New Lian Li PC- Q11 itx case : Specification & Feature

Don't seem to be able to find it in The Netherlands. Anyone suggestion?
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ebay)

combined with a Corsair H60 and a Noctua 140mm fan for my setup.
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You don't need adapter,because Noctua 140mm strange fan,it can be used just like 120mm and 140 mm fan,there include adapters,and You can tie water cooling from one side and install it in case with extenders from another.(It will be experiment,I didn't do it ) here you can find adapter

Should i face the fan of my PSU to the cpu or away from it?
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I tried with face to CPU,and away,and I didn't see the difference

Should the H50/H60 be blowing air in or out?
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When you use only CPU without graphic card,it don't matter

Do you happen to know what the RPM is of the standard 140mm fan in this case?
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No,I don't know,but I change standart 140mm fan to Apolish Vegas,and I see the difference between them
 
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Thanks for the valuable info. I will find an alternative fan for the existing 140mm then.

I wonder if the Silverstone ST45SF 450W psu would be sufficient for my setup..a i7-2600K cpu...would save me some space then and the cables are rather short, not modular, but still not many cables i think. I only need to use 2 sata cables (2hdd,1dvd). It would give me possibility to put in an ThermalRight AXP-140 with fan then...would be easier to see dust building up on the fan at times.
Hope someone can give me a fast reply so i can still cancel my Silverstone ST50F-P 500W psu on order then. Thx. Can't wait to get it build.
 
Better not get the ST45SF...some people mention about a whining sound and clicks on newegg.com...so i stick to the ST50F-P now.
 
Silverstone acknowledged that issue and came out with a new model. Check this thread. It says "2.0" on the PSU. If you get 1.1, contact Silverstone and they should replace it for you.
 
@illram

This sounds great!..would really solve my space problem then.
Do you have good experience with the ST45SF?
Will it be enough for my setup? From most of the PSU power calculators on the websites, i actually need to add 100W more up to it to be safe as people suggested...i just wonder if i could get this 450W instead of the 500W psu??

My multimedia pc setup:
cpu i7-2600K (not overclocked)
cpu cooler: Corsair H60
ram 2x 4GB Geil SODIMM DDR3 1.5V GS34GB1333C9SC
motherboard Asus P8H67-I Deluxe B3
Dvd burner: Plextor PX-L890SA (sata)
Harddisk boot: 2.5 Intel X25-M 80GB ssd (sata)
Harddisk data: 2.5 Western Digital Scorpio 7200rpm 500GB (sata)
USB 2.0 device 1: Wireless Logitech keyboard
USB 2.0 device 2: Wired Logitech trackball mouse
USB 2.0 device 3: Logitech Quickcam Pro 4000
USB 2.0 device 4: Wireless Perific mouse (against RSI, for mouse switching)
Optional PCI-e 2.0 16x videocard if Intel HD3000 Graphics insufficient, passive Saphire ATI HD5670 card

Hope to get some decision before Monday really. Thanks a lot. Happy New Year all!

Edit: just another thought...are there any holders to insert in the 2 pci-e covers at the back of the case only (not on motherboard), just to hold another 120mm fan?...so it blows air up over the motherboard to a fanless Thermalright AXP-140?...it would make the case cooler i think...and solve everything about space when u put a normal ATX psu...keeping the 140mm front fan untouched. Only an option if you don't use a graphics card of course.
 
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I've had good experience with the ST45SF on my wife's mitx build (in a Silverstone SG05 case) and it is only a 1.1 model. The standard wisdom with these PSUs prior to the model 2 version is that the "issues" wouldn't show up until somebody was pulling more than 300W and even then it really depended on the particular unit. To be blunt, you aren't even close to pulling 300W with your setup.

My wife's machine consists of:
Cpu - i5-2400 (95W TDP but is actually probably more like 65W since the onboard video is not being used)
cpu cooler: Prolimatech Samuel 17 with Scythe PWM fan
motherboard: Asus P8H67-I Deluxe B3
memory: 2x 4GB Geil SODIMM DDR3 1.5V
DVD burner: slimline lite-on model, forget exact number
Hard disk boot: Crucial M3 64GB SSD
Hard disk data: Western Digital Scorpio 7200 rpm 320 GB
Graphics: Nividia GTX 460 768 GB

When I add up the wattage requirements of that system, it comes out to about 280W at max load (the GPU is responsible for 160-170W of that). Yours is going to be quite a bit less than that. My ballpark calculation for your system with the HD3000 graphics is that it would pull somewhere around 130W and I may still be estimating too high. According to reviews I've seen of the AMD 5670, it pulls around 95-100W at full load. So that might put you around 230W. That's going to be a walk in the park for the ST45SF.

As far as my wife's system that has similar components to yours, it's actually pretty quiet. I do have PWM fans on everything and I do use the Asus fan controller software to lower the fan speeds down to around 800 rpm when idling. It does spin up and have some modest fan whoosh when gaming (still not to annoying levels for me but noticeable). The SG05 case puts the graphics card right next to breather holes punched in the case, though, so it does not contain video card noise at all. I would imagine that the PC-Q11 helps contain noise a bit better.
 
It's always hard to gauge noise levels as each person's ear & noise tolerance is different. I do not have the ST45SF but I agree with DesertCat that 450 watts will more than adequately cover your needs. Its small size will make working in the q11 much easier also.

I have the ST50SF in my q11, and although modular, it's larger size made the build a little more difficult and the premium on space made it more difficult to deal with the thick and hard-to-bend-in-a-tight-space 24 pin power cable. It also happens to be the noisiest thing in my case. (Relative, of course, as the whole build is pretty quiet once all the fans are turned down.)

I can say the 140mm fan that comes with the case is very quiet, even at full blast. You will not regret buying this case PcRookie, I still look at it and think "damn, that's slick!"
 
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Ok, you guys convinced me. I cancelled the ST50F-P psu and got the ST45SF on order together with a H60 cooler. Will let you know of the progress later. Thanks again.
 
After seeing this thread, I immediately went ahead and purchased my parts for my long postponed SFF build. Here's the parts:

Case: Lian-Li PC-Q11B (of course..)
CPU: Intel i5 2400 (plenty of power for me, no need for overclocking)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2
MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-H61N-USB3 mITX
GPU: XFX HD-687A-ZHFC HD 6870 (Shortest 6870 I could find + not bad price after rebate)
GPU Cooler: Coolink GFXChilla
SSD: Crucial M4 64GB (boot drive; recycled from before)
HDD: WD Blue 640GB (storage; also recycled from another build)
PSU: Corsair CX500 V2
RAM: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) PSD38G1600KH
ODD: Samsung SATA DVD Burner
Extras: Cooler Master 140mm Fan (will undervolt-mod it for lower acoustics)

My only fear is that the Scythe Big Shuriken 2 might clash with the PCI-E port/GPU card because it is a large cooler and the CPU socket on the motherboard is awfully close to the PCI-E slot. Hopefully, I can wing it. As for the Big Shuriken 2's height, I'm not too worry about that.

May I also add that, thanks to this thread, you guys completely converted my decision from buying a Silverstone SG05B (w/ 450w PSU) to this case. Winning!
 
So I posted earlier my first assembly of my modded Q11b.

Here are the updated pictures with my new christmas present, Corsair H80 system.

First before Picture.

100_0266s.jpg


And now the new pictures.

100_0269s.jpg

100_0271s.jpg

100_0274s.jpg


Looking at those, I need to work on the cable management a little.

Went from 70c under load to 45c under load @ 4GHz.
 
@nlancaster; I must say, I like your design/mod way better than the original!
 
Hello,

it is my first post here, sorry in advance if not the right topic.

I am looking to build a high-quality miniITX PC in a Lian-Li PC-Q11 (or similar size and quality case), it need to be a good gamer and extremely silent.

I honestly don't build a pc since some years and I'm not update to last tech news.
Can some expert advice me top quality and top silent part to use in my build?

CPU Intel i5 2500
CPU heatsink?
Motherboard?
PSU ~500W?
2x4GB RAM?
SSD HD?
GPU GTX560?

As said I need to get best silence from it. I have doubts that fanless PSU or passive CPU heatsink could work, but at least without load I would like it to be close to fanless noise. I am willing to replace all stock fans or stock heatsink even from GPU that I imagine will be the most audible under load.

I'm just starting this project but any help will be apprecieted.

Thanks guys!
 
Extremely silent and Gaming in a stock Q11 may not go well together. The air flow on the stock case is not that great. You should look into a few of the mods, like the blowhole video cooler, and my mod to get some idea on how to improve the airflow. I built my mod above with either the water cooler i used, or a tower heatsink in mind. But even my setup is not completly quite, the GPU fan spins up pretty loud during BF3.

From what I have seen your build should be fairly quiet, just not silent.

Get a H67 motherboard, Thermalrigth AXP-140 and a skyth 12mm fan should work well be fairly quite, and most importatly fit in the stock Q11 without modding.
 
Thanks yoru mod is great, I think that airflow should be default.
I don't think it will be so easy to make it, maybe a fan hole at the bottom lowering GPU temps will be easier for me.

I pretty much read all the pages of the thread and I understand that I should look for quiet instead of silent. At least on idle I was looking for extremly silent.

Anyway thanks, my idea are now clearer:

CPU: Intel i5 2500
CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP-140 + Skyth 12mm
M/B: ASUS P8H67-I Deluxe mini-ITX H67
PSU: Silverstone Strider Plus ST50F-P + PP05 Short Cable Kit
2x4GB RAM?
SSD HD?
GPU GTX560?

Sure I will updatea nd post my complete build pics on the thread once completed.
 
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Today i built my system. I am happy i went for the ST45SF 450W psu. I am really happy that 450W was enough for my system.

It was a real pain to build in a small space. The H60 radiator almost did not fit. It nearly touched the SO-DIMM memory on the Asus P8H67-I Deluxe B3 motherboard. Pressing the 140mm fan in, it touched the 20 pins USB 3.0 cable, but still manage to put the fan into place..lucky me.

Would like to show the pics of my system, but only url's are allowed. I used the standard 140mm fan, followed by a Bitspower 140-120 fan adapter, some short screws to fasten the H60 radiator.
I got idle temps around 25-36C and 30 minutes prime95 gave me 65C. The standard fan seems to be only 900/1000rpm. I would like to make it cooler...should i go for 1200rpm Noiseblocker fan and put another 120mm fan in front of the radiator?...i think i might still have enough space to squeeze a 120mm between the radiator and the PSU...i would like to cool the motherboard components as well.

Also i used the standard thermal paste that was on the H60 pump. Should i have replaced it with MX-4?
One strange thing i noticed was some chitter sound from the H60 pump...is this normal?
The bios is telling me the pump is running at 4200 rpm??? is okay?
The pump is according to Corsair instructions not attached to the cpu-fan pins on the motherboard but to a fan pins. The 140mm fan is attached to the cpu-fan pins.

I hope someone can give me some advice for a 120mm fan and a 140mm fan to cool this baby down. It will be the last time i will every open this case again i hope.

The Silverstone ST45ST 450W i got was version 2.0 by the way. Also Windows 7 64bit gave the Intel HD3000 graphics a 6.4..fast enough for movies :)
Another thing i want to mention is that the PowerLED has 3 pins, but the motherboard only uses 2; i had to use a needle to take out the green wire and insert it into the middle position of the plug.

Thanks everyone for previous advices.

EDIT: this is the exact same noise i get... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJhQcBXkM8k
EDIT2: Corsair advices me to lay the case flat for 6 hours so the pump is horizontal...hope this get rid of the noise...will see after 6 hours.
 
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PcRookie
Noiseblocker fan and put another 120mm fan in front of the radiator?
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Yes,you need to change front fan,I had changed on Enermax apollish vegas,it's much better,because have much more CFM and PRM
 
Thanks Azur for the suggestion, but i think the Apolish Vegas will make a lot of noise. I currently have this fan in another case. I don't need any leds inside the PC-Q11 actually, might waste some more power for that. Besides the 140mm fan is connect as the cpu-fan so i can't control the loudness then...i guess i should stick to a fan lower than 1400rpm for silence.

Here a pic of my system now:

 
The Asus P8H67-I Deluxe supports 4-pin PWM fans on both the CPU_Fan and the CHA_FAN connectors. Those used along with the Asus Fan Xpert software will allow you to set your own curve for how fast the fans spin at a particular CPU heat level. Since you are setting your own curve, you can make it so a particular fan never reaches its highest rpm. That should open up options for you if you are worried that a particular fan will be too loud at its highest settings.

On my wife's SG05 with this motherboard, I equipped her Samuel 17 CPU cooler and the front of the case with Scythe SY1225SL12LM-P fans (200-1300 rpm, US Newegg link here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185144 ) . Using FanXpert, I have them idling at ~60% fan speed (around 800 rpm) and ramping up to 100% if the CPU hits 55°C. I really like this as a solution because it allows me to make the system quiet as a whisper while web surfing etc. but able to blow pretty good air while gaming or other CPU intensive tasks.

In terms of a replacement 140mm fan, I read good things about the Akasa Viper 140mm. It is a 600-1600 rpm PWM fan, which would allow you to dial it in to your cooling and acceptable noise levels. Here is a link to one vendor where it is available, mostly so you can get the specs and info. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...WM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_AK-FN063.html

Glad that the Silverstone PSU worked out for you. :)
 
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Hi there PcRookie

Congratulations on your build abd in answer to your questions here are a few tips

Your H60 will benefit from a 2nd fan, this is the ideal set up as it pushes more air through rad.

The H60 pump runs at 4500 rpm at 12v, corsair instructions sugest you plug the pump into a 3 pin case fan header.

Nothing wrong with the tim compound that comes pre applied on the H60 its good stuff.

The noise you mention could be air bubbles in the pump, corsair suggest to placing the case so pump is horizontal overnight as you mentioned.

As for fan recomendations, your motherboard should have at least a pwm header for cpu fan, and using a pwm fan means the fan will spin slowly at idle and ramp up speed under load., if you want to power 2 fans from the same header get a pwm Y spliter lead.

The best 140mm pwm fan is the TY140, the only problem is that that the mounting holes are 120mm, dont know if this a problem for your case, there isnt a lot of choice when it comes to 140mm pwm fans, and for 120mm fan I would suggest Noiseblocker PWM, I would have also suggested a noiseblocker for a 140mm fan but they dont make a pwm version.
 
What willl be more quiet between the small SFX ST45SF and the standard ST50F-P + Short Cable Kit? Anyone have experience with both?

They are both rated from Silverstone at a minimum 18dBa, but shouldn't the larger 12mm fan have better sound quality and be less audible compared to the higher pitch sound af a small 80mm fan?
 
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I have already got my PSU Silverstone ST45ST 450W,I donn't know why but version is 1.1,but I do not hear any sound and clicks,and it's really quiet
 
I think it cannot be assumed that any PSU with a fan is going to run at the minimum fan speed without modding this case for better airflow, so ignore minimum dba ratings, for what it is worth. If you orient the PSU fan facing the mobo, either the fan is sucking in hot air from the mobo, or it is "fighting" for air against a nearby downwards facing CPU fan that is pushing air onto the motherboard. If you orient it towards the left panel, it is stuck right up against the panel with maybe a few mm of clearance, fighting for air. In either of these scenarios the fan is doing more work than it would be in a normal case with optimum air flow, hence I would not depend on manufacturer's minimum dba ratings (which are rarely accurate anyway.) This is especially true if you plan on putting a video card in the system which will generate additional heat.

All things being equal though, yes a larger fan will generally be quieter than the small one. That was my thought process, at least. (But I have not personally tested both, unfortunately.)

I was also initially worried about the 40 c maximum rating for the ST50F-P but thankfully I have never run into problems with that, even after heavy gaming. At idle or doing light tasks like web browsing I can hear a very quiet woosh of air from the case, I have not tested how much of this noise is generated by the ST50 however so I cannot definitively comment on its noise level, but when I did all my research I came to the conclusion it was one of the quietest modular & small ATX PSUs at or above 500w you could buy.
 
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Azur said:
I have already got my PSU Silverstone ST45ST 450W,I donn't know why but version is 1.1,but I do not hear any sound and clicks,and it's really quiet
Click to expand...

The reports say these appear if you demand in excess of 300W from the PSU.
 
@DersertCat:

Thanks for the power managed fan suggestions. I will look into it. Problem is, i only have the cpu-fan connection to be used for the 140mm fan. The other case-fan connection is taken by my H60 pump.

The pump and the fan are now only 3 pins. So i can only attach 1 fan to the motherboard and the other, if i place a 120mm fan behind my radiator, will be connected to a molex connection.
I hope sticking 1 or 2 more fans will not exceed the used power for my powersupply.

Is there any difference if you plug in a fan on the motherboard 3/4pin or to a molex? Will molex not keep the fan running at full speed all the time?

If i put the combination 140mm fan -> fan adapter -> radiator -> 120mm fan, how do both fans be in sync with airflow?...i mean is there not one blowing harder than the other then?


@jrturbo:

A 2nd fan will be connected to a molex connector in my case. Read above my worries.

About the H60 noise..it was not present when the case was flat..i will check another time if the noise is still present when the case is standing. I did my 6 hours laying it horizontally already.

About the pwm Y splitter. Will this work for 2 different fans? A 120mm and 140mm with different rpm's?
So i can just use such a splitter with the cpu-fan connection on the motherboard and supply extra power to it with the molex connector? Both fans will be adjusted to produce the same airflow???
Is the best way to use a Y splitter with 2 fans or 1 on cpu fan and other on molex? I am talking about both fans that surround my H60 radiator now.




I just opened up my case again to see if there is room for a 2nd fan near the radiator.
Unfortunately the tubes of the pump is blocking it. Underneath the tubes is the screw to fasten the foot of the pump. Strangely my 4 screws on the pump only could be fastened by hand, there was no cross or line to be used with a screwdriver.

I got a few solutions to add another fan between the psu and the radiator. All must have a grill since the psu cables are rather near.

1) i move the fan with radiator to the right, higher up, away from the motherboard...but then the whole block is loose and i need to find a way to fasten it. Then i can add a normal 120x120x25mm fan with gril (hopefully).

2) i add a Scythe 120mm slim fan (1.5cm) between the radiator and psu at current situation with a grill..it might fit, not sure...or the pump tubes/right bottom screw might be blocking again. Problem also is, i don't have short screws to tighten this Scythe fan into the radiator then. I might need to cut down some of the original screws of the H60.

3) i rotate the pump 90/180/270 degrees clockwise so that the tubes are not in the way. I wonder if this would do any harm to the pump, since the Corsair words on the pump is not horizontally readable anymore. With the free space i could add a normal 120x120x25mm fan.

For all 3 options mentioned above, the space between the psu and radiator is still minimal. I wonder if above 3 solutions will add to some airflow benefit, since the 120mm fan will be blowing most of the time to the psu and bouncing air back. Half of the fan is blocked by the psu i think.

Another thought is still to put some 120mm fan with grill at the bottom, on top of my 2.5 harddisk housing to blow air up. I don't know if this will be good for airflow. I found something like this.

http://www.aquatuning.nl/product_in...Radiator-Mounting-Bracket-Set--6-32-UNC-.html

or this one

http://www.aquatuning.nl/product_info.php/info/p12394_XSPC-Radiator-Mounting-bracket-kit--M4-.html

Are the fan screws M4 type?

I could take out the harddisk plate without taking the whole pc apart again, drill some holes at the harddisk plate on the right spot (taking the harddisks location in account)...fasten these 4 stands and then i need to make the holes bigger on top of each stand to accept fan screws (if big enough) and mount a 120mm fan. I can plug this fan on the last free molex on my psu to blow air up and not adding a fan behind the radiator, but i must know the height of these stands first. I got lots of unused space at the bottom of my case and this is perfect for it.

Anyways, just some thoughts...i will replace the 140mm fan soon if i made my decision which fan to get.
 
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PcRookie said:
@DersertCat:

Thanks for the power managed fan suggestions. I will look into it. Problem is, i only have the cpu-fan connection to be used for the 140mm fan. The other case-fan connection is taken by my H60 pump.

The pump and the fan are now only 3 pins. So i can only attach 1 fan to the motherboard and the other, if i place a 120mm fan behind my radiator, will be connected to a molex connection.
I hope sticking 1 or 2 more fans will not exceed the used power for my powersupply.

Is there any difference if you plug in a fan on the motherboard 3/4pin or to a molex? Will molex not keep the fan running at full speed all the time?

If i put the combination 140mm fan -> fan adapter -> radiator -> 120mm fan, how do both fans be in sync with airflow?...i mean is there not one blowing harder than the other then?
Click to expand...

If you plug straight into a molex adapter the fan will run at full speed all of the time. Unless your motherboard is using some sort of voltage control on its 3 pin fan connectors, those will be running full speed as well.

One option that occurs to me, since you have no need to install a video card, is that you could actually install a little fan controller in one of your expansion brackets. There are probably others out there, but this one from Xigmatek allows you to use one molex plug from your PSU and includes three 3-pin connectors for additional case fans ( http://www.xigmatek.com/product.php?productid=94&type=feature ). That may help you get around some of your limitations for fan connectors. One potential downside is that the little knob is going to control all of the fans the same way, so you won't have individual rpm control if you want that. In addition, your fan speed will be entirely manually controlled by this knob (won't automatically ramp up with more heat), but some people prefer that.

I would say you shouldn't have to worry about your fans pulling too much load from your PSU. They are a fairly minor hit in terms of overall system power. Depending on the rpm, size, etc. a single fan usually only pulls about 2-5 watts. Manufacturers usually only list the amps and volts, but you can calculate the wattage from that (Watts = Amps x volts; so for case fans Watts = amps x 12).

In a push-pull fan arrangement on a cpu cooler, I think it is ideal that the two fans are of the same make and rpm. If two of the same fan cannot be attached to your radiator, I think I would try to purchase a second fan with approximately the same airflow (cfm) as the first. A minor imbalance in air flow rate between the two shouldn't be a big deal, as air can escape around the edges of the fans easily enough, but I wouldn't want the two fans to be wildly out of whack.
 
@DesertCat

Thanks for the explanation and tip. Actually i thought maybe i can connect the H60 pump to a molex now and use both pwm pins on the motherboard. I asked Corsair to confirm this and if i can turn my pump 90/180/270 degrees.
I am checking the pwm fans now. If the fans are pwm by my motherboard do i still have to worry about their cfm/m3 airflow needs to be matching?..or will pwm take care of it?
Both your suggested pwm fans, akasa and scythe are interesting and suitable for me.
 
Just to clarify, the only scenario where I'm thinking about matching airflow is if you have your H60 sandwiched between two fans (one on the upstream and one on the downstream side). If that's not the case, I wouldn't worry about it. If you are going to sandwich it, I would think it would be best if the two fans are moving approximately the same amount of air. If you are wanting to use a PWM fan on the downstream side while letting the upstream side run at full speed all of the time, I would probably shoot for having the approximate match in their airflow be at the top end. This would cause a bit of a mismatch when the computer was idling but that's when cooling is the least important.
 
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Yes, i will sandwich the H60 radiator..so i try to match the airflow of both fans, but i think this might be a little bit difficult with pwm fans, since i don't know at what rpm they will match. I checked all the fans and so far i can only see the 120mm Noiseblocker PL-2 fan and 140mm Noiseblocker BlackSilientPro PK-2 matching each other according to the specs at 93 m3/h...so mayb i better stick to non-pwm. These fans seems to be 20dB..just not sure if this is accurate. I keep reading people having their fan on 5V or 12V...what does this mean? 5V is on motherboard and 12V is on molex?
Scythe's gentle typhoon 1450rpm, 120mm fans i have good experience with, but i could not find a matching 140mm fan.
The 120mm + 140mm BeQuiet Shadow Wings would be nice, are pwm, but unfortunately they got a weird attachment system..not usable for the case.

I will take out the Bitspower fan adapter maybe and try to get a slimmer Koolance plate like another user here. This way i get the whole block more upfront and less near the H60 tubes.

FYI: Corsair confirmed i can turn my pump 90/180/270 clockwise, but i just noticed from the motherboard schema that transistors will be in its way. I don't want to reinstall the pump also. Corsair also confirmed i can connect the pump to a molex connector.
 
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PcRookie said:
I keep reading people having their fan on 5V or 12V...what does this mean? 5V is on motherboard and 12V is on molex?
Click to expand...

There a number of ways of going about this, but the typical thing is to have an in-line adapter that reduces the voltage delivered to the fan. The little adapter I link below from Nexus allows a person to choose from running the fan at 5V, 7V, or 12V depending which plug they use (coming from a 12V molex connector). This is another way of controlling fan speed when you don't have a regular fan controller or PWM. Using one of these, however, will result in one speed for a particular voltage.
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=3-speed_fan_cable.html?id=xT6DhibA

This approach has long been one used by those trying to reduce fan noise in htpcs.
 
Removed all previous fan setups and came up with final one...H60 with 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm! Could not rest until perfection ;-)

 
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So I'm FINALLY going to post pictures of my Q11. I built it back... oh like in June of last year. Decided to clean up the wiring a bit when I was bored the other day and I remembered to take some pictures. Forgive me, the lighting wasn't the best, nor is the camera on the Nexus S spectacular.

Specs are as follows:
  • Intel i3-2100
  • Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8GB
  • Gigabyte GA-H67N-USB3-B3
  • EVGA GTX570HD SC
  • Corsair HX520W
  • Intel Series 310 80GB SSD

You can see my wiring here without the fan and PSU.


Here's the wiring with the PCI-e power cables and fan thrown in.


You can see how tight the fit is.


And here's how she finally looked like with the PSU thrown in there.


Anyway, just wanted to get some feedback on the build (and toot my own horn about how good the wiring is, or so I think). I was also thinking of watercooling the whole build. After seeing how that PNY CPU/GPU combo cooler performed with the GTX580, I bounced the idea of throwing a full block GPU cooler, a Koolance CPU-370, and to top it all off, a Black Ice GT Stealth 140 paired with a Noctua NF-P14. I THINK, I can get all of that to fit... but I may need to change the PSU with a 1) more powerful and 2) shorter one.
 
Looks nice, but it's hard to tell with the PSU in there. I felt like on my build I had everything nicely organized until the PSU went in and then all my careful wire management turned to shit, and I just started shoving wires wherever they could fit without impeding airflow...
 
The same here with my Q11 build ,everything looks good an clean until the PSU is installed ,then it is a mess and airflow is restricted. I think the ST45SF or a full size PSU+Lian Li psu extender are a must in this case.

btw.nice build there crazjayz
 
illram said:
Looks nice, but it's hard to tell with the PSU in there. I felt like on my build I had everything nicely organized until the PSU went in and then all my careful wire management turned to shit, and I just started shoving wires wherever they could fit without impeding airflow...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know what you mean. I have all the wires coming out of the PSU going around the 140mm fan, except for the stupid 4pin into the motherboard. I honestly think that's just floating around in there.

mita_757 said:
The same here with my Q11 build ,everything looks good an clean until the PSU is installed ,then it is a mess and airflow is restricted. I think the ST45SF or a full size PSU+Lian Li psu extender are a must in this case.

btw.nice build there crazjayz
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. I don't think airflow is restricted at all, but I could definitely use a 140mm PSU instead of the 150mm that the 520HX is. Especially with my plans of watercooling.
 
asiandunn30 said:
what fan adapter is that?
Click to expand...

That's the Koolance 140-120 metal plate adapter. Another member here used it and that gave me the idea to use it as well. It was the only possibility to make the distance between the fan and the psu greater in this case. It also solved the blocking of the USB3 20 pin cable on my Asus P8H67-I Deluxe motherboard. Temps idle around 25-30C. On Load near 45-54C (if i recall correctly, below 60C for sure).
 
mita_757 said:
The same here with my Q11 build ,everything looks good an clean until the PSU is installed ,then it is a mess and airflow is restricted. I think the ST45SF or a full size PSU+Lian Li psu extender are a must in this case.

btw.nice build there crazjayz
Click to expand...

Is the Lian-Li PSU extender aluminum? I've always assumed that all Lian Li stuff is aluminum but my W2B case carriage is rough heavy steel!
 
reb00tin said:
Is the Lian-Li PSU extender aluminum? I've always assumed that all Lian Li stuff is aluminum but my W2B case carriage is rough heavy steel!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure as I don't own it ,but I assume they are probably made from aluminium.
 
Hey,
has anyone of you tried to install a Thermalright Shaman in your PC-Q11?
 
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