Silverstone FT03... matx

So for those who've used a Corsair H50 or H70 in this case, what type of idle temperatures have you been seeing?

I built my system this morning, with an i5 2500K and the new Corsair H60. I mounted the radiator fan so that it is blowing out of the case, and I used the Silverstone fan that came mounted to the external 120 mm mount as the second fan on the radiator (so it goes: Corsair fan -> Radiator -> Silverstone fan -> backpanel / case top).

Using this configuration, and with all the other 120 mm fans mounted as they are, currently my i5 2500K is idling at 46 C, which seems really high...

Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated. :)

Edit - I should add that if the system is shut down and let to sit for awhile, and then I go into the BIOS and check the BIOS temperature, it shows that it starts off around 41 C, then climbs to 45-46 C. Given the rather high temperature it's even beginning at, could the BIOS simply be mis-reporting the temperature?

It shows the motherboard temperature as 30 C, which at least seems more reasonable.
 
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ToastyBread said:
So for those who've used a Corsair H50 or H70 in this case, what type of idle temperatures have you been seeing?

I built my system this morning, with an i5 2500K and the new Corsair H60. I mounted the radiator fan so that it is blowing out of the case, and I used the Silverstone fan that came mounted to the external 120 mm mount as the second fan on the radiator (so it goes: Corsair fan -> Radiator -> Silverstone fan -> backpanel / case top).

Using this configuration, and with all the other 120 mm fans mounted as they are, currently my i5 2500K is idling at 46 C, which seems really high...

Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated. :)
Click to expand...

I am using the H50 with push pull fans in my FT03 with all fans replaced with GT AP-15s. My 2600k (@4.5GHz on load) idles at around the high 30's. It was idling at low 30s before I remounted without changing the oem TIM. Can't be bothered reseating it properly until I get my B3 board replacement.

I can only suggest you try a reseat of the cold plate and reapply TIM in the process.
 
hmmm, this is all making be feel good about the FT03 :) I'll post pics when I get it in the mail :D
 
The thing with the H50 / H60 / H70 is that they're just average when the CPU is idling. It's not until you get higher CPU utilization that these coolers shine.

My CPU's idle temps. are usually around the low 30s. When I stress the CPU by running BOINC, the temps. go up to the low 50s and stay there until I shut BOINC down.

I have two 120mm Enermax Clusters on the H70's radiator with both fans blowing up and out of the FT03.
 
are the enermax clusters the ones with name drilled through on the shroud? Those fans really look nice :) Especially since they seem to be LED lit!! Argh, all I got are a bunch of GTAP15s sitting here...
 
Yes, that's the one:
cluster_enermax.jpg


Supposedly, they can pull more air since they get some of it through the shroud, but I haven't had time to compare them to regular fans. I like how they look (white LEDs and all) so all four of my fans in my FT03 are now Enermax Clusters. :p
 
ToastyBread said:
So for those who've used a Corsair H50 or H70 in this case, what type of idle temperatures have you been seeing?

Using this configuration, and with all the other 120 mm fans mounted as they are, currently my i5 2500K is idling at 46 C, which seems really high...
Click to expand...
I just finished tucking all the wires away this afternoon. The highest I've seen idle hit on the 2500K is 33. It's usually 28-32 depending on the temp here in the apartment. I didn't really do anything special, just the normal config I've seen here and on the Chinese build.

For the FT03 itself...man, I love the look of the case and finished product. First experience building with mATX, and I can definitely say I learned a few things for next time, not the least of which is make sure to put in the video card after absolutely everything else is done. :p

Sidenotes: Anyone having an issue with interference on the HD audio cable? If so, any ideas on fixes? A friend mentioned buying a ferrite core from Radio Shack.

Here's a pic, and then there are five more if you want to take a look. Not as clean as mjl's by a long shot.

IMAG0114.jpg
 
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Well, I replaced the two fans I was using on the radiator, and that had no impact.

I unmounted the cooler, cleaned off the TIM, re-mounted it, and the idle temperature is still around 46 C, with an ambient temperature outside now of around 22 C.

Ultimately, it has to either be the BIOS reporting an incorrect temperature, or the H60 is simply bad. Right now I'm leaning more towards it being a bad H60 (this was the initial run afterall).
 
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Hmmm.... the Core i series has been known to have stuck temp diodes, though have you tried undervolting and downclocking to see if that cause was the H60 or just a bad temp diode?
 
wishi said:
I am using the H50 with push pull fans in my FT03 with all fans replaced with GT AP-15s. My 2600k (@4.5GHz on load) idles at around the high 30's. It was idling at low 30s before I remounted without changing the oem TIM. Can't be bothered reseating it properly until I get my B3 board replacement.

I can only suggest you try a reseat of the cold plate and reapply TIM in the process.
Click to expand...

Could you by chance post a picture of what your FT03 looks/looked like with the H50 installed?
 
jeremyshaw said:
Hmmm.... the Core i series has been known to have stuck temp diodes, though have you tried undervolting and downclocking to see if that cause was the H60 or just a bad temp diode?
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Haven' t tried that, but in the process of changing out one fan I inadvertently unplugged the pump (the block was fully attached, other fans running, etc) so when I first started up the temperature was climbing quickly (it went up to around 64 C) and so I shut it down and realized that I'd accidentally hooked the pump's power cable and unplugged it. That thought made me realize the temperature sensor in some form is working.

It's annoying because my previous system had an H50 that worked fine. I had wanted to simply re-use it, and in January put in a request to Corsair for a Socket 1155/1156 bracket (I have one of the original H50s that didn't have a Lynnfield mount) since the Corsair Store never had it in stock. I was told one would be shipped out in 2-3 weeks once another shipment came in, but that was mid-January and, as of now, I've neither heard anything back about it or received one. So I figured I'd pick up the H60, but now I'm regretting that.
 
Stuck at lower temps, not stuck outright. I'm sorry, I kinda assumed you knew about it :p Though normally, they are stuck once they reach a very low temp... (and will not go lower, once you go up, it will go higher and behave normally).

is the pump attached to the mobo or directly to a 12V line?
 
Thanks. I hate routing internal cables out the back and using up ports on the back to make front ports functional.

I hope I'm helping at least showing my H70 setup.
 
jeremyshaw said:
Stuck at lower temps, not stuck outright. I'm sorry, I kinda assumed you knew about it :p Though normally, they are stuck once they reach a very low temp... (and will not go lower, once you go up, it will go higher and behave normally).

is the pump attached to the mobo or directly to a 12V line?
Click to expand...
Oh, thought you meant stuck in general. :p

I've tried attaching the pump to each of the available FAN headers at different times (my motherboard has three: CPU, CHA and PWR). I've also tried connecting it to an adapter cable I have that gives 12 V as well, but that had no effect. I disabled the power-management utility in the EFI BIOS before trying each of the headers, so that the pump would get full power. It always resulted in the same idle temperatures. :(


Synomenon said:
Thanks. I hate routing internal cables out the back and using up ports on the back to make front ports functional.

I hope I'm helping at least showing my H70 setup.
Click to expand...
It did help, so thanks for posting them! When you swapped out the fans, did you just use the screws that came with the H70 kit, or did you get your own? I remember when I had an H50 on my old system, I had to go and get another four long screws that could fit through the backpanel of my old case, including through the protective grill.

I'm probably going to just disassemble the H60 tonight, package it back up and swap it out for a H70 at Fry's tomorrow.
 
If you're going to Fry's (which location, BTW?) I'd also recommend a Hyper 212+ :) Cheap, yet capable air cooler :D
 
Synomenon said:
Thanks. I hate routing internal cables out the back and using up ports on the back to make front ports functional.

I hope I'm helping at least showing my H70 setup.
Click to expand...

Does this mean your front USB3.0 ports are now connected to the USB2 headers ojn the motherboard?
I don't remember the P8P67m pro or any other motherboards having USB3.0 headers... or am I mistaken?
 
wishi said:
Does this mean your front USB3.0 ports are now connected to the USB2 headers ojn the motherboard?
I don't remember the P8P67m pro or any other motherboards having USB3.0 headers... or am I mistaken?
Click to expand...

he's using a PCIe USB3.0 card with an internal USB3.0 port :) (though not a header).
 
ToastyBread said:
It did help, so thanks for posting them! When you swapped out the fans, did you just use the screws that came with the H70 kit, or did you get your own?
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Yes, the screws I'm using in my setup are the ones included with the H70. I didn't have to go out and find different screws.


wishi said:
Does this mean your front USB3.0 ports are now connected to the USB2 headers ojn the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Nope. My front USB3.0 ports are still USB3.0.

My motherboard has two PCIe 16x slots and two PCIe 1x slots in-between the 16x slots.

In one of the 1x slots, I have this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815201033

Then I took one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817270024

removed it from the bay adapter so all I had left was the bare USB3.0 hub PCB.

Then I connected that hub to the internal port on the card. Front USB3.0 ports are connected to the hub.
 
jeremyshaw said:
If you're going to Fry's (which location, BTW?) I'd also recommend a Hyper 212+ :) Cheap, yet capable air cooler :D
Click to expand...

It's the Tempe, Arizona Fry's. :)

It's somewhat depressing though - I'd really been looking forward to the H60, and when I stopped there on Friday, they had JUST gotten them in (they were in a cart waiting to be put on the shelf, as there wasn't even a shelf label yet).

Oh well, I'll get a credit and either get a H70 or a good air cooler.
 
Ah, a bit far from me :( H70 is good, I just am unsure if it's pump is quieter than the H50s. SonDa5's H50/H70 comparison didn't fare so well for the H70 :( He now only runs a H50.
 
jeremyshaw said:
Ah, a bit far from me :( H70 is good, I just am unsure if it's pump is quieter than the H50s. SonDa5's H50/H70 comparison didn't fare so well for the H70 :( He now only runs a H50.
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Are you in Arizona?

I figure that in this system, the top fans on the radiator will likely yield more noise than the pump will. Plus, it seems like the H70 provides a little more flexibility in terms of cable positioning.

I really wish that Antec's Kuhler H20 620 was more available, as it seems like it's cables are FAR more flexible for arrangement.

Synomenon said:
I previously had a H50 and my H70's pump is more quiet.
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Good to know! My old H50's pump never really bothered me too much. Given my previous mATX case (NZXT Rogue), the four side 120mm fans were by far the greatest source of noise though.
 
My P180mini was silent enough (undervolted GTAP15 * 5 - top fan replaced, too) the H50's pump was the noisiest part of my setup :(

I live in this oh so wonderful :rolleyes: place called Cali... :p
 
jeremyshaw said:
My P180mini was silent enough (undervolted GTAP15 * 5 - top fan replaced, too) the H50's pump was the noisiest part of my setup :(

I live in this oh so wonderful :rolleyes: place called Cali... :p
Click to expand...

Ah, yeah, I've traditionally used Scythe S-Flex SFF21Fs for my case fans.

Cali? Your Frys should definitely have them then, since our Fry's here in Arizona received their product shipment from warehouses in Cali.
 
we should have H70? Yeah, we have H50,60,70 and the 212+, just not much more than that :( (well, the V6 and V8, but I am unsure if that will fit).
 

@Schlep: Thanks for pointing out that my ram was configured as single channel. I had completely overlooked that fact. It has sped up my POST considerably!
 
wishi said:
@Schlep: Thanks for pointing out that my ram was configured as single channel. I had completely overlooked that fact. It has sped up my POST considerably!
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np. I actually took that line out of my post, because I thought...well, maybe I have it wrong. I don't want to sound like an ass. :p Glad to know it helped.
 
So I found this on ASUS' site:

Problem

I find that the CPU temperature reading in BIOS is about 10~20 degrees centigrade hotter than the reading in OS. Is it normal?
Click to expand...

Answer
That is normal as BIOS does not send idle command to the CPU, making most of the power saving features useless. You should be getting similar reading if you disable EIST/C1E/CPU C3 Report/CPU C6 Report in BIOS.
Click to expand...

Under "Related Model", they list what appears to be EVERY H67 model they sell. Since I'm running the P8H67-M EVO, and it's included in the list, I'm thinking this is maybe the issue itself?

I went ahead though and returned the H60 and picked up an H70. Tonight I'll re-assemble my system, check the temperatures, but also get Windows installed and check the temperature in Windows to see what it shows. What do most consider to be the best program to check core temperatures these days?
 
Does anyone know if the double-sided tape on the H70's backplate is *required*?

I swear I'm fated not to finish this system... I picked up the H70 today, brought it home, and went to put the backplate on my system... and due to where ASUS placed some of the capacitors, small metal ends are poking out on one of the sides of the the 1155 socket back bracket. Thus, the H70's cooling plate can't be attached unless I push the rubber pads into those metal pins (and not sure if that's such a good idea?).
 
My Rampage II GENE had those same "small metal pokers" on the backside of the mobo. I simply put the thick tape on (it's why it's there), and let them get poked :p
 
jeremyshaw said:
My Rampage II GENE had those same "small metal pokers" on the backside of the mobo. I simply put the thick tape on (it's why it's there), and let them get poked :p
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I ended up just leaving one of them on to assist with the bracket staying in place. I found online that the adhesive pads aren't really needed, and installing the cooler confirmed this.

So everything is up and running. The BIOS went down to around 39-40 C with the H70, but my room is currently quite a bit cooler due to considerably cooler temperatures today/tonight.

However, I installed CPUID's HWMonitor just to get a quick idea, and it currently shows the four cores ranging from 29 C to around 33 C, so I'm guessing the BIOS is simply inaccurately reporting the temperature (as the ASUS FAQ noted)?
 
Gonna be trying on Friday to fit twin gtx570 ref in this sucker :D

Got the gtx570s, mobo CPU ram arriving tomorrow....case and psu on Fri :(
Posted via Mobile Device
 
jeremyshaw said:
Gonna be trying on Friday to fit twin gtx570 ref in this sucker :D
Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...

Sound awesome :)
Could you do a noise and temp test comparing 1 x gtx570 vs 2 x gtx570 in a closed case?
I've ordered 1 gtx 570, but am considering adding a second one in the future.
No rush :)
 
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