Question about cheap radiators.

[Streiw]

I've been doing a lot of research on mixing aluminum and copper. I would prefer not to do it, as I want to minimize corrosion.
The problem I'm running into is that all of the cheap radiators on eBay are AL.


I want to cheaply experiment with a custom loop on an old LGA 771 1U server, but I don't want to spend $40 on a copper radiator unless absolutely necessary.

What are my options?

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

You could keep it all aluminum and use a basic aluminum CPU block as well.

Honestly, when it comes to the potential of water winding up on my components, I don't trust any of the cheap stuff on eBay, copper or Aluminum. I only buy from the well known water cooling brands.

 

[silent-circuit]

How big a rad do you need? I've got an old 2x120 I could part with cheap. Don't remember what brand, but it wasn't Ebay junk.

 

[Streiw]

How big a rad do you need? I've got an old 2x120 I could part with cheap. Don't remember what brand, but it wasn't Ebay junk.

Something capable of cooling two 95w C2Q Xeons. Nothing over kill, just something to cut on teeth on water cooling with before I do a proper loop in my rig. Send me a PM, shipping would be to 30501.

You could keep it all aluminum and use a basic aluminum CPU block as well.

Honestly, when it comes to the potential of water winding up on my components, I don't trust any of the cheap stuff on eBay, copper or Aluminum. I only buy from the well known water cooling brands.

I'll go name brand when I do a proper loop on my system. I know this eBay stuff is crap, but it's more of a learning tool than anything. If I fuck up a $50 server, no harm done. Can't say the same thing about my gaming rig, though.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I'll go name brand when I do a proper loop on my system. I know this eBay stuff is crap, but it's more of a learning tool than anything. If I fuck up a $50 server, no harm done. Can't say the same thing about my gaming rig, though.

Well, on the flip side then, you could just not worry about galvanic corrosion and mixed metals at all.

If it's only intended to be a short term test, just do it. Sure mixed metals will corrode over time, but they won't blow up over night.

 

[Erasmus354]

Well, on the flip side then, you could just not worry about galvanic corrosion and mixed metals at all.

If it's only intended to be a short term test, just do it. Sure mixed metals will corrode over time, but they won't blow up over night.

Yep, just make sure you keep an eye on it, the particulates from the corrosion can clog the blocks and really mess with the cooling. You will have to clean everything very well afterwards if you reuse it as well.

 

[RazorWind]

I say just do your gaming rig. Start with just the CPU and soft tubing.

If what you're worried about is leaks, order the components you need to fit your CPU and case, and some extra tubing, and practice assembling the fittings and filling the loop outside of the case first.

I've had really good luck with Primochill's 3/8"ID/5/8" OD tubing and XSPC's compression fittings.

Otherwise, as the others say, if you're just doing this to practice assembling things, don't worry about mixing metals - you likely won't have it assembled for long enough for corrosion to become an issue. If you're super anal and just can't make yourself do that, use a coolant that is designed for mixed metal systems, such as ethylene glycol antifreeze.

 

[Streiw]

Well, on the flip side then, you could just not worry about galvanic corrosion and mixed metals at all.

If it's only intended to be a short term test, just do it. Sure mixed metals will corrode over time, but they won't blow up over night.

It'll be short term, but it'll also be running 24/7 to see how well the eBay crap holds up.

Yep, just make sure you keep an eye on it, the particulates from the corrosion can clog the blocks and really mess with the cooling. You will have to clean everything very well afterwards if you reuse it as well.

Would you say it's a rapid clogging?

I say just do your gaming rig. Start with just the CPU and soft tubing.

If what you're worried about is leaks, order the components you need to fit your CPU and case, and some extra tubing, and practice assembling the fittings and filling the loop outside of the case first.

I've had really good luck with Primochill's 3/8"ID/5/8" OD tubing and XSPC's compression fittings.

Otherwise, as the others say, if you're just doing this to practice assembling things, don't worry about mixing metals - you likely won't have it assembled for long enough for corrosion to become an issue. If you're super anal and just can't make yourself do that, use a coolant that is designed for mixed metal systems, such as ethylene glycol antifreeze.

I've thought about anti-freeze, how well does it inhibit corrosion?

 

[RazorWind]

I've thought about anti-freeze, how well does it inhibit corrosion?

Pretty well. Antifreeze is used in car engines that reach 200+ degrees celsius on a regular basis. It usually has a change interval of at least two years in systems that commonly include multiple different kinds of metals, including aluminum, brass, cast iron and steel.

For what you're going to do, the corrosion resistance of ordinary green antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water is more than enough. The other types, such BMW's blue variety, or Toyotas red and pink varieties are even more resistant (but they cost $25 instead of $12 per gallon).

 

[Erasmus354]

Pretty well. Antifreeze is used in car engines that reach 200+ degrees celsius on a regular basis. It usually has a change interval of at least two years in systems that commonly include multiple different kinds of metals, including aluminum, brass, cast iron and steel.

For what you're going to do, the corrosion resistance of ordinary green antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water is more than enough. The other types, such BMW's blue variety, or Toyotas red and pink varieties are even more resistant (but they cost $25 instead of $12 per gallon).

50 50 is a high mixture for watercooling. Usually do more of a 90 10 or 85 15 mixture.

The corrosion will be slow. You probably wont see much for the first month or two. However, I really dont have much personal experience with it because I have always avoided mixed metals. Just check on things once a month should be fine.

 

[Streiw]

Pretty well. Antifreeze is used in car engines that reach 200+ degrees celsius on a regular basis. It usually has a change interval of at least two years in systems that commonly include multiple different kinds of metals, including aluminum, brass, cast iron and steel.

For what you're going to do, the corrosion resistance of ordinary green antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water is more than enough. The other types, such BMW's blue variety, or Toyotas red and pink varieties are even more resistant (but they cost $25 instead of $12 per gallon).

50 50 is a high mixture for watercooling. Usually do more of a 90 10 or 85 15 mixture.

The corrosion will be slow. You probably wont see much for the first month or two. However, I really dont have much personal experience with it because I have always avoided mixed metals. Just check on things once a month should be fine.

Screw it, I'll go with an AL rad. I guess that's one of the benefits of working at a car dealership -- cheap coolant.

 

[Arcygenical]

Keep the radiator electrically isolated from ALL common ground points (use nylon washers and screws) and you won't have corrosion.

It's also worth noting that those cheap radiators have less cooling capacity. You're looking at around 100w per 120mm fan space, compared to coppers 130w @ 1000rpm, medium static pressure.

Get a cheap danger den black ice pro 2. You can find clones on ebay. Dual 120 copper g 1/4 radiators run 40$.

 

[rsq]

Keep the radiator electrically isolated from ALL common ground points (use nylon washers and screws) and you won't have corrosion.

Keep in mind that the coolant itself can present a conductive path to the other components which may very well be grounded.

This only works if the coolant is non-conductive. These coolants are expensive to such a degree that it is maybe cheaper to buy the copper rad and use distilled water instead.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

This only works if the coolant is non-conductive. These coolants are expensive to such a degree that it is maybe cheaper to buy the copper rad and use distilled water instead.

Not only that, but non-conductive coolants quickly pick up ions from the loop and become conductive over time, so in order for this to work, you'd ahve to change your coolants frequently.

 

[Nobu]

Most fittings are bare or nickle-plated brass, something else to keep in mind if you'll have al in your loop. You can, of course, get plastic fittings pretty cheaply.

 

[thesmokingman]

Something capable of cooling two 95w C2Q Xeons. Nothing over kill, just something to cut on teeth on water cooling with before I do a proper loop in my rig. Send me a PM, shipping would be to 30501.



I'll go name brand when I do a proper loop on my system. I know this eBay stuff is crap, but it's more of a learning tool than anything. If I fuck up a $50 server, no harm done. Can't say the same thing about my gaming rig, though.

Get a proper rad, go used etc. Mixing alu is dumb if you can avoid it. Hell you can buy cheapo Swiftech rads for cost of a case and a half of beer. There's no reason to get cheap ebay alu rads. You'll only turn yourself off of water by the bad experiences.

 

[eclypse]

I will add that my first rad was an all aluminum rad.. back when water cooling first came about. Killed everything and it was $450 I believe for the water cooling all for nothing in the end. All tossed in the trash!!

Do the do it!

 

[eclypse]

Get a proper rad, go used etc. Mixing alu is dumb if you can avoid it. Hell you can buy cheapo Swiftech rads for cost of a case and a half of beer. There's no reason to get cheap ebay alu rads. You'll only turn yourself off of water by the bad experiences.

Yeah I see swiftech rad for dirt cheap like $50 for a dual 120 rad. Don't mess with mixing the metals.

 

[thesmokingman]

Yeah I see swiftech rad for dirt cheap like $50 for a dual 120 rad. Don't mess with mixing the metals.

I'm selling two mcr320s for 35 ea. They are so cheap used, no point to going alu.