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Setup a basic kit but temps are whacked - What am i doing wrong :(

K

Kuma

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
324
I received a second hand innovatek kit that i am currently trying out. It consists of a 120mm rad an eheim pump and xxs cpu waterblock and another xxs chipset block. Tygon is the tubing and I have 1 yate loon in a pull config on the rad mounting externally. Now before this I has a Zalman 9700 which gave me idle temps ~48 and ~60 under load. Considering I have a e6300 @ 3.01ghz with 1.4v on air I figured that was acceptable. With this kit however I now idle ~54c and load can break 70c in under 5 minutes running orthos :eek:
Is the kit just craptastic if so what should i replace and/or scrap. I am new to water and my previous attempts have all left me unimpressed but now am pretty determined to stick to it.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
What is the idle temp when you first start it up + 5 min, after you have left the system off all night (cold boot +5 min) ?

You mention the rad is mounted externally. It is pulling fresh ambient room air, not air from inside the case ?

Something seems wrong, can you provide a link so we can see which kit you have ? I am interested in particular how the waterblock is mounted/clamped. My kit did not use spring mounting so I fabricated a hold down our of 3/8 acrylic (easy to cut with jig saw or coping saw, even a hacksaw would work) and assembled from hardware store parts a proper block mounting system. It was more work gathering what I needed than to actually do it.

http://mysite.verizon.net/ressdxka/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/computer007.jpg


the other obvious things, lapp the cpu water block, check the cpu IHS for flatness and lapp it as well. No kinks, verify pump is actually pumping water. clean out rad and make sure there are no blockages by blowing through it.
 
The kit is craptastic. Innovatek, Thermaltake, Koolance, Zalman are just a few of the names to avoid in the watercooling world.

I'd suggest a kit from more reputable brands. However, if you're capable enough to install a watercooling kit (as you've just done), then you're able to install a custom loop. I'm sure others here are more than willing to help you select out parts to obtain better performance.
 
Unfortunately I cant tell what the ambient temp is in this room but it is the hottest room in my house. I have been exiled by my wife. The kit is secondhand and a few yrs old. I guess what i really need to know is in what order should i upgrade. I can't shell out 300 in one shot right now but over a few weeks it is definitely possible.
 
I'm really at a loss... Have you tried remounting that waterblock?

Any kit will be enough to kill the heat from a conroe 3.5ghz and under.
 
I thought it was the rad at first but now am leaning towards the pump. Its an Eheim 1048. Looks pretty outdated. I think I should replace it the pump and res first. Would this have any adverse affects ?

As for the block, I lapped it (took only 2hrs as it was in pretty good shape) and I have reseated it 5 times since yesterday. Temps have gotten worse at times and seems the 54c idle temps and 70c load was the best i can muster. During the reseating I have used AS5, ceramique and even liquid pro coollaboratory. Must be the kit itself. Guess it cant handle CPU and NB as is.
 
Kuma said:
I thought it was the rad at first but now am leaning towards the pump. Its an Eheim 1048. Looks pretty outdated. I think I should replace it the pump and res first. Would this have any adverse affects ?

As for the block, I lapped it (took only 2hrs as it was in pretty good shape) and I have reseated it 5 times since yesterday. Temps have gotten worse at times and seems the 54c idle temps and 70c load was the best i can muster. During the reseating I have used AS5, ceramique and even liquid pro coollaboratory. Must be the kit itself. Guess it cant handle CPU and NB as is.
Click to expand...

the HPPS+ (assuming that's what you have) should be at least on par with the 1048.
 
Kuma said:
Unfortunately I cant tell what the ambient temp is in this room but it is the hottest room in my house. I have been exiled by my wife. The kit is secondhand and a few yrs old. I guess what i really need to know is in what order should i upgrade. I can't shell out 300 in one shot right now but over a few weeks it is definitely possible.
Click to expand...

Add another rad to the loop and if that is a low speed fan go to a medium/normal speed fan

If the room is 85 deg F + that is most of your issue and a small window air conditioner + 3 months of additional electricity charges would probally be less than $300 with the extra bonus of being much more comfortable for you as well as the computer. Anyway the blocks tend to work pretty good and expensive ones only buy you at best a couple of degs, you pump is sufficient, you need to dump the heat more efficiently, more rad/fan or lower ambient temp or both.

Its an Eheim 1048.
Click to expand...

dont be fooled by fancy expensive new "watercooling pumps" if that pump is working properly it is a very good reliable and quiet pump. Its better than mine.

With some extra cooling capacity that kit will do fine. If that fan is a low speed one that is killling you too, that single rad can dump a KW of heat but it all about the delta in temp between the ambient air and the coolant in the rad (you want as large a difference as possible) and the amount of air flowing over the fins.
 
well dayum the flow rate is 158gph. Should be more than enough. maybe its the radiator :confused: now am really lost.
 
BillParrish said:
Add a dual rad to the loop an look if the fittings on the rest of the stuff can be changed to accommodate larger hose.

If the room is 85 deg F + that is most of your issue and a small window air conditioner + 3 months of additional electricity charges would probally be less than $300 with the extra bonus of being much more comfortable for you as well as the computer. Anyway the blocks tend to work pretty good and expensive ones only buy you at best a couple of degs, you pump is sufficient, you need to dump the heat more efficiently, more rad/fan or lower ambient temp or both.
Click to expand...
Just the conclusion I came up with. I'll order a dual rad and see how it works. Can I go push pull config on a dual rad. Assuming the rad is external.
 
never underestimate my n00biness..

Does the length of the tube have anything to do with my problems ?
See pic below.

P7290358.jpg


looking at the limp tube makes me laff my arse off..
 
as long as it is not kinked it should not matter a great deal. I would not trim it unless you had extra in case you need some long lengths for an additional rad.

Thanks for the pic, just a quick reply, gonna take a close look now. A close up of the mounting method of the cpu waterblock would be great. I am still worrying about insufficient clamping force. If you gently try to wiggle the cpu block, does it move ? It should not.
 
Kuma said:
Just the conclusion I came up with. I'll order a dual rad and see how it works. Can I go push pull config on a dual rad. Assuming the rad is external.
Click to expand...

Most rads have the mounting holes for fans on both sides, however running push pull without a shroud that holds the fans at least an inch away from the rad does not tend to help a whole lot. It helps but not as much as one would think but fans are not that expensive so /shrug and if you dont end up using 4 a couple of fans laying around always comes in handy.
 
The pics come out worse when i try a close up shot. I can tell you the cpu block is pretty firm in place. I can actually move my tower by grabbing the cpu block. It will not move.

This is very strange. I fail to understand ho wthe zalman 9700 (which is good but not the best) was ~10c cooler :(
 
Think i may have figured out what it was. The cpu block was firm but i looked at it closer and realized it wasnt sitting right. Tried to reseat it but couldn't get it evenly onto the cpu. I just ordered an aquaextreme cpu block from petra's. I'll see if that works before doing anything else.
 
wow lack of sleep can get to me. Ok after shutting the comp down for a few hours I am able to watch the temps from boot up.
When the computer first boots it idles at 44c. after running orthos for 1 hr the temps rose to 51c and then went north.. alebit slowly. After 3 hours I am back to ~65c while running orthos. Temps are cooler than yesterday. Thermostat says the room is approx 80F. Now I shut down orthos and temps drop to high 40s floating around 47-48c.

Again I am running an e6300 @ 3.01ghz (430x7) @ 1.4v
my Vmch is 1.82 on an aw9d-max

I realigned the waterblock and can confirm it is now making full contact. I don't like the pressure type bracket the mount uses though. seems flimsy.
At this point after watching the temps I believe the 120rad I have simply became heatsoaked and is not sufficiently cooling. Would a black ice II with panflos do better than my current 120rad (innovatek) with an old antec tricool fan set on high (currently whats on it).
 
Kuma said:
Think i may have figured out what it was. The cpu block was firm but i looked at it closer and realized it wasnt sitting right. Tried to reseat it but couldn't get it evenly onto the cpu. I just ordered an aquaextreme cpu block from petra's. I'll see if that works before doing anything else.
Click to expand...

Bingo !!! wait till that shows up, getting the block to sit flat will make a HUGE difference, so much so that you may not need anything else.
 
Ranker said:
The kit is craptastic. Innovatek, Thermaltake, Koolance, Zalman are just a few of the names to avoid in the watercooling world.
Click to expand...
have you tried a zalman or are you just regurgitating what you have read somewhere? with my reserator 1 plus my cpu idles at 32 and loads at 39. along with that my 7800gtx idles at 37 and loads at 45. not too bad for a silent one piece no fuss system. its been running like this for nearly 2 years now non stop.
 
BillParrish said:
Bingo !!! wait till that shows up, getting the block to sit flat will make a HUGE difference, so much so that you may not need anything else.
Click to expand...

I took a piece a cardboard and placed it between the bracket and the block and the temps seem better. Still not better than my second tower with an ultra 120. Very odd they are side by side with very similar hardware and exact overclock yet that ultra 120 idles at ~38c and I still idle at 45c hmm
 
This gets better. I am also cooling my NB and upon interrogation of my younger brother who assisted me it seems he forgot to add thermal paste to my NB before mounting the block on it.. my mch is at 1.82 anyone think that can contribute some heat to the loop :mad:
 
rhexis said:
have you tried a zalman or are you just regurgitating what you have read somewhere? with my reserator 1 plus my cpu idles at 32 and loads at 39. along with that my 7800gtx idles at 37 and loads at 45. not too bad for a silent one piece no fuss system. its been running like this for nearly 2 years now non stop.
Click to expand...

I've bought/used/trashed a Zalman reserator 1 and a Koolance Exos 2. The reserator could not keep up with the heat dump and had ridiculously high temps. In addition the pump broke within the first 3 months. Funny that is a typical complaint for everyone that purchases the Reserator. Zalman even acknowledged the problem when I called them for the RMA.

Kuma said:
I took a piece a cardboard and placed it between the bracket and the block and the temps seem better. Still not better than my second tower with an ultra 120. Very odd they are side by side with very similar hardware and exact overclock yet that ultra 120 idles at ~38c and I still idle at 45c hmm
Click to expand...

From what you describe, you're radiator seems to be taxed to the limit. You'd be better off upgrading your radiator at the moment and can upgrade the other components down the line. I'd suggest a 3x120mm radiator if you can fit it to avoid future upgrade hassles down the road if you plan on adding additional water blocks or inducing heavier overclocks.
 
Fitting it the rad wont be an issue. I actually dont mount it to my case. I keep it external near a vent about 7" above the groud on a stand.
Guess rad will be first. and remount my NB block with thermal paste :mad:
 
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