New Ultimate Gaming PC (REV2.0)

Z

Zer0Cool

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
375
New PC, Final revision, plz take a look.

Well I have revised all my parts & here is what I was able to come up with (see the link below)

This computer will be used for gaming, & for me to learn overclocking (maybe not a great idea lol, ill be careful I promise :D)

COOLER MASTER cosmos S
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16811119150
I was looking at 2 cases the Cosmos Stacker and Cosmos S. Both are very similar in price. Cosmos s in my opinion looks better & all set for water cooling, something I might do in the future.

DFI LP LT P35 T2R LGA 775 Intel P35 Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136039
This has probably been the toughest decision for me. Because I am not going for SLI the P35 mobo looked like the best choice for me. This mobo has 3 pci slots that I need and I heard great things about the overclocking ability as well as great support for Quad Cores

EVGA 512-P3-N871-AR GeForce 9800 GTX(G92)
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16814130339
I have a 24” monitor and this single card solution should work great for me. I know that 8800GS offers a similar performance, but I am solid on this decision

ABS Tagan BZ Series BZ800 ATX12V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817814014
This has also been a tuff choice for me. I know that this psu is overpriced, but I do want the lights that comes with it & the ability to have the removable cables. This psu comes with a lot of extra wires, everything that I might need in the future. 800W is for a future sli that I might do when Nahelm will become available.

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166
I heard great things about this 1066 ram. Not 2 many people had problems with it. I really hope it will be a good overcloker.

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB (X2)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218
I originally was thinking about going with the 7200.11 32mb cache hdd, but after reading reviews this hdd is actually faster. I am still deciding if I should go for raid 0

ASUS Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW (X2)
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16827135156
Don’t know much about this CD-ROM, but people on newegg seems to like it. If you can suggest something better please do, keep in mind I’m trying to have a silent pc.

Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate SP1 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116493&Tpk=32-116-493
In order for me to use the 4G vista 64 is the main option, I decided to go for the SP1 ready to save time.

D-Link DGL-4500 Draft Xtreme N Gaming Router
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127243
This looks like the best gaming router available. Even though I will be suing hardwired connection, I still have people in the house who need wireless signal.

CORSAIR CMXAF1 Fans
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835704001
This is just something something to keep my ram cool after overcloking

Scythe KM01-BK "KAZE MASTER" 5.25" Bay Fan Controller
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16811998038
To have the ability to control the speed of my fans sounds great, especially when I go to sleep to keep the noise down.

Intel Core 2 Quad Q9450 Quad Core
http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=29316
I know some might say go for Q6600, but I’m solid in this decision.

Thermalright ULTIMA-90
http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=25999
Because the Cosmos S case has the 200mm fan on the side, not 2 many big heatsinks will fit in it, and I don’t want to remove the fan. That is why I decided to go for the Ultima 90 and not the True 120. Ultima 90 has almost the identical performance

Noctua NF-B9-1600 92MM
http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=28452
This is a 92mm fan for my Ultima 90

Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120MM
http://www.ncixus.com/products/17749/SFF21F/Scythe/ (X5)
I will be suing this fan to replace my stock fans in the Cosmos S case

SAMSUNG Black 1.44MB 3.5" Internal Floppy Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16821103203
Some people might find it silly having a floppy drive in a gaming pc, but I got it primarily for bios updates

This is my main list, I also will be getting some miscellaneous stuff like PC cable ties…etc

My main question is, do I have everything to build and overclock the PC? (I do have thermal paste already)
 
mgulbran said:
Was the old thread 8 spaces down atm I think not good enough to renew? I'm not gonna speak for all [H] members but i'm quite sure no one wants to log into newegg to see your build. Not trying to troll at all just some pointers that might get you more positive help.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1296294

Just edit and work with that one.
Click to expand...

I have updated the thread all the links are there, the reason I decided to start a new one, because there is A LOT of new parts here.
 
Go back to the other thread and read the comments they left you.

Sorta confused since you yelled near the end of the thread that you don't want crossfire or SLI, lol.

Personally, i'm not a fan of nVIDIA chipset mobo's. Seem like they give way too much trouble, finicky and are pricey as hell (350 for the mobo, when I paid 140 for my DFI T2RS.) But if you really want to go SLI, don't have too many options. I'd go with an intel chipset anyday, especially on trying to get max OC on the quad. Then again, I've heard the 790i is better than the 650i, 680i, 750i and 780i ever were, so maybe those with insight can chime in.

I'm a fan of the intel p35 chipset + 9800gx2 if you HAVE to have SLI.

Anyway...

Get the Corsair 750TX over that OCZ PSU.

Get either the Tuniq 120 or Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme instead of that Zalman.
 
Gaiden133 said:
Go back to the other thread and read the comments they left you.

Sorta confused since you yelled near the end of the thread that you don't want crossfire or SLI, lol.

Personally, i'm not a fan of nVIDIA chipset mobo's. Seem like they give way too much trouble, finicky and are pricey as hell (350 for the mobo, when I paid 140 for my DFI T2RS.) But if you really want to go SLI, don't have too many options. I'd go with an intel chipset anyday, especially on trying to get max OC on the quad. Then again, I've heard the 790i is better than the 650i, 680i, 750i and 780i ever were, so maybe those with insight can chime in.

I'm a fan of the intel p35 chipset + 9800gx2 if you HAVE to have SLI.

Anyway...

Get the Corsair 750TX over that OCZ PSU.

Get either the Tuniq 120 or Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme instead of that Zalman.
Click to expand...

I guess I wasn’t sure as I thought I was when I posted my 1st build thread. Sorry if I yelled or were rude to people. I guess I didn’t know what I want, but one thing u guys were right about, is spending $2800 on a computer and to have a single 9800gtx would be a waist. To tell u the truth I'm still not 100% sure If I really need the sli, but it would be great for future proof games...etc

Unfortunately I cant get the Tuniq 120 or Thermalright 120 because of the 200mm fan that is on the side of the Cosmos S case. I dont know if u guys saw the reviews, but the Ultima 90 is about 2 degrees hotter then the 120, and it would fit in my case. I just need to check if it will fit in the mobo, with this big heatsinks, im not sure...
 
Again, If you have a 24 inch monitor and you're considering one of the 9800-series cards, then you don't need SLI. (You can't even use CrossFire since you're buying an NVIDIA card.) SLI doesn't support multiple monitors either.

Get a better power supply from one of the following brands: Antec (EarthWatts models only), Thermaltake (ToughPower models only), Seasonic, Corsair, Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling. Get a 500W-650W power supply if you stick with one 9800 card, or a 750+W PSU if you end up sticking with SLI anyways.

Speaking of which, the motherboard and the RAM are incompatible with each other. Either get a board that supports DDR2 RAM or buy DDR3 RAM. But since you don't need SLI, buy a P35-based board. Here is the list again, if you've forgotten it earlier.

You can get one of those CPU coolers that we've recommended earlier to fit inside the Cosmos S case -- you just have to remove the 200mm side fan. But if you really intend on performing some major overclocking, consider using water cooling (and check out the Overclocking & Cooling forum here for more details).

Get either the DIR-655 or the DGL-4500 instead... they are both the replacements to the DGL-4300.

Don't spend over $10 a pop on CASE FANS -- there's a reason why we keep recommending the Yate Loons here.

If all of this advice sounds familiar, it should -- this is what we've told you in your previous thread. (In fact, read through the entire thread again. You're starting to repeat the same mistakes we were trying to steer you from earlier.)
 
tiraides said:
Again, If you have a 24 inch monitor and you're considering one of the 9800-series cards, then you don't need SLI. (You can't even use CrossFire since you're buying an NVIDIA card.) SLI doesn't support multiple monitors either.

Get a better power supply from one of the following brands: Antec (EarthWatts models only), Thermaltake (ToughPower models only), Seasonic, Corsair, Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling. Get a 500W-650W power supply if you stick with one 9800 card, or a 750+W PSU if you end up sticking with SLI anyways.

Speaking of which, the motherboard and the RAM are incompatible with each other. Either get a board that supports DDR2 RAM or buy DDR3 RAM. But since you don't need SLI, buy a P35-based board. Here is the list again, if you've forgotten it earlier.

You can get one of those CPU coolers that we've recommended earlier to fit inside the Cosmos S case -- you just have to remove the 200mm side fan. But if you really intend on performing some major overclocking, consider using water cooling (and check out the Overclocking & Cooling forum here for more details).

Get either the DIR-655 or the DGL-4500 instead... they are both the replacements to the DGL-4300.

Don't spend over $10 a pop on CASE FANS -- there's a reason why we keep recommending the Yate Loons here.

If all of this advice sounds familiar, it should -- this is what we've told you in your previous thread. (In fact, read through the entire thread again. You're starting to repeat the same mistakes we were trying to steer you from earlier.)
Click to expand...

I am somewhat confused here...Why did u say the board & the ram that I selected is incompatible? The board is "NVIDIA nForce 790i Ultra SLI DDR3" and the ram is "Patriot 4GB DDR3 SDRAM" Both are DDR3, unless I'm missing something...

I will be using a hardwired connection for my pc, the wireless signal is just for my father (his pc & the router is in the same room) For hardwired connection does it still matter witch router to get out of this 3? DIR-655, DGL-4500, DGL-4300

The Yate Loons that I found on NCIX looks good "Yate Loon D12SM-12C 120MMX20MM Cooling Fan 1800RPM 62CFM 29DB" I guess I can save about $50 if I go with them, thanks.

I think having an Ultima 90 & the 200mm fan on the side of my case, will benefit me more, then having Ultra 120 with no 200mm fan on the side. After all, the performance difference is 2 degrees, and the 200mm might should make it equal + it will cool the rest of the system. I think going water cooling is 2 much for me at this time.

I noticed MOBO's have different FSB support. The most current once like the 790i hase 1600/1333 & the DFI LP LT P35 (the one that I was thinking going with in my other thread) has 1333/1066MHz What does that mean for overcloking? I know that Q9450 requires 1333

Any reason why u didn’t include the DFI LP LT P35 mobo to the P35 list? On the other forums this guy convinced me this is the mobo 4 me (If I don’t want to sli) I also was asking for 3 regular pci slots at that time (2 slots for my pci sound cards, plz don’t ask why2, I just have them & 1 for nice fast network card)


I know I will be spending a nice amount of money on this computer, and I really hope it will last me for some time, but going with ddr2 mobo/ram u think its a wise decision?

Thanks
 
If you want to keep SLI an option, get the MSI P7N Platinum 780i instead and some DDR2 RAM. DDR3 is not worth it.

If you never see yourself going SLI, stick with the DFI P35 board.

Mobo FSB support is for stock speeds. It has nothing to do with OC'ing -- just official CPU compatibility.
 
The mobo/RAM incompatibility was a mistake on my end -- I was looking at both of your threads when I made my post. I saw Patriot and though you were getting the DDR2 1066 kit you mentioned earlier.

Who was "that guy" who recommended to you the DFI LP LT P35? I didn't included it because the ones that I recommended could do the job just as well for a bit less. (Plus, you've already included it earlier -- I was giving you some alternatives.)

And you never answered my earlier question: Why only NewEgg and NCIX?

Again, no matter which "fast" network card you buy, your ISP will likely limit your available bandwidth (unless you're one of the lucky ones with FIOS available in your area).

Right now, DDR3 RAM is not worth the price premium. In a year or so, maybe... but not right now, and (likely) not six months from now.

You don't need to spend so much money on a good performance computer nowadays. All you have to do is buy most of the stuff you want/need now, make incremental upgrades (e.g., CPU, video card) as needed, and perform regular system maintenance to both the hardware and the software. Your computer will last a few years if yo follow those steps.
 
enginurd said:
If you want to keep SLI an option, get the MSI P7N Platinum 780i instead and some DDR2 RAM. DDR3 is not worth it.

If you never see yourself going SLI, stick with the DFI P35 board.

Mobo FSB support is for stock speeds. It has nothing to do with OC'ing -- just official CPU compatibility.
Click to expand...

Thank you

tiraides said:
The mobo/RAM incompatibility was a mistake on my end -- I was looking at both of your threads when I made my post. I saw Patriot and though you were getting the DDR2 1066 kit you mentioned earlier.

Who was "that guy" who recommended to you the DFI LP LT P35? I didn't included it because the ones that I recommended could do the job just as well for a bit less. (Plus, you've already included it earlier -- I was giving you some alternatives.)

And you never answered my earlier question: Why only NewEgg and NCIX?

Again, no matter which "fast" network card you buy, your ISP will likely limit your available bandwidth (unless you're one of the lucky ones with FIOS available in your area).

Right now, DDR3 RAM is not worth the price premium. In a year or so, maybe... but not right now, and (likely) not six months from now.

You don't need to spend so much money on a good performance computer nowadays. All you have to do is buy most of the stuff you want/need now, make incremental upgrades (e.g., CPU, video card) as needed, and perform regular system maintenance to both the hardware and the software. Your computer will last a few years if yo follow those steps.
Click to expand...

I trust Newegg, I ordered from them lots of times & they have a very large selection. NCIX was the alternative website that my friend suggested, and it has all the other parts that newegg was missing, like the Yate Loon & the Ultima 90.

Yes I currently have FIOS, I had it for about 2 years now. 30meg up and 5 down, I love it. I am a professional cs 1.6 player (at least I like to think that way) and having a 100% stable connection for me with the lowest ping possible and having no ping spikes is everything for me.

The main reason why he advised the "DFI LP LT P35" mobo is because I was asking for 3 pci slots. I currently have 2 pci sound cards X-FI Elite Pro & Razer. I use the X-Fi for movies and the razer for games. The 3rd slot I was planning to use for a nice stable (no lag..etc) network card.

Now that you have convinced me back not to go for DDR3 & that Crazy overpriced 790i mobo, I am considering getting the "DFI LP LT P35" Its a little more expensive from what u have suggested, but it will benefit my needs. I hope...

I like th idea for the PSU to have removable cables, that way if I don’t need something I can just take them off. I also will take ur advice and go for 750+ PSU just incase I will go SLI in the future. Can u please make a good selection for me? Something quite, with all the cables that I will ever need, but most important reliable!

I am also not sure what DDR2 ram to get..I know I want 4GB (2 x 2GB). Here is a list of some 4Gb 1066 rams http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820144213

Thank you
 
If you want 750W and modular, go with the Tt Toughpower 750W. Go for the G.Skill DDR2-1000 4GB kit.

$90 - G.Skill 4GB(2x2GB) DDR2-1000 F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ
 
Is this the one u talking about?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153036

Are u sure I will not get any performance boost from 1066 ram, I really dont want to go cheep on the ram $90 is a very nice price, but I'm willing to pay more if I know there will be performance boost.

U also didnt answer the router question "I will be using a hardwired connection for my pc, the wireless signal is just for my father (his pc & the router is in the same room) For hardwired connection does it still matter witch router to get out of this 3? DIR-655, DGL-4500, DGL-4300"

The DIR 655 doesnt have the "GameFuel Priority – Technology" that I think i might like to take extra banwidt from my brothers games. The DGL-4500 & DGL-4300 has it, but 4500 is like $60 more, but like I sad I will be suing hardwired connection, should I just get the DGL-4300?

I am off to bed, and I will talk to u tomorrow. Thank you
 
Zer0Cool said:
Is this the one u talking about?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153036

Are u sure I will not get any performance boost from 1066 ram?
Click to expand...

Yup, thats the one.

Yes, I'm sure you won't notice the difference between DDR2-1000 and DDR2-1066. Its 66Mhz. Actually, its 33Mhz, since RAM is DDR (double data rate). You logically believe you'll notice that? :rolleyes:

I didn't answer the other questions because I don't have answers for them.
 
All three routers each have four Gigabit Ethernet connections -- they combine the hard-wired and wireless routers together. I have the DGL-4300, and from my own personal experience, GameFuel feature gave me no noticeable performance increase in games. (But unlike you, I have a relatively weak cable connection -- I'm not lucky enough to get FIOS in my area. But I digress.) The DIR-655 and the DGL-4500 use 802.11b/g and 802.11n (draft), which gives you more options in regards to wireless connections. (The DGL-4300 uses 802.11b/g, but it was discontinued in favor of the DGL-4500.) Then again, if you are using only a hard-wired connection -- and wireless capability is not even a remote consideration for the future -- just find yourself an inexpensive multi-port (4 or more) Gigabit router. D-Link and/or Linksys/Cisco are good choices, though there may be other recommendations.

If you really want DDR2 1066 RAM, get this 4GB kit from Patriot. (RAM speed, not latency, will determine how far you can overclock a processor, so don't pay more for RAM at a lower latency/with tighter timings.) But you're not going to see much improvement in regards to overclocking over DDR2 1000 RAM (533MHz vs. 500MHz).
 
Thank you.


Hmm I wonder why is there no reviews about this ram on newegg...

I'm sure I will have more queston tomorrow.

good night
 
Don't rely on NewEgg reviews -- most (at least 75%) of them are made by people who have no experience with computers other than turning one on and playing games on it. In fact, the reviews from most online retailers are like NewEgg's, so rely on a review made by a hardware-based site or forum, like here at the [H].

Not all of the RAM listed is going to be reviewed everywhere -- there are way too many available options out there. The brands that we do recommend here are the ones that we ourselves have used, either now or in the past, and have had little to no problems with. Then again, everyone has (heard) at least one horror story with every popular "name brand" recommended here.
 
Well I have made modifications in my 1st top post.

The Yate Loon that I was thinking of getting is BO on NCIX, but they have the "Scythe S-FLEX" with the almost exact same specs, (28.0DBA 63.7CFM) and they are only $3 more $11 in total. The $3 difference is nothing, plus u sad it ur self Scythe S-FLEX will last longer. http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=17749

Lots of people told me that "WD6400AAKS" HDD are faster then the 7200.11 once, is that true? Here is the link to the "Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB" Should I go with the "WD6400AAKS" or the 7200.11 ??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218

Thanks
 
$3 more for an S-Flex? You must be overpaying for that Yate Loon. The Yate Loon should be $3.50. Just get it at jab-tech like everyone else on this forum, including myself. Its also where I got my Ultima90 and other S-Flex fans. I didn't like the shipping charge from NCIXUS. Its up to you. I get great service from jab-tech.

Yup, until Seagate switches to 320GB platters. Here, read this thread:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1284410
 
Unfortunately I wasn’t able to find the 7200.11 perfrormance chart in that link, but the WD AAKS model worked good with about 13ms access time. So just to confirm this u think I should go with the AAKS model right not the 7200.11 even tho it has 32mg cache?

Also would the "SE16 WD6400AAKS" model perform almost the same as the "SE16 WD7500AAKS" there is $10 difference.

What do u think about the raid 0 for my drivers? Will I see faster loading times for Games/OS?

I didnt look that the jab-tech, but I will. Also how do u like ur Ultima 90? its a great cooler right?

Thanks
 
That link has a bunch of 'cuda.11 screenshots. The WD 750GB uses 250GB platters. The 640GB uses 320GB platters. If you look at the various benchmarks from that thread, drives using the 320GB platter are faster than drives, in the same product line, using the 250GB platter. The 750GB WD can do about 75MB/s while the 640GB can do 90MB/s. Platter density improves transfer speeds much more than larger cache sizes.

I think RAID0 is only for people who don't mind losing data.

Ultima90 is great. It performs identical to my Tuniq Tower, the former cooling champ. It keeps my E6750 @ 3.8Ghz 1.55v really cool at 52°C during full load.
 
enginurd said:
That link has a bunch of 'cuda.11 screenshots. The WD 750GB uses 250GB platters. The 640GB uses 320GB platters. If you look at the various benchmarks from that thread, drives using the 320GB platter are faster than drives, in the same product line, using the 250GB platter. The 750GB WD can do about 75MB/s while the 640GB can do 90MB/s. Platter density improves transfer speeds much more than larger cache sizes.

I think RAID0 is only for people who don't mind losing data.

Ultima90 is great. It performs identical to my Tuniq Tower, the former cooling champ. It keeps my E6750 @ 3.8Ghz 1.55v really cool at 52°C during full load.
Click to expand...

Thank you

I have again updated my original post with the "WD6400AAKS" HDD

Any thoughts on the CD-ROM I have chosen? I will go with 2, just incase 1 might fail. The one that I have selected has the "Light Scribe" Really not a big deal, I very rarely use it, but if u think I can benefit from something better plz let me know. http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16827135156

I do have external 500G hdd that I use to store all my date, I currently have the raid 0 setup. So what u saying is there is a very small performance increase in raid 0 right? If that is the case, maybe u right about not doing it...

Also is this a good spec for quite/good air flow fan? CFM: 62.0
dB: 28.5 ??? is is the 28.5dba loud??

http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120x120x20mm-Case-Fan-D12SM-12C-Medium-Speed-pr-3826.html
 
RAID0 speed also depends on the drives you use. I get 112MB/s with two 'cuda.10 drives in RAID0. A single WD6400AAKS gets 90MB/s. I'm pretty sure two of the new KS drives in RAID0 would be faster than the 'cudas I have. If the performance gain outweighs the risk of data loss for you, then go ahead. If you have a good backup solution and don't mind rebuilding/re-imaging the array if it goes down, then by all means, go for it.

"Loud" is subjective. I think 28dB isn't loud at all while my roommate thinks 28dB is rather loud. Many people consider 25dB as their threshold, while others use 30 or 20. Check out reviews at spcr and listen to their fan recordings and read their reviews if you want something quiet. Personally, I think you'll be fine with the med. speed Yate Loon you linked to.

I heard the Asus DVDRW was quiet, but I have no first hand experience. I know for a fact that Lite-Ons are pretty damn loud when spinning up. Samsungs are the quiet ones, SH-S203B or S203N (with lightscribe).
 
Thank you for that response enginurd,

I think I have 2 good options here, I can ether go for a SAMSUNG Black http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151154
OR
ASUS Black http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16827135156

What u think? If u have something better in mind, let me know.


Also I want to get a Floppy Drive, u know for like BIOS and stuff. U think this is a good one?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16821103203

Because the DVD-Drive, Floppy Drive & the HDD are OEM I asume I will need to get cables? Can u guys help me get the right cables plz? Something good fast & realiable.

I also decided to get the D-Link DGL-4500.

The Yate Loon fans on the jab tech are $5 the Scythe S-FLEX on NCIX are $10 because I will be buying other parts from ncix, the shipping on the fans will most likely be non existent, due to other heavier products, so I might loose $10 or so, not a big deal.

I have another question that bothered me for a long time. The motherboard that I’m getting has 2 version one is the UT and the other is LT. The only major difference that I see is the heatsink. Witch model should I get? Will the UT be better for cooling because of the bigger heatsink?

DFI LP UT P35 T2R
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136037

DFI LP LT P35 T2R
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136039


Thank you
 
enginurd said:
The mobo you choose should come with the necessary cables. If you need extra or want different cables, check svc.com. There are other store links in the GenHard FAQ.

Here's a side-by-side of the DFI boards:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...2E16813136043,N82E16813136039,N82E16813136037
Click to expand...

Thank you sir,

I know that the mobo comes with all the wires because its retail.

I was asking about the DVD-Rom, HDD, Floppy All of them are OEM. can u plz give me a list of wires I will need for this products? And any other wires that I might be missing.

Thanks
 
Zer0Cool said:
I know that the mobo comes with all the wires because its retail. I was asking about the DVD-Rom, HDD, Floppy All of them are OEM. can u plz give me a list of wires I will need for this products? And any other wires that I might be missing.
Click to expand...

I'm growing tired of this redundancy. Maybe I wasn't clear enough. If you get either of those DFI boards, they come with all the necessary data cables for 4x SATA drives, 1x FDD, and 2x IDE drives. If you get a SATA optical drive, you'll need a SATA data cable, which comes with the motherboard. If you get a SATA HDD, you'll need a SATA data cable, which comes with the motherboard. If you get a FDD, you'll need a FDD data cable, which comes with the motherboard. If you need more than 4x SATA cables, get them from svc.com. If you don't like svc.com, there are other etailers listed in the GenHard FAQ WLWC.
 
Thank you enginurd.

I'm sorry for misunderstanding, I know I am asking lots of dumb questions here, but I very much appreciate ur help.

IDD = CD-Rom connection
SATA = HDD
What about the Floppy drive? What connection does it use, I assume the mobo has the wire?

I also will be getting the "Scythe KM01-BK "KAZE MASTER" 5.25" Bay Fan Controller" Can u plz tell me if I will be able to piggyback 3 fans into one controller (total 4) I assume it has to do with how much V it can take? The 3 fans are the "Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120MM" http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=17749

and here is the fan controller
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998038

Thank you enginurd
 
No idea about the fan controller.

Heh, I should've known "FDD" was going to confuse you. The floppy disk drive, aka FDD, needs a Floppy Disk Drive (parallel, 34-pin) data cable, aka FDD data cable, and it comes with the motherboard.
 
I don't like repeating myself often, and I'm not going to here.

But I have to ask: Why are you ignoring most (if not all) of the advice we've given you so far?
 
tiraides said:
I don't like repeating myself often, and I'm not going to here.

But I have to ask: Why are you ignoring most (if not all) of the advice we've given you so far?
Click to expand...

I am not sure what u mean? If u talking about the fans, I don’t see much reason to order from a different website that I personally don’t know in order to save $20 on a $2000 computer. It would be much easier to just order all the parts from newegg & ncix, unless there is a good discount somewhere else.

I have modified most of the parts in my pc in according to ur suggestions, (aside from the mobo) and some miscellaneous stuff like the fan controller...etc I also changed the ram to G.SKILL 4GB 1066 because the other patriot memory , sad was ONLY (Designed to work only in systems using NVIDIA 680I & 780I chipsets) + the g skill has 84% positive reviews out of 100 people.

I very much value all of ur suggestions, please help me finish getting the parts for this PC.

Thanks you
 
Zer0Cool said:
The DIR 655 doesnt have the "GameFuel Priority – Technology" that I think i might like to take extra banwidt from my brothers games. The DGL-4500 & DGL-4300 has it, but 4500 is like $60 more, but like I sad I will be suing hardwired connection, should I just get the DGL-4300?
Click to expand...

That "GameFuel" tech is actually just a set of QoS settings for the router that prioritizes game data over everything else. If you know what you're doing, you can achieve the same effect, if any, with any router that supports QoS. But setting QoS rules is a bit difficult, at least for me anyway.

Just get the DGL-4500 if you have cash to burn. If not, stay with the DGL-655.
 
lol, so the Cosmos looks ugly with a FDD? :p Anyhow, if you REALLY want a FDD, get the mitsumi FDD + CR all in one instead. It should be about $20.
 
Dont know why it would look ugly...& what is CR?

I have also updated my main post, please take a look. I think I'm ready to order.
 
Card reader.

Save $55 and get some DDR2-1000 G.Skills instead. No point in paying $55 for "66Mhz." And what speed do you want them to reach? DDR2-1000 is a base FSB of 500. I doubt the mobo can push such a high FSB with a quadcore, but even if it can, how much higher do you want to go? cuz 8*500=4Ghz, and I doubt you can reach that with an Ultima90 on that Q9450.

Avoid Tagan. They accused [H] of not giving them a good review because Tagan didn't pay. They got a bad review because the PSU didnt perform up to par. In any case, there are much better choices for your needs, like the Corsair 750W or Tt Toughpower 750W Modular.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top