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"Polishing" Aluminum"

G

Ghent915

Gawd
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
974
Hey guys.
I was wondering if you had a specific technique to give Aluminium a nice, "Polished" look. I got to staring at my case today, and thought that a few polished bits on it would look quite spiffy.

Thanks in advance
-Ghent
 
Not to hijack your thread or anything, but I too am looking for something similar. Actually I was wondering if anyone knows what I need in order to remove some light scratches from my aluminum case as well.
 
Sand paper 220 to 1000 grit. Buffer duh. Compond. TIME. But your case is going to be hard to do try going over the case with a S.O.S. pad if that does not work sand it with 800 or 1000.
 
I pretty sure the aluminum will oxidize so you would need to apply a clear coat finish to keep it shiny.
 
i would actually go to 1500-2000 grit, and yes clearcoat is almost a must. it will take some on the shineyness (word?) away.
 
Well mothers and some other brands make stuff you can rub on, and it keeps the metal from Oxodizing.
 

Someone else was kind enough to send me this info on this subject. So I will pass it on to you have fun good and luck.


For the polish finish on aluminum:
First choose a piece that dosn't have deep scratch on it, that would save a lots of hard work later to get the mirror finish.

Second: Do all your mods on it first before polishing. Including all the cutting and all the pieces you on top of it. I mean put the final assembly pieces together, till you are happy with the whole thing, then take them off to the polish stage.

It's important to cover the pieces with tapes while working on them. I usually cut with a jigsaw, use different files to get to the lines and shapes. If you need more info in cutting, just send me a PM on that.

On to the finish: I would start with a 320/400 sand paper, first sand down hard to get a even surface, use a rubber sanding block would help on this process. Before go to next step, use the same paper, but light pressure to do a final "rob" down to get rid of some of the deeper sanding marks.

Next: wet sand it with 800 grids. Do it under running tap water, with the same hard and light process like the last step. At this point, the aluminum should turn 'dark' color, when tilt it and look under the light, it should likes like a mirror. If I see scratches, sand it more.

Next: wet sand it with 1000/1500 grids. Light pressure, different directions. Right before finish, sand the whole piece in one direction. It would turn into even 'darkness'. At this point, or during any sanding point, the finish might not look pretty, but the purpose is to get all the cratches off.

Next: Polishing. I use the 3M robbing compound. Start with the edges, I lay a piece of cloth on a even flat surface, drop a quarter size compound on it, hold the aluminum vertiaclly, 'slice' it through the compound. That should get the edges nice and shiny. For the 'inner' parts, lay the aluminum flat on the cloth, use another piece of dry cloth, wrap double layer around my finger, drop a dime size compound on the tip, rob it down hard, till it turn 'rich dark' color. Then use a clean portion of robbing cloth, rob over the surface again. At this point, the 'chrome' look should appears.

Next: cleaning. First, clean my hand throughly with soap. Then turn hot water on high volumn, rinse all the robbing compound off the aluminum. Remember not to use strong chemicals or soap, it would leave a 'white' color on it.

That's about it. If I still see tinny scratches or not happy with the look, do it over again, restart with the 1000/1500 sanding point.

I do all these by hands, since I don't own any sanding or polishing power tools.

Dre
 
altec said:
Well mothers and some other brands make stuff you can rub on, and it keeps the metal from Oxodizing.
Click to expand...
You want the aluminium to oxidise, its what protects it from rust.
 
ShaolinDragon said:
You want the aluminium to oxidise, its what protects it from rust.
Click to expand...

Oxidizing IS rust.
Just like any chemical equasion when two elements combine to form another element there is a change... when oxygen (oxidation) combines with different metals, it creates rust.

Are you thinking of anodyzing? That's a little bit different.
 
i may be wrong but aluminium cannot rust, this is the same with copper. All that happens is the metal becomes dull.
 
I just remembered science class :cool: and for rust to happen you need oxygen and water. Oxidizing is simply exposure to oxygen, this proccess can be sped up by adding heat.
 
ok i have never polish an aluminum case before but ive done aluminum airsoft gun slides, but same method can also be used. im sure a case would take at least a days or more than a week to finish if you work slowly. it took me about 8 hours to do an aluminum slide thats around 5 inches long, but it was exactly flat all over. heres the method i used:

if theres paint, ie black, red, yellow etc, wetsand using a SANDING SPOUNGE thats around 150 grit.

and wetsand using wetsanding paper starting with 600 grit working your way up to at least 1000 or until the finish is extremely smooth. higher grit will give a better look. you can buy this sand paper at automotive stores. the paper is usually black.

its best to sand under water but if u cant do that, have water running through it at all times.

after this is done, clean it and dry it right away using a clean piece of cloth. like those white washcloths you see at the hotels (the small ones). after that, can another clean washcloth, and polish it using an aluminum polish cream.

just get some of the cream onto one corner of the piece of cloth and start rubbing away at the aluminum until you get a mirror finish.
i recommend this: http://www.autobarn.net/ch05100.html

ive used it and it gives a really nice shine. dont use too much of it though, you only need a thing coat of it to get a mirror finish. it will also protect against oxidation.

note: you must polish it RIGHT AFTER it is dried therefore the last sanding step (1000 grit or whatever), drying, and polishing must be done on the same day. if you dont do this right after the other, it will start to oxidize and bare aluminum oxidizes quickly.
 
Based on JaiQwan's post, polishing aluminum apparently requires you to knock over a liquor store or something. I've never read anyone advocate "robbing" something as often as in that post. ;)

Anyway... from my understanding aluminum does not "rust" in the same way that steel does, however it does oxidize which is the exact same principle as rust. Every time you've seen anodized aluminum that's basically electrostatically "rusting" a piece of aluminum then adding dye.
 
yes your right about anodizing. basically it cost so much because of the amount of energy required. pretty much the same as electro plating.
 
SAS91 said:
i may be wrong but aluminium cannot rust, this is the same with copper. All that happens is the metal becomes dull.
Click to expand...

Of course aluminum 'rusts' as does copper, most metals will oxidise. Its just a different effect with aluminum, as it oxidises nearly instantaneously on contact with air. Unless youve watched something being milled youve probably never actually seen any aluminum, just the oxide on the top.

As far as clearcoating it goes, you can try, but unless you can somehow apply it almost straigth away (~ 1 second) then theres no point, youll be too late.
 
SAS91 said:
i may be wrong but aluminium cannot rust, this is the same with copper. All that happens is the metal becomes dull.
Click to expand...

you are correct sir....

and for you all, the mothers mag & amuminum polish avalable @ most auto stores, is a great selection, ive used it myself, and my PC75B's inside has been polished about a year now, and the finish hasent really dulled at all...
see for yourself....
05-OKGG-ELG-09-18-2004.jpg

with the exception of fingerprints, its holding up quite well.... (please ignore the pink water, i was going for the purple, and have drained the system in preporation for a 2nd attempt @ purple)
 
Vapor1000 said:
you are correct sir....

and for you all, the mothers mag & amuminum polish avalable @ most auto stores, is a great selection, ive used it myself, and my PC75B's inside has been polished about a year now, and the finish hasent really dulled at all...
see for yourself....
http://www.edlangroup.com/coppermine-1.0rc3/albums/userpics/05-OKGG-ELG-09-18-2004.jpg
with the exception of fingerprints, its holding up quite well.... (please ignore the pink water, i was going for the purple, and have drained the system in preporation for a 2nd attempt @ purple)
Click to expand...
Sorry if the other post came off a bit condescending, not how it was meant.

Ot but nice case, Swiftech blocks right? how well they running for you, assume thats a 1x120 rad in the top?
 
yea, those are all swiftech blocks.. mwc5000, 50, and 20.... and yea its a BIX 120mm with dual fans on top... its a tad more cramped in there since i added the 2nd power supply.
and they do me fine... about 46-55*F idle depending on radiator fan speed and room temp on the video card
and keeps both the cpu and NB arround 31-38*C also depending on those same variables.
and its cooling the system in my sig... *for those of you who dont look, one of the coponents is a Presshot*

but yea... i actually didnt read all of ur post herulach.. but going back and reading it all now.. i dont think you came off too strong... just too "Literal"
.
 
Cool, still not gonna sway me from AquaComputer though.
Back on topic:
You might want to try a belt sander with a very fine grit on it, see if you can get that kind of brushed look that is so common on most cases. Assuming thats not what youre trying to get away from.
 
aquacomputer huh??? nice stuff... spensive too... i purchased mine simply to cool my presshot cuz i purchased it right when it came out with LGA and there were nothing but stock coolers for the cpu and i wasent gona stand for 170*F+, so i purchased this setup from my buddy for like $180. im actually the 3rd owner of this exact water setup.... and ironicly... i now own every case (4 total) that this water setup has been in.. *no i didnt plan it it just sorta happend*

and
NONONNONONONONNONONONONONO!!!!!!!
DO NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!! I REPETE DO NOOOOOOOT! USE A BELT SANDER!!!!
i just used one the other day to remove paint from a case, and it was even a warn out sanding pad, and literaly only being on the case for half a second striped thru the paint and left marks on the steel... and that was with almost all of the grit gone from the pad... belt sanders are just too heavy duty for fine sanding....
a orbital sander with some 800-1000 grit might be the ticket tho...
 
UnknownSouljer said:
Well for more money you could always get it nickle plated. That's a really polished shine.....
Click to expand...

peterhoang2002 said:
yes your right about anodizing. basically it cost so much because of the amount of energy required. pretty much the same as electro plating.
Click to expand...

Know anyone who does nickle plating/anodizing well and doesn't charge an arm, two legs, and my hypothetical first-born? Everyone I've sent queries to always has a minimum just to do the set up. Most places are starting around $300 regardless of how small the job is.
 
Herulach said:
You might want to try a belt sander with a very fine grit on it, see if you can get that kind of brushed look that is so common on most cases. Assuming thats not what youre trying to get away from.
Click to expand...

you dont want to use a belt sander, or any type of sander to get the "brushed" look, a scotch brite pads works best

also rust is a form of oxidation, oxidation is not rust, and rust is the term for oxidation on steel or iron, aluminum and copper do oxidize, which is why they and most other metals dont last forever, if you have ever dealt with copper plumbing you would know what i mean
 
pstang said:
you dont want to use a belt sander, or any type of sander to get the "brushed" look, a scotch brite pads works best

also rust is a form of oxidation, oxidation is not rust, and rust is the term for oxidation on steel or iron, aluminum and copper do oxidize, which is why they and most other metals dont last forever, if you have ever dealt with copper plumbing you would know what i mean
Click to expand...
Id never tried it, was just an idea. Seemed sensible, although thinking about it and how soft aluminum is it might be a problem, could work on steel though, (goes on the list of projects i might try if i ever get round to it).

I knew about the rust/oxidation thing, generally never make a distinction personally, usually im talking to other physicists, so they know what i mean, and rust is shorter to say.

As far as anodizing goes, i have this link in my interesting ideas folder, but ive never tried it.
linky
 
Herulach said:
As far as anodizing goes, i have this link in my interesting ideas folder, but ive never tried it.
linky
Yeah, I've got a collection of those "do-it yourself" links too. I'm trying to do some of the internals on a Lian-Li v2000 though and since I've never done it before I'd rather not risk trashing a $300 investment. Even if I practice I'm afraid when I went to do the actual deed that would be the time something unexpected happened.

I think I might have to start a thread of people who want stuff anodized the same color. Most of the shops I've talked to said it would be about $300 to do the parts I wanted or to do 5 times as much since they'd all be tossed into the same bath together.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Herulach said:
Of course aluminum 'rusts' as does copper, most metals will oxidise. Its just a different effect with aluminum, as it oxidises nearly instantaneously on contact with air. Unless youve watched something being milled youve probably never actually seen any aluminum, just the oxide on the top.

As far as clearcoating it goes, you can try, but unless you can somehow apply it almost straigth away (~ 1 second) then theres no point, youll be too late.
Click to expand...

This is incorrect. I know you said that you used the term rusting loosely but what you said is wrong. Rusting is caused by carbon (a element) in steel to oxidize. Aluminum is a element and such has no carbon in it. And when you get done polishing it if you clear coat it and seal it from the air (eg... prevent oxidation) then it would not discolor any more than what it was when you sealed it.
 
I have never anodized Aluminum but I anodize titanium all the time. That easy to do. Aluminum is harder I hear.
 

I now know there plenty of spelling errors in my last post, I should gone over it and corrected it. All I did was copy and paste, also I wish I could find the link to work the guy did when I asked him to let me know how he did it. Because his work came out Very Very good, and well if i can find it I will post it.

Dre
 
Whitewolf said:
This is incorrect. I know you said that you used the term rusting loosely but what you said is wrong. Rusting is caused by carbon (a element) in steel to oxidize. Aluminum is a element and such has no carbon in it. And when you get done polishing it if you clear coat it and seal it from the air (eg... prevent oxidation) then it would not discolor any more than what it was when you sealed it.
Click to expand...
Dont talk such bollocks, rust is Iron Oxide, it has nothing to do with carbon. Thats why Iron (an element) also rusts the amount of carbon in it has bugger all to do with it. Maybe in steels. Although you might want to note that theres carbon in Stainless steel which pretty much doesnt rust (fairly resistant to it anyway).

Right then, rant over, get your facts straight before you tell someone theyre wrong. Anyway, back on topic. Aluminum (Oxide) is actually pretty shiny assuming its flat, if you have a brushed aluminum case then its not. Fi you just want to get it shiny then ordinary polishing should work well. Some Guy i found from google has a pretty snazzy looking guide on how he made his brushed aluminum shuttle looky very shiny indeed. Should be right up your street.
 
It is possible for aluminum to rust, because few metals are purely one metal.. ie aluminum may have traces of steel in it which can rust.

So truth be told, aluminum does not rust in and of itself.
 
Herulach said:
Dont talk such bollocks, rust is Iron Oxide, it has nothing to do with carbon. Thats why Iron (an element) also rusts the amount of carbon in it has bugger all to do with it. Maybe in steels. Although you might want to note that theres carbon in Stainless steel which pretty much doesnt rust (fairly resistant to it anyway).
Click to expand...

Bollocks huh? Wow considering that you got so much wrong in that first statement you would think you wouldnt be so brash to bash me on a late night post when I wrote down Carbon instead of Iron. Cant believe I messed that up since I use ferric chloride to etch steels...... too many beers. :) But ya you are right it is Iron Oxide that is rust. Stainless has other elements in it that help to prevent rust.
 
Whitewolf said:
Bollocks huh? Wow considering that you got so much wrong in that first statement you would think you wouldnt be so brash to bash me on a late night post when I wrote down Carbon instead of Iron. Cant believe I messed that up since I use ferric chloride to etch steels...... too many beers. :) But ya you are right it is Iron Oxide that is rust. Stainless has other elements in it that help to prevent rust.
Click to expand...

Apoligies, a bit ratty after a day of General Relativity revision. I still maintain theres no need to clearcoat aluminum, it doesnt discolour even though it oxidizes (unless you take it to extremes in which case it will go white), as long as its flat youre set +shiny.
 
Herulach said:
Apoligies, a bit ratty after a day of General Relativity revision. I still maintain theres no need to clearcoat aluminum, it doesnt discolour even though it oxidizes (unless you take it to extremes in which case it will go white), as long as its flat youre set +shiny.
Click to expand...

No problem.... thx for the apology. :)
Just matters how shiny he wants it. But ya I like the look of semi-oxidized aluminum too. Only other matter would be if something got spilled on the case.
 
A topcoat protection for buffed aluminum is necessary if you want the maximum lifespan from the finished product. Be it a 2 part polyurethane that won't harm the aluminum (some will, so make sure you have someone knowledgable to refer you to a good product)

Leaving it in a buffed, uncoated form will result in the surface pitting over time from environmental exposures and the natural oxide layer on the aluminum breaking down.

The naturally created oxide coating is around a few millionths of an inch in thickness, an anodized coating will typically be in the 3-5 ten thousandths range, much thicker than the natural oxide layer that aluminum creates upon itself.

Aluminum does not rust by the way, it corrodes. Rust is iron oxide, there is not enough iron in aluminum alloys to create rust, it instead corrodes the surface forming pits in the surface and below the surface.

Your biggest enemy is moisture, any form of it, on an unprotected product, will result in rapid acceleration of corrossion in the right environments (humid environments are like the worst w/o a doubt).

As far as anodizing and $300 goes. Keep looking, there's guys that will charge you less, you just gotta be willing to probably look outside your area. Try here for a list of places that can help ya all over the U.S. www.thomasnet.com. Just search em for Anodizing and your locale and pick up the phone and call.

There's no reason a single job for the average joe blow should run $300 / ea unless you're doing a lot of secondary operations such as buffing and polishing, or bright dipping etc etc.

And before you ask, no, I don't wanna do your case.
 
SAS91 said:
I just remembered science class :cool: and for rust to happen you need oxygen and water. Oxidizing is simply exposure to oxygen, this proccess can be sped up by adding heat.
Click to expand...

I suppose you don't remember it enough.. cause I think I remember rust is iron oxide. all you should need is oxygen and iron. In fact.. if I remember correctly pure iron + oxygen creates quite a violent reaction.
 
so ok..

i got the mirror finish with mothers wax/ polishing cream.
Now what kind of procedure do i do next to get a bad ass clear coat job on there?
I know the clear coat will fall off the aluminum plate if a paint ahesive isnt applied.
So before I gave the plate a clear coat. I sprayed BULLDOG adhesive on there. so after that i evenly coated the plate with laquer spray paint clear coat. Now the clear coat isnt quite giving the finish I expected. So do I sand the clear coat thats on there to , say maybe 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper.
 
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