Pump of choice?

piako

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What's the current "pump of choice?" :) I have a liang DDC-2TPMP but I have to return it to DD because it's not working correctly only in about 3 mo use. related thread. I want to go with something more reliable and quieter.
 
Well a lot of people will say the Laing DDC-2 is a good pump. However I found my Laing DDC-2 (18w) to be a bit noisy specially when compared to my Laing DDC-1 (10w). Furthermore, both these models can easily overheat if not mounted properly - for example, if you put it flat down on a non-metal surface that prevents heat from escaping (i.e. like petra gel pads) it can eventually overheat and die.

Although some may say this is a downgrade, my Laing D5-Vario is dependable (I'm running it 24/7) and more quiet when I run it at a speed of 3 and I'm happy with it.
 
The Laing DDC pump is the champ and the ideal pump according to Cathar.

It's small, it's powerful, it's heat dump isn't too bad. The only drawback is its reliability. However, most that do go bad, will go bad almost immediately within the first few hours/days of use, so you'll know relatively soon if you'll have to exchange it. Some have been unlucky and gotten bad DDC's. I've bought 5 over the years and haven't had a problem at all.
 
Find a good old DDC1 with Alphacool top and your set. Depending on your needs you could also get a Aquastream and run it at 70mhz for some good cooling too.
 
An Eheim, just because it's quiet and reliable.

DDC-2 is an unreliable, noisy piece of shit that vibrates more than a dildo.
 
Well a lot of people will say the Laing DDC-2 is a good pump. However I found my Laing DDC-2 (18w) to be a bit noisy specially when compared to my Laing DDC-1 (10w). Furthermore, both these models can easily overheat if not mounted properly - for example, if you put it flat down on a non-metal surface that prevents heat from escaping (i.e. like petra gel pads) it can eventually overheat and die.

Although some may say this is a downgrade, my Laing D5-Vario is dependable (I'm running it 24/7) and more quiet when I run it at a speed of 3 and I'm happy with it.

The pump wont overheat, it will dump heat into the water.
 
Depending on the application the Aquastream pump is a really good pump. It is built on the Eheim 1046 which is world renowned for being quiet and ultra reliable. Hell the pump is so reliable it is hard to find stores that will stock the parts! With the addition of the controller board, which allows you to easily OC the pump, you can almost reach DDC capability. At around 70 Hz clock rate the pump has over 2 meters of head, 8 watts of power, and about twice the flow of the 1046.

When is the last time you heard of an Eheim pump failure? Google it for grins and good luck finding anything. Then Google Laing pump failures :p

These Laing pumps were never designed to be on 24/7. They were designed to be used in motor homes and RV's to pump water from the reservoir to the spigot.
 
I liked my Iwaki, but it was much too powerful. The innovatek and aquacomputer versions of the Eheim 1046 are 12v, and rock solid (though I have only tried the innovatek version. I am newly enjoying the Hydor L25, which is super quiet, but AC only. The AC version of the 1046 is fantastic also, and replacement parts are cheap should you accidentally break a ceramic shaft like I did.

As for the DDC--- They are designed for electronics cooling, but on the 5 that I have, 2 have slightly imbalanced impellers. They are noisy and vibrate a bit.

Stay away from thermaltake pumps.

Anyone have any experience with the Bosch pump found in the Corsair Hydrocool???
 
Depending on the application the Aquastream pump is a really good pump. It is built on the Eheim 1046 which is world renowned for being quiet and ultra reliable. Hell the pump is so reliable it is hard to find stores that will stock the parts! With the addition of the controller board, which allows you to easily OC the pump, you can almost reach DDC capability. At around 70 Hz clock rate the pump has over 2 meters of head, 8 watts of power, and about twice the flow of the 1046.

When is the last time you heard of an Eheim pump failure? Google it for grins and good luck finding anything. Then Google Laing pump failures :p

These Laing pumps were never designed to be on 24/7. They were designed to be used in motor homes and RV's to pump water from the reservoir to the spigot.
Then fine, use a D5/MCP655. Reliable, can be as quiet as you want or one of the most powerful pumps on the market, depending on what you actually want. And it's cheaper and smaller than an Aquastream + controller board (even after the D5 price increase). (p.s. Don't forget Aquastream fittings. That's another $7-$10)

And, sorry TN, your facts are off. Using the 500 L/H flow and 2.1m max head numbers, it's far behind a DDC. An original DDC has nearly twice as much head, and modified the old school way (not even with a manufactured top, which increases the head as well) will also have 50% more flow:

image10big.gif


Not to mention DDC1+/DDC2 numbers, which are even higher.
 
I found this on the Laing website and it doesn't look like the same as the Swiftech version. :confused:

The keyword is almost (subjective) and I wasn't inferring the technical features, but it's real world use. The controller board can be mounted anywhere and the basic pump is smaller than the D5, no?


LaingDDCpumpPQ.jpg





And another problem with the DDC:




LaingDDCpumpspecs.jpg
 
I found this on the Laing website and it doesn't look like the same as the Swiftech version. :confused:

The keyword is almost (subjective) and I wasn't inferring the technical features, but it's real world use. The controller board can be mounted anywhere and the basic pump is smaller than the D5, no?


LaingDDCpumpPQ.jpg





And another problem with the DDC:




LaingDDCpumpspecs.jpg


How is the aluminum oxide a problem? It's used to seal aluminum parts (by AC even) and other metals to prevent them from reacting galvanically with other metals so, please, elaborate on why this is a problem.
 
D5/MCP655, the slight extra heat dump over the DDC2 is minimal at best and when you're running a triple radiator the extra heat doesn't even come into play. Then you add in the fact that the pump is much more reliable, there's no question as to which one I'm going to keep using, the thing has been running 24/7 from the day that they were released ...........:D
 
How is the aluminum oxide a problem? It's used to seal aluminum parts (by AC even) and other metals to prevent them from reacting galvanically with other metals so, please, elaborate on why this is a problem.

Absolutely correct!

It isn't a problem. :D
 
Absolutely correct!

It isn't a problem. :D

As we're discussing in another thread

A hunk of electircally isolated Aluminum oxide != electrically grounded anodized aluminum.

You're comparing something like a silver waterblock to a silver-electroplated copper waterblock...

If the silver wears away in the first case, It's not going to expose any copper, in the 2nd case, it will.

Not that copper's a problem or anything, I'm just giving another example (like, say you were using vinegar in your loop :p).
 
oddly enough Ive never had an issue with Innovateks anodizing..but I have had problems with D-tek's never tried Danger Den as ive always owned their lexan tops and brass tops.
 
oddly enough Ive never had an issue with Innovateks anodizing..but I have had problems with D-tek's never tried Danger Den as ive always owned their lexan tops and brass tops.

Most European parts use a nicer grade of anodization... AC, Innovatek and others all use a high quality double thick anodized surface.
 
I've been using my swiftech mcp355 with no problems. it seems the ddc, ddc2 tend to fail more when people use after-market tops, not sure if it's true, just something i heard.
 
Most European parts use a nicer grade of anodization... AC, Innovatek and others all use a high quality double thick anodized surface.

Like Shoggy said, AC uses a company whose primary work is in the medical field and charges 5-7 Euro's per item. The local yokel plater down the street from them only charges 0.5 Euro, but quality is a major issue so they stick with the high quality anodizing process. D-Tek must use the plater down the street from Aqua Computer. :eek: ;)
 
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