Quick Cooling Tip For Ivy

Cecil

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Been fighting the heat with Ivy since I got it like everyone else. Just using my H100 right now for initial testing. I was seeing how far I could get with no HT, and at 4.8Ghz 1.385Vcore, I was hitting 93C
I realised one core was way down at 77C though, so I figured Id better check the TIM.

I had done a simple dot in the middle, and boy was that a bad idea. Got out my spreader that came with a tube of TX-4. Spread out a nice thin, very even layer, the exact size as the contact area of the IHS. Now, hottest core is 68C, coolest is 62C.

So, quick tip is, dont do a dot in the middle. Spread out a very thin, and very even layer on your heatsink. Press/clamp/screw it down on the CPU first if its new to get that indentation of the IHS on the heatsink so you know what area exactly needs to be covered.

Remember that the Ivy ide is a long rectangle shape in the center of the IHS, so a dot wont get to the ends. A line might work, but you want as much contact as possible with the full IHS. Dont leave any not making good contact.
 
My temps seem ok but I focused on covering the die area. I will have to reapply thermal paste as you suggest to see if it helps lower temps.

Hope your tip works for my 3570k.
 
I've had multiple bad experiences using the spread method, I'll use the line method with average amount of paste (not too little or too much) until it fails me.

This video only made me stay away more from the spread method:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4

Yeah I know things Might change under heat and air bubbles won't be an issue, but IMO the heatsink pressure for spreading the paste just sounds right to properly fill the gaps.
 
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Uh, I thought that's how you're suppose to apply TIM to heatspreaders....
 
Whether you go drop, line, or smear, I think the key obviously is you need a very thin, very even coat.
 
I've had multiple bad experiences using the spread method, I'll use the line method with average amount of paste (not too little or too much) until it fails me.

This video only made me stay away more from the spread method:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4

Yeah I know things Might change under heat and air bubbles won't be an issue, but IMO the heatsink pressure for spreading the paste just sounds right to properly fill the gaps.

The problem with that vid, is he is using a flat piece of plastic. Most heatsinks are concave to match the curve on CPUs. If you lap your CPU then you could use something flat.

By spreading evenly on the heatsink, then slightly twisting the heatsink as you apply it, you get more overall coverage. Using the line or dot the edges of the CPU are not covered, which is nothing but air then. When spreading you might get a couple air pockets, but you still have more total area contact, and with a concave heatsink, youll have less air pockets then that video shows. Especially if spread thinly and evenly.

Ivy has a high heat condensity and needs more area of the IHS to transfer the heat. So if 2/3s of it is making contact with the heatsink, its not going to do as well as spreading and getting 4/5-9/10s or more of contact.
 
I was hoping for something more revolutionary. Really, a single case where spreading it got better temps than a line doesn't prove anything - maybe you just used too little paste the first time. I think the real tip here is, if you don't like your temps, try re-installing you cooling solution. Which has been good advice for a while now.
 
I was hoping for something more revolutionary. Really, a single case where spreading it got better temps than a line doesn't prove anything - maybe you just used too little paste the first time. I think the real tip here is, if you don't like your temps, try re-installing you cooling solution. Which has been good advice for a while now.

For the past couple generations, the general TIM advice was to put a dot in the middle (unless you have a direct heatpipe cooler). It works yeah, but on Ivy you really want full IHS contact. So taking the time to do a nice even spread just works better.

Thats why its called a "quick" tip ;)

If you really want to cool things down some more, pop off the IHS and re-TIM the die, and get an AC-X chiller.
 
Seems to have worked well for him, and his temps are much lower so kudos for him.

I still prefer the dot or thin line method, but honestly I cant say I've tried spreading. I've only ever "heard" spreading was the improper way, and I've never seen any real tests or tried it myself to see which method results in superior heat transfer.
 
You mean you guys don't "practice" a couple of times to make sure its being spread correctly by your heatsink? You know spread, or dot, or whatever, applying the heatsink, taking it off and looking to see how well the paste got applied?
 
Good advice. I will try this later today with my Intel® Core™ i5-3570K and H100 to see if I can bring the temperature down more.
 
The problem with that vid, is he is using a flat piece of plastic. Most heatsinks are concave to match the curve on CPUs. If you lap your CPU then you could use something flat.

By spreading evenly on the heatsink, then slightly twisting the heatsink as you apply it, you get more overall coverage. Using the line or dot the edges of the CPU are not covered, which is nothing but air then. When spreading you might get a couple air pockets, but you still have more total area contact, and with a concave heatsink, youll have less air pockets then that video shows. Especially if spread thinly and evenly.

Ivy has a high heat condensity and needs more area of the IHS to transfer the heat. So if 2/3s of it is making contact with the heatsink, its not going to do as well as spreading and getting 4/5-9/10s or more of contact.

Or maybe your HS wasnt making good contact the first time?
You never know.
 
You mean you guys don't "practice" a couple of times to make sure its being spread correctly by your heatsink? You know spread, or dot, or whatever, applying the heatsink, taking it off and looking to see how well the paste got applied?

No? Never?

If you remove the heatsink, you should remove and reapply the TIM.
 
You mean you guys don't "practice" a couple of times to make sure its being spread correctly by your heatsink? You know spread, or dot, or whatever, applying the heatsink, taking it off and looking to see how well the paste got applied?

No ive never done a practice install. I just check my temps after im done and if my temps are good im done. Only one time ever my temps were bad but I think it was due to the stock intel heatsink cause that thing was itty bitty.
 
You mean you guys don't "practice" a couple of times to make sure its being spread correctly by your heatsink? You know spread, or dot, or whatever, applying the heatsink, taking it off and looking to see how well the paste got applied?
Removing the heatsink just messes up the application, and you have to redo it anyway.
Or maybe your HS wasnt making good contact the first time?
You never know.

The H100 is pretty fool proof, the screws stop screwing when its on all the way.

Im a bencher and do about 15-30 CPU installs every week. For the most part, there isnt a difference in dot/line/spreading methods. At least until Ivy. The dot had spread width ways and left the edges of the IHS where the die is under them uncovered. So not only wasnt the IHS making the most contact it should, the area that wasnt making contact had the die under it.
 
This is the way I apply TIM that insures a thin even coat:

1. Clean the surfaces of the IHS and heatsink thoroughly. I use 100% isopropanol. Let dry completely.

2. Squeeze a dab of TIM the size of a half a grain of rice, no larger than a grain of rice, on the center surface of the IHS.

3. Wrap your index finger with clean plastic food wrap.

4. Use your plastic wrapped finger to spread out the TIM evenly on the IHS to the point where you can still see the metal underneath, but barely. Most IHS surfaces have a "grain" to them, like wood. Spread the TIM along the "grain" of the metal to fill in all the microscopic spaces on the surface.

5. When this is done, your plastic wrap should be well covered with excess TIM. Use that excess TIM on the plastic wrap to coat the surface of the heatsink contact, again along the "grain" if you see it. Again, the metal underneath should be just barely peeking through.

6. Throw away the plastic wrap for easy cleanup. Mate the heatsink to the IHS as usual. No need for any twisting motion to spread the TIM any further.

This method really allows fine control over the evenness of the TIM on the surfaces. Looking at the amount of TIM that sticks to the plastic in the end, you realize just how really little of it is required to cover both metal surfaces for optimal heat transfer.
 
^^ that's the way I've been spreading TIM for several years. Never experienced an issue using that method.
 
I've got some Noctua NT-H1 and they recommend the dollup in the center and using the heatsink to spread it out slightly.
Anyone have any feedback there?
 
I've got some Noctua NT-H1 and they recommend the dollup in the center and using the heatsink to spread it out slightly.
Anyone have any feedback there?

I did this with my NH-D14 and no problems so far. I even had to take the heatsink on/off twice during installation and did not bother re-applying the grease as I had not yet powered on the computer and the compound was still soft.
 
This is the way I apply TIM that insures a thin even coat:

I've been using this method too, it's actually the method the Arctic Silver peeps were recommending and they had a video demonstrating it. That's how ive installed all my heatsinks since my Swifttech MC462A
 
You may be a n00b in this forum, but your idea shows good thinking. I cannot help but be thankful I have been reading over various posts as there are such gems of 411 like this floating around.

I gets smarter'n otherz by readin dere werdz o' wizdum. << This was just a little joke, but in all seriousness, the posts like yours make being on this forum and reading, time well spent.

Thanks to you.

Best Regards,
RudeRedDog :)

This is the way I apply TIM that insures a thin even coat:

1. Clean the surfaces of the IHS and heatsink thoroughly. I use 100% isopropanol. Let dry completely.

2. Squeeze a dab of TIM the size of a half a grain of rice, no larger than a grain of rice, on the center surface of the IHS.

3. Wrap your index finger with clean plastic food wrap.

4. Use your plastic wrapped finger to spread out the TIM evenly on the IHS to the point where you can still see the metal underneath, but barely. Most IHS surfaces have a "grain" to them, like wood. Spread the TIM along the "grain" of the metal to fill in all the microscopic spaces on the surface.

5. When this is done, your plastic wrap should be well covered with excess TIM. Use that excess TIM on the plastic wrap to coat the surface of the heatsink contact, again along the "grain" if you see it. Again, the metal underneath should be just barely peeking through.

6. Throw away the plastic wrap for easy cleanup. Mate the heatsink to the IHS as usual. No need for any twisting motion to spread the TIM any further.

This method really allows fine control over the evenness of the TIM on the surfaces. Looking at the amount of TIM that sticks to the plastic in the end, you realize just how really little of it is required to cover both metal surfaces for optimal heat transfer.
 
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