RGB 5050 LED Strips for lighting Home Theater speakers to look like AMC Prime.

Discussion in 'Home Theater PCs & Equipment' started by Archaea, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    I am going to model this backlit speaker layout in my home theater:
    upload_2018-9-5_10-58-47.png

    I'm soliciting ideas on how best to get this done. Making sure I'm not missing any cool features or ways to make this better or easier.

    I bought 13 JBL CBT 70j-1 speakers (the same speakers pictured above) for a 9.1.4 Dolby Atmos setup.
    upload_2018-9-5_11-1-10.png

    I did a proof of concept last night that turned out really good, IMO.

    upload_2018-9-5_11-20-57.jpeg

    upload_2018-9-5_11-21-29.jpeg


    To repeat this 13 times I need 22" of LED light per speaker. That is 22" x 13 = 286"

    286" / 12 = 24' of LED lighting.


    I'm considering using what I just tried which is RGB 5050 (300). Most of the controllers are only rated for 5M or 16', so I'll have to look specifically for a controller that's rated for 10M or 32'. I'd prefer using a controller that has music sync, selectable colors, and at power on turns back to the last setting used (so I'm not constantly turning on the controller to disco light). Amazon Alexa control is a bonus, Phone control would be acceptable, Infrared control would be acceptable.



    Any specific RGB controllers you'd recommend me evaluate?



    I was considering wiring a control distribution block/amp with four connectors and wiring all 13 speakers to the control block directly vs. daisy chaining all the speakers' LEDs. I think this would eliminate potential voltage drop by the end of the run (and subsequent color change or dimming) and also ease troubleshooting should one wire fail.



    Any ideas for a control/distribution block?



    As to the extension cords - it looks like there is RGB 4 wire extensions available on amazon for about $8 for 30 feet. While that's tolerable, I have tons of phone cord sitting in boxes and I wonder if 4 wire phone cord would work as extension cable? If a 16' cord is 60 watts, than a 2' cord should be 7.5 watts. 7.5 watts shouldn't require a very thick gauge wire at all? I'll probably need as much as 40 feet.



    Anything else I should be considering in this project?
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2018
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  2. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    Crosshairs
    Perhaps, I placed this thread in the wrong subforum? I chose electronics subforum, but didn't realize electronics was a subforum of case modding. If it would be better placed in another subforum - feel free to fix my mistake.
     
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  3. Algrim

    Algrim [H]ard|Gawd

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  4. pendragon1

    pendragon1 [H]ardForum Junkie

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  5. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    I'm all about cost savings. :) It's how I afforded the fancy speakers (I bought them used on ebay for less than half price they are new).

    I think I'll need pretty close to the full 100M instead of the 100Feet of wiring though. I've got to wire up 13 runs, some maybe as long as 40' Some probably < 10' --- depending on where I put the block.

    FWIW, I HATED using those little white connectors. I have some now. I haven't tried any of the fancier connectors - but I'm sure hoping they are easier. Those white cheap connectors A.) require you to strip off the rubber waterproofing to slide the contacts under (that's a task and a half in itself), and B.), barely fit over the water proof rubber to snap closed. and C) sliding the foil that holds the four color connectors under the contacts tends to wreck it.

    It took me quite a long time to wire up just over a half dozen of those connectors (I installed some cabinet lighting in the kitchen, and one strip under my kids bed, and a few pieces already in the home theater room). Sometimes I'd strip the rubber too low and scrape the metal, sometimes the white connectors would bust. I'm hoping the fancier, more expensive connectors which are supposed to be true press fit - supposedly no stripping of waterproofing rubber or wire sleeve needed - you just snap it into place, pull a bit, and it is supposed to pierce where it needs to making the connections. If it works, it will save me a lot of time and frustration in assembling this. Multiple hours I'll wager...

    HOWEVER, thank you for the suggestions! I'm always conscious (borderline obsessive) of trying to find the best deals on my projects, and I appreciate that you gave this adventure some attention and recommendations.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2018
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  6. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    Not fancy but I'll probably use this as a power distribution block
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ6Y3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    If I cut the source controller's output wire and fashion it's four wires to this block, then the other side of the block can hold the 13 red, green, blue, and ground leads too. That way each of the 22" LED strips are getting the same input voltage, and I'm not daisy chaining them speaker to speaker such that the last LED strips would end up dimmer than the first.
     
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  7. KazeoHin

    KazeoHin [H]ardness Supreme

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    watching thread because this looks awesome....
     
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  8. IdentityCrisis

    IdentityCrisis [H]Lite

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    That's a really cool effect, looks like you have a great home theater room.
     
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  9. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    Thank you, I should be getting all the parts this week from my Amazon order. It'll take me some time to get it all put together, but I'll update with pictures when it's complete, and speak to lessons learned that might save the next person some time. This is my home theater room thread at avsforum.
    https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...rchaea-s-multi-purpose-home-theater-room.html
     
  10. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    My last consideration I'm wrestling with is how to connect this LED light extension from each speaker to the run in the drywall in a cosmetically clean but still easy to detach manner. I couldn't find any RGB 4 pin keystones for a cosmetic wallplate anywhere.

    Any ideas?
     
  11. Riouken

    Riouken Limp Gawd

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    What about a recessed wall plate or a brushed wall plate? You could mount the box directly behind the LED connetor and that would allow the slack to slip back into the wall. If you wanted to take the speaker down you could just lift it up with the slack that you leave and then detach it.

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_13?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=resessed+wall+plate&sprefix=resessed+wall,aps,146&crid=2UA6GXE3P658C
     
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  12. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    I'm now thinking about using keystone wall plates.

    RJ11 (a phone jack) is four wires. RGB is four wires. I could use wallplates and keystone jacks to give it a nice finished look. Wire the LED out to a RJ11 connector and use a RJ11 keystone jack wall plate.

    How many watts is a RJ11 jack or phone cord good for over 12 volt? Each LED strip will be 22" which is about 7 watts at 12 volt. All the power doesn't come in over a single line - it comes over 3 lines for Red, Green, and Blue --- black wire is return though. I guess to be safe I could just use cat 6 keystones.

    I'm currently using these wallplates for my speaker terminals:
    https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-10...8&qid=1400622850&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+wall

    8a25fb5e_31XZZAB4N8L.jpg

    But I could easily swap to this:
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6729
    67291.jpg
    and these

    Keystone Speaker terminal jack - black - $1.51
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8434
    Keystone Speaker terminal jack - red - $1.51
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8436

    Leaving one keystone jack open for the connector of choice - either RJ11 or RJ45
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2018
  13. Algrim

    Algrim [H]ard|Gawd

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    Phone lines were originally designed to power telephones in addition to carrying a voice signal. After a little googling I came across a 1.5A per contact for RJ11 and other modular connectors. Using the age-old power formula: W = A x V, each connector should handle 18 W (1.5 x 12).
     
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  14. Archaea

    Archaea [H]ardForum Junkie

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    Just decided to go with Cat 6 keystones and cables as they are now more common and actually end up being cheaper. I think I've now picked up all the items I needed for this project. Just waiting for everything to arrive. I'll use Fusion black plastic spraypaint on the wallplate and banana jack keystones to make everything black to match my walls.

    attachment.png
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2018 at 2:07 PM
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  15. Outlaw85

    Outlaw85 Gawd

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    Very jealous. Will be following!