange it, fill a sink with water and do the same thing, maybe a piece of hose clamped to the inlet you are blowing in and the rad under water, no stream of bubbles then there is no doubt, you are good.

If there is a leak a auto rad shop is a great idea, look for the old geezer in the back and tell him you dont mind hanging around or leaving it overnight and would he (mark where the leak is with chalk or a piece of tape that can easily be removed) next time he solders something hit the hole with some solder. He might do it for free.

that tubing, if the dent is on the inlet or outlet tube is fairly thick and I have seen them dimple just a bit where the curves in the tubing is made , so it could be even be normal. Hard to tell from you description. Do the bubble thing, no bubbles quit worrying ;)
 
That's how the radiator shops test the rads by filling them with air and submerging it under water.
 
Well I submerged it in water and everything looks great! No leakage. I also took the time to clean it with some distilled vinager/water.

Another question though...where can I get fittings for 3/8" ID for my MCR220? Looking at the Swiftech website it says that there are two different kinds of fittings.

Heres a pic:

On the left are DD G1/4" 3/8" OD fittings and the right are the threads that came with the MCR220. Where can I get those in 3/8"? I can't find them at Petras/Xoxide/SVC/Sharka :(

1001270no2.jpg


Sorry for the big pic, gotta make sure you guys really see the difference :D
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/ might have them...

The reason I still use black ice radiators is because the fittings are much easier to find :eek:...

Lots of people have been having issues finding the correct fittings for swiftech MCR radiators recently...
 
Notes

1/4" NPSM threaded hubs (BSPP and G1/4 compatible) for maximum compatibility with various tubing installations.




The two main pipe thread standards are the National Pipe Thread (NPT), and the National Standard Free-Fitting Straight Mechanical Pipe Thread (NPSM). NPT is a tapered pipe thread that can make a close-fitting wet seal. NPSM is a straight pipe thread that only forms a mechanical seal and is not used for liquid applications.

BSP = British Standard Pipe, or BSPP = British Standard Parallel Pipe, or BSPF = British Standard Parallel Fixed.

This is from a water block but should apply.
Fittings compatibility note:

G ¼, or BSPP, fittings will fit, but may not seal; each must be checked prior to assuming that it will not leak just because they fit together.

Both NPSM and G ¼ (BSPP) are parallel thread and nominally the same size, the principal difference being 18 threads per inch for NPSM and 19 threads per inch for G ¼ (BSPP). Since most male end G ¼ fittings have a short thread length they can generally be engaged in the NPSM threads without difficulty.

The joint seal is effected with an o-ring which for the NPSM barb is in a groove on the waterblock top and compressed by the flange nut barb.
G ¼ fittings have the o-ring captured in a groove under the fitting nut.

G ¼ fittings will seal so long as there is a straight portion under the nut flats sufficient to bring the G ¼ fitting’s o-ring into contact with the bottom of the o-ring groove, a depth of 0.080”.








-------------- mcmaster ---------------
Straight (Parallel) Threads Compatibility
NPSM— National Pipe Straight Mechanical Female NPSM can be used with Male NPSM, Male NPT, and Male NPTF threads. Male NPSM can be used with Female NPSM and Female NPSH threads
NPSH— National Pipe Straight Hose Female NPSH can be used with the following Male threads: NPSH, NPT, NPTF, and NPSM. Male NPSH can be used with Female NPSH threads
NPSL— National Pipe Straight Locknut Female NPSL can be used with Male NPT threads
NPSC— National Pipe Straight Coupling Female NPSC can be used with Male NPT threads
BSPP— British Standard Pipe Parallel Female BSPP can be used with Male BSPP and Male BSPT threads. Male BSPP can be used with Female BSPP threads
 
unfortunatley no, probally not, here is the deal

NPT threads are tapered down the length of the fitting, (the diameter of the threaded part gets slightly less as you go towards the end of the threads) as you tighten them (into a mating NPT fitting) the threads "jam" together and create a water tight seal. NPT is the standard plumbing stuff used all over the US. Slap it together, get a big wrench and tighten the crap outa it and it wont leak, it if does, tighten it some more. This is kinda like a wood screws threads.

For various reasons (people over tightening and ripping the boss out of the rad shell probally, and NPT is not really designed to be removed and reused a lot of times, and you can force european fittings in there, see below) swiftech went with NPSM threads, These threads have no taper, they are like a machine screws, thread diameter is uniform down the whole length of the threads. This kind of thread is not normally used for liquid tight connections and a washer or O ring is needed to prevent leaks.

If you put tapered threads in a straight threaded hole and tighten, a couple of threads will engage fully and it will tighten down but it will leak. Probally even with teflon tape and if it did not it would be more luck than anything.

Per swiftech the BSP (british standard pipe aka "G" ) thread stuff will work but that is based on the same issue as above, some threads will mate up and tighten it, the difference is the BSP/G stuff has the O ring that will keep it from leaking. So that G fitting in your picture will work according to swiftech. I do not at all like this solution but an extensive search this morning yeilded only one easy to find NPS fitting.


in short an NPT will leak like a seive, you must have something with an O ring or gasket.
 
The older MCR220's have 3/8" NPT threads. Very recent versions have 1/4" NPSM threads. If you go to the Swiftech site, you can buy fittings direct for ~$1 per pair.

Go to http://www.swiftnets.com/ ==> Online Store. About half way down are the fittings.
 
The problem with many of the adaptations of local radiator manufacturers (importers) is that many of them use a bastard G thread. The difference is that the initial thread or two has been chamfered. Then when people try to utilize BSPP fittings sometimes they leak and sometimes they don't. A true BSPP threaded radiator has very little chamfer on the threads so that the enclosed o-ring can spread out over a flat surface and seal.
 
Swiftech direct is the only place I can get them? No one else sells them?

I'm still not sure what threads my radiator is.

I already ordered 3/8" NPT 3/8" Barbs from Sidewinder...should I cancel it?
 
Yhe Swiftech site said for radiators after April, 2007 will use the 1/4". So you probably have the 3/8" version.
 
Tried going to Lowes/Home Depot. Only thing I could find were 3/8" MIP (whats MIP?) brass fittings. Both places had HORRIBLE customer service, jesus christ.

I tried to ask someone in plumbing for help and they just kept walking saying "I'm busy."

Fucker.

Well, the ones from Sidewinders SHOULD work right? 3/8" NPT to 3/8".
 
Riddlinkidstoner said:
Tried going to Lowes/Home Depot. Only thing I could find were 3/8" MIP (whats MIP?) brass fittings. Both places had HORRIBLE customer service, jesus christ.

I tried to ask someone in plumbing for help and they just kept walking saying "I'm busy."

Fucker.
Click to expand...

Bwahaha

Come to my home depot. I'll get you what you need. Tthen we'll go chill back in plumbing or electrical all day, and break tiles with sledgehammers for fun... The normal summer-job afternoon for me :p
 
gah stupid abbreviations , if the silly manuf would just get together, Male Iron Pipe, it would have worked but with that jackass I am glad you didnt buy them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread

well at least you dont have my problem, due to my age I typically know more than anyone I ask help for in those places, except in the garden dept, I can barely grow grass. Weeds however apparently require no gardening knowledge at all.
 
BillParrish said:
gah stupid abbreviations , if the silly manuf would just get together, Male Iron Pipe, it would have worked but with that jackass I am glad you didnt buy them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread

well at least you dont have my problem, due to my age I typically know more than anyone I ask help for in those places, except in the garden dept, I can barely grow grass. Weeds however apparently require no gardening knowledge at all.
Click to expand...

LOL. Wait, I thought mixing metals was bad? Brass is ok? If it is I'm about to run back there lol.
 
Riddlinkidstoner said:
LOL. Wait, I thought mixing metals was bad? Brass is ok? If it is I'm about to run back there lol.
Click to expand...

Brass is generally an alloy of varying proportions of Copper and Zinc. It's galvanic corrosion potential is very similar to copper, so it'll take years before you get any corrosion issues.
 
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