New Gaming computer. What do you guys think? All parts purchased already!! $467.89

Received all parts, took cooler off the HD 7770 video card and wiped off the old hard powder like thermal paste on the GPU, and applied Artic silver 5. I wiped off the corsair H60 water block and applied Artic Silver 5. Assembled the computer, running a push pull dual fan setup for the radiator on the H60. The computer booted with no issues. It has been overclocked and is a stable 4.5Ghz at full load CPU 57c Running OCCT And MSI Kumbustor simultaneously for 1 Hour.

Asus Radeon HD7770 Running 100% full GPU load/ And 100% FULL CPU LOAD 4.5ghz Video card did not exceed 41C after one hour of full system load. Running kumbustor and OCCT And overclocked to 1175Mhz Core/ and / 1250Mhz memory

I am still fine tuning the voltage for the cpu, no matter how high I get, even 1.2 volts I am unstable at 4.6ghz after 13 minutes running OCCT. Although, running at 4.5Ghz it is stable for as long as you want to run the test! So, I am still fine tuning for the lowest stable voltage at 4.5ghz for the coolest temp.
 
The Radeon 7770. Considering how cheap it was. You cant beat the performance for $125.It seems to be running everything maxed out with good frame rates.
 
IMHO, you should not have used Arctic Silver 5, considering that there are better thermal pastes available that does not require a curing time. Arctic Silver 5 requires an extremely long 200-hour (over 8 days!) curing time for it to perform at its best. (And no, curing does not mean letting the PC sit with the power turned off for that long; it means intermittent on-and-off power cycling of the PC, with absolutely no overclocking or heavy loads whatsoever during that time.)
 
E4g1e said:
IMHO, you should not have used Arctic Silver 5, considering that there are better thermal pastes available that does not require a curing time. Arctic Silver 5 requires an extremely long 200-hour (over 8 days!) curing time for it to perform at its best. (And no, curing does not mean letting the PC sit with the power turned off for that long; it means intermittent on-and-off power cycling of the PC, with absolutely no overclocking or heavy loads whatsoever during that time.)
Click to expand...

Artic silver 5 is all I had. My video card runs 98.6 F Full load after 2 hours. Those kind of tempatures sound impossible. Ive had dozens and dozens of video cards, and I have never had one run that cool. My fan is at 100%. It is audible, but its not ridiculously loud or anything like that. Cannot here it to much over the fish tank in the room.

Some graphics cards idle temps are higher than that. But, no I didn't do any curing process for the thermal gel. my idle tempature is 78F
 
Looks good -- you should be all set on performance for a while and later on all you'd need to do is just replace your video cards.
 
Just an update! Im highly impressed with this computers performance, my cpu is running at 4.6Ghz, 65C load, and 2133Mhz on the memory, cas 9 ! 1.65Volts Great speed for benchmarks.

This computer seems to run anything, farcry 3 maxed out, Crysis 2 maxed out, And Skyrim maxed out.

I have not seem crysis dip below 32fps. Im very impressed with this video card.

Im running the graphics on hardcore mode on crisis 2, and 2xaa and 16xAF at 1680/1050. And my avg frame rate is about 32-50fps. That's good to me!
 
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Well this thread has been an interesting read and I guess I have some opinions to share. But first I want to ask the OP for some benchmark posts, tell us about your new build now that you have been using it for a few days!

OK so my thoughts here... First off no matter how knowledgeable we may be we should never assume we know everything and that we have no need of the advice of others. There is a reason there are a few billion humans on this planet instead of a few dozen. Despite how it may appear we are all connected and dependent on on another and our home. We can all benefit from the experiences and perspective of another person. This helps us to see a bigger, clearer picture and keeps us flexible. The branch that does not bend breaks.

Secondly you are using two cards in Crossfire on a 450w PSU. Now I don't care what others say or how good it is, if you are running either 2 cards or a single 256 bit card you need a minimum of 500w, and that's true watts based on the data in the table any good PSU will have. Let me consult my notes (been watching a LOT of YouTube tech videos) So for the 12v rails you multiply the voltage*ampage=true wattage. You need 500+ true wattage in my opinion for anything 256 bit, or for using two cards. It is always good to buy more wattage than you need for future proofing. Oh and be sure that the 12v rails are getting enough juice for you cards. So were I in your shoes I would have picked one of the Corsair Builder series. There's also a cheap Enermax that may be OK (have to research this.) Both are $60.00. The trouble here is that you bought a cheap PSU to get a better one later. Well here is the problem... When you buy your new PSU, no matter how good a deal you get, you need to tack on an extra $50.00. Because that is the sum total you have spent for the PSU for your machine from a financial perspective. Now I'm doing a cheap build too. If I had $150.00 - $200.00 for a PSU I would just get a PSU in that price range, a PC Power and Cooling to be specific. I would not get say this Cooler Max unit then a Corsair. Do you see what I'm saying here? Essentially you spent $50.00 more than you needed for this.

As for eBay you have to be careful. The prices there are driven by other's perception of value. I kid you not, I have an account there, may not be active now (I hate PayPal) and I saw Metal Gear Solid 4 (think it was 4) PS3 and Xbox 360s sell for close to $1000.00 - a 50% markup. You know what else has prices that work that way? Stocks. So you are basically gambling that, after shipping rates and other charges, you are actually saving money. Plus you have no return policy you can count on, even if the seller offers it. I mean are you really going to send back your video card (for example) in the hopes the seller will refund your purchase? But you at least have the ability to get a refund at Amazon or NewEgg and if you buy a new part that will also have a Manufacturer Warranty. These are extra protections that perhaps you pay a little more for but are a good value for the money.

Now I am not saying anything bad about eBay or assuming sellers there are liars. You can handle this easy enough by being a saavy, smart shopper. Some free tips for you... First check a user's feedback, but also check to see if the same person gives them a lot of positive feedback. It could be legit. but changes are if you see that the seller's account has been, forget the phrase, we'll just say, "puffed up." Made to look better than it is. Also check the most recent, say 1-3 month feedback. Go by that. If it is all positive, and there are not vast positives from the same individual(s), then the seller is most likely honest. Next contact the seller. Verify that the item is new/sealed if it is listed that way. This way you can see test the response time of the seller and you can save the email in case you need to pursue some sort of action against them. Avoid sellers who don't contact you in 1-2 days or who are slick operators. There are a few other tips I have from my time there but I'm a little rusty. This will get you by if you insist on using eBay.

Oh yeah one more thing on video cards... I see you were considering getting a 2gb card. Make sure you get one with a price tag of $200.00 or more. You have to look at the Effective Memory, Core Clock and type of RAM. Many manufactures give those multiple gb video cards lower spec RAM, so you come out worse than if you got a 1gb card. So you have to crunch the numbers, find at least 3 separate reviews and compare benchmarks.

Honestly I'm glad I came here and posted a proposed build before I bought. I have had a very good crash course in current tech, learned a whole lot, and now have a better idea of what I want and what will best meet my needs. And I will keep posting proposed builds to be torn apart until I have a very strong build set up for me to buy. Then I will make my purchase with confidence, coming here for install/setup tips as needed. I know that this way, whatever I get, it will last, do what I want, and work properly. The only other way to get that with a PC build is to go and spend a few thousand on an Alienware computer. I think I'd rather save my money...

In any case I hope your new PC rocks and that you are taking notes from all the more experienced users here at the forums. Not counting myself here of course, I'm just a parrot at this point :D
 
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Deathbliss said:
Secondly you are using two cards in Crossfire on a 450w PSU. Now I don't care what others say or how good it is, if you are running either 2 cards or a single 256 bit card you need a minimum of 500w
Click to expand...
Not necessarily. Memory bandwidth has little correaltion with actual GPU power usage. Example here:
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/549?vs=547

The HD 7850 and GTX 560 TI are both 256bit video cards. Yet the GTX 560 TI draws significantly more power at load.

In addition, check this power consumption figure here:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/03/04/amd_radeon_hd_7870_7850_video_card_review/13

Note the full system load of the HD 7850 and HD 7870. That's well under 400W. With that said, we still recommend larger PSUs simply because they generally have the better value when you want to increase the quality of the PSU, to account for future upgrades, and as a CYA measure in case the power draw figures are inaccurate or significantly off.
 
Deathbliss said:
Secondly you are using two cards in Crossfire on a 450w PSU. Now I don't care what others say or how good it is, if you are running either 2 cards or a single 256 bit card you need a minimum of 500w, and that's true watts based on the data in the table any good PSU will have.
Click to expand...

This isn't entirely true. Different GPUs have different power consumption requirements. Placing a number like that on a wide range of GPUs will be mostly inaccurate. Simply because you'll have to cover even the highest load multiple GPUs could consume. Also most of those charts/references you see that recommend xxx watts for a SLI/Crossfire or a specific GPU has to take into account the crappy PSUs that a consumer could potentially be using. One that can't reach half it's rated wattage. Hence the reason why this thread got so many replies with concerns of the PSU the OP purchased.

Deathbliss said:
Let me consult my notes (been watching a LOT of YouTube tech videos) So for the 12v rails you multiply the voltage*ampage=true wattage.
Click to expand...

This is true. To get WATTS, you multiple the VOLTS by the AMPERAGE. In fact, as long as you have at least two of those, you can get the other. With that being said, just because a claims 40A @ 12V does not mean it can sustain or handle 480 Watts on it's 12v rail. This is why proper PSU benchmark/testing is required and why we only recommend a few select places to get such accurate results.

Deathbliss said:
You need 500+ true wattage in my opinion for anything 256 bit, or for using two cards. It is always good to buy more wattage than you need for future proofing. So were I in your shoes I would have picked one of the Corsair Builder series. There's also a cheap Enermax that may be OK (have to research this.) Both are $60.00.
Click to expand...

Again with the generalization. That's not true.

Lets take this SLI review of two SLIs done by HardOCP.
1351497484yqTVfz4gOn_10_1.gif


As you can see; 501W overclocked. I know what you're thinking right now. 501 is > 500, therefore what I said is true! 500+, however that reading was taken with an Enermax MaxRevo 1350W; so lets take a look at that PSU shall we?

This is a test done by HardOCP of that particular PSU.
1305929208Gs0CduZJPU_4_1.gif


As we can see, it's somewhere between 88% and 90% efficient between 346W and 672W. So let's assume it's 89% efficient here.

That reading, taken by the GPU benchmark was power rating at the WALL. Since it takes power to convert power, we'll go back to the efficiency ratings I mentioned above. At 89% eff, that means it takes an additional 11% of power to get the power needed. That means the output of that PSU, during the 501W benchmark the PSU's output was closer to 445W. Thus if you want to get technical, I just showed you an SLI setup that uses less than 500W. Thus proving your 500W+ myth to be inaccurate.

Do note that I did a quick search for his 7770 GPUs in Crossfire to get an accurate power consumption for them; however I was unsuccessful. Will continue to look simply because I am curious, but I'm going to submit this now. I will update it and/or reply with results should I find some good ones. However, HardOCP did do a single card benchmark and the results were 223W overclocked under full load for the XFX R7770 Black Edition Super Overclocked GPU. Even if the power scaled 100% (which it wont because the CPU is included as well) you're looking at 446W. Now that's not to say that a 450W PSU will handle that, nor could a 500W+ PSU. What that means is you need to research specific PSUs to see which one can handle the power consumption the rig could make then add a few to that. For reference, here's the chart.

13292578330y0Tl9FRWk_9_1.gif


Like we told you in your thread; if you want to know the performance of a specific part get the specific details/benchmarks/data of that part or one extremely similar to it. (What I mean here is all SLI 660 3GB cards will preform similar. Some a little more, some a little less but that will even happen with cards that are identical.

Deathbliss said:
The trouble here is that you bought a cheap PSU to get a better one later. Well here is the problem... When you buy your new PSU, no matter how good a deal you get, you need to tack on an extra $50.00. Because that is the sum total you have spent for the PSU for your machine from a financial perspective. Now I'm doing a cheap build too. If I had $150.00 - $200.00 for a PSU I would just get a PSU in that price range, a PC Power and Cooling to be specific. I would not get say this Cooler Max unit then a Corsair. Do you see what I'm saying here? Essentially you spend $50.00 more than you needed for this.
Click to expand...

This is what we've been trying to explain to him and why someone (I think Danny) suggested that he returned the PSU immediately so he can put the money towards a better PSU and you do not need to spend $150 - $200 on a PSU to handle the needs in this thread.

Deathbliss said:
Oh yeah one more thing on video cards... I see you were considering getting a 2gb card. Make sure you get one with a price tag of $200.00 or more. You have to look at the Effective Memory, Core Clock and type of RAM. Many manufactures give those multiple gb video cards lower spec RAM, so you come out worse than if you got a 1gb card. So you have to crunch the numbers, find at least 3 separate reviews and compare benchmarks.
Click to expand...

That's not entirely true. While it is true that you'll have to spend $190+ on a descent 2GB card, that doesn't mean every card thats 2GB and $200+ will be a good buy.

Deathbliss said:
Honestly I'm glad I came here and posted a proposed build before I bought. I have had a very good crash course in current tech, learned a whole lot, and now have a better idea of what I want and what will best meet my needs. And I will keep posting proposed builds to be torn apart until I have a very strong build set up for me to buy. Then I will make my purchase with confidence, coming here for install/setup tips as needed. I know that this way, whatever I get, it will last, do what I want, and work properly. The only other way to get that with a PC build is to go and spend a few thousand on an Alienware computer. I think I'd rather save my money...
Click to expand...

Aside from posting, reading previous build threads will also give you a good idea on what's good and what's not; especially since some of us will explain why we chose the parts we do.
 
Ok, ive had my computer running for 5 days now. And im more than happy with it! Mostly the Processor. Ive always been the type of person to close everything out before I play a game. Just because, I want my performance to be everything it can be! Or in other words, no other programs holding me back. Just all my performance in the game. Well, what shocked me the most! Was the fact, im installing BF3, and Hitman absolution, and playing farcry 3 maxed out at 1680/1050. And my processor hasn't even skipped a beat. Its almost as if.. Its not installing 2 separate 12+GB Video games, and my CPU is only utilizing less than 60%. That is more than impressive! This is my real first intel build. And I was always a AMD person, Sure! Theres a lot of great cpu's out there. And plenty fast enough. But, I feel as if this is easily overkill for my needs. Who doesn't want that in a computer right?

And for the motherboard! I must say, I was worried at first. This is the absolutely the best board ive ever had. I have wifi, Bluetooth. And the quality was amazing. I updated the bios right off the gate. And Ive had no issues at all. And uefi is great, overclocking features are very advanced. It seems to be a very impressive motherboard so far. And I would buy it again.

Memory is memory, its fast and plenty of it. ive achieved 2133mhz, at Cas 9-10-9-28 Timmings. with 1.65 volts. The speed helps quite a bit with Futuremark programs.


I have ran 3dmark2011

And I have ran 3dmarkVantage

3dmark2011 Score was (3,997). Cpu"Physics" 8,623, and Video card was 3,997

3dmark Vantage Score was (15,423). Cpu score was 24,443 Video card was 13,785

That's all the benchmarks I have run so far. Those tests were done at 4.5Ghz with 1.28Volts. I will run again at 4.7ghz, although it requires more voltage, and tempatures start to rise in to 79-85 Celcius. And I would rather stay at my current 65C at 4.5Ghz for every day use lol. Plenty fast for me!

Seems as though my video card is holding me back on the 3dmark2011 score. But, still ok for a 7770.

Is the processor score seem on par for other 3570k's?
 
burned-ati said:
Memory is memory, its fast and plenty of it. ive achieved 2133mhz, at Cas 9-10-9-28 Timmings. with 1.65 volts. The speed helps quite a bit with Futuremark programs.
Click to expand...
The max recommended voltage for Intel CPus is 1.5V. Any higher and you risk CPU damage. Not to mention that Furturemark programs are notoriously poor for indicating actual real world performance of a part. In other words, real world game benchmarks are still king.
 
Danny Bui said:
The max recommended voltage for Intel CPus is 1.5V. Any higher and you risk CPU damage. Not to mention that Furturemark programs are notoriously poor for indicating actual real world performance of a part. In other words, real world game benchmarks are still king.
Click to expand...

Was just coming here to post something similar. Do you happen to have the link where the Intel rep said it could damage CPUs or the link where the user was denied warranty on the Intel CPU due to higher voltage RAM? I can't seem to find them anymore. :(
 
Right here:
IntelEnthusiast said:
Ok this is an issue that I have spent a lot of time on. I have even sent this up to an engineer to find out on this. The issue with this is the 1.65v memory is pushing the tolerances on the processor too much. Over on Tom's they did some testing on the memory to see where the point is and they found that anything above 1.575v can damage the processor. In most cases if you have 1.65v memory before you do anything else go into the Bios and set the memory at 1.5v to avoid this issue.
Click to expand...
 
Danny Bui said:
The max recommended voltage for Intel CPus is 1.5V. Any higher and you risk CPU damage. Not to mention that Furturemark programs are notoriously poor for indicating actual real world performance of a part. In other words, real world game benchmarks are still king.
Click to expand...

I only posted benchmark score because some one asked for them. They do not in anyway reflect real world performance. There only for fun, and the visuals are always great. That was the first time ever running 3dmark11 for me.

I still remember 3dmark01se haha! I had a Radeon 9500pro with a socket "A/462" cpu cooler installed on it, overclocked to the Through the ROOF! "artic silver 5" as well.. running a AMD xp3200 at 2.5ghz I belive, with 2x512mb memory kit DDR. And a ABIT Motherboard. Did they quite making those abits? I had the NZXT nemesis Elite case! It looked like a transformer. A great case! I wish I could find one nowadays. But man, I remember that system was running doom 3 and all that stuff pretty well. lol.
 
I will post some pictures up today. It looks really good though, all the PCB's are black on the electronics. Im trying to get my system a little quieter now. Adjusting the radiator fans, video card fans, and front fans.

Pics coming today
 
The grey thing taped to the bottom of the case, is my power switch. But, the motherboard already has power and reset switches on it, the case power switch is missing. I got the case from my cousin, it was in pieces. I really don't know why.

I still need a couple things, Blu-ray player, my HDD is killing me, its a Sata 2 160Gb. I have to upgrade the HDD to a 6gbs or SSD, and I wanted to fill the rest of the memory dims, and in the future I would proubly swap out the video card.

And I was considering the antec neo 620c continuous. I saw it the other day some where for $64.99

The current PSU, is not the worst ive ever used, but its deffinetly not good. Considering the rebate, I guess ill end up paying 30 for it. but it does suck lol. my 12v rail idle is 11.85v, I have not experienced any stability issues because of it. and the other rails are ok. But, theres no telling how this thing would be in say 6 months, so im going to change it, and sell this one to my brother for cheap, and it would be used in a much lower end system
 
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so your computer is on, but your water cooling fans aren't spinning? is that a profile you set up?

you could turn off the computer and do like 3 minutes worth of cable management and have that looking much better.

11.85v is still in spec on the 12v line, but as you have been told many times, that psu is junk, and you should not do a cruel thing like sell it to your brother... unless you hate him?

SSD is the way to go, mechanical hard drives do not saturate sataIII, and most don't even come close to saturating sataII, if you upgrade hdd, go to ssd.

enjoy it!
 
bigted said:
so your computer is on, but your water cooling fans aren't spinning? is that a profile you set up?
Click to expand...

Most likely the cameras shutter is fast enough that it makes the fan blades look still. Looks like a flash was used, so that's what I'm expecting happened if the computer was indeed on.

bigted said:
you could turn off the computer and do like 3 minutes worth of cable management and have that looking much better.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Cable management not only makes everything look nice an tidy, but it also helps with troubleshooting items. No need to worry about moving cables out of the way to get to components. Not to mention the added benefit of better air flow.

bigted said:
11.85v is still in spec on the 12v line, but as you have been told many times, that psu is junk, and you should not do a cruel thing like sell it to your brother... unless you hate him?
Click to expand...

11.85v isn't necessarily bad, but if he's just using a volt meter to measure that it's probably not that accurate anyway. I wouldn't sell it to anyone I liked either.

bigted said:
SSD is the way to go, mechanical hard drives do not saturate sataIII, and most don't even come close to saturating sataII, if you upgrade hdd, go to ssd.
enjoy it!
Click to expand...

This. However, his 160GB HDD is considerably slower than newer harddrives mostly due to platter density and better designs on the newer models. So if he does go with a newer, better designed HDD, it will be damn near noticeably faster. If SSD can be fit into the budget and fit his storage needs, then I definitely suggest going with an SSD.
 
The radiator fans all work. Just, I turned the PC on and the white fan has a delay, it kicks on about a second or two after the system powers up.

I've got a thread going over in SSD and Storage on hardforum, im looking to spend around $100 and get a Solid state disk. Something around 120GB. I don't need a whole lot of space. 120 is plenty for me. I only install a few games at a time, and remove them when im done, to install new ones. My hard drive is really old. Its been formatted a million times. And its time for it to go.

A ssd is coming in a few days actually, still deciding. Im scoring a 4.6 or something like that in WEI. I know that doesn't mean much but, installing games is a nightmare! It takes forever. Its really slow.

Im going to do a little wire tucking, now that the system is stable and tested thoroughly for daily use.
 
burned-ati said:
The radiator fans all work. Just, I turned the PC on and the white fan has a delay, it kicks on about a second or two after the system powers up.

I've got a thread going over in SSD and Storage on hardforum, im looking to spend around $100 and get a Solid state disk. Something around 120GB. I don't need a whole lot of space. 120 is plenty for me. I only install a few games at a time, and remove them when im done, to install new ones. My hard drive is really old. Its been formatted a million times. And its time for it to go.

A ssd is coming in a few days actually, still deciding. Im scoring a 4.6 or something like that in WEI. I know that doesn't mean much but, installing games is a nightmare! It takes forever. Its really slow.

Im going to do a little wire tucking, now that the system is stable and tested thoroughly for daily use.
Click to expand...
Yeah seaworld just called ... they want their octopus back !
 
just tidy up the wires a bit, go to lowes or wherever and get a bunch of zip ties.

also you have the same carpet as my grandma... just a thought haha
 
lol, its just burgundy carpet. Im not sure why it looks so weird in the pictures. Its normal looking in person.
 
I want to cut down on dust, getting inside my computer. My last build ran 24/7 and had no filters. it has like, full sized rabbits inside of it.

Im running 1 intake fan, and it has a filter on it. its a foam filter, that is made on to the inside of the 5.25 drive bay covers. So, it is blocking the dust. But some is still getting it inside. How can I stop all the dust?

This system does not run 24/7, it gets turned off at night.
 
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burned-ati said:
Im running 1 intake fan, and it has a filter on it. its a foam filter, that is made on to the inside of the 5.25 drive bay covers. So, it is blocking the dust. But some is still getting it inside. How can I stop all the dust?
Click to expand...

You can't. I'd suggest getting an air compressor and giving the case a good pump :)D) every once in a while. Don't spend out money on compressed air cans, they're don't last forever and include Propane and other gases which can toxicate you if smelled badly.
 
Well, I found a HDD. Its a Seagate Pipeline 320gb. I just removed it from a newer DVR box that was not in use, it is a 320gb, and its a Sata II drive 3gb/s! My performance is noticeably faster already! And im score a 5.9 in windows 8 64bit. With the older drive I was only getting a 4.6 full and 4.8 empty in WEI performance test, my startups are faster! 20-25 seconds And loads catalyst control center really quick unlike before.

Im still going for a SSD drive Monday, although, This will be my new storage drive. Its not sluggish like the other sata 160. No telling how old that 160gb was.

And this 320gb Seagate is only 5900 rpm. I guess its just a little more fresh, and its Sata II. Either way, my computer feels much smoother and responsive when opening applications.

Still not good enough, im really curious to see how a SSD is going to perform. Ive never used one before.

What kind of load times do you get in video games? like a single player campaign mode in FC3 or crisis 2? Anyone have a SSD and those games? or skyrim?
 
Which SSD are you considering? Not all SSD models (even those from the same manufacturer) perform at the same levels.
 
Ive been keeping a eye on reviews, so definitely a ssd that is around "500mb write, 500mb read manufacturer spec performance", I know those numbers are not real life performance , and Sata III 6.0gb/s

There's quite a few, the newer Sata3 OCZ models, and the Intel 520 series, or the Intel 330 series. Or the Kingston hyper x SSD, or a Corsair Force GT. They have a lot out there. I'm looking to spend around $100. Give or take a few bucks $.

Definitely something fast! And it must be sata III.

I would like it to be 80gb or more.
 
This would be an excellent choice:

http://www.amazon.com/CoreRise-Comay-Venus-Pro-Protection/dp/B009CBRYNE

Check out the Tweaktown review on it, it's ended up extremely well with no downsides whatsoever and the power back-up that's exclusive to, only that SSD on the consumer level, just made the whole package better than it already was. Chris Ramsayer the Tweaktown SSD reviewer (dude knows his shit) said every SSD producer should go by what Comay has done.

And he's correct because I too agree that ALL SSD's should have power back-up so that you don't lose the data you're writing on in case shit goes down.
 
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johnnydoe said:
This would be an excellent choice:

http://www.amazon.com/CoreRise-Comay-Venus-Pro-Protection/dp/B009CBRYNE

Check out the Tweaktown review on it, it's ended up extremely well with no downsides whatsoever and the power back-up that's exclusive to, only that SSD on the consumer level, just made the whole package better than it already was. Chris Ramsayer the Tweaktown SSD reviewer (dude knows his shit) said every SSD producer should go by what Comay has done.

And he's correct because I too agree that ALL SSD's should have power back-up so that you don't lose the data you're writing on in case shit goes down.
Click to expand...

Aside from the fact that its from a no-name company without a serious US presence and they don't have firmware updates on their website which means these drives don't have functional TRIM.
 
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ocellaris said:
Aside from the fact that its from a no-name company without a serious US presence and they don't have firmware updates on their website which means these drives don't have functional TRIM.
Click to expand...

This drive is a carbon copy of the Vertex 3 "Pro". You can flash the Vertex 3 Pro firmware onto this drive.
 
No. Not only is it an OCZ product (which means greater change of crappy support), it's an older OCZ product.

I would recommend the Crucial M4, Samsung 840 Pro, Intel 520, or Plextor M5S/M5P series SSDs. The Samsung 840 is an ok choice if it's substantially cheaper than the other recommendationsI mentioned.
 
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