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overclocking x2 3800+...

Elysian

Gawd
Joined
Aug 27, 2005
Messages
590
i got my 3800+ today, and after the first boot clocked it up to 2.5ghz, booted into windows fine, everything stable... so i reboot, try and find the max clock i can boot at... i can boot all the way up to 2690(269x10 of course), but not 2700... but its only stable at 2.5ghz... even at 1.6v i can't get over 2500 mhz... is there anything i'm not taking into consideration? i know my board can handle 320 mhz fsb/htt, and my ram 208mhz(running at pc2700 speeds at 2500)... would me having to run a beta bios to have the x2 recognized have any effect on it? my temp's seem fine, i'm only hitting 49C@100% load on both cores, mid 30's at idle(water cooled)... heres the info on my proc

ADA3800DAA5BV
CDBHE 0535SPMW

i haven't seen any other week 35 oc info, so i don't know if what i have achieved is to be expected, but i know that some of the fairly close weeks are hitting higher than i am, and the water cooled ones seem to be hitting around 2800, where i had my venice clocked to... i'm at work right now so i won't be able to do anything with this now, but any suggestions?
 
oh, i forgot to mention, at 2600, its stable until i start to fold... then it just completely locks, no bsod, no apps closings(was what happened when i was at 2808 on my venice, the first thing to happen was F@H would just close, and then all would be well), it just locks up.
 
well i guess its the limit of the cpu. that speed it fine tho VERY respectable.
 
even lapped the ihs...
X2-001.jpg


when i get home i'm gonna make sure the water block is on there properly... guess i don't want to accept that i can only get a 25% oc out of it haha, was spoiled by my over 50% oc on my venice 3000
 
hey quik question how do you lap things? with sand paper or what
 
well, the way i did it with my processor, was mash the stock foam over the pins so as to reduce bending(still ultimately bent a few, but bent em right back so its ok), and then get a piece of 1000 and 2000(didn't have anymore 1500 otherwise i would have used that too), get the sandpaper slightly wet, put on a flat surface, and just start sanding... every few minutes i'd rewet the sand paper, and then keep going... my ihs was definately not even close to flat, it took me almost 30 minutes to get all the nickel plating knocked down to just copper, but its definately flat now...
 
would the dynex silver thermal compound you get at best buy be better than artic ceramique? i used artic ceramique, but i have a vial of that dynex crap too, should i switch?
 
well im pretty sure that when it all boils down they will both cool the same
+/- 1 or 2 degrees.
 
lapping the IHS is pretty pointless if it is not making good contact with the core itself.

Most likely it is only making poor to fair contact... I have removed enough of them to see that the thermal goop is caked on quite thick and with many "veins" from drying out and cracking.
 
Yashu said:
lapping the IHS is pretty pointless if it is not making good contact with the core itself.

Most likely it is only making poor to fair contact... I have removed enough of them to see that the thermal goop is caked on quite thick and with many "veins" from drying out and cracking.

whats the procedure used for removing the IHS? i removed the IHS on my p4 2.4C after it had died, and it seemed like it was quite easy to damage it.... i'm a bit worried about removing the IHS though, i've broken far too many Athlon's and an AXP... hence why i went intel for a little while and didn't go back to amd till they got the IHS back...
 
Have you tried putting your ram timings looser and increasing voltage to your ram?...

Otherwise im not sure
 
coolkishan said:
Have you tried putting your ram timings looser and increasing voltage to your ram?...

Otherwise im not sure
ram is only running at 179 mhz whereas its supposed to run at 200... i got it up to 2.6ghz though, by merely reseating the water block... i'm folding on both cores right now, but my temp is up to 57C... and at 1.6v... i can get into windows now at 2690mhz, but if i start to fold it'll freeze... i'm still considering taking the IHS off...
 
I wouldnt recommend taking off the ihs because if for some reason you have to put it back on the temperatures would be higher then before you took it off. Also you have to be careful when putting the waterblock on top of the core.
 
coolkishan said:
I wouldnt recommend taking off the ihs because if for some reason you have to put it back on the temperatures would be higher then before you took it off. Also you have to be careful when putting the waterblock on top of the core.
i know, thats whats holding me back, especially since the stock swiftech screws are too short imo, i'd be real worried about breaking the core because of those short screws... but there really shouldn't be any reason whatsoever for me to have to put it back on.. and now, after a little while of folding, i'm at 59C... i decided to switch on my second pump, usually i just run the hydor, but now i've got my 5 year old pump from my origional leufken setup running as well...
 
DEFINATELY DO NOT PU IT ON IF THE SCREWS ARE TOO SHORT... It will probably break and it aint worth it. Break a chip trying to oc it more or keep a chip already oc'ed.

I know which one i would choose. Dont bother man aint worth it.

But its up 2 u:(
 
just primed overnight at 2.6ghz, definately stable, i think i'm going to settle for 2.6ghz

also put a little bit more pressure on my water block since i really only put it on hand tight last night, and dropped almost 10C(was up around 59-60C at full load on both cores last night, currently at 50C now), was also able to drop the voltage down from 1.6 to 1.5

also found that epox finally released an official bios for the x2 as well as some other updates in it, so i tried that...
 
aldy402 said:
wow 1.6 is high, thank god you got water
yeah, considering what it came from on stock voltage... but i ran my venice 3000+ at 1.6 as well, so i don't feel bad running this one at ~1.6
 
i had an idea today... was wondering if it had ever been done... i was thinking of taking a nice, flat piece of aluminum(or copper, not sure yet), and removing the IHS, attaching the new piece of metal to the core(with a thin layer of artic silver, using something like jb weld on the sides of it so that its actually attached), and basically making my own heat spreader, thats actually touching the core, instead of the stock heat spreader, to see what kind of benefits i might get from that. i understand it wouldn't be as much as having no IHS, but i think its a compromise between no IHS and the stock IHS, and it will still protect my core...
 
i removed my IHS from my X2 3800+ and it was the best thing i have ever done, I am currently running @2.85 with 1.58 volts and my max temp is around 50c. To remove teh IHS you need a very thin razor blade, probably the old double sided kind that can be found at walgreens. Tape off the razor so only 4-5 mm of the balde is exposed and do not cut the PCB. It is really a easy process you just need some balls and to take your time.


read this
 
well, i bit the bullet and removed the IHS... i knocked off i think 2 or 3 of those resistor packs and damaged one, but i'm still running at 2.6ghz no problems... now time to find out how it effected my temps...

edit: i had to modify my water block, as removing the ihs put my core lower thus moving my water block closer to the socket thing(think its called the CAM), the water block wasn't sitting flat, and i still think i need to modify it more, i might attack it more in the morning if its not an issue right this moment...

edit 2: well, temp is 50C, i was 52C before removing IHS(about half an hour-45 minutes ago), so a 2C drop so far, i'm still thinking i'm not making full contact, so first thing in the am i'm going to get back to filing on my water block...

edit3: i was so nervous when i did it... i can't believe i'm back to a processor without an IHS... i don't know whats wrong with me hahaha.. oh and temp is bouncing between 50C and 51C right now, staying on 50C more often than not
 
well, looks like i got my waterblock flush with the core(had to sand off the socket 939 logo from the socket), and when the artic silver set, temps settled at 43-44C full load on both cores at 2.5ghz, when i get my 4 new fans for my rad i'll probably bump it back up, cause right now my rad is on 1 fan since the other 1 broke...
 
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