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Old Dell Trinitron getting brighter and BRIGHTER

N

nanoschizzle

n00b
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
41
Hey,

I have a 6 year old Dell Trinitron monitor. Over the past few months i have noticed the display has slowly gotten brighter and brighter. In fact, right now, i have the monitor brightness set to 0/100 and the contrast at 80/100, and it is still just slightly brighter than i would like.

Has anyone heard of this happening before? Normally, I would expect dieing monitors to get dimmer and dimmer. Any idea if there is someway to fix this (besides wearing sunglasses? :cool: ) i dont mind breaking it open and messing with it.

edit - also if i lower the brightness on my video card settings the image quality looks really crappy

Thanks,

Nanoschizzle
 
It's probably gonna take a crap soon.. i had a monitor that would get extremly bright.. i had to knock the think pretty hard and it would go back to normal.. eventually the brightness became permanent and brute force wouldn't fix it..
 
Woh! I was just about to post the same exact thing. My CTX trinitron monitor has been getting brighter and brighter over the past year. Even at 0/100 it's still too darn bright. When I raise the brightness, you can also see red/green/blue lines going diagonal.

:/
 
If it's one of the newer ones FD Trinitron, then look for a 'Color Return' option in the OSD menu. That usually brings the black levels back to factory. If it doesn't have that option then it's much harder to fix, you have to open it up and do some resistor modifications.
 
Actually, I just managed to fix my brightness problem this morning. It may help you too.

Most (if not all) CRTs, have an internal "SCREEN" setting, along with an "FOCUS" setting.

If you open your monitor's case, you'll find near the PCB, a thing called the "flybox" (look it up on google to get an idea of what it looks like). Somewhere on that flybox are knobs for the SCREEN and FOCUS. Use a screwdriver to adjust these settings.

for me, clockwise on the SCREEN setting meant "brighter" and counter-clockwise meant "darker".

You might need to adjust the FOCUS knob(s) after adjusting the brightness. You might want to do that with the monitor on and windows booted up, since it's easier to judge.

Be aware, monitors can be pretty dangerous, so use some rubber workman's gloves and a safe screwdriver. Be careful around capacitors (the tall cylinder things that look like pills) and the flybox. These can hold nasty charges even with the monitor off. If you zap yourself, I do not take any responsibility :)

But there isn't much to do, so you *should* be fine. Some people adjust them with the monitor on. Me, I'm paranoid...so I adjusted...test...turned off...adjusted...test...turned off...etc etc.

When I was adjusting, I noticed that the manufactures used some sort of glue to keep the SCREEN and FOCUS settings in place, however it looked like it was coming off. I figure that, overtime, the heat from the monitor melted that glue -- and through countless times of moving that monitor...the knob for the SCREEN setting has gotten knocked around. The knobs are pretty sensitive.

Anyway, hope that helps.

check this out for more info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_monfaq3.html#MONFAQ_013
 
My Trinitron Sony G400 is about 5 yrs old and is continually getting brighter too. I can even make out the retrace lines in the upper right-hand corner. I opened it up and played with the screen/focus knobs for about an hour and couldn't make it any better.
 
Heh, not "Flybox", Try "Fly Back" ;) It's the high voltage transfomer, all tube TV CRT monitors have one. As a rule you have about 30000 (thirty thousand) volts there at some very high RF frequencies. Won't kill you but can give you some very nasty burns.

While on the subject as you raise that voltage you also raise the radiation level of the tube. Think X-Ray. There is supposed to be a "Crow Bar" circuit in there to prevent this, but it doesn't always cut out when it's supposed to. Hate to see you guys maybe impairing your future ability to re-produce :rolleyes:

Takes special tools to set one up to spec...Face it, at 6 years it's probably a bit tired and about done.

Luck

BillR
 
oops :) I meant flyback (not box). slip of the fingers.

I don't think tweaking the SCREEN settings out the flyback will zap you full of radiation though. These are meant to be user-controlled.
 
K2Rage101 said:
My Trinitron Sony G400 is about 5 yrs old and is continually getting brighter too. I can even make out the retrace lines in the upper right-hand corner. I opened it up and played with the screen/focus knobs for about an hour and couldn't make it any better.
Click to expand...

My Sony E400 is doing the same thing. I need to get in there and take care of that.
 
trilobyte said:
oops :) I meant flyback (not box). slip of the fingers.

I don't think tweaking the SCREEN settings out the flyback will zap you full of radiation though. These are meant to be user-controlled.
Click to expand...

Actually they are NOT meant to be user controlled. There are very tight specs for the voltages involved EXACTLY because of XRAY. You can however buy a special volt meter to set the voltage to spec. The "CrowBar" circuit I mentioned is there to prevent over voltage, but they are usually way off spec.

The phrase "No user serviceable parts inside" actually does have meaning. Do yourself a favor, get a tech manual and so some reading ;)

Luck

BillR
 
BillR said:
Actually they are NOT meant to be user controlled. There are very tight specs for the voltages involved EXACTLY because of XRAY. You can however buy a special volt meter to set the voltage to spec. The "CrowBar" circuit I mentioned is there to prevent over voltage, but they are usually way off spec.

The phrase "No user serviceable parts inside" actually does have meaning. Do yourself a favor, get a tech manual and so some reading ;)

Luck

BillR
Click to expand...

But as far the SCREEN and FOCUS knobs are concerned, aren't the MAX-MIN pre-defined settings according to spec already? (i'm asking, not telling :) )


Most modern monitors have pretty-low x-ray emissions now. And most (if not all) have proper sheilding in the front. And in this case, we're talking about reducing brightness (which would reduce any existing x-ray emissions in the process :p )
 
Most monitors do in fact have very low radiation output, agreed. However, go check out a service manual for a TV or CRT anything and you will find plenty of warnings and "Max specs" to try to keep it that way.

I meant that all as a word of caution. You will find similar warnings through out life..Such as if your of drinking age and are standing at the urinal in a restroom at a bar, the sign saying "Don't eat the big white mint" is for your protection...in the end you have to make your own mind up ;)

BillR
 
I am attempting this fix on my Trinitron E400 but it seems that the only knobs i can find as of now are the H&V focus. anynone know where the screen knob is on this model? I would greatly appreciate it. thanks
 
Gosh, finally, a topic I could relate to =)

I opened my Samsung 955DF's up a couple of months ago in a quest to find these focus and brightness knobs. Unfortunately, I was met by those H and V focus or something which wasn't really what I was looking for. If anyone knows how to work with these and save me $200, I'd be eternally grateful. thanks
 
I have the same problem on my Sony 20". If I don't even know how to open that monitor as I'm not a technician, can I drop off to the service center, if so, you think one hour labor will do?

Hey trilobyte, did you require any parts to fix this problem?
 
Happy Hopping: It costs alot to get a monitor fixed. Unless that monitor of yours is very expensive or your just very attached to it, try doing it yourself (it's not that hard, just scary =X). Only if someone would post some specific details on how to do it (the ones with the H and V screw thingies T_T)
 
Are you referring to the above specific problem? Or fixing monitor in general? It doesn't sound like a time consuming task when Trilobyte said all it takes is re-soldering some joints.

Hey Trilobyte, how long does it take you? Did you pay for any parts? Please help
 
Was just doing some research and found that my monitor does not have the screen flyback, I did find out that you can change a resistor out on the CRT board. the resistor number is R053 and it is 22Mohm, and is to be replaced with an 18Mohm. Can anyone tell me what this all means? I am willing to attempt the mod if i can get the right part. Does radio shack carry them? here's a resistor search on radioshack.com
http://www.radioshack.com/search.as...rch&image1.x=0&image1.y=0&image1=submit&SRC=1
Do any of these look as if they would work? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!

BTW, what does the M mean? I am only seeing resistors with the 18ohm, not 18Mohm. Is there a difference? I'm not really concerned with ruining the monitor as it was quite crappy so all i need is some help with finding the proper resistor, then I'll have at it with no worries of destroying the monitor. thanks again.
 
Usually small m stands for milli-ohm, as in 0.001. Big M stands for Mega as in 1,000,000.
 
thanks! i figured that out shortly after posting. I bought the resistor and now i get no picture :/ the monitor powers up normally and seems to be functioning. it even goes into self test, but i have no picture. any ideas?
 
put the old resistor back in there and see if it works...

if not, you did something else other than just changing the resistor...
 
seantree: wanna help me out and let me know where you find all that out? <3 might not help me, but then again, it might.
 
I've repaired about 5 trinitrons in about 7 years theres about three caps that go bad in the flyback section, I just order all new caps for the board, theres about 10 on the board at 1.00 to .25 each and one thats 5.00 replace them all. If an caps shorting the screen will get brighter and brighter I found that the new resistor works only if the caps are good. remember the white line on the cap gos to the white half moon or the negative on the board.
 
The reason why CRTs have a limit on the brightness is to avoid damage to the tube. If it ran on super-brightness all the time, it would die much faster.

Your monitor is definitely on the way out. At least it lasted 6 years. :(
 
Crazy tech said:
I've repaired about 5 trinitrons in about 7 years theres about three caps that go bad in the flyback section, I just order all new caps for the board, theres about 10 on the board at 1.00 to .25 each and one thats 5.00 replace them all. If an caps shorting the screen will get brighter and brighter I found that the new resistor works only if the caps are good. remember the white line on the cap gos to the white half moon or the negative on the board.
Click to expand...

How much is the parts & labor for the job w/ the screen getting brighter and brighter? How much time did you spend for each monitor approximately?
 
It costs me about 20.00 and 2 hours labor time I had to clean the old electrolyte off the board, using an small paint brush and alcohol, I used an solder remover from radio scrap the one that is an soldering iron with an bulb on it. Make sure you discharge the tube by taking an thin long flat blade screwdriver and an jumper wire hooked to the wire ground around the CRT tube wear rubber gloves and slide the screwdriver under the cup on the high voltage wire you will hear an pop sound, now the CRT tube should be discharged. now you can take the cup of by pinching the end of the cup with you fingers. This will allow you to take the broad out completely. I set the cover back on the monitor while I work on the monitor main board (less chance of the tube getting broken from being bumped). You will need to mark were the wires plug in to the board ,I use an black marker and mark on masking tape which I stick on the plugs and on the plug sockets and label 1,2,3,4 etc.
I hope this helps, I rebuild monitors thrown out by computer repair stores I get 20 for 15 and 65 for 17 inch I use used caps for the 15inch but the 17 inche I use new . :D
 
seantree said:
I got the info from here
http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread?forumid=87612&messageid=1087480241&lp=1088679016
I just bought the proper transistor(18M ohm) and replaced R053 on the A board. My monitor works like a charm now. I have some convergence probs, but thats because i played with the H&V focus. I'll get her tweaked here soon. If you need a schematic let me know.
Click to expand...

Hey CrazyTech, would you know if the above solution from Sean will work on a Sony GDM-20SE2T as well? Please let me know.
 
What is the monitor doing exactly Is it too bright or dieing after an short time this monitor has more problems ,I'll need an account of things its doing like is the image folding or screwing on the sides.
 
Well, one day, all of a sudden, the screen turned really bright. Then after a few reboot, it goes back to normal. Then a short while later, it turned really bright.

I turned the brightness to zero, and it is somewhat okay.

Then a day later, there is nothing on the screen, I can see the on-screen manual by pushing those buttons at the bottom, but can't see anything else.

Took it to the monitor repair shop, the guy isn't sure what's happening, but when he turned it on, he can see the screen, just that it is really bright.

On an unrelated matter;
About 2 yr. ago, one of the color spectrum faded out, and Sony replaced it w/ some board, cost $800 parts & labor. The monitor was purchased in Jan 98.
 
Happy Hopping said:
On an unrelated matter;
About 2 yr. ago, one of the color spectrum faded out, and Sony replaced it w/ some board, cost $800 parts & labor. The monitor was purchased in Jan 98.
Click to expand...

Jesus, $800 for repairs? How much is this monitor worth?
 
I paid $2000 in Jan 98 as a dealer discount cost. 10% off from Sony. Just after that, they announce the GDMF-400, i.e., they kill the 20 and move to 19 and 21. But those has variable Aperture Grill Pitch, i.e., good viewing in the centre, blur at the corner.

My one is .25 AGP thru out the entire screen, and .25 is very good even as of today.
 
"wont kill you"

your insaine if you truely believe that. Touch one of those caps and you will be:

a. Thrown across the room like a rag doll (ive witnesssed it happen in a lab)

b. Be dead.

Those caps hold a huge amount of energy and they hold that energy for MONTHS.
 
I actually had my viewsonic go nutty on me last week. It is a trinitron style (not shadow mask) and last week I got all these static-ey lines going horizontally across the screen. I've turned everything off, turned on only the monitor, and the "no signal" image was all static-ey too. Any idea what this could be?
 
Hi I found some info on your monitor happy hopping It says to replace C610,c611,c612,c614,cc15,ece ect and try replacing q512,q11and d540. Hope this helps. Now quiksilvr00 your monitor as one of two things wrong with it, one the horizontal transistor fried or, one or two of the caps in the horizontal section shorted. Good luck.
 
Happy Hopping said:
How old is your Viewsonic Trinitron? What's the model name?
Click to expand...

4 years old in 1 month. It is the PF790.

"Now quiksilvr00 your monitor as one of two things wrong with it, one the horizontal transistor fried or, one or two of the caps in the horizontal section shorted."

Anyway to fix those things, or should I just get a new monitor?

And....I'm not too keen on the idea of fixing it myself, just because I don't want to discharge the tube into my arm. I prefer to stay out of hospitals. :)
 
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