Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

someone asked maybe a week ago about how to get into the service menu of the 226bw. this is what i stumbled upon on another forum:

"1. Adjust the brightness and contrast to 0
2. Press Menu
3. Press source (second on the right)for 5 seconds
You will see the "service function" menu. Focus on the "Panel info"
AU M220EW01 means from A
AM LCD220M1 means from S"

haven't tried myself yet
I finally bought the 226BW but the back sticker says:

BUT in SERVICE MENU says:

Do i have an S panel or A panel? What da hell? :confused:
 
I
Guys just wondering but do both A and S pannels have same low input lag or is any of this faster?


Also what does Pixel shift do if anything at all and what do Cycles mean?
 
Sorry for all the pics, 56K beware!!!




Hey guys :) I just got my two 226BW's from Newegg today!!! YAHOoOOoOOO!!!! (S panels!)

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:D Let me know what you guys think!!
 
I finally bought the 226BW but the back sticker says:

BUT in SERVICE MENU says:

Do i have an S panel or A panel? What da hell? :confused:

That's an awesome question. I would rely on what the panel has to say through the Service Menu, personally. And I would say a S panel. But even then I am not sure.

How is your backlight bleeding?
 
That's an awesome question. I would rely on what the panel has to say through the Service Menu, personally.

How is your backlight bleeding?
Thank's for your sugestion. ;) The backlight is only bleeding a veryyy little in the top and in the bottom... is almost perfect. But i wold like to know why it says A in the sticker...
 
When I get home tonight I'll take some pictures of the S and the A panel side by side to show the backlight bleed.
Please do take pictures. Again though, there are people who have S panels that have also reported a large amount of bleeding. My A panel has a lot of bleeding but I don't notice it under normal use. It's somewhat noticeable on a dark background in a dark room but not to the point where it's annoying. Please do take photos of this sparkle effect you mentioned. I have no such problem with my A panel.
 
I finally bought the 226BW but the back sticker says:

BUT in SERVICE MENU says:

Do i have an S panel or A panel? What da hell? :confused:

This is pretty interesting. Both my sticker and the service menu indicate I have an A panel. I wonder if they just slap whatever stickers they have available on the monitor. It would be kind of amusing to find out that a lot of people who think they're so "lucky" to get an S panel really have an A instead.
 
This is pretty interesting. Both my sticker and the service menu indicate I have an A panel. I wonder if they just slap whatever stickers they have available on the monitor. It would be kind of amusing to find out that a lot of people who think they're so "lucky" to get an S panel really have an A instead.
That would be great. :D

This one shows as the same model number (that ME thing), put the sticker shows S -

All I know is that with the two A panels I received from Circuit City, both had noisy dithering over VGA connections with two different cables. The S panel did not. I could not test with over DVI as I had no such connection yet, though. I don't think anyone else has got this problem, though. :\
 
using the nvidia control panel, I used the calibration tool to adjust my monitor. I also backed off the contrast to 44 in the control panel as well. Then, I set the monitor to brightness-40 and contrast to 75. This gave me much better results than the spyder configuration. Fear, Oblivion, and Stalker all look extremely kick ass now! Even in the dark areas, it looks awesome.

By the way, I have an A panel. You just have to take the time to adjust it. I think the key might be in your video card control panel. (at least for the nvidia people out there) Hope this helps.
 
S on the left. A on the right. I took these by unplugging my dvi cable so the monitor was just showing it's black screen with the check input dialog thingy.

Side by Side 1/5 sec:


Side by Side 1/4 sec:


Side by Side 1/8 sec:


A 1/2 sec:


S 1/2 sec:


I wasn't able to capture the weird thing I was seeing on the A panel. It's more like vibration, it looked like the screen/pixels were shaking very rapidly. I tried swapping my DVI and power cables to make sure it was the monitor - it had no affect. I took other pictures with various brightness/contrast levels but honestly it didn't really change much in terms of what it looked like.

I also double checked with the debug menu to make sure my A was actually an A and S was an S. They both checked out with what others have been posting here.
 
How does this monitor handle 720p and 1080i/p sources through HDMI? Will it downscale a 1080p source to the res of this monitor? Is there 1:1?
 
using the nvidia control panel, I used the calibration tool to adjust my monitor. I also backed off the contrast to 44 in the control panel as well. Then, I set the monitor to brightness-40 and contrast to 75. This gave me much better results than the spyder configuration.

Thanks for the settings, but I couldn't understand what you did. Could you explain the settings again? Did you adjust Contrast both on the monitor and on nvidia control panel? Did you change gamma?
 
How does this monitor handle 720p and 1080i/p sources through HDMI? Will it downscale a 1080p source to the res of this monitor? Is there 1:1?

It doesn't' have an HDMI port. Just VGA and DVI. Its also only 1680x1050, not quite 1080
 
I adjusted contrast in nvidia control panel and on monitor. I left everything else default in the nvidia control panel. didn't touch gamma. by default, it should be set @ .9
 
it has DVI-HDCP which is basically the same as HDMI

so will 720p sources display 1:1 ?
will 1080i/1080p sources scale down to 1680x950 (the biggest box a 16:9 ratio can draw on the screen)?

how about 480p? will it display 1:1?
 
I haven't tested it with the digital connection, but I imagine the results would be the same as those over the analog. I fed it 1080i over rgb and it said unsupported resolution, 720p scales and stretches to full screen (1680x1050).
 
I got one question for LCDs and this TN panels. On the above pictures when you see the back light compression between S and A panel. Do you guys see same not constant colors when you use default windows blue as your background? Or any one color for whole background at all? Like the backlight wouldn't be constant on the whole surfaces like there are very weak shadows all over the place?

Also what about does anybody know how input lag is effected on this S and A monitors? Which one has less input lag?
 
I got one question for LCDs and this TN panels. On the above pictures when you see the back light compression between S and A panel. Do you guys see same not constant colors when you use default windows blue as your background? Or any one color for whole background at all? Like the backlight wouldn't be constant on the whole surfaces like there are very weak shadows all over the place?

yes, the backlight is visibly NOT homogenous on my S panel, which btw shows about the same amount of backlight bleed as the A panel on the pictures above. and yes, it is the Samsung made panel not only according to the sticker but also according to the service menu. however it does not appear to have the problems with dithering artifacts described above
 
Well I dunno if we are talking about the same thing. Thats what I mean and look at the not so balanced blue color.

http://freeweb.siol.net/denisbr5/DSC00174.JPG

yes i think we are, although on this specific picture the darker blue on top and more washed out blue towards the bottom is probably caused by the viewing angle which is a problem inherent to all TN panels. nevertheless the 226bw exhibits similar differences in brigtness over the area of the panel caused by irregular backlight as well
 
Well I made sure the camera was centered up and down left and right.

sure, but even if the camera is precisely centered, only the centre of the panel is viewed at an angle of 90 deg. whereas the top and the bottom are viewed at slightly different angles which unfortunately makes quite a difference with TN panels. the part viewed from below (that is the top of the screen) appears darker and more contrasty whereas the part viewed from above (the bottom of the screen) appears lighter and more "washed out"
 
This is pretty interesting. Both my sticker and the service menu indicate I have an A panel. I wonder if they just slap whatever stickers they have available on the monitor. It would be kind of amusing to find out that a lot of people who think they're so "lucky" to get an S panel really have an A instead.
So, you think the service info is the correct info about the panel?
 
sure, but even if the camera is precisely centered, only the centre of the panel is viewed at an angle of 90 deg. whereas the top and the bottom are viewed at slightly different angles which unfortunately makes quite a difference with TN panels. the part viewed from below (that is the top of the screen) appears darker and more contrasty whereas the part viewed from above (the bottom of the screen) appears lighter and more "washed out"

Ofcourse you are right but I didnt really mean the very top and bottom end of the monitor. More like the darker areas around the center of it. It looks like on my picture there is a lighter line going from left to right in the center. Then 1cm under it it gets abit darker again and then 1cm under that it gets more lighter again.

Like on this picture from Sandman. He used a more darker blue http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b20/DjSandman87/226BW/DSC01656.jpg
Angles are different sure but I would expect a smooth flow from dark to light for example and not such ligther and darker spots all around.
 
How would someone test for dithering also? I got an A panel says so in info screen and back of monitor so Im wondering. If I understood right dithering is when pixels arent fully stable like shaking or blinking or something. I havent noticed anything of this yet but what is a good clean test for this? My monitor is DVI connected. In past I seen some really bad display like they blinking like you would expect a CRT on 60Hz to do lol.
Was under the impression this has something to do with other monitors standing so close to this one but dunno.
 
using the nvidia control panel, I used the calibration tool to adjust my monitor. I also backed off the contrast to 44 in the control panel as well. Then, I set the monitor to brightness-40 and contrast to 75. This gave me much better results than the spyder configuration. Fear, Oblivion, and Stalker all look extremely kick ass now! Even in the dark areas, it looks awesome.

By the way, I have an A panel. You just have to take the time to adjust it. I think the key might be in your video card control panel. (at least for the nvidia people out there) Hope this helps.

I like the 40/75 setting over my own 100/50 which looked dull. I set the color tone to warm though, otherwise skin tones when viewing pictures look to cold.

Another thing.. After a few days of use I really like the monitor and the small bleeding top/bottom still does not annoy me at all.

But I still keep on checking this forum and still thinks a lot about this buy, something tells me its not quite perfect.

I am actually thinking of returning this monitor using the 14 days return policy (denmark), and get the 245T instead (it should be just around the corner). I know it cost the double, but it has a S-PVA 8-bit panel and also a glossy bezel now (244T did not).

I am a little worried about doing this before any reviews can be found, but also if the 8800GTS can keep up in 1920x1200 resolution as the 226BW did so fine in 1680x1050.

Any opinions on this thought? I would be very glad to have some input!

http://www.engadget.com/2007/01/07/samsung-unveils-syncmaster-245t-275t-906bw-announces-us-relea/


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Damn this thing is down to $319 now at newegg with a $20 MIR making it $299. I wish I had held off on this Dell and gotten this monitor!
 
Has this monitor ANY little bit of input lag whatsoever? I just returned a Samy 215TW because of TERRIBLE input lag, and i don't want to repeat the experience....:mad:
 
Well I just returned the A panel to yet another Best Buy, and got another A instead. The backlight bleed wasnt as bad, but the the dithering effect was just as present as in my first A panel. I could live with it if it wasn't for that problem, and having a S and A right next to eachother would be unbearable as I would constantly be noticing the problem and getting very annoyed. I think I'll just be taking this one back and not exchanging it. My one S is good enough for now and maybe once all this crap is figured out I'll go get another.

I guess I should have just settled for the one dead pixel in my second S :)
 
Hey guys. I have the A panel as well and I have been trying to forever to get the dark areas of games such as oblivion to look good. Any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks!
 
Hey guys. I have the A panel as well and I have been trying to forever to get the dark areas of games such as oblivion to look good. Any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks!

Read my "settings" post on page 65. I have an A panel as well. Mine is looking awesome now, even in all the dark areas of Oblivion and Fear.
 
I wasn't able to capture the weird thing I was seeing on the A panel. It's more like vibration, it looked like the screen/pixels were shaking very rapidly. I tried swapping my DVI and power cables to make sure it was the monitor - it had no affect. I took other pictures with various brightness/contrast levels but honestly it didn't really change much in terms of what it looked like.
...would it be something like noisy dithering? Fire up a black to white gradient and look at the black/grey areas, if you would. It sounds like the thing I was getting. My black/greys were showing nearly black and drown, where the pixels would shift visibly.

Edit:
Ah, so you were getting the bad dithering. I had two A panels that had this and I couldn't stand it. :\
 
Has this monitor ANY little bit of input lag whatsoever? I just returned a Samy 215TW because of TERRIBLE input lag, and i don't want to repeat the experience....:mad:

I too have at one time returned a 215TW for input lag. I don't sense any on this monitor and I play CS:S quite regularly (so I'm probably pretty sensitive to lag).
 
Interesting, I just did this word for word and am presented with all this info:

Monitor On Time: 10Hr
Panel Ch. No.: 0 [Can't change this setting]
On Time: 10Hr
Cycle: 110

Auto Auto: On [Default] (or Off)
PixelShift: Off [Default] (or On)
Country: Worldwide (or Korean, Chinese, Japanese)

Scaler-MCU: Genesis
Panel Info.: AMLCD 220M1

Version: M-ME22W0BAa-1001
Checksum: FBC6


Not quite sure what to make out of the Monitor On Time information.

If anyone else does this and needs to get out of the Menu just turn the power off to the monitor and turn it back on.

Why my data (S panel) shows :

Monitor On Time: 0Hr
Panel Ch. No.: 0
On Time: 0Hr
Cycle: 33

I really don't understand it. I have been using it for 2 weeks. Why the "monitor on time" still shows 0Hr? Is there anything wrong with it?
 
using the nvidia control panel, I used the calibration tool to adjust my monitor. I also backed off the contrast to 44 in the control panel as well. Then, I set the monitor to brightness-40 and contrast to 75. This gave me much better results than the spyder configuration. Fear, Oblivion, and Stalker all look extremely kick ass now! Even in the dark areas, it looks awesome.

By the way, I have an A panel. You just have to take the time to adjust it. I think the key might be in your video card control panel. (at least for the nvidia people out there) Hope this helps.

I have an A panel as well, I do like the 40 brightness 75 contrast, but I did not change anything in my ATI control panel.
 
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