Arcygenical
Fully [H]
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- Jun 10, 2005
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- 25,066
Really nice work Warmace, keep it up!
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Project: Gr1zz
- Thread starter WarMace
- Start date
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
3 Days and 23 Hours to go. I'm really cutting it close and feel I am too far behind. Time to pull out my ultimate trump card, Vacation time from work!
The flanges on the case door was hitting the HDD's when trying to install the door, so I cut them out and repainted.
Cut some notches out of the internal baffle for wire routing.
I also cut a notch out of the crossflow fan for the video power routing.
One of the requirements was to keep the PC serviceable, I did not like how many steps were required to remove the HDD's, so I threw in some nice black thumbscrews.
All the scratches you see only show up under a flash and are invisible to the naked eye BTW.
The lid still has a tiny little warp from my homebrew bending job.
So I put a couple tiny notches into it for the lid to slip into so it is not crooked come time for final photos.
One of the downsides to building a custom case is I have to completely tear it down every time I cut or drill the frame. Hopefully this is the last time.
The reason for this is because I cannot spare the entire case for 2-4 days while the sides are painted. So in a last minute decision I decided to remove the lid so I could send the Lid and 2 sides to be painted, and keep the frame to work on.
The flanges on the case door was hitting the HDD's when trying to install the door, so I cut them out and repainted.
Cut some notches out of the internal baffle for wire routing.
I also cut a notch out of the crossflow fan for the video power routing.
One of the requirements was to keep the PC serviceable, I did not like how many steps were required to remove the HDD's, so I threw in some nice black thumbscrews.
All the scratches you see only show up under a flash and are invisible to the naked eye BTW.
The lid still has a tiny little warp from my homebrew bending job.
So I put a couple tiny notches into it for the lid to slip into so it is not crooked come time for final photos.
One of the downsides to building a custom case is I have to completely tear it down every time I cut or drill the frame. Hopefully this is the last time.
The reason for this is because I cannot spare the entire case for 2-4 days while the sides are painted. So in a last minute decision I decided to remove the lid so I could send the Lid and 2 sides to be painted, and keep the frame to work on.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
It was asked in another thread how to cutout our remove a rivet. So I thought I could make a short and sweet picture tutorial.
First you guesstimate the correct size drill bit. Too small and It wont come off, but you can safely try the next size up. Too big and you will accidentally increase the size of the hole.
As perfectively centered as possible, you want to drill out the core of the rivet. And sometimes it will fall off, other times you may need to grab the back side of the rivet with some pliers to break it free.
Rivets are usually a soft metal and not too tough, If you go too fast you could have an accident. If anyone happens to find the other half of my drill bit, please let me know
To replace the rivets you could use a tiny nut and bolt like me, or the more common method is to buy a rivet gun, their usually $30US at most hardware stores and sometimes come with a small assortment of rivets.
First you guesstimate the correct size drill bit. Too small and It wont come off, but you can safely try the next size up. Too big and you will accidentally increase the size of the hole.
As perfectively centered as possible, you want to drill out the core of the rivet. And sometimes it will fall off, other times you may need to grab the back side of the rivet with some pliers to break it free.
Rivets are usually a soft metal and not too tough, If you go too fast you could have an accident. If anyone happens to find the other half of my drill bit, please let me know
To replace the rivets you could use a tiny nut and bolt like me, or the more common method is to buy a rivet gun, their usually $30US at most hardware stores and sometimes come with a small assortment of rivets.
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- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,173
rawr, keep this going bro.... 3 days left, I know you can do it, cannot wait to see this final outcome, this is very awesome
Willsonman
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,195
Lookin good... dont forget NOT to sleep in addition to time off work. That no fear energy soda keeps be going on my double shifts through the night at UPS.
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
The top has been removed, I should have done this a long time ago.
Gave it a coat of paint and reinforced the front right pillar where I nearly sheared it off making a slot for the fan controller PCB (you can see this in the above picture).
I'm getting ready to mount the radiator and I know once I do it wont easily come out for a long while, so I scavenged a couple 150mm fan grilles for the inside and Ill mount the outside ones when I get around to ordering a couple.
Temperature gauge needed to be painted, but there was no way in hell i could mask that off, so I did the next best thing.
Fine point Sharpie to the rescue! It looks nice and even. And touch ups are a breeze.
Well I did not end up buying the button I needed to remotely mount the eject button for the Burner, I still plan on doing it soon, but this is one of the first items that has been pushed out to after the Lan party in order to meet the deadline. So I peel back the protective sheet and some very careful last minute deburring before paint.
Couple coats of flat black on the backside of the clear Lexan.
Even I doubted how good this piece would end up coming out, it looks AWESOME! The black is so deep and the panel is nice and shiny.
Edit: I forgot to mention all the little plastic parts were baked in the toaster oven overnight after they were dry enough to move inside. For a better bond.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
The Instrument panel had to be angled at the bottom. Without a proper flat sanding surface I carefully used a cutting bit a while ago. Needless to say it did not look so hot.
So I taped it off to give it a nicer finish. And a straighter edge.
The Instrument panel is done (for now) so I started building it up for the last time before the show. I started by protecting potential wear spots with masking tape so they wont wear a hole in the paint, and then mounted the PDA.
Fast forward, Everything added. Wiring will be fun.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
3 Days, 19 Hours
Before the body shop would take the panels, he asked us to prep them. By hand the sanding was uneven, so we needed something...
Something Special...
I present to you, The Ghetto Sanding Block!
No description needed. The pictures speak for themselves.
It still took a long time, but at least it sped things up.
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- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,173
w00t, go go 3.5" hdd to the rescue! Make sure you post that in ghetto mods
Make sure you post that in ghetto mods
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
Willsonman
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,195
you do know they have sanding blocks at wal-mart for like $2.
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
Dropped the sides off at my Uncle's Body shop. Took me an entire evening to drive there and hang out with him. After a Beer and a promise to get him a CD-Burner installed on his PC I was good to go. I had a hard time picking out the color for a number of reasons.
My uncle has a setup to reproduce any color painted on a automobile this decade. I thumbed through a bunch of sample books and found something nice.
It was hard to choose because I wanted something that would stand out at LAN party's, yet not stick out like a sore thumb in my office.
I picked out a Dark Grey Metallic that shines brownish in the sun (and under a flash). Then for a little flair, I think we will add a stripe. I hope it looks good all together. I am worrying that the bright aluminum grille will not look like it belongs.
Now It would be safe to call it "Go Time". The frame is finally done with the cutting and painting. I figure I will start with the wheels, and work my way up, making adjustments as needed.
Dreaded chrome.
Here is the first round of parts to get the chrome paint.
A couple coats and let it dry a little in the sun, then move to the toaster oven to bake.
The chrome Sucked! And is not the impression I got from the cap on the can. Its barely silver, its more a light grey, and through the plexi you can see the issue somewhat. Seems the chemical residue left behind from the protective plastic coating made it setup funny. Without getting into guessing what went wrong, I need to move on. And test before i paint next time....
Ill just bolt it on and remake it in black If I have time. Because the black was really nice.
I rebuilt the chiller with fresh thermal compound after a vinegar soak. It works just O.K. in its current form, and over time this will be a part that received updates as I find better parts. Check out the new DD High flow barbs!
I over estimated the space where I was going to mount the chiller, so I moved it somewhere else that would meet its special needs. The upper unused PSU bay. But for that I needed to remake the plexi cover with an aluminum one to hold the weight.
I dont care for the gaps around the sides, but it was needed to pass the waterblock through. I may dress it up a little but for now, it is good and sturdy.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
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- 963
I had to ask how to do this, so I figured I would write up a tutorial for the next guy.
Searchable text: (This is how to install a digital temperature sensor into my water liquid cooling loop system)
Materials needed:
You can get a temp sensor Here for pretty cheap.
You start by building up a ball of hot glue a little ways up the sensor. Keep in mind your waterproofing it so you want to get it in between the two wires and seal where the heat shrink meets the sensor.
Place the started ball into the leg of the T-Line to the desired depth and slowly fill-er-up with glue. I did it in one shot, but next time i may do it in layers and let it cool, to prevent gaps from it shrinking while cooling.
Here you see it in the flow of water a bit more than I planned, but it is flimsy enough to let the water pass.
Done! It is inline and ready for action.
Searchable text: (This is how to install a digital temperature sensor into my water liquid cooling loop system)
Materials needed:
- Digital Temp Sensor
- T-Line
- Hot Glue Gun
You can get a temp sensor Here for pretty cheap.
You start by building up a ball of hot glue a little ways up the sensor. Keep in mind your waterproofing it so you want to get it in between the two wires and seal where the heat shrink meets the sensor.
Place the started ball into the leg of the T-Line to the desired depth and slowly fill-er-up with glue. I did it in one shot, but next time i may do it in layers and let it cool, to prevent gaps from it shrinking while cooling.
Here you see it in the flow of water a bit more than I planned, but it is flimsy enough to let the water pass.
Done! It is inline and ready for action.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
Started placing finished parts into the case one by one, making any last minute fixes as nessisiary.
Had to use boiling water to get the 3/8ID tubing over the 1/2ID barbs. What a PITA that is. Im definitially going 1/2id tubing on any hose that needs replacement.
Its tight in here and I am starting to see how all of my little ideas fit togeather. Some not as well as others, but those are the brakes. Some things I plan on changing after the party.
Here is how it looks almost all togeather. A nice clean Mobo chamber, and my extra wires wound nicely in coils under the baffel. Time to add the coolent.
I dont have photos yet, but the coolent is becoming the bigest pain, I found 2 leaks so far, both barbs on the radiator trickle coolant. In the morning Ill buy some teflon tape and a better wrench to get them on nice and solid. Undoing the really tight tubing is difficult and I do not have enough spare to redo it so I cannot cut any lines. I am definitially going 1/2 next round.
Also as soon as I poured the first cup of coolent into the line it is filled with little clowdy chunks that kind of resemble a piece of bread that fell into the water. It is coming from the radiator, so It looks like I will have to flush it a couple times.
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- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,173
awesome job non-the-less bro! Cannot wait to see this.... in 2 days
Cannot wait to see this.... in 2 days
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
I don't know how much I'm going to Pwn at the party, I haven't touched a game in almost a month due to this build. But I will have a blast, especially since I will have 2 cases of redbull!
2 days and a few hours to go.
Still having issues with the water cooling.
First there is the bread stuff.
Forcing me to fill and flush a few times.
Then there is the persistent leak from the radiator. (no pics, its just a dribble) But its enough to cause me to stop working until I fix it.
If you cant guess I took the rest of the week off to get this done on time. This is good because my Uncle finished the sides, and its a 90 min' ride to his shop each way. He had to zink them because they were aluminum, then 2 coats color and 2 coats clear. A masterful job!
I got Teflon tape to seal up the leaky plastic threads.
It fixed one of them, the other still dribbles. Now I'm frustrated. Theres no way to mail order metal barbs in time, so this calls for drastic measures. I super glue a seal around the last leaky barb. The only reason I am writing this update, is because I'm waiting for the seal to setup.
2 days and a few hours to go.
Still having issues with the water cooling.
First there is the bread stuff.
Forcing me to fill and flush a few times.
Then there is the persistent leak from the radiator. (no pics, its just a dribble) But its enough to cause me to stop working until I fix it.
If you cant guess I took the rest of the week off to get this done on time. This is good because my Uncle finished the sides, and its a 90 min' ride to his shop each way. He had to zink them because they were aluminum, then 2 coats color and 2 coats clear. A masterful job!
I got Teflon tape to seal up the leaky plastic threads.
It fixed one of them, the other still dribbles. Now I'm frustrated. Theres no way to mail order metal barbs in time, so this calls for drastic measures. I super glue a seal around the last leaky barb. The only reason I am writing this update, is because I'm waiting for the seal to setup.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
No leaks!
Ill post again when i have more to report, untill then, see you in the A.M.
Ill post again when i have more to report, untill then, see you in the A.M.
Think pwnage...think dead bodies of opponents lying on the floor...think L33T.
(No I am not a terrorist.)
Emission
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2005
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- 4,420
I love that cereal!
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,173
the case awesome, the pix fiddyowns keeps coming up with are hysterical. all in all good thread!
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
Ok, heres the problem. I needed to constantly drain and refill the system to flush out all the chunks, and with only 1 t-line it was not draining. Some people use 2 t-lines to break the vaccume in the lines to allow easy draining. But there is no way to get one in 2 days. So I looked around the local hardware store and this is what I came up with.
This homemade bleed valve does the job and my only complaints is I forgot to paint it before installing, and its a bit bulky. But an easy swapout for a proper T-Line in the future.
ProTip: When looking around hardware stores for barbs and stuff all the stuff in plumbing is super low flow and overpriced. ($4 for a t-line). So I discovered a little gem, the underground sprinkler section has a modest selection of high flow parts.
Current status is I'm back on track to building up the PC. The liquid is not green, it just looks that way with all the air in the lines. It is a nice light blue.
This homemade bleed valve does the job and my only complaints is I forgot to paint it before installing, and its a bit bulky. But an easy swapout for a proper T-Line in the future.
ProTip: When looking around hardware stores for barbs and stuff all the stuff in plumbing is super low flow and overpriced. ($4 for a t-line). So I discovered a little gem, the underground sprinkler section has a modest selection of high flow parts.
Current status is I'm back on track to building up the PC. The liquid is not green, it just looks that way with all the air in the lines. It is a nice light blue.
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WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
I have it together just enough to boot, so I am taking a detour to make sure the hardware still works. Cross your fingers.
1 1/2 days to go.
1 1/2 days to go.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,173
*in a melodious tone*
ONE and a half days left till warmace loses his mind
ONE and a half days of eating rasberry zingers
ONE and a half days that things can go in a bind
ONE and a half days to cross our fingers
BRING ON THE STORRRRRRRRMMMMMMMM (screamed like ACDC)
okay, anyway, enough lameness, this is a rocken job dude!
ONE and a half days left till warmace loses his mind
ONE and a half days of eating rasberry zingers
ONE and a half days that things can go in a bind
ONE and a half days to cross our fingers
BRING ON THE STORRRRRRRRMMMMMMMM (screamed like ACDC)
okay, anyway, enough lameness, this is a rocken job dude!
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
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- 963
Ok it boots, just not into windows.
Spinrite says the disk is good, so im reinstalling windows right now.
While that is installing, I am installing a couple parts. The lower baffel needs a piece cut out of it because I moved the pump, so I am going to start that, then it should be ready for paint.
Its a bit muggy outside, so I may sneak into the boiler room and spray it there.
Spinrite says the disk is good, so im reinstalling windows right now.
While that is installing, I am installing a couple parts. The lower baffel needs a piece cut out of it because I moved the pump, so I am going to start that, then it should be ready for paint.
Its a bit muggy outside, so I may sneak into the boiler room and spray it there.
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
Had to install the top window before reinstalling the top.
It was tough to reinstall, but once it was back on it felt good to be this far along.
Before I pulled the PC into the office to double check it still worked, I hooked up everything and threw on the Right door to keep it tidy. Looks Hot!
It Boots!
Had to make a long cut into the inside baffel to fit it around the pump.
Painted it. Baked it to speed drying, plus it is really damp outside.
Installing windows right now.....
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DthInd
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2000
- Messages
- 2,984
Awesome Mod !!!!
Viperlover
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2006
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- 631
I want more pics of the whole thing at all angles. Looks great.
WarMace
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2004
- Messages
- 963
You will get all the photos you ask for. I doubt I can find any nekkid girlss to pose with it though.
I'd settle for bikini shots.. as long as it isn't you.You will get all the photos you ask for. I doubt I can find any nekkid girlss to pose with it though.
- JT