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[P]roject: Sink or Swim

U

USMCGrunt

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
3,103
Sup guys, after doing some asking around and lots of looking and reading. I've finally come to the part where I actually buy the parts and build my first water cooling rig. For the time being its only going to be a GPU loop though, with the equipment im packing, its not gonna be the simplest of first times me thinks. Still waiting on parts but here's the assortment of goodies I will be using:

Silverstone TJ07
x2 EK-FC6970 Acetal + EN (Nickel) (Including Backplates)
x1 EK-FC6970 V2 Acetal+EN (Nickel) (Including Backplate)
EK-BAY SINGLE RES - Acetal
x2 Laing DDC-1T Plus 12V DC Pump (MCP 355)
Aqua Computer Dual DDC Top
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (360)
x5 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm)
EK-PSC Fitting 10mm - G1/4 E-Nickel Compression fittings to be used throughout.
TUBE Masterkleer 13/10mm UV - SILVER

For those that have a hard time telling, im going with a full EK setup of components. I like their styling and being able to grab everything at once in one spot is nice...its very difficult to find a place that has all three blocks in stock and for sale at the same time.

I will ATTEMPT to properly document the ups and downs of throwing myself into the deep end.

Constructive criticism/critiques welcome.
 
Why not 6 GTs?
Are you going to be using SLI type fittings/bridges between the blocks?
Do you need 2 pumps (unless you are going for a failsafe)?
 
Good eye...forgot about that one, lol. I will be using the H50 I currently have to cool the CPU, though I should probably replace the fan with a GT...thanks for pointing out that oversight.

I will be making my own lines and using the compression fittings listed above to go from card to card.

I read here and there that multiple video cards creates a lot of pressure loss and ive seen lesser setups with multiple pumps.
 
dont bother putting a GT on the H50, in my testing with my 2600k it made 0 difference compared to Slipstreams (noticibly lower quality).

Your pump should be fine for the 3x blocks, i've got 2x alpha cools + the Rasa CPU block on the pump from the Rasa RX 360 kit and am not having flow issues.
 
W.Feather said:
dont bother putting a GT on the H50, in my testing with my 2600k it made 0 difference compared to Slipstreams (noticibly lower quality).

Your pump should be fine for the 3x blocks, i've got 2x alpha cools + the Rasa CPU block on the pump from the Rasa RX 360 kit and am not having flow issues.
Click to expand...

What about sound...are the GTs quieter than the Corsair provided fan? My purpose here is to have a quieter, cooler system...especially under load.
 
sell the h50 and buy a water block for your cpu because once you get it all set up whit your gpus your going to be wanting to do the cpu next so might as well do it all so you don't have to tear down your loop to add the cpu block. and yes go whit 2 pumps wont help your temps much but if you lose a pump your gear wont get fired. and you need some kind of kill coil
 
Ya, I was gonna have a kill coil in the res

If I want to hitup the CPU then ill just redo the loop...I have a budget to adhire to and im starting to hit that limit with what I have now...tempted to stick with my FT02 and mod the HDD cage out of it....but I really like that TJ07 lol.
 
i dont find the corsiar fan all too loud tbh, but that is highly subjective. Cooling wise, unless you have 8 GT"s, i think you'd be best keeping them on the rad rather than the H50.
 
W.Feather said:
i dont find the corsiar fan all too loud tbh, but that is highly subjective. Cooling wise, unless you have 8 GT"s, i think you'd be best keeping them on the rad rather than the H50.
Click to expand...

Ya, its hard for me to quantify the loudness of the H50 when the 6970s and x3 180mm AP fans drown out everything else, lol.
 
Use one of the 3 pin to molex adapters from the GTs and attach to a PSU, unplug everything from the PSU (or use a spare) and hotwire, and youll get an idea of how loud it is.
 
word to the wise, 6x AP-15's wont be too quite anyhow ;) It will make a nice bit of racket
 
You could use AP15s with a fan controller, or go a few steps down (1150rpms/even 800rpms).

1850@28dB x 6 = 35.5dB = 9.8M3/m (32.1cf/m)
1150@16dB x 6 = 24.5dB = 6.3M3/m (20.6cf/m)

These would be much quieter. I think the radiator you chose is a more low FPI, but thick kind of design, so would work well with slower fans. The high rpm GTs are more for skinny dense radiators. The noise blocker fans (shiney black ones) are recommended.
 
DeathPrincess said:
You could use AP15s with a fan controller, or go a few steps down (1150rpms/even 800rpms).

1850@28dB x 6 = 35.5dB = 9.8M3/m (32.1cf/m)
1150@16dB x 6 = 24.5dB = 6.3M3/m (20.6cf/m)

These would be much quieter. I think the radiator you chose is a more low FPI, but thick kind of design, so would work well with slower fans. The high rpm GTs are more for skinny dense radiators. The noise blocker fans (shiney black ones) are recommended.
Click to expand...

Gracias your highness.
 
I personally would not recommend EK, but that's your choice.

I would recommend going with a 3x180 radiator if you're not adverse to case modding. I think a 2x180 radiator would also fit quite nicely with minimal modding.

There are thick high FPI radiators.. the Black Ice GTX radiators.

If I had to pick between a second pump and a CPU block, I would pick the CPU block.
 
I just hope with your EK gear the nickle isn't flaking already, you had better check every single plated surface to make sure.
 
DarkStryke said:
I just hope with your EK gear the nickle isn't flaking already, you had better check every single plated surface to make sure.
Click to expand...

They've already fixed that issue. I don't think they've fixed their CS issues.
 
Tsumi said:
They've already fixed that issue. I don't think they've fixed their CS issues.
Click to expand...

They fixed nothing, people are still getting blocks that flake like shit, only now they're paying more for that EN privilege. Agreed on CS though, I don't see that ever being fixed with the same people (Eddy) in the driver's seat.

OP:
As for the Aqua Dual DDC Top, watch the thread clearance on it, I believe some barbs / comps don't get much bite on that model.
 
I've heard about this nickel flaking but not really sure what it is. Is the Nickel INSIDE the loop flaking off and gumming up stuff or is it just cosmetically flaking on the outside?
 
USMCGrunt said:
I've heard about this nickel flaking but not really sure what it is. Is the Nickel INSIDE the loop flaking off and gumming up stuff or is it just cosmetically flaking on the outside?
Click to expand...

The nickle is flaking INSIDE the blocks due to poor plating processes and rushed machining.

Go over and do a little reading on realredraider.com, they did all the research on the problem.

People had gummed up equipment from loose nickle and EK did their best to blame their customers.
They did nothing until Red called them on it. In fact EK hired some sham lab in slovenia or where ever to run some bullshit tests trying to blame it on the pH of the fluids the customers were using, that and some accusations that silver coils + distilled water FUBAR'd their blocks.

It was pretty good reading, back and forth, until Red pulled out the science......and fucked them right where it hurt.

Disclaimer: I contributed money so Red could hire the outside consultants.
I will never use EK blocks whether they fixed their problem or not. Heatkiller for me all the way.:D
 
LOL

RRR is hardly an unbiased source.

Nickel flakes do not turn gummy. If anything, they would block flow like leaves clog sewer drains in the streets, which is highly unlikely enough to cause damage to anything unless all the nickel flaked off a GPU full cover and all of it ended up in the CPU block. You're horribly exaggerating the situation.

I have a CPU block with nickel flake issues and not once have I found any of the flakes. Drain the water once in a while, flush the radiator(s), and you're fine.

I will agree EK blaming the end user wasn't right.
 
magoo said:
The nickle is flaking INSIDE the blocks due to poor plating processes and rushed machining.

Go over and do a little reading on realredraider.com, they did all the research on the problem.

People had gummed up equipment from loose nickle and EK did their best to blame their customers.
They did nothing until Red called them on it. In fact EK hired some sham lab in slovenia or where ever to run some bullshit tests trying to blame it on the pH of the fluids the customers were using, that and some accusations that silver coils + distilled water FUBAR'd their blocks.

It was pretty good reading, back and forth, until Red pulled out the science......and fucked them right where it hurt.

Disclaimer: I contributed money so Red could hire the outside consultants.
I will never use EK blocks whether they fixed their problem or not. Heatkiller for me all the way.:D
Click to expand...

You mean...soviets lying?!? NEVER! lol that was so hateful...but its something I will keep in mind...nothing like adding a layer of difficulty to future maintainence lol. Its also my understanding that most of this stuff (aside from rads) can be disassembled and cleaned...so unless they do irrepairable damamge...its just another step ill be taking till it all completely flakes off, lol.
 
bacon11 said:
LOL

RRR is hardly an unbiased source.

Nickel flakes do not turn gummy. If anything, they would block flow like leaves clog sewer drains in the streets, which is highly unlikely enough to cause damage to anything unless all the nickel flaked off a GPU full cover and all of it ended up in the CPU block. You're horribly exaggerating the situation.

I have a CPU block with nickel flake issues and not once have I found any of the flakes. Drain the water once in a while, flush the radiator(s), and you're fine.

I will agree EK blaming the end user wasn't right.
Click to expand...

Unbiased or not, Red was the only site that called EK on their shit and got them to admit their nickle flaking, gumming, or just plain falling off was their fault.

Or was it just co-incidence that in the same week EK was blaming their customers for FUBAR-ing their own blocks, they suddenly turned around and offered to replace the "faulty" blocks.

RedRaider may not be your mother's website, but the guy calls " a spade a spade". I guess you need a little tougher skin to go over there.
I happen to enjoy the place.:D

I had one of the "flaky" EK blocks. I had shit floating all over the place in my reservoir.....a Swiftech Micro-res.....I could see it clearly.
Cleaned my loop three times in two weeks until I saw Red's reports.

That's why I'm not too keen on EK anymore. They were NO help.
 
Well you can pretty much throwout the shopping list of parts in the original thread as thats not what im getting, at least not completely. As for now, the first of many shipments has come in so here's a small update for you all.

fanscontroller.jpg
 
Tsumi said:
I would recommend going with a 3x180 radiator if you're not adverse to case modding. I think a 2x180 radiator would also fit quite nicely with minimal modding.
Click to expand...

And what 180mm fans would you recommend? Seems like all 180mm fans are crap for radiators. They have extremely little static pressure. You can't even find good 140mm fans.
 
The Silverstone AP-181 fans work well enough. The 180 radiators are low FPI, so they don't really need high static pressure, and more than make up for it in surface area.
 
Maybe if I measured I wouldn't be so surprised but...its gigungous...
tj07inbox.jpg

ft02tj07comparison.jpg


Im gonna be doing some painting of the interior as well, get rid of that shiney silver and go with some nice matching black on the inside..or at least thats my intentions, ive never painted aluminium so it'll be interesting...
 
Interestingly, they've changed the motherboard try and have given a special cutaway plate for either various cpu layouts or possibly for the smaller form factors that weren't out there when the case was originally manufactured. I can't recall seeing it look like this in any previous case mods ive seen. Not even the online manual shows the changes.

They have also given it this mirror coating of paint...my camera (Galaxy S II) doesnt really do it justice. In fact, if I were going to keep it, a little bit of polishing would make it mirror smooth.
motherboardtray.jpg
 
I suspect that is to support dual-CPU boards like the SR-2.
 
Thar she lay stripped bare for all the internetz to see

strippedprepaint.jpg


I'll make an attempt to get some prep work done on the parts tonight and possibly a coat of primer...we'll see.
Got a few more weeks to a month before the real neat parts come in and I can stuff her full of wetness... :D
 
Few days without updates but not a lot has been accomplished. I spent a good 2-3 hours sanding down the seperator plate with 600/800 wet sandpaper (because I read that it will make a difference) the other night. I then thought it would be a bright idea to spray paint the plate in my unfinished basement with five of these for ventilation:
firstnightvent.jpg


Oh how mistaken I was....
I ended up stinking up the entire house with just a thin coat on the front and back of the plate. Luckily, the family was already asleep as it was about midnight so if it was gonna kill them, it would have been a peaceful death (JUST KIDDING, jeez...).

After a few days I managed to get weather that was semi-cooperative to spray paint in as the can says to use in temps between 50-90F. Well, it was about 35 out when I decided to do it, but the backside of my house gets the full blast of the sun and even on a day like today I was sweating out there with just a light short sleeve shirt on. So, in the mood of staying positive I set about finishing off the plate and the two 5.25 drive rails. After letting them dry/air out for about 5 minutes I brought them inside to my custom dry rack, its quite advanced:
customdryrack.jpg


For those that can't tell, thats a bathroom, lol. Right above there is a ceiling fan that's sucking the air out into my attic and ive got the door shut tight in an attempt to keep a negative pressure in the room. So far, the rest of the house still smells like roses (or as close as this family gets to it) and the bathroom isn't an instant high when you walk in either, BONUS!

Thats about all i've got done atm. I would have done more parts but I ran out of paint (only bought one can) so i'll have to go grab some more. I might get around to putting the last coat on the two side rails and getting the rest of the silvery type stuff not so silvery by the middle of next week...which is around the same time that I should be putting my order in for all the really good stuff to play with.
 
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so what's your plan with the FT02 afterwards? Are you keeping it around or selling it off?

Also, love a good tj07 build, even if the case is ancient in computer years. I mean really, 92mm fans?! Haha i'd buy one in a second if I had the dough though too. good luck.
 
Imitation said:
so what's your plan with the FT02 afterwards? Are you keeping it around or selling it off?

Also, love a good tj07 build, even if the case is ancient in computer years. I mean really, 92mm fans?! Haha i'd buy one in a second if I had the dough though too. good luck.
Click to expand...

Would sell it to a local buyer or someone willing to pay the shipping....I sold my old NZXT Panzerbox to someone for 75 bucks...ended up paying 50 dollars in shipping and it was lighter then an FT02.

Ya, TJ07 is old as dirt in terms of computer tech but its still one of the best looking highly versatile cases...first time ive seen a case that can be completely torn down (not to say they dont exist elsewhere).
 
Update HOOO!!!!!

Got a new toy:
newtoyg.jpg



After breaking in said toy, I got straight to work using it. I noticed on a test fit from the other night that wiring behind the tray was not going to be as easy as it is with an FT02, so I identified a chunk of aluminium that I wish wasn't there:
backplatebeforecut.jpg





And then promptly made it not there:
backplateaftercut.jpg


Removing that will allow me to route quite a few wires behind the mobo try without making the back panel bow out...yay. Not the best work, but as a first time user of a rotary type tool I think I did pretty well.


Weather is getting warm today and tomorrow so I hope to get the rest of the parts sanded/painted and clear coated before the end of my weekend.
 
Last edited:
Quick update for the day, managed to get a single coat on the rest of the parts and threw them together for a test fit:

testfit1stcoat.jpg


As I said, only a single coat on the mobo try which is why it looks pretty spotty there but the all black is lookin pretty damn good. Hopefully weather continues to cooperate and I can finish off the painting tomorrow.

I tested out a flat matte clear coat on the alt. PSU cage cover and im not really interested in the glossier look. I can upload a comparison shot of the clear coat next to the non-clear coat if you guys want to see the difference.
 
Because the IRS finally made me ghetto rich, ive placed my order for all the parts through FrozenCPU.com except for a GPU block which I ended up having to go directly to EK's store to buy ($ to euro hurts the wallet). So here in about 5 (business) days ill be able to get into the real meat 'n tatters of the build.
 
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