nameBrandon
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I've got the ASRock board, but mine doesn't beep either.
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Silverstone SST-FT03-Mini (Mini-Itx)
- Thread starter lvyelion
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I've got the ASRock board, but mine doesn't beep either.
nameBrandon
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So far so good.. Running a lazy bios-preset OC @ 4.2 (3570k).. ambient @ 21C.. Idle has settled to around 25C, load under prime95 after about 30 minutes gets me to 56C.
I might, for once, have actually gotten a decent chip. Voltage is ~ 0.96V at idle-ish, up to about 1.07V under load. I could probably push this to 4.6GHz with a "real" OC, but I like seeing the cooler temps on my daily driver.
I hate Corsair for the ridiculously inflexible radiator hoses, but I have to hand it to them, the H80 can cool alright (and I have it on the "medium" setting to boot!).
I might, for once, have actually gotten a decent chip. Voltage is ~ 0.96V at idle-ish, up to about 1.07V under load. I could probably push this to 4.6GHz with a "real" OC, but I like seeing the cooler temps on my daily driver.
I hate Corsair for the ridiculously inflexible radiator hoses, but I have to hand it to them, the H80 can cool alright (and I have it on the "medium" setting to boot!).
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Yeah it all worked in the end! I'll post an updated gallery when I find the time.
My temps are a bit scary though. Core #3 is always 10 or more degrees cooler than cores 0 and 2
I don't really want to reseat my cooler cos it was such a pain to get the bloody thing built!
nameBrandon
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Yeah it all worked in the end! I'll post an updated gallery when I find the time.
My temps are a bit scary though. Core #3 is always 10 or more degrees cooler than cores 0 and 2
I don't really want to reseat my cooler cos it was such a pain to get the bloody thing built!
That's almost exactly how mine is.. Core #3 is ~ 10 degrees cooler than cores 1, and 2.. and core 0 is usually somewhere in between core #3 and core #1/#2.
Like right now, I'm at..
C0 22C
C1 24C
C2 27C
C3 17C
I'm pretty sure that's normal.. and regardless, I'm not concerned about. When under load, the difference between them closes a bit (core 3 ends up about 5-6C cooler than the rest).
SalemSwift
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Yea, don't reseat for that. I've never had all cores idle at the same temp on my i3-540, i5-2500k, or the i7-3770 I run now. I'm not the core authority, but I believe it's because of power saving design while 1 core does some minor/miscellaneous work, even at idle.
If I were to install the Corsair H60 in this case, how would I properly set this up? I believe the instructions say to remove the fan that comes with the H60, and then use the air penetrator at the bottom of the case as the radiator fan. Is this correct?
nameBrandon
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Well, a few of us didn't use any additional fans on the radiator, we just screwed the radiator to the bottom of the case, so that the case fan (air penetrator) is blowing up into the radiator. I ran out of space with my full sized PSU and H80 (twice as thick as H60), so I don't have a fan on top of the radiator, just the 140mm blowing from below.
You do need to remove the 140mm case fan initially to mount the radiator, and the H60 will come without the fans mounted to the radiator, so no need to remove them.
Salem has a good picture showing this, with a radiator of equivalent size to the H60. The fan under the case is the 140mm air penetrator, and that's a 120mm on top of the radiator (which I believe he's since removed..)
Good to know
Here's the album of my full build: http://imgur.com/a/jN4c6#0
Overall it was a really tough process getting everything packed into that case especially for a first ever build. The results are great though, I played some of The Witcher 2 in gloriously high details!
A few things to note though: the 120mm Cougar fan does not like to be mounted horizontally. At below 65% rpm it's perfectly fine and silent. However, at 65%+ rpm there is a very audible grinding noise coming from it. I read about this before so apparently they didn't bother to fix this problem. The fan works silently up to max rpm when mounted vertically. I do have another one I could replace to see if it has the same problem.I like the fans, they push a good amount of air without being loud but if both are faulty, I might just go for scythe GTs instead.
it turns out that the external cable routing is not ideal tbh. The inflexible power cable could only go one way because of the front panel stopping it from reaching the back of the case. Right now I have cables coming out the right side and the back which I don't like
My MSI GPU is the only audible component while gaming. It's not even close to a jet engine or my laptop fan. The noise characteristics are a bit weird, but nothing for me to worry about!
My temps are <60-65C for CPU load & <70C for GPU load. My CPU runs at 4.2Ghz under load without OC so I'm pretty sure I won't ever OC this thing haha
Not happy with my build right now.
No matter which fan header I use on my Asrock z77, I can't control fan speeds. The fans run, it just can't control them. Tried Speedfan and the fan control in the BIOS.
Also having a problem with the ST45SF and GTX670 where they stay on even after unplugging the power cable from the PSU (the one that goes from the PSU to the wall). The fans on both the ST45SF and GTX670 continuously run until I unplug both DVI cables connected to the GTX670's DVI ports.
Finally, I've now tried both a Corsair H60 and Antec 620 and had problems with pump noise. With the H60, I get a low rumbling / vibrating noise. With the 620, I could hear the liquid moving when the pump was on.
Are there any good air coolers that will fit in this case with a ST45SF? I'm using an Intel 3770T which is a very cool / low TDP CPU.
No matter which fan header I use on my Asrock z77, I can't control fan speeds. The fans run, it just can't control them. Tried Speedfan and the fan control in the BIOS.
Also having a problem with the ST45SF and GTX670 where they stay on even after unplugging the power cable from the PSU (the one that goes from the PSU to the wall). The fans on both the ST45SF and GTX670 continuously run until I unplug both DVI cables connected to the GTX670's DVI ports.
Finally, I've now tried both a Corsair H60 and Antec 620 and had problems with pump noise. With the H60, I get a low rumbling / vibrating noise. With the 620, I could hear the liquid moving when the pump was on.
Are there any good air coolers that will fit in this case with a ST45SF? I'm using an Intel 3770T which is a very cool / low TDP CPU.
nameBrandon
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Good to know
Here's the album of my full build: http://imgur.com/a/jN4c6#0
Overall it was a really tough process getting everything packed into that case especially for a first ever build. The results are great though, I played some of The Witcher 2 in gloriously high details!
A few things to note though: the 120mm Cougar fan does not like to be mounted horizontally. At below 65% rpm it's perfectly fine and silent. However, at 65%+ rpm there is a very audible grinding noise coming from it. I read about this before so apparently they didn't bother to fix this problem. The fan works silently up to max rpm when mounted vertically. I do have another one I could replace to see if it has the same problem.I like the fans, they push a good amount of air without being loud but if both are faulty, I might just go for scythe GTs instead.
it turns out that the external cable routing is not ideal tbh. The inflexible power cable could only go one way because of the front panel stopping it from reaching the back of the case. Right now I have cables coming out the right side and the back which I don't like
My MSI GPU is the only audible component while gaming. It's not even close to a jet engine or my laptop fan. The noise characteristics are a bit weird, but nothing for me to worry about!
My temps are <60-65C for CPU load & <70C for GPU load. My CPU runs at 4.2Ghz under load without OC so I'm pretty sure I won't ever OC this thing haha
Nice job, glad you managed to wrangle the Seasonic in there! Your certificate for advanced PSU installation is in the mail!
SalemSwift
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After making sure the ASRock bios are up to date, I was able to control my case fan by setting it to auto level 1 and maintain temp at 55C. Under a simple game, load temps don't pass mid to upper 40s for me, so the fan idles around 700RPM. So far, the only time it starts to speed up is under Prime95 torture test. If that still doesn't work, which it should, then you could use wiring adapters that use a resistor to drop the fan voltage down. You could choose a good middle ground adapter for full-time use, like 7 Volts, perhaps.
As for the Antect 620 Kuhler, I had to buy a second one to compare the pump noise. My first one was noisy, like sand running through it. My second one was quiet. There should be a moment of bubbling water noise while it works out the air pockets, but it should quiet right down after that. I also recommend mounting the pump with the hoses on top, logo upside down, and starting the pump for the first time while the case is horizontal. Some people claim it primes the pump on first use, dunno if it helped or not. I didn't do that on the first pump, but did on the second.
The power staying on for the video card and psu is bizarre when it's unplugged. I can only guess the capacitors in the PSU are continuing to discharge for a while. It can't run forever without power from the wall, but it's still an unusual thing to be happening. I'd contact SilverStone about that PSU.
It's his monitors, which do stay plugged into the wall via the UPS. I'm guessing from a little detail in the other thread that his DVI-to-displayport conversion cables are wired wrong and the power is actually coming in reverse-polarity.
Nice job, glad you managed to wrangle the Seasonic in there! Your certificate for advanced PSU installation is in the mail!
Hahaha, I'll make sure I frame it XD
Is the noise persistent after working out the air bubbles? Mine was rumbling for a while at first but a couple hours later I noticed it had went quiet.
I just noticed a scratch on the side panel that you couldn't take off...and Linus told me Silverstone uses an extremely good coating process that is extremely resilient...!
Do you guys think there is anything I can do to make the scratch less visible? This isn't a typical black case where I can put sharpie over it lol. I wonder if SS sells replacement back panels...is the back panel even removable? It looks like it's a part of the case structure being held together by rivets.
Do you guys think there is anything I can do to make the scratch less visible? This isn't a typical black case where I can put sharpie over it lol. I wonder if SS sells replacement back panels...is the back panel even removable? It looks like it's a part of the case structure being held together by rivets.
Judging from this post you can remove the back panel
Hi guys! I recently get all parts fitted in my FT03-mini, but noise seems to be a big issue with it. I also used a Corsair H60 and from time to time the pump makes noises. Today I played a little bit with a side-cover when I hear the pumps noise and after I pushed it a little bit to hard the noise is gone. I'll keep an eye on it I'm not convinced at all...(a similar noise issue is being discussed at the Corsair forum - H60 / H80 / H100 Buzzing or Grinding"
Another big point is the ST45SF-G power supply: is it the normal behavior that the fan remains at a constant high and very loud noise level even on idle windows desktop?
Further I replaced the Silverstone Air penetrator fan by a LEPA Vortex LPVX14P, but neither the SS nor the lepa fan seems a good solution. The SS is too loud (but ensures air flow) and couldn't be managed by the mainboard - the Lepa remains quiet while the mainboard temperatures raises (possibly too low air flow).
Another big point is the ST45SF-G power supply: is it the normal behavior that the fan remains at a constant high and very loud noise level even on idle windows desktop?
Further I replaced the Silverstone Air penetrator fan by a LEPA Vortex LPVX14P, but neither the SS nor the lepa fan seems a good solution. The SS is too loud (but ensures air flow) and couldn't be managed by the mainboard - the Lepa remains quiet while the mainboard temperatures raises (possibly too low air flow).
nameBrandon
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That sucks about your cooler.. My H80 was fine, but you may want to check into the ST45SF-G and that 12V rail as was mentioned by Corsair when they tracked down the issue. Maybe talk to Silverstone about it and see if it could be the culprit (or, I guess, just get an updated replacement from Corsair.. Seems they've fixed the issue.)
Can't help you on the noise.. There was some previous discussion in the dedicated PSU thread for that model about noise, and that's what lead a few of us to cram the full-sized Seasonic PSU's in our builds. I can tell you the X-560 is pretty much silent.. The fan on mine comes on with a decent to heavy OC, but it doesn't turn on at stock clocks, even when gaming. Even when it does turn on it's pretty silent.
Not sure if you're up for the hassle of returning the ST45SF-G and replacing it, but it's an option.
Sorry didn't see your post until now. Would be cool if you could describe your experiences with the PSU in this thread http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1039112533&postcount=146
Hey guys, I just installed a Corsair H80 into my FT03 Mini along with a graphics card and I've noticed a potential problem: the gap between the top of the radiator and the back of the graphics card is only about 1mm wide. If I press on the rear end of the graphics card a little, it will actually make contact with the radiator.
Does anyone know if the radiator is electrically conductive? I know it's made out of metal, but it's also painted. To be on the safe side, I can add a strip of paper or something to cover the top of the radiator, but then it will look quite ugly unless I get black paper...
Does anyone know if the radiator is electrically conductive? I know it's made out of metal, but it's also painted. To be on the safe side, I can add a strip of paper or something to cover the top of the radiator, but then it will look quite ugly unless I get black paper...
nameBrandon
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It's aluminum, so yes, it would conduct electricity. The pump is in the part over the CPU though, so there shouldn't be any current to the actual radiator. Which graphics card? I'm pretty sure my EVGA GTX670 had more than 1mm clearance.
Same card actually, EVGA GTX670 FTW. I can take a picture once I get home, but it's dangerously close. It also depends on how you orient the radiator. I have it so that the side with the hose running into it is facing the card.
Also, my concern is that the back of the graphics card has a few pins that, when the card is pressed slightly, it will make contact with the radiator exactly on those pins.
Also, my concern is that the back of the graphics card has a few pins that, when the card is pressed slightly, it will make contact with the radiator exactly on those pins.
nameBrandon
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Yeah, I don't have the FTW.. I looked at it but I think it was 1/2" longer than the reference 670..
yep, I have the hoses on the other side..
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@nameBrandon, how did you deal with the clasp for the side panel? In my case, I had to remove the clasp (the female part) to get the radiator to fit that way. When I put the side panel on though, the male part of the clasp butts up against the radiator and the panel doesn't sit flush with the case.
nameBrandon
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Hrm.. not sure what clasp your talking about it.. but I have some photos of my ugly build for you to look at, maybe that'll help.
nameBrandon
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This one:
Looking at the picture, it looks like your radiator is applying pressure on the clasp. Does this mean you don't have the radiator screwed in to the bottom of the case?
Nope, the radiator is fully screwed in, and I didn't notice anything impeding the mounting of the radiator, it was one of the first things I did. The sides go on just fine. That's curious though, a number of people use H60's and no one reported an issue like that.. strange.
Ok, I got the pictures.
Notice how there's not enough room for the clasp to go in because it butts up right against the radiator:
But there's plenty of room to spare between the radiator and graphics card:
If I reverse the radiator direction, there's now ample room for the clasp:
But conversely, there's so little room between the graphics card and the radiator that I had to add a sheet of paper in between to make sure they don't touch:
Notice how there's not enough room for the clasp to go in because it butts up right against the radiator:
But there's plenty of room to spare between the radiator and graphics card:
If I reverse the radiator direction, there's now ample room for the clasp:
But conversely, there's so little room between the graphics card and the radiator that I had to add a sheet of paper in between to make sure they don't touch:
Not sure which thread to post this in, so I'm posting it in this thread + the ASRock Z77E-ITX thread.
So I built a system with the FT03-Mini and ASRock Z77E-ITX.
I have not had good luck with the Corsair H60 or Antec 620. Tried two of each and every one of them made buzzing, gurgling noises.
So I tried an Arctic Cooling Freezer 11 LP, BUT it blocked one RAM slot AND the PCIe 16x slot no matter which way it was oriented. I'm using Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM and an EVGA GTX670 4GB Superclocked.
SO, anyone have any recommendations on a heatsink that:
- fits the Z77E-ITX w/o blocking RAM slots and the PCIe 16x slot
- fits in the space available after a ST45SF-G is installed
- is not very loud or has replaceable fans
So I built a system with the FT03-Mini and ASRock Z77E-ITX.
I have not had good luck with the Corsair H60 or Antec 620. Tried two of each and every one of them made buzzing, gurgling noises.
So I tried an Arctic Cooling Freezer 11 LP, BUT it blocked one RAM slot AND the PCIe 16x slot no matter which way it was oriented. I'm using Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM and an EVGA GTX670 4GB Superclocked.
SO, anyone have any recommendations on a heatsink that:
- fits the Z77E-ITX w/o blocking RAM slots and the PCIe 16x slot
- fits in the space available after a ST45SF-G is installed
- is not very loud or has replaceable fans
nameBrandon
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Ok, I got the pictures.
Notice how there's not enough room for the clasp to go in because it butts up right against the radiator:
Yep, makes sense now. When I have a moment today I'll take that side panel off and check for you. Looking at yours now, I think I probably mounted the radiator right on top of that clasp and never even noticed it.. I imagine I stopped screwing when I got enough resistance on the screwdriver and left it at that.. That's a good find, and might help explain why my temps are a bit lower than most people's that I've seen since there'd be that extra pocket underneath the radiator for air circulation.
I'm working from home today so I need the PC, can't really pull it apart, but I'll definitely get some close-ups of that clasp / radiator issue.
nameBrandon
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You were right, it's mounted slightly on top of the clasp.. No issues here though, works fine, sides close fine.
tuanster1119
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The buzzing is because air bubbles get pushed through the pump. I had the same issue with my 620, I ended up turning the pump so the nozzles were at the top. The logo was upside down but the buzzing went away. Not a big deal since I rarely ever look at the inside of my computer.
He's got his fan on the case bottom, whereas you have the rad on the case bottom. The fan has slightly smaller out-to-out dimensions than the rad.
I mounted the H60 and 620 every orientation they'd mount and had the noise everytime. The only time they were quiet was when I turned the pump upside down (logo on top facing the ground).
nameBrandon
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I didn't really follow that, but I have the stock 140mm fan underneath the case, where it was located from the factory.. if that clarifies anything.
I think he mistakenly thought that you had a fan between the radiator and the case, hence why you were able to secure your radiator on, even with the clasp in the way.
In my case, I just flipped the radiator around, but making sure to put a piece of paper on top so that the graphics card doesn't short.
Correct. I see now where he has it sitting...looks almost like it's just jacked up on one side.
nameBrandon
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What temps are you getting? I assume your running Ivy Bridge? Just curious, I'm still surprised at how well this H80 is doing with only the air penetrator on it.
I've got the H80 set to medium, and at idle when it clocks down to 1.6GHz I'm averaging ~25C across all 4 cores (3570k). OC'd to 4.2GHZ I hit ~59-60C with Prime95.. (ambient is ~70F/21C). It's my first non-air build, it's just been blowing my mind. Very happy with the H80.
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