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New Work/Gaming Rig Some advice needed

D.N.E.T

n00b
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
1
1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc
I am Day Trader so i will be using it for multi-monitor charting and high end gaming. Video and Photo editing would be a once and a while thing. I do plan to stream content.
2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?
My budget at the moment is around 25-2700$ total.
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.
North West Indiana
4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.
Case/MB/RAM/GPU/HDD/PSU/CPU/Heatsink
5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.
none
6) Will you be overclocking?
I do plan on OC this set up.I would like to run this setup as close to 2400Mhz as i can with a good oc to about 4-4.5Mhz
7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?
I plan on using a triple monitor set up with a 4th 37 inch tv.
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
I will be buying all the parts within a week or so
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.
Raid/SATAIII/USB 3.0/SLI
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?
Either Windows 7 Pro or Ulti 64 Bit

This is what i am planning on getting at the moment. Andy input or advice would be amazing.

Thermaltake Level 10 GT 219.99$
Ultra X4 Modular 1050-Watt PSU 169.99$
Windows 7 64Bit Pro/Ulti OEM 134.99$/174.99$
ASUS P9X79 PRO 309.99$
Intel Core i7-4820K 324.99$
G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 4x4GB DDR3 2400Mhz F3-19200CL11Q-16GBZHD 229.99$
2x EVGA GTX 760 SC in SLI 519.98$
Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 84.99$
2x SATAIII SAMSUNG 840 EVO 120GB in Raid 0 219.99$
or (This is my OS/Program drive)(need input on which one will be better)
2x SATAIII INTEL 530 180GB in Raid 0 319.98$
2x SATAIII WD C.Blue 1Tb 7200RPM/64MB Cache 199.98$ (Data Drive)
LITE-ON DVD Burner 19.99$

Other items

RAZER BlackWidow KB 139.99
RAZER 2013 DeathAdder 59.99$
Klipsch - ProMedia 2.1 139.99$(Already have these)
Monitors will be purchased in a few weeks. Will be using a 37 inch 120hz LED Samsung TV for the moment.

TOTAL 2400$-2600$
 
I will need a new PCU because the one i was going to buy is now not available for purchase anymore.
 
Thermaltake Level 10 GT 219.99$]
Why this case?
Windows 7 64Bit Pro/Ulti OEM 134.99$/174.99$
Go for Pro. More than likely you won't use even half the extra features found in Ultimate. With that said, if you're planning on playing a ton of BF4, you might want to considering Windows 8.1 instead:

ASUS P9X79 PRO 309.99$
Intel Core i7-4820K 324.99$
G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 4x4GB DDR3 2400Mhz F3-19200CL11Q-16GBZHD 229.99$[/COLOR]
This is the part that doesn't make much sense to me for a number of reasons:
1) Why do you need such high-speed RAM? For the majority of real world uses and games out there, RAM speeds above DDR3 1600 provides no noticeable real world performance increase.

2) Why would you go for 4 sticks of 4GB of RAM on a platform designed to handle up to 64GB of RAM? In other words, you're negating a key advantage of the X79 platform by going with 4GB sticks of RAM. You should be looking at 8GB sticks of RAM at the least if going X79

3) If you don't actually need to use more than 32GB of RAM, why go socket 2011 in the first place? You haven't listed the hex-core i7s nor have you stated plans for tri or quad-SLI. Those are the three main reasons to go socket 2011.


2x SATAIII SAMSUNG 840 EVO 120GB in Raid 0 219.99$
or (This is my OS/Program drive)(need input on which one will be better)
2x SATAIII INTEL 530 180GB in Raid 0 319.98$
The Samsung would be better.

Ultra X4 Modular 1050-Watt PSU 169.99$
......
I will need a new PCU because the one i was going to buy is now not available for purchase anymore.
Assuming you mean PSU, even if that PSU was in-stock, I still wouldn't have recommended it.
 
Why this case?

Go for Pro. More than likely you won't use even half the extra features found in Ultimate. With that said, if you're planning on playing a ton of BF4, you might want to considering Windows 8.1 instead:


This is the part that doesn't make much sense to me for a number of reasons:
1) Why do you need such high-speed RAM? For the majority of real world uses and games out there, RAM speeds above DDR3 1600 provides no noticeable real world performance increase.

I plan on doing some heavy over clocking and would like the option of the ram speeds to be able to go above 1600

2) Why would you go for 4 sticks of 4GB of RAM on a platform designed to handle up to 64GB of RAM? In other words, you're negating a key advantage of the X79 platform by going with 4GB sticks of RAM. You should be looking at 8GB sticks of RAM at the least if going X79

This is true but for the money this is the best platform for me to be on andnd i will look at some other sticks and price points to get 4x8GB.

3) If you don't actually need to use more than 32GB of RAM, why go socket 2011 in the first place? You haven't listed the hex-core i7s nor have you stated plans for tri or quad-SLI. Those are the three main reasons to go socket 2011.

no point in hex core for my uses and this will perform just fine compared to them. I am not going to be useing cad or folding or doing heavy editing.



The Samsung would be better.


Assuming you mean PSU, even if that PSU was in-stock, I still wouldn't have recommended it.

I am going to get a corsair 1000watt
 

would like the option of the ram speeds to be able to go above 1600
Why?



This is true but for the money this is the best platform for me to be on andnd i will look at some other sticks and price points to get 4x8GB.
....
no point in hex core for my uses and this will perform just fine compared to them. I am not going to be useing cad or folding or doing heavy editing.
From what you've said so far, the socket 2011 platform isn't the best for you. You haven't mentioned plans to use more than 32GB of RAM, a hex-core CPU, and/or tri/quad SLI. So why socket 2011?

If you are planning on using more than 32GB of RAM, then yeah stick with socket 2011 but go with the Asus Sabertooth X79 motherboard instead since it's a bit more reliable .

If you're not planning on using more than 32GB of RAM, then I see no reason for you to get socket 2011. Instead, you should be looking at socket LGA 1150 and the Core i7 4770K.

I am going to get a corsair 1000watt
Which one? One of the Corsair ~1000W belong to a particular Corsair line that isn't exactly the best. The Corsair ~1000W is fine though. With that said, I don't think you need a 1000W PSU. A fully overclocked Core i7 3770K with R9 290X Crossfire used up to 780W of power:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013...0x_crossfire_video_card_review/9#.UuHmOBDTlQI

Since your GTX 760s uses significantly less power, you should be fine with a solid 750W PSU. Maybe 850W at most. So I recommend these PSUs instead:
$130 - Corsair HX750 750W Modular PSU
$156 - Corsair HX850 850W Modular PSU
$160 - Corsair AX760 760W Modular PSU
$198 - Corsair AX860 860W Modular PSU]

In case you're wondering, the AX is of higher quality and performance than the HX. Hence the higher price. I would recommend any of the above PSUs over the Corsair 1000W PSUs in your case.

You haven't answered my case question. The reason why I asking about your choice of case is because it's honestly not worth the money. I've seen far far better cases for the money like the following:
$90 - Corsair Carbide Series 400R ATX Case
$100 - NZXT Phantom PHAN-001BK White Full Tower ATX Case
$100 - NZXT Phantom PHAN-001WT White Full Tower ATX Case
$110 - Antec 1100 ATX Case
$110 - Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Arctic White ATX Case
$120 - Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Gunmetal Black ATX Case
$120 - Corsair Carbide Series 500R ATX Case
$130 - NZXT Phantom 530 Black Full Tower ATX Case
$144 - Silverstone RV03B-W ATX case
$144 - Silverstone RV03B-WA ATX case
$150 - Corsair Graphite Series 600TM ATX Case
$160 - Corsair Obsidian Series 750D ATX Case
$160 - Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T ATX Case
$170 - Corsair Obsidian Series 650D ATX Case
$170 - NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Full Tower ATX Case
$170 - NZXT Phantom 630 White Full Tower ATX Case
$230 - Silverstone FT02B-USB3.0 ATX Case
$250 - Silverstone FT02S-W-USB3.0 ATX Case
$245 - Corsair Obsidian Series 800D CC800DW ATX Case
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
I have taken into considerations from a few great minds including you folks and have come up with this as my more or less final build.

Nanoxia DS6 Case (Quiet and fits everything.)
I7-4770K (Dont need LGA2011 or its 6 cores.)
ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA Z87 (Feature packed and best support for 2 way SLI and OC.)
G.Skill RIPJAWS X 2x8GB 2133Mhz CL 9 (Will run the best for my needs at XML.)
EVGA GTX 780 TI CLASSIFIED (Will end up getting another one when the time is needed.)
SAMSUNG 840 PRO 256GB SSD (Better then two for boot drive.)
2X WD Black 500GB SATAIII in raid 0 (best way to store data and i dont need more space.)
Corsair AX860I PSU (More then enough for my needs.)
Corsair H110 Cooler (Will make for a perfect push/pull setup on this case.)
ASUS CD/DVD Drive (Will probably only use it to install windows....)
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit

Peripherals

RAZER BlackWidow KB (Preferred)
RAZER 2013 DeathAdder (Preferred)
RAZER Vespula Mouse Pad (Preferred)
Klipsch - ProMedia 2.1 (Already have these)

TOTAL: 2963$
 
I have taken into considerations from a few great minds including you folks and have come up with this as my more or less final build.

Nanoxia DS6 Case (Quiet and fits everything.)
I7-4770K (Dont need LGA2011 or its 6 cores.)
ASUS MAXIMUS VI FORMULA Z87 (Feature packed and best support for 2 way SLI and OC.)
G.Skill RIPJAWS X 2x8GB 2133Mhz CL 9 (Will run the best for my needs at XML.)
EVGA GTX 780 TI CLASSIFIED (Will end up getting another one when the time is needed.)
SAMSUNG 840 PRO 256GB SSD (Better then two for boot drive.)
2X WD Black 500GB SATAIII in raid 0 (best way to store data and i dont need more space.)
Corsair AX860I PSU (More then enough for my needs.)
Corsair H110 Cooler (Will make for a perfect push/pull setup on this case.)
ASUS CD/DVD Drive (Will probably only use it to install windows....)
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit

Peripherals

RAZER BlackWidow KB (Preferred)
RAZER 2013 DeathAdder (Preferred)
RAZER Vespula Mouse Pad (Preferred)
Klipsch - ProMedia 2.1 (Already have these)

TOTAL: 2963$

Much better.
 
Is the EVGA GTX 780 TI Classified the best GTX 780 TI or is the SC'ed varient just as good.
 
Something else that has come to my attention is that with this socket for some reason i can only find one Mobo that will support 2x(x16) PCi-e 3.0. so i am a little confused. If i decide to go and buy another GTX 780 TI CLASSIFIED at a later date i will only be able to run 2x8 PCi-e 3.0. now will i see a huge decline in performance when i decide to do this or should i go back to a LGA 2011 Build. I again will never need more then 32GB of ram and do not need 6 cores. I think i will be fine forthe time being and will never have to worry about this. I feel that if i need another video card that either I will buy the newest card available at the time or SLI this card and never have any problems. I dont forsee having problems with any games for a while.
 
Something else that has come to my attention is that with this socket for some reason i can only find one Mobo that will support 2x(x16) PCi-e 3.0. so i am a little confused.
That's a hard limitation for the socket LGA 1150 platform. Intel designed it that way to make their more expensive 2011 platform more appealing.
If i decide to go and buy another GTX 780 TI CLASSIFIED at a later date i will only be able to run 2x8 PCi-e 3.0. now will i see a huge decline in performance when i decide to do this or should i go back to a LGA 2011 Build. I again will never need more then 32GB of ram and do not need 6 cores. I think i will be fine forthe time being and will never have to worry about this. I feel that if i need another video card that either I will buy the newest card available at the time or SLI this card and never have any problems. I dont forsee having problems with any games for a while.
No, you won't see a huge decline in performance unless 1-3% is a huge decline to you.

With that said, your planned setup still isn't that good. The main advantage of the socket LGA 1150 platform is its overall lower price compared to the socket 2011 platform. So you're completely negating the advantage when you're spending $300+ on a LGA 1150 motherboard. So unless you're planning on getting six SSDs (LGA 1150's other advantage besides price is that it has six native SATA 6.0Gb/s ports whereas LGA 2011 only has two native SATA 6.0Gb/s ports), if you're going to insist on spending $300 for a motherboard, you might as well go LGA 2011. Otherwise, go for a cheaper LGA 1150 motherboard like the Asus Maximus VI HERO. ~$200 is the most I would recommend spending on a LGA 1150 motherboard.

Also, for the OS, you might want to consider going with Windows 8.1 as it does have some performance increases as well as potential future performance increases over Windows 7:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013...dows_7_vs_81_performance_review/#.UuM2kBDTlQI
 
Thank you for your feedback and advice. I am going to keep the build but change out the CPU back to a 4820k and go with the ASUS Sabertooth x79 Mobo. The only thing i need to look up is going to be the best 4x4GB ram set to get for this. Yes i understand it goes to 64 Gb but i will never need it in real word. I plan on SLI at a later date and this will support the rest of my build as well. The price difference is pretty much the same so that is why i was looking at either a high end 4770k alternative to the 4820k.

What would the best Mhz and CL ram be for this particular socket. I was looking at getting the RIPJAWS Z 4x4GB 2133MHZ CL9 ram and keeping it at 1866?
 
The only thing i need to look up is going to be the best 4x4GB ram set to get for this. Yes i understand it goes to 64 Gb but i will never need it in real word.
Still the issue of price though. I would only recommend a 4 x 4GB set if it's significantly cheaper than a comparable 2 x 8GB set. Otherwise, it's still not worth it from a price to performance standpoint.

What would the best Mhz and CL ram be for this particular socket. I was looking at getting the RIPJAWS Z 4x4GB 2133MHZ CL9 ram and keeping it at 1866?
With current Intel platforms, you really won't notice any difference with RAM speeds above DDR3 1600. However there are extremely rare occasions where DDR3 1866 makes a slight difference. So if you want to cover those extremely rare occasions, get DDR3 1866 RAM rated at CAS 10 or below. Otherwise, any CAS 11 DDR3 1600 RAM will be fine. In other words, RAM doesn't make that much of a difference so don't spend too much extra money on RAM.
 
One more thing that comes to mind is the way i would set up the raid array on the Sabertooth x79 mobo. With 2 of the sata III connectors as the SSD Cache name would i put my 2 WD SATA III Blacks in the intel sata III ports and set them in raid 0 while i keep my main os and program SSD on the marvel SSD Cache SATA III port. Is this posible so i can utilize all the SATA III ports.
 
One more thing that comes to mind is the way i would set up the raid array on the Sabertooth x79 mobo. With 2 of the sata III connectors as the SSD Cache name would i put my 2 WD SATA III Blacks in the intel sata III ports and set them in raid 0 while i keep my main os and program SSD on the marvel SSD Cache SATA III port. Is this posible so i can utilize all the SATA III ports.
It's possible but it's not recommended. The Intel SATA 6.0Gb/s ports are going to be far more faster than the Marvel 6.0Gb/s ports. So you should have your SSDs on the Intel SATA 6.0Gb/s ports. As for the hard drives, you don't need to put them on any SATA 6.0Gb/s since hard drives haven't even exceeded the limitations of SATA 3.0Gb/s. In other words, you're not going to notice a difference between SATA 3.0Gb/s and SATA 6.0Gb/s for those hard drives. Hence why I would recommend putting the hard drives on the Intel SATA 3.0Gb/s so that you can get the slightly better driver/support/reliability of the Intel storage controller over the Marvell storage controller. I really only use the Marvell storage controllers for simple extra storage.
 
Thank you for this clarification and your awesome feedback. I cant wait to get this thing in and all set up.

My only other question would be... Would i have any problems running 4x4GB RIPJAWS Z 2133Mhz CL9's with the XML config on the ram.Since for the price i was going to pay for similar ram i can get these and still fit my budget.
 
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Thank you for this clarification and your awesome feedback. I cant wait to get this thing in and all set up.

My only other question would be... Would i have any problems running 4x4GB RIPJAWS Z 2133Mhz CL9's with the XML config on the ram.Since for the price i was going to pay for similar ram i can get these and still fit my budget.
XML doesn't always work right. So there might some problems. More than likely you're going to have to go into the UEFI and set up the RAM timings and speed manually as Intel CPUs technically only support DDR3 1600 speeds and many motherboards will just automatically downclock higher speed RAM down to DDR3 1333 RAM speeds.

Oh and make sure that the RAM is rated at 1.5V or lower. Any higher and you risk potential CPU damage.
 
These are the 3 Modules i have been looking at and would love some feedback on them.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ProductReviewAjax=false&Page=2#scrollFullInfo


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ProductReviewAjax=false&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

(Same timings as the ones above but support XML 1.3)

OR

Should i just say fuck it and get the best 1600Mhz Ram i can find. Is it worth performance increase with going to 1866 or even 2133 even if it is only extremely rare. The price inst the problem i just want something that will work the most efficient.

Best 1600Mhz i could find

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231516

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233239
 
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Is it worth performance increase with going to 1866 or even 2133 even if it is only extremely rare.
For a single GPU, not worth it at all as you can see in here in the dedicated GPU testing portion of Anandtech's Haswell RAM performance tests. In the majority of those tests, there were not noticeable (as in you can tell without the aid of any program) performance increases with going with lower latency or higher speed RAM or a combination of the two.

The rare occasions I was speak of basically involves the small performance increases AT saw in tri-Crossfire testing in the same review.. Even then, most of those increases were around 2-3 FPS.

Despite what the AT conclusion says, if you actually look at their data, the difference between DDR3 1866 and DDR3 1600 are so small that it's extremely rare and/or near impossible for you to tell the difference.

Now as for the RAM you've linked to, I wouldn't recommend any of them based on what I've just posted and their pricing. Even if you wanted 4 x 4GB CAS 9 DDR3 1866 RAM for whatever reason, the first RAM set you posted is overpriced considering that you can just buy four of these 4GB sticks of CAS 9 DDR3 1866 RAM with the same timings for $160 altogether, $20 less than the set you linked.
 
Is there a real world difference in the X and Z varients ram i will notice. Or is it only for the XML version they use.
 
Thank you for answering all of my nit picky questions and concerns. I have been trying to make this build work in and out and learning all the small stuff has been fun. Another reason i love this forum. Just gotta be a bit on it when i plan on spending a good 3k on everything here in a few days.

Do you for-see any kind of issues i will have if i end up getting another GTX 780 TI Class for SLI, But by then i will probably either have a chance to get the top end card of that time or end up getting better performance from the SLI.
 
thank you again for all of your help and i know i have asked so many nit picky things but i just want to make sure everything is going to work together since i am going to end up dropping about 3k for everything. I have been trying my best to read up on everything but its so hard when you do not know the small stuff. Main reason i love this forum.
You're welcome!
One last thing. Now that i have decided to stick with the 4820k and the Sabertooth x79 when i decide to either buy another GTX 780 TI Class for SLI will this be more then enough. I do not see this card letting me down for some time.

More than enough unless you're the extremely demanding type like some people here on forums (i.e they upgrade video cards every year). However, I highly recommending upgrade to GTX 780 TI SLI as soon as possible (if you're actually planning to play across all three monitors), preferably within 2-6 months. After that, the chances of you upgrading to SLI just keep getting lower and lower and lower.....
 
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After about a week of contemplating all the parts this is the final build to order.

NZXT Phantom 820
I7-4820K
ASUS Sabertooth x79
G.Skill RIPJAWS X 4x4GB 1866Mhz CL9
EVGA GTX 780 TI CLASSIFIED (Future SLI)
SAMSUNG 840 PRO 256GB SSD (OS/Programs)
2X WD Black 500GB SATAIII in raid 0 (Data)
Corsair AX860I PSU
Corsair H110 Cooler
ASUS CD/DVD Drive
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit

Peripherals

RAZER BlackWidow Ultimate KB
RAZER 2013 DeathAdder
RAZER Vespula Mouse Pad
Klipsch - ProMedia 2.1 (Not included in price)

TOTAL: $2,902.62 (Tax and Shipping) Thanks Dangman
 
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Nanoxia DS6 Case
I have some concerns about this case. Of the few "reviews" I've found for this case, none of them did actual temperature testing against cases of similar style, price bracket, and/or market segment. So its cooling capabilities are actually questionable.

Then there's its supposed quietness. For that aspect, I tend to defer to the website Silent PC Review. But they haven't reviewed that case either so I'm skeptical of its quiet claims. They did review the old DS1 and found it to be "decent". Not exactly a ringing endorsement.

In other words, I don't think there's enough information to justify buying that case, whether for its cooling, quietness, or both. Considering that I myself spent hours researching cases that were around ~$100 and figuring which ones would be best for my personal use, I'd imagine someone spending $200+ on a case would want a lot more information to justify their purchase.
 
I was looking at the thermaltake level 10 GT but i would have to go with the h100i which is not a big deal.

this is the other case i have been looking at as well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146098

If you know of a case that will allow me to set up a push pull H100i/H110 cooler on the top and have enough room for that massive ass GPU please let me know. This will be sitting in my room under my desk. I would like it to be as quiet as possible but i will shut it down when i go to sleep.
 
this is the other case i have been looking at as well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146098

If you know of a case that will allow me to set up a push pull H100i/H110 cooler on the top and have enough room for that massive ass GPU please let me know. This will be sitting in my room under my desk. I would like it to be as quiet as possible but i will shut it down when i go to sleep.
That would not be a bad choice for a case. Looking at the HardOCP review of it, it looks like a very solid case. I've also worked with its 630 and 530 brothers and those cases were absolute pleasures to build in. My only problem with it is its price. Though I would still recommend it over the Level 10 GT.

Though speaking of the Phantom 530, HardOCP also said that case could fit a H100 type liquid cooler with a push-pull config. But since you want a lot of space for the GPU, you might want to look at the Phantom 630 (over the 530) as well. Cheaper than the Phantom 820 but still meeting your two stated goals.

I can't think of any quiet case (cases specificailly designed for low noise) that would accommodate a push-pull config with a H100/H110.
 
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I see where you are coming from and i like what your telling me. I love the review. I personally am going to go with the 820 and the nice thing is it will be able to use the H110 140mm fans.
 
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Now the build looks fairly solid based on our discussion.
 
Greetings

SAMSUNG 840 PRO 256GB SSD (OS/Programs)
2X WD Black 500GB SATAIII in raid 0 (Data)

If your intending to use the spinners in Raid-0 to get better performance then why not go one better and spend a bit more and just get a 1TB Samsung Evo all up (or if the budget can't stretch then at least a 750GB one), if your storing mostly data on the spinners then you can put that onto your SSD and turn windows compression on to save space as raw data should be highly compressible, the only disadvantage if its compressed is that its likely that it will be highly fragmented but you are not going to notice fragmentation if you have an SSD whereas you would with mechanical hard drives, if you want to test the data compression on your existing hard drives you can right click the folder and set the compression attribute to on and answer yes to compress all subfolders, once thats done you can right click again to compare folder sizes, afterwards if you want you can uncompress it by unticking the attribute.

Overall you should then have a very fast system no matter what you are doing and no problems with onboard motherboard raid failing or any other similar dramas.

Cheers
 
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