Please Help, question about UPS surge protector

[ThrillSeeker]

First of all i would like to say Hello to all the people. I am new to the forum. This is my first post. Now let me describe my problem.

I bought a computer from DigitalStormOnline.com. Its a really High End PC. Last sunday my power supply blew up while i was playing game. My PC was connected to Monster Digital PowerCenter MDP 900 (http://www.amazon.com/Monster-PowerCenter-MDP-GreenPower-Charging/dp/B0023RRRD6). I called digitalstorm, and they are saying its probably the surge protector that caused it. They are sending me a new power supply, but told me to get a new surge protector. My PC is just 1 year old. I got it last year.

So after researching i finally ordered the APC Power Saving Back-UPS Pro 1500 (Model # BR1500G).(http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500G&total_watts=200). I called them and showed them this new UPS surge protector, they are saying its not powerful enough to protect my PC, Cause i am running a 1200 watts power supply. Told me to find that supports over 1200 watts.

If i get something that supports 1200 watts which will cost me around 1000 Dollars, like this one (http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SMT2200&total_watts=50)

Please help me out. Can this APC surge protector run my PC (http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500G&total_watts=200). I do not want to spend 1000 dollars for a backup surge protector. My System Configuration is below.


Thanks in advance. I would really appreciate your help guys.



System Configuration:
Chassis Model: - Cooler Master 942 HAF X

Processor: Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 990X 3.46GHz (Six-Core) (Extreme Performance)

Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Extreme (Intel X58 Chipset) (Features USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s)

System Memory: 12GB DDR3 1600MHz Digital Storm Certified (Highly Recommended) (Hand Tested)

Power Supply: 1200W Corsair Pro Gold Series (CMPSU-1200AX) (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible)

Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 2x (80GB Solid State (By: Intel) (Model: X25-M MLC Edition) (Extreme Performance)

Set 1 Raid Options: Configure HDD Set 1 to a Raid 0 Config - Stripe Performance (Requires Two HDDs)

Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: 1x (2TB Western Digital (7200 RPM) (64MB Cache) (Model: Black Edition) (SATA 6Gbps)

Optical Drive 1: Blu-Ray & DVD Writer/Reader (Burn + Play Blu-Ray & DVDs) (12x BD-R) (Lite-On iHBS112)

Video Card(s): 2x SLI Quad SLI (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590 3GB (PhysX) (EVGA Classified)

Sound Card: Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion (Includes Front I/O) (PCI-Express Slot Based)

Extreme Cooling: H20: Stage 2: Corsair H70 Liquid CPU Cooler (High-Performance Edition)

Chassis Airflow: Upgrade Chassis With LED Performance Fans (Blue) (Up to 6 Fans)

Internal Lighting: Internal Chassis Lighting System (Blue)

Noise Reduction: Noise Suppression Package Stage 2 (Optimized Airflow & Fan Speeds with Noise Dampening Material)

Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate (64-Bit Edition)

Warranty: Life-time Expert Customer Care with 6 Year Limited Warranty

 

[mhenley]

There is a lot of confusion when it comes to UPSes, and yours is fairly common. Even though your power supply is rated for 1200w of DC current output, it does not use anywhere close to that on AC current input. Plug those specs into a power supply calculator to get an idea, or use a watt meter (like Kill-A-Watt) to determine the actual draw from the wall. Make sure the test is done while the system is at FULL LOAD, and whatever number appears add about another 20% or more so that there aren't any issues in the future.

Now, make sure you get a UPS that has a WATTAGE rating of higher than your previous calculations, most rate their units in Volt-Ampere so you will have to read the specs. Also, if your power supply is Active PFC, make sure you get a UPS that supports that, and preferably one that outputs in a pure sine wave rather than simulated sine wave, since that is what the power supply wants coming in.

After you get your UPS, make sure you give it a full charge then run your system at load and perform a blackout test. Line Interactive UPS models are great for efficiency, but some of them don't switch fast enough for the computer to stay on under load.

Good luck, and welcome to the forums.

 

[TechJeff]

First and foremost, make sure you are following proper wiring USA code standards to prevent any possible hazards. Second, no matter what you do, make sure the electrical outlet your computer is on is rated at 20amps. Also, there should be nothing else on that electrical run tied to that outlet. To test, find which breaker controls the outlet for where your computer is plugged in, then turn it off. Did anything else go off anywhere in your house at the same time? If so, then you know those outlets are somehow tied or "bridged" to that computer outlet.

What you want is a dedicated 20amp or better outlet that is a direct run from the outlet to the 20amp breaker. The wiring should be either 12 or 10 AWG rated. A 20A breaker should only carry 2400W continuously. However you should only size the load for the circuit to run 80% continuously or 1920W.

This will give you plenty of room to run your computer with even a maxed load, plus monitor and some other small computer items. Yes, don't invest cheap in a UPS, you will have to get one that handles such a load. It will cost at least $700-1000 for a good one, such as APC or CyberPower. What you want to look for is true or "pure sinewave" models. The others that say "simulated" or such are not as good.

I would highly recommend Amazon Prime, you can save a lot of money on shipping for such heavy items and they stock both APC and CyberPower. In fact, I looked up a CyberPower model that was rated at 1600 watts for just under $700 shipped. Make sure you check the specks of the model before you buy on the company web site too. You want one that will accept a 20amp outlet, otherwise you will need a new 30amp rated outlet installed if you go much higher than 1600 watts. Be sure to look at the "watts" it actually is rated up to, NOT the VA rating.

Good luck

 

[silverstonec2d]

just saw this thread today, not sure if your still reading it or not. When loading up a game such as Crysis 2 or DA2 on my setup (see sig), the highest reading i've gotten from my ups is 73% load according to lcd screen on unit itself. I'd like to point out that most games I play float in the 55 to 60% range. The ups I have is an APC Smart-UPS SMT1500, which as mhenely pointed out if your psu has active PFC, you should get a "pure sine" ups. APC's regular home/office models do not have this feature, only the smart-ups series. CyberPower does make a PFC "pure sine" type UPS although i've read it's technically not pure sine. I have one of the CyperPower models on my other pc and its working fine. Back to numbers though, I have only my tower and my monitor plugged into my UPS. My UPS is rated at 1440VA or 980W. So with a 73% max draw that would mean both my tower and monitor combined were pulling about 715W. I've read in reviews that my monitor uses around 100W itself, leaving around 615W for my tower. This is before calculating psu efficiency which I believe is around 83% or so so my tower is actually using around 510W. Given my numbers I'm getting and the setup you have. I'd say at best you might be using 800W MAX which is a lot lower than your 1200W capable PSU. Unless your house wiring needs checked as TechJeff pointed out, I'd say a power surge, or faulty PSU was the problem.

 

[ThrillSeeker]

Thanks a lot for the help guys. I think the problem is my surge protector. Last week my monitor blew up. I turned on my old computer and and 3 second later loud sound came out of the monitor and just shut off. nothing happened to the old cpu.

So i am getting a new surge protector. this one ( http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPHDP...&sr=1-1&keywords=monster+greenpower+hdp+1400g ) I hope this fixes the problem.

I replaced the PSU on my new computer. Now i am waiting for the monitor to be fixed. paying 180 dollars to fix it.

I dont need a UPS battery backup system, cause i never get power outage in my area. So if this thing happens again, i might need to get an electrician to check my house wiring. Then i will consider spending 700 dollars on APC UPS backup battery system.

To silverstonec2d

if i get the APC Smart-UPS SMT1500, will my computer handle that? Cause i dont think my computer wont even pull 1200 watts at max load. The most it will do 900w. You can look at my spec on my frist post.

 

[notalent420]

Is there any reason why you choose to use Monster brand surge protectors? They do seem terribly overpriced for what it does.

Also, a UPS doesn't only protect the computer in the event of a power outage. There are some with Pure Sine Wave output which corrects "dirty" power into a power that an Active PFC power supply can use. Here's a good one (http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP...qid=1347825844&sr=8-2&keywords=cyberpower+ups)

 

[Zoson]

If you don't need a UPS get a line conditioner....
I use a pair of Tripp Lite LC1800W conditioners for my equipment. Each one is on its own 20A circuit. Basically the perfect device for areas that don't have many blackouts.

 

[ThrillSeeker]

damnn you guys should've replied earlier. i guess i will return the monster surge protector, and get the cyberpower ups or the Tripp lite lC1800 conditioners. Do they use a lot of power when i plug into the wall? And i read something about Tripp lite Lc1800, is it really loud when you plug it in? Is that true?

 

[Zoson]

My two don't make any noise at all unless there's a low voltage condition and they switch to active filtering. Then you hear the relays click once when it turns on, and then again when it turns off... I haven't had any problems with my stuff, and my apartment's wiring is old and crummy...