New build time.

[Zaraky]

Hi, it been a while since the last time I came to build a computer. Been able to drag the lifespan of my present computer but now, BSOD, random crash, freezing and a lot of lag has become randomly frequent. So it's time to upgrade for a new future proof computer.

I don't know if it's better to get the cream of the cream build or get a medium build and upgrade as time goes. Last time I bought the cream of the cream which ended costing me 3300$ but lasted for 6year and could still go on if i had better cooling and lower resolution probably. So that's one of my biggest question. Of course, I'd love to get a computer that I could upgrade if needed in couple of years just to stay with the new software and game highest setting.


1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc
Alot of multitasking while I game. I ordinary have over 100+tabs opened in firefox and google chrome at all time. I game alot, recently The secret world,DotA2, LoL, Skyrim, Guild wars 2 and ect. I also do high detail painting in photoshop cs6 and painter 12 and other program. Also 3d rendning in Maya 3d studio, zbrush ect.. Might do some video rending from game I play ect as well. So really this computer will be a jack of all trade toolbox so I can do everything with it. As well the computer, if possible, will be active 24/7 if possible.
2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?
1500 to 2500max with tax n shipping.
3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.
Canada
4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.
CPU, GPU, Case, Powersupply, Fan or liquid cooling, CPU cooler, Motherboard, Maybe a SSD
5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.
Right now I already bought 2xG.Skill Sniper , i have 5x Samsung HD and 1xHitachi Drive that I use for my OS which I might reuse if the SSD drive isnt needed.
6) Will you be overclocking?
Probably, more info below.
7) 7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?
2560x1600 30'' dell + 1980x1080 32'' tv
8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
I can start ordering piece as soon as possible and I can wait for new deals in the next couple weeks. My computer is dying, but still has some life in it to hold maybe a month or two. Of course, I don't want to drag this like last time
9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.
I don't know much about this, USB3 for sure, eSATA could be useful, raid maybe for my storage drives.
10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If so, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?
I have a windows 7 64bit license.


11) Liquid Cooling or Fan cooling???
In my room, at summer time, it's very and I mean VERY hot even with air conditioning( the one i have isn't able to cool the room down at the moment...) So that something that scare me a little about buying a new computer. I don't want my new build to fry it component right from the start. I have no experience with liquid cooling and I have heard that leak could kill a computer if it happened, which again scare me a little lol.. If you could give me some hint and information about what to do about this, it would be awesome.

12) Overclocking or not.
This has been in my mind for a while, I though of overclocking my current computer but with the bad cooling it would of killed it even sooner. Guess I need to search more about this and how to do it if it's really worth it. I would prefer to do it so I can get something stable with a good temperature.

13) Is raid worth it for storage, OS performance ect..?
I've heard raid0 make it all faster and some other raid help for storage purpose ect... is it really useful in the end?

14) The big question about the GPU
Last time I bought a computer I went with the big deal which was the 8800gtx, now it's the 680 but I heard there a new card with the gk110 that supposed to come out soon or so. I was thinking of going for the EVGA FTW 4B editon of the 680 since I'm using a 30'' screen plus other monitors. I might be getting 2 20'' to go with my 30'' later this year. Hoping to get surround to work somehow.

15) Letting the computer run 24/7, good or bad?
Is it dangerous for the lifespan of your computer to let it run days and nights with out turning it off every night? I know my present computer didn't have trouble to do so... but still I don't know if it's good or possibly bad for the computer itself.

16) Buying pieces for deals as time goes.
Is it worth it to go, for a time, deals hunting, such as buying good deals now, waiting a weeks to see next deals ect until everything has been bought for the build itself? Or just buying it in one go and be done with it? Can you really manage to do a lot of saving over the time?

17)Sound card needed for 5.1 cinema surround?
I have a 5.1 surround that I have bought last christmas but was unable to get it to work on the computer. When I test the sound, it work for all speaker but when playing watching video, gaming ect it doesn't work. I use the optical connection so maybe that's the problem... couldn't really find out.

PS: I'm looking for the most quiet and silent build possible with out killing performance.

---Build I'm thinking of.---
Case: Corsair 550D
CPU: i7-3770k Ivy-Bridge
PS: Corsair AX750
GPU:EVGA 680 FTW 4GB
CPU Cooler: Unsure, Either Corsair H100, Coolermaster 212 Evo or Noctua NH-C14...
Motherboard: Sabtertooth Z77 or Maximus V or Maximus IV Extreme
Ram:2x G.Skill Sniper 1.5v 2x4gb
SSD: Crucial 256gb

Still figuring if I'm buying new noctua fan or be quiet fan to replace the case fan. Like i said at the start of my hrewad, I'm looking for something that going to last me a while, so either by going for high end now that could still be upgradable if needed or going for a very good build which will be upgradable in the future.

 

[Dangman]

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If so, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?
I have a windows 7 64bit license.


Ram:2x G.Skill Sniper 1.5v 2x4gb

Which OS version? Home Premium? Pro? etc

I kept the RAM as part of the above question because considering how long you keep the PC, your planned usage, and the relative low price of DDR3 RAM, you might as well go for a 2 x 8GB or 4 x 8GB RAM setups. However, Windows 7 Home Premium is artificially limited to 16GB of RAM and the other Windows versions can support 32GB of RAM or more.

11) Liquid Cooling or Fan cooling???
In my room, at summer time, it's very and I mean VERY hot even with air conditioning( the one i have isn't able to cool the room down at the moment...) So that something that scare me a little about buying a new computer. I don't want my new build to fry it component right from the start. I have no experience with liquid cooling and I have heard that leak could kill a computer if it happened, which again scare me a little lol.. If you could give me some hint and information about what to do about this, it would be awesome.

Work on your ambient cooling first. Short of using liquid nitrogen, the lowest temp a PC can generally hit is the ambient temperature. So if the ambient temperature is high, the temperature in the PC is gonna be high. Buy a new AC or figure out a way to pump in cooler air from outside,

More than likely you won't have enough money to do a real water-cooling setup. So you're stuck with self-contained liquid cooling setups like the Corsair Hydro and Antec Kuhler or air-cooling HSF. Flip a coin between the Corsair H100 or the Noctua NH-D14 (I don't recommend the C14) for cooling. However for low noise, the Noctua NH-d14 takes the crown as the included water pumps with the Corsair H100 is somewhat noisy.

12) Overclocking or not.
This has been in my mind for a while, I though of overclocking my current computer but with the bad cooling it would of killed it even sooner. Guess I need to search more about this and how to do it if it's really worth it. I would prefer to do it so I can get something stable with a good temperature.

IMO, if you can control temperatures, overclocking is totally worth it. It can extend the useful life of a PC or at least make the last few months or years with a slow PC a lot less painful.

13) Is raid worth it for storage, OS performance ect..?
I've heard raid0 make it all faster and some other raid help for storage purpose ect... is it really useful in the end?

RAID 0 really isn't necessary unless you're doing a ton of large file transfers every hour or so. RAID 1 is useful if you absolutely need a higher chance of the PC being up and running after a drive death. But for backup purposes, not a great idea by itself. For the other RAID types, I really wouldn't bother due to the performance hits. I'd would only use those other RAID types with a seperate server.

Since you included a SSD, I don't see a need for RAID.

14) The big question about the GPU
Last time I bought a computer I went with the big deal which was the 8800gtx, now it's the 680 but I heard there a new card with the gk110 that supposed to come out soon or so. I was thinking of going for the EVGA FTW 4B editon of the 680 since I'm using a 30'' screen plus other monitors. I might be getting 2 20'' to go with my 30'' later this year. Hoping to get surround to work somehow.

GTX 680 4GB is a solid setup.

15) Letting the computer run 24/7, good or bad?
Is it dangerous for the lifespan of your computer to let it run days and nights with out turning it off every night? I know my present computer didn't have trouble to do so... but still I don't know if it's good or possibly bad for the computer itself.

IMO, it's fine as long as you have solid components, good cooling, and good power.

16) Buying pieces for deals as time goes.
Is it worth it to go, for a time, deals hunting, such as buying good deals now, waiting a weeks to see next deals ect until everything has been bought for the build itself? Or just buying it in one go and be done with it? Can you really manage to do a lot of saving over the time?

Largely dependent on how up-to-date you can be on PC hardware and how much of the new parts can be tested with the old PC. At most, I'd say a month to buy all the parts of the PC if you want to remain close to the return periods. Though I generally recommend buying everything in one go. Yes you can manage to do a lot of savings over time (longer than a month) but it does have a bit of a risk (i.e you can't test if a certain part is DOA or defective) and requires you to be really really up-to-date on PC hardware. If doing over a period of time, buy the RAM, CPU, and mobo at the same time as more than likely you won't be able to test any of those parts with older parts. You can always test your older PC with a new PSU, case, GPU, HDD, etc but more than likely not a new CPU, mobo or RAM.

PS: I'm looking for the most quiet and silent build possible with out killing performance.

Problem: A quiet PC generally means higher temperatures. Considering what you just told us about your temperature issues, I wouldn't bother worrying about noise levels too much.

Case: Corsair 550D

Luckily this case can switch between a good cooling PC and a silent PC. So here's the deal in case you didn't come up with this already: Until you get your ambient temperatures under control, operate this case with all of the extra panels removed and with a 120mm fan on the side. That should still give you pretty good cooling.

Motherboard: Sabtertooth Z77 or Maximus V or Maximus IV Extreme

I don't recommend the last two mobos due to their high costs. The Sabertooth is still a tad overpriced but if you're willing to pay a lot more for a higher chance of stability/reliability, then the Sabertooth is a solid choice.

 

[Zaraky]

Which OS version? Home Premium? Pro? etc

Oh right, Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit.

I kept the RAM.

I already bought the ram while ago when I though I'd buy the computer... but I didn't. I don't even know if the ram work or not lol. Obviously I'll use it ( if working) and might upgrade for more up to 32gb... or if i can find a motherboard with more slot, 64gb maybe! Haha this might be overkill i think.

Work on your ambient cooling first.

That's one bit of a problem. The room is really big, yet the only air flow is a damn little window in a big window. Since i'm in an apartment, i can''t make modification to this. So the only way would be a new AC but this again, seem alot. I have a 10k BTU AC right now and it's not doing it correctly so I'd have to spend over 600$ for one which would "maybe" be able to air cool my room in hot temperature time lol.

GTX 680 4GB is a solid setup.

So stay with this not worth waiting for the gk110 one ?

IMO, it's fine as long as you have solid components, good cooling, and good power.

So this mean we got to get those filled.

Problem: A quiet PC generally means higher temperatures. Considering what you just told us about your temperature issues, I wouldn't bother worrying about noise levels too much.

Need to make sacrifice somewhere I guess!

I don't recommend the last two mobos due to their high costs. The Sabertooth is still a tad overpriced but if you're willing to pay a lot more for a higher chance of stability/reliability, then the Sabertooth is a solid choice.

OK so sabertooth it is i guess.

This has clarified most of my questions, thank. Still wonder about the sound card/ 5.1 suound setup. I'll have to look around for AC but there only 1month off summer so don't think it's worth to spend 600$+ for the time at the moment. Would get a better one next year obviously.

By the way, will this set up be upgradable in the future or like mos tof the time, every piece will need to be changed and start back from scratch?

 

[Dangman]

That's one bit of a problem. The room is really big, yet the only air flow is a damn little window in a big window. Since i'm in an apartment, i can''t make modification to this. So the only way would be a new AC but this again, seem alot. I have a 10k BTU AC right now and it's not doing it correctly so I'd have to spend over 600$ for one which would "maybe" be able to air cool my room in hot temperature time lol.

Maybe keep a high-speed fan in that little window?

So stay with this not worth waiting for the gk110 one ?

The GK110 is meant for workstation use and such, not for gaming.

By the way, will this set up be upgradable in the future or like mos tof the time, every piece will need to be changed and start back from scratch?

Somewhere in the middle actually. You won't be able to to upgrade the CPU since socker 1155 is basically going to be dead when Intel new socket and CPU platform comes out in 2013. Luckily the 3770K is basically one of the fastest CPUs out now. All you have to do is overclock the CPU and that CPU should last you quite awhile. Look at the people with the Core i7 920 CPU: That CPU came out in 2008 and is still a solid performer when OC'd. It's slower than newer CPUs like the 3770K of course but still offers a decent enough performance OC'd where an upgrade today is barely worth it. It'll be next year when Intel's new platform comes out where a really solid upgrade path for the Core i7 920 comes out CPU performance wise.

GPU wise, that GTX 680 4GB should last you quite a while. Hell outside of Skyrim with extra texture packs, that GPU is actually more than overkill for the games you've listed so far. So if you want to go the middle route and upgrade later on, then the GTX 670 2GB is a good choice for that route. You'll still get good performance either way.

If you have a solid case and PSU, you really don't need to replace those. Current GPU and CPU power usage and heat generation is generally going down, not up. As such, a solid 750W PSU is more than enough for future PCs if current trends holds and a good cooling case should last. In fact, if you had bought a good 750W PSU six years ago, it still would have been good enough for this new PC.

 

[Zaraky]

Alright, I have began the search for the cheapest piece from what I've chosed. Everything is going fine now but I still have some question i'm wondering about.

Motherboard: Should I stick with sabertooth or go with another with 8 memory slot for the work I'm doing? Or maybe it would be alright to stick to a max of 32GB if I decide to get 8gb ram stick later on. 64Gb would maybe be overkill I guess.

Case: Before the 550D, I was looking at the 600T and 650D and now the Vengeance C70 in black seem good as well. Which one should I get in the end? I wanted the 550D for a silent PC but as you're saying, it might be hard to get silent if I need to get the maximum airflow possible. This mean I should go with the 650D or another, from what I'm understanding.

Sound Card: Do i need a good sound card if I want to use my home theater surround system as speaker for ym new computer?

Blu-Ray Burner: Are those worth it? or just get a standard dvd burner?

Might have some more question after this, got to get abck to work.

 

[xyexz]

As far as cooling goes as well as a quiet case, I just stuffed two Antec 620's in my Fractal Design Define Mini mATX case, one for the Core i7 2600k and the other for my EVGA GTX 570, all of my fans are running full blast during gaming and I can barely hear the entire pc is running.

Temps at full load during BF3:
GTX 570 ~55C
2600k ~55C

I'm getting ready to make a thread of my latest setup with pics, I'll post a link here shortly.

Link here to pics http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038970281

 

[DirtyB]

Alright, I have began the search for the cheapest piece from what I've chosed. Everything is going fine now but I still have some question i'm wondering about.

Motherboard: Should I stick with sabertooth or go with another with 8 memory slot for the work I'm doing? Or maybe it would be alright to stick to a max of 32GB if I decide to get 8gb ram stick later on. 64Gb would maybe be overkill I guess.

Case: Before the 550D, I was looking at the 600T and 650D and now the Vengeance C70 in black seem good as well. Which one should I get in the end? I wanted the 550D for a silent PC but as you're saying, it might be hard to get silent if I need to get the maximum airflow possible. This mean I should go with the 650D or another, from what I'm understanding.

Sound Card: Do i need a good sound card if I want to use my home theater surround system as speaker for ym new computer?

Blu-Ray Burner: Are those worth it? or just get a standard dvd burner?

Might have some more question after this, got to get abck to work.

32GB is going to be overkill, wouldn't worry about 64GB at all

I'd pickup the 550D if your going for a single card setup, otherwise I'd probably go with the 650D, although the 550D is very customizable so you have alot of flexibility with it and it would certainly be fine with a dual card setup the main concern there is your ambient temps. I have the 550D and I absolutely love the case and can't believe how quiet it is.

You don't need a sound card if your using your stereo receiver.

Blu-ray is kind of up to you but most people don't go with a blu ray burner, although they have come down in price recently(along with the media) I don't think there are many great software options for blu-ray burners, is there any reason you'd need a blu-ray burner? Seems USB drives and external hard-drives are generally easier for backing things up.

 

[Zaraky]

So far I`ll be sticking with one GPU unless by more miracle the card cant push up enough in new game in 2-3year... then maybe id get a second one. This shouldn't be a problem I guess. The ambient temperature is only very high in insanely hot time in the summer where it can do like 30*C in the room itself. I'll get a new Air conditioner for next summer jut to be sure lol.

So I guess i'll stick with the 550D, just not sure there enough space for my 6 storage drive plus ssd. Only thing that's still turning me over the Vengeance C70 is the travelling possibility, bringing my pc to my friend house and playing in gang and such would be awesome but guess i could still do it with the 550D.

As for blu-ray it's just a luxery item so far just for the fun of having it... not really worth it nd i can get it anytime later if really needed.

Ok, so I don' need a sound card.... How am I suspose to get the 5.1 working? Do I need to us estereo or optical is susposed to work perfectly? I'm really bad with this audio stuff -_-..

Thank alot for the infomation.

As far as cooling goes as well as a quiet case, I just stuffed two Antec 620's in my Fractal Design Define Mini mATX case, one for the Core i7 2600k and the other for my EVGA GTX 570, all of my fans are running full blast during gaming and I can barely hear the entire pc is running.

Temps at full load during BF3:
GTX 570 ~55C
2600k ~55C

I'm getting ready to make a thread of my latest setup with pics, I'll post a link here shortly.

Link here to pics http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038970281

Hmmm, Does that mean I should get some kind of these cooler instead of the noctua d-14?

Seriously, how much does it cost to get a good and efficient watercooling system?

 

[xyexz]

If you're talking a closed loop system such as Antec 620 (only one I've tried) they are very cheap but still slightly more expensive then a better than stock air cooler.

Most of the basic closed loop coolers H60, 620 etc are the same so pick up whichever is cheaper, if you have a smaller case go for the Antec coolers as they have soft hoses instead of metal ones so they give a little more.

All the coolers I've seen are based off of the same Asetek brand:
http://www.asetek.com/products/gaming-pcs.html

620 on newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209049

h60 on newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181015&Tpk=h60

Thermaltake on newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106188

Thermaltake recently just came to the scene with their version and it's got two PWM fans so best deal right now for the price.

Roughly ~$65 for one of the coolers.

The noctua on newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

Currently ~$89

I think you'll be more pleased with the closed loop cooler.

Also any motherboard these days comes with 5.1 support built in with the chipsets sound card, you definitely don't need an audio card unless you're doing some kind of intense audio processing or are an audiophile and need near perfect sound.

 

[Zaraky]

It<s my first time ever that I<m going to build the computer itself. Normally I would get a technicien to do it but I want to experiment it even with the little knowledge I have about hardware.

So far when you talk about closed loop, I have simply no idea what it is. Just guessing that it's a all in one water cooling piece that auto cool itself? Otherwise I don't know -_-. The one seeming the easiest to instal is the noctua d-14 but is there a major difference between the noctua and the closed loop one such as the antec?

The problem I have with the audio right now is simple. I have my PC connected to my HT receiver via optical cable, when I test the doldy in the option I get the sound from every speaker. But then when playing game, video 5.1 video ect... it never work for the 2 speaker behind me. So I don't know what im doing wrong. There's only so many cable i can connect to the receiver so I have my tv, my pc, my xbox360 ... Dunno what to do.

 

[xyexz]

Closed loop essentially means it's a self contained loop containing pump radiator fan and tubing. There isn't any maintenance, container for fluid to flush and fill or big pumps to prime and no hoses to leak test.

They are by far the most simple watercooling setup however they don't do as well as a full watercooling setup custom made with high performance parts.

What is amazing about them is their relatively low cost to high performance air coolers, low maintenance and long life, and their performance!

The closed loop, (now that you know what that means ), coolers are just as easy to install as a regular air cooler, in fact I think they're slightly easier to mount on the board as the bracket that goes underneath the motherboard usually comes with sticky foam tape to hold everything in place while you work on the other side of the board (where the pump mounts on top of the processor).

You don't even have to apply your own thermal paste as the closed loop coolers come with paste already applied and it's actually not bad paste imo. I would still recommend cleaning the processor surface before mounting the pump.

The only challenge with the liquid coolers is making sure you have room for the rad but the spot in the top back of the 550D that's made for a 120mm or 140mm fan will fit that rad and fan combo perfectly.

The games you're playing, do they support 5.1 audio, also it matters whether or not your drivers support 5.1.

I know my pc has a special port for 5.1 audio and with my speakers I have to use that port otherwise I only get sound out of the front two. I'm not really an audio expert so hopefully someone else can speak to your issues with audio.

 

[Zaraky]

As for 5.1 ... I ordinary just download the 5.1 test audio mp3 or go to youtube for the dolby 5.1 surround test... I only get the 2 infront, not the center and the 2 behind witht he sub... But if I do the dolby test in the audio option every speaker work... which just confus eme up.

Anyway , thank for the info about the closed loop cooler, I'm thinking of the H100 or H80, dunno which one yet. The guy at the shop suggest me the H80 since he use it at his home for his OC'ed computer. Might go for this, but I don't trust him 100%. Not gonna buy it right now, gonna wait for next week and probably going to order every piece from the shop so I don't have to hassle up with rma stuff if I get a defective piece, beside the ram since i already bought online.

Ok Here are some build that the guy offered me.
Shop 1 = S1 shop 2 = S2
Case: HAF 992 @ S1:129$ S2:109$
CPU: I7-2600k @ S1: 349$ S2:359$
MoBo: Asus Maximus V Gene @ S1: 239$ S2: 219$
GPU: EVGA GTX680 FTW 4gb @ S1: 639$ S2: 649$
SSD: Intel cherryville 240gb @ 269$
Blu-Ray: LG Writer: S1: 95$ S2:99$
PSU:Thelmaltake Toughtpower Grand 850w 189$
or Thelmaltake TR-880p 800w 109$
So total from S1 is

S1: 1909$ with out tax. S2: 1905$ with out tax. With out he CPu cooler still ...
This build is susposed to be for Overclocking it to the best possibility with out losing much. From what he say the difference between Ivy and Sandy bridge is about 5-7% gain.

I still trust corsair to be the bets but if I want to overclock alot should I be better with the 650D or 600T or still stick to the 550D?

He talk about alot of comeback from crucial and other SSD and that intel is the best or maybe kingstone. Ofcourse I know Intel are known to be near perfect so maybe I should get one.

Motherboard wise he suggest Maximus or Ranmpage for software being better for overclocking. Is it really that much better then sabertooth?

And PSU wise, Is thelmaltake good or bad lol?

Socket wise, is the 2011 and 1155 make any difference? Would it be better to get X79 mobo instead of x77?

Yeah I know this is totally different from my first build but I'm looking for every single Idea i get to make the best possible PC i can make with the money I have. So Sorry if I have so many question and different post lol.

 

[Dangman]

Anyway , thank for the info about the closed loop cooler, I'm thinking of the H100 or H80, dunno which one yet. The guy at the shop suggest me the H80 since he use it at his home for his OC'ed computer. Might go for this, but I don't trust him 100%.

The H80 isn't a bad liquid cooling setup.

Case: HAF 992 @ S1:129$ S2:109$

That case doesn't exist.

MoBo: Asus Maximus V Gene @ S1: 239$ S2: 219$
...
Motherboard wise he suggest Maximus or Ranmpage for software being better for overclocking. Is it really that much better then sabertooth?

I don't see a mATX case there. As such, I do not see a good reason to get that mobo. You're better off with the Sabertooth mentioned earlier. No, it's not that much better to the point where you have to get a mATX mobo.

PSU:Thelmaltake Toughtpower Grand 850w 189$
or Thelmaltake TR-880p 800w 109$

And PSU wise, Is thelmaltake good or bad lol?

You got the wrong model number there for the last PSU: It's the TR-800P. In any case, that last PSU is a piece of shit. So avoid. However the first PSU choice isn't a good choice either since you didn't say you were going for a triple GTX 670 SLI setup where a 850W PSU would be needed. Go with the Corsair TX 750V2 750W PSU instead.

I still trust corsair to be the bets but if I want to overclock alot should I be better with the 650D or 600T or still stick to the 550D?

The problem is that you want to OC. As such, the 550D isn't that great of a choice since it's geared towards low noise computing which comes at the cost of increase heat. As such, if you want to OC that badly, you'll need to go witht eh 650D or 600T. If you're not overclocking and want low noise, the 550D is an excellent choice.

He talk about alot of comeback from crucial and other SSD and that intel is the best or maybe kingstone. Ofcourse I know Intel are known to be near perfect so maybe I should get one.

Intel SSDs are very solid. However they tend to cost a lot more than their Crucial M4, Samsung 830, Corsair Performance Pro, and Plextor M3 competitors. If you have money to burn, go grab an Intel SSD. But the extra cash spent on the Intel SSD can be better be applied to other parts (i.e more RAM).

Socket wise, is the 2011 and 1155 make any difference? Would it be better to get X79 mobo instead of x77?

If your kind of usage will take full advatange of six-core CPUS AND (keyword here) more than 32GB of RAM, then yes the 2011 will make a big difference if you can afford it.

 

[Zaraky]

Thank for the quick reply Danny. The case does exist but not from corsair, forgot to mention it's the Cooler master HAF 922 .

Damn, Now I'm stuck between quiet pleasure or pure performance.. I like to play game on max setting specially with my 30" screen to get awesome detail and such... so performance win on this but then sound is also part of the deal, which is why I'd prefer something that won't ruin the fun... But obviously I have an portable air conditioner so even then my sound experience is alrdy ruined by that. Might buy some new Sennheiser wireless headphone later for christmass I guess.

I have no experience ever with overclocking so the guy told me the maximus would be easier to overclock. He said the gene for the lower price but i could still go with the bigger one. Just suck that the 8ram slot one are 4 sli/xfire only -_- unless I missed one. BTW what's ThunderFX? As you said in the above post, oc'ing is good and seem easy now, so if I<m about to make my computer better then what it can do out of the box, why not. But the cost of more heat, more power ect will it be dangerous for my computer and render it unstable... that's the little bit scary part lol.

He also said Sabertooth wouldn't really benefit from thermal armor due to my ambient temperature being high, so it would just flow hot air in anyway rendering useless the technology. So that's why I was looking at other motherboard,

Anyway I don't have much choice, if I go with sabertooth it's either Z77 or Z79, Z79 seem to win due too it 8ram slot but again I think I'm ignorant on the fact that it's going to be useless to have so much ram. I don't know why, it seem to call me haha.

Really this is getting somewhat troublesome. I don't know if I'm sticking to the budget or going a little bit overboard just to get the maximum out of this and if it's really going to worth it in the end.

Edit: Right now I'm trying to make the Good & Bad of each card. Maximus seem to have better audio ccompared rampage and sabertooth. On other forum some user talk about fust going into the thermal armor of the sabertooth could be a problem. I have 2 cat, if cat hair would get into it by chance it would be a pain lol.

 

[E4g1e]

Anyway I don't have much choice, if I go with sabertooth it's either Z77 or Z79, Z79 seem to win due too it 8ram slot but again I think I'm ignorant on the fact that it's going to be useless to have so much ram. I don't know why, it seem to call me haha.

The Z79 chipset doesn't exist. If you mean the X79 chipset, you will have to get a different CPU since the i7-2600K you are planning to get is incompatible with any X79 motherboard: The 2600K uses LGA 1155 for the socket while X79 supports only LGA 2011 CPUs. Furthermore, the LGA 1155 IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) supports a maximum of only eight lines of memory total (but four double-sided, or double-ranked, DIMMs already eat up the maximum supported number of lines in the LGA 1155 memory controller). If an LGA 1155 mobo were to have eight DIMM slots, you cannot fill up more than four slots with double-sided modules or else your system will either fail to POST or recognize much less than the amount that you put in.

 

[Dangman]

Thank for the quick reply Danny. The case does exist but not from corsair, forgot to mention it's the Cooler master HAF 922 .

A bit of an old case not to mention somewhat limited cable management. You should be able to find the newer and better Antec 1100 case, Corsair 400R, or Corsair 500R cases.

Damn, Now I'm stuck between quiet pleasure or pure performance.

Not necessarily. The Silverstone Raven RV02 and RV03 as well as the Silverstone FT02 do offer both low noise AND good cooling due to their unique layout:
$144 - Silverstone RV03B-WA ATX case
$178 - Silverstone RV02B-EW ATX case
$220 - Silverstone FT02S-W ATX Case
$230 - Silverstone FT02B ATX Case

However as you can tell, they do cost a bit more money. I would highly recommend the FT02 if you can afford it.

I have no experience ever with overclocking so the guy told me the maximus would be easier to overclock. He said the gene for the lower price but i could still go with the bigger one.

Still wouldn't recommend either the mATX or ATX. The only time I'll recommend the mATX is if you're using a mATX case. As for the ATX version, I only recommend that if you don't give a damn about price and are willing to pay more for a larger e-peen.

Just suck that the 8ram slot one are 4 sli/xfire only -_- unless I missed one.

Why would that be a problem? Also, note that you can use other devices in those PCI-E slots.

BTW what's ThunderFX?

It's basically "an external headphone amp and splitter, designed for renaissance gamers who have more than one gaming platform and at the same time put a premium on politeness"

Anyway I don't have much choice, if I go with sabertooth it's either Z77 or Z79, Z79 seem to win due too it 8ram slot but again I think I'm ignorant on the fact that it's going to be useless to have so much ram. I don't know why, it seem to call me haha.

Do note that you would have to spend another $290 CAD for the six-core Core i7 3930K CPU in order for the X79 platform to be worthwhile. The cheapest socket 2011 CPU, the quad-core Core i7 3820, cannot be OC'd and offers the same performance as the 2600K at stock speeds. As such, a bit of waste to get the Core i7 3820. In addition, the cost of a solid 8 DIMM X79 mobo (Asus X79 Pro and Asus Sabertooth X79) is another $100 to $120 CAD more than the Asus Maxium V Gene. So that's $390 to $410 more for two extra cores and the capability for 32GB of extra RAM

 

[Zaraky]

Ok, Case wise I'll be looking at pretty much everything this weekend. From the corsair to cosmos II and such... Trying to find the better of every world. If I'm going to spend about 300$ on a case better make it worth it.

I'm pretty much decided on the maximus formula with or without the thunderfx or maybe extreme, depending what use I could make of the pci-e slot, got any idea what I could use them for beside a GPU?

Now that explain everything about the 2011 socket -_- No wonder I couldn't find any ivy-bridge for it lol. I doubt six-core would benefit me much. Well Maybe in maya and photoshop. But yeah I don't think it's the money to get this boost up.

If ivy-bridge has 5-7% gain over sandy bridge, is it still worth it to get it or should I get a sandy bridge in the end?

Really, I'll be glued to this forum for a while, specially this weekend since I'll be free and able to look around for everything. So yeah, the main thing I look around is performance, quality, stability and durability. So I'll try to do more homework and tyr to fit the good and bad the best I can.

The Z79 chipset doesn't exist. If you mean the X79 chipset, you will have to get a different CPU since the i7-2600K you are planning to get is incompatible with any X79 motherboard: The 2600K uses LGA 1155 for the socket while X79 supports only LGA 2011 CPUs. Furthermore, the LGA 1155 IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) supports a maximum of only eight lines of memory total (but four double-sided, or double-ranked, DIMMs already eat up the maximum supported number of lines in the LGA 1155 memory controller). If an LGA 1155 mobo were to have eight DIMM slots, you cannot fill up more than four slots with double-sided modules or else your system will either fail to POST or recognize much less than the amount that you put in.

Hi there e4g1e, Thank for the reply. Right I meant the X79, and thank for the long explication about the dimm stuff. So yeah I'll stick with the 16gb of ram I have and if needed will upgrade to 32gb later with 4x8gb ram. So Motherboard with 8dimm/ram is solved for now lol.

 

[Dangman]

Ok, Case wise I'll be looking at pretty much everything this weekend. From the corsair to cosmos II and such... Trying to find the better of every world. If I'm going to spend about 300$ on a case better make it worth it.

Again, the FT02 is your best bet if you want low noise AND good cooling.

I'm pretty much decided on the maximus formula with or without the thunderfx or maybe extreme, depending what use I could make of the pci-e slot, got any idea what I could use them for beside a GPU?

You're starting to frustrate me here. Why are you going for the Maximus Formula? Your answer better be only "e-peen" as thats really the only valid reason to spend that much money on that mobo when mobos that cost $100 less will easily fit your needs.

If ivy-bridge has 5-7% gain over sandy bridge, is it still worth it to get it or should I get a sandy bridge in the end?

If you're not going to be adding multiple GPUs and don't have a real need for faster onboard GPU, then no the 5-7% gain really isn't worth the higher costs of the Core i7 3770K over the Core i7 2600K or 2700K.

 

[Zaraky]

Again, the FT02 is your best bet if you want low noise AND good cooling.

You're starting to frustrate me here. Why are you going for the Maximus Formula? Your answer better be only "e-peen" as thats really the only valid reason to spend that much money on that mobo when mobos that cost $100 less will easily fit your needs.

Sorry, not trying to frustrate you. I'm just going with what I'm seeing and what would be better for me. Firstly I wanted the sabertooth for it low price and thermal armor for the help at cooling, I know it's an awesome board. I just did some research and the best audio onboard is on the Maximus with supremeFX IV plus Asus crystal sound. Plus it help; with alot of overclocking option will make it easier on me since I have no knowledge on how overclocking work. Of course sabertooth seem to offer more durability and stability with it thermal radar and better material and the 5year warranty. Seriously, I trying to figure the good and bad of both motherboard and figuring which one I'll take.

If you're not going to be adding multiple GPUs and don't have a real need for faster onboard GPU, then no the 5-7% gain really isn't worth the higher costs of the Core i7 3770K over the Core i7 2600K or 2700K.

So far I'm only sticking with 1 680, but if in the future a second would help alot i'd think about it. But I doubt it's going to be needed for a while. The 5-7% gain , I don't know if it's overall or just for game. Will Ivy help more with my actual work with maya or photoshop or it'll be the same as sandy bridge?

Again sorry, I don't want my ignorance on hardware and feature ect to frustrate you.

 

[E4g1e]

You don't need a sound card if your using your stereo receiver.

Actually, that depends on the stereo receiver itself. Many of those have only analog inputs. In this case, the limitations and sometimes the crappiness of onboard audio are clearly heard. Other receivers accept only HDMI for digital audio, in which case even a good sound card would not do much if any good since nearly all of them lack HDMI outputs (this forces one to use the analog outs, which vary widely in quality from card to card, especially if the user has a video card that either lacks HDMI outs or cannot output audio via HDMI).

 

[Zaraky]

Actually, that depends on the stereo receiver itself. Many of those have only analog inputs. In this case, the limitations and sometimes the crappiness of onboard audio are clearly heard. Other receivers accept only HDMI for digital audio, in which case even a good sound card would not do much if any good since nearly all of them lack HDMI outputs (this forces one to use the analog outs, which vary widely in quality from card to card, especially if the user has a video card that either lacks HDMI outs or cannot output audio via HDMI).

I'm not at home right now but I know i have optical, hdmi, analog and other connection to the receiver. So far on my p5w64 ws motherboard i have analog and opticaland it's plugged to the receiver as optical. When testing the option with dolby every speaker work but when playing 5.1 movie video or mp3 it just active the left and right speaker. So I wonder if it's going to do the same on my next computer.

 

[Dangman]

Sorry, not trying to frustrate you. I'm just going with what I'm seeing and what would be better for me. Firstly I wanted the sabertooth for it low price and thermal armor for the help at cooling, I know it's an awesome board. I just did some research and the best audio onboard is on the Maximus with supremeFX IV plus Asus crystal sound. Plus it help; with alot of overclocking option will make it easier on me since I have no knowledge on how overclocking work. Of course sabertooth seem to offer more durability and stability with it thermal radar and better material and the 5year warranty. Seriously, I trying to figure the good and bad of both motherboard and figuring which one I'll take.

Considering that no one in this thread has actually recommended the Maximus, still odd that you're going for it. In addition, you forget that you can always add in a 3rd party sound card with the Sabertooth and therefore get equal if not better sound quality.

I understand that the Maximus does offer easier overclocking but it's not that much easier to justify the costs IMO. If you're the kind of person that's rushing to overclocking without trying to learn the ins and outs of overclocking, you shouldn't bother overclocking at all. So in other words, if you actually took the time to actually learn how to OC, the Sabertooth as well almost every single Asus Z77 motherbaord (even the $150 ones) would be relatively easy to OC. In addition, due to the widespread adoption of UEFI and the release of the SB and IB CPUs, CPU overclocking has become a significantly easier than CPU overclocking from just two years ago. As such, you're basically starting with training wheels with the current mobos and CPU when it comes overclocking. That Maximus just adds foam rubber all around your body.

So far I'm only sticking with 1 680, but if in the future a second would help alot i'd think about it. But I doubt it's going to be needed for a while. The 5-7% gain , I don't know if it's overall or just for game. Will Ivy help more with my actual work with maya or photoshop or it'll be the same as sandy bridge?

It's an overall gain. As such, with Ivy Bridge, you'll see a 5% to %7 performance with Maya and Photoshop over Sandy Bridge.

Again sorry, I don't want my ignorance on hardware and feature ect to frustrate you.

It's not your ignorance thats frustrating me: It's the fact that you're not providing good reasons for parts that I've recommended against as well as providing explanations as to why a certain part I've recommended to you doesn't fit your needs that's frustrating me.

 

[Zaraky]

Considering that no one in this thread has actually recommended the Maximus, still odd that you're going for it. In addition, you forget that you can always add in a 3rd party sound card with the Sabertooth and therefore get equal if not better sound quality.

That's exactly what I was thinking and searching about some hours ago. I'm trying to find a good card for performance and value that's actually going to be better and work correctly with my home theater.

I understand that the Maximus does offer easier overclocking but it's not that much easier to justify the costs IMO. If you're the kind of person that's rushing to overclocking without trying to learn the ins and outs of overclocking, you shouldn't bother overclocking at all.

Obviously, I'm just a little scared to go overboard mess everything up and scrap my new build right from the get go lol. I'll have to look arround and learn about OC as you say. It'll all come up to the experience fun as well in the end.

It's an overall gain. As such, with Ivy Bridge, you'll see a 5% to %7 performance with Maya and Photoshop over Sandy Bridge.

So actually Ivy bridge isn't worth it at all? I don't understand at all why would someone pay higher for this minimal gain. Does overclocking change everything in this? The only thing that I'm wondering is maybe if I get a second 680, it cold get bottlenecked by the sandy bridge unlike ivy... Guess I'm totally off the rail on this one too...lol.

It's not your ignorance thats frustrating me: It's the fact that you're not providing good reasons for parts that I've recommended against as well as providing explanations as to why a certain part I've recommended to you doesn't fit your needs that's frustrating me.

Yeah I understand, I just went ahead and got delusional on what my real goal. Get a good performing, stable and durable, future proof computer. Not going for ez heavy priced stuff lol.

So yeah.. right now it's looking like this.
Mobo Sabertooth Z77
CPU: 2600k or 2700k or 3770k
CPU Cooler: Need to chose one such as H80 or better.
GPU: Evga gtx680 FTW 4gb
PSU: Corsair TX750
Case: Still looking on this.
Ram: 16gb Gskill sniper 1600 1.5v.
SSD: Intel cherryville 240gb or Crucial M4 256gb

 

[silent-circuit]

I am too lazy to read the whole thing, but... you're talking about shop 1 / shop 2 and all the prices are crap. Are you building yourself, or getting some local guy to build? Where are you located?

 

[Dangman]

So actually Ivy bridge isn't worth it at all? I don't understand at all why would someone pay higher for this minimal gain. Does overclocking change everything in this?

A few reasons:
- Newegg combo deals with that CPU and Z77 mobos makes it an attractive buy
- Microcenter's lowered prices on the 3770K
- People might want the faster onboard video of the 3770K in case their main GPU dies and they have a gaming fix to be taken care of
- The extra PCI-E lanes which means less chance of a potential PCI-E bottleneck or performance limitation in the future.

However in overclocking, things are a tad more complicated: Ivy Bridge CPUs run hotter than SB CPUs when they're OC'd. As such, IB CPUs can't be OC'd as high as SB CPUs. As such, a SB CPU OC'd to 5GHz would perform the same as a IB CPU OC'd to 4.7Ghz to 4.8Ghz.

 

[Zaraky]

I am too lazy to read the whole thing, but... you're talking about shop 1 / shop 2 and all the prices are crap. Are you building yourself, or getting some local guy to build? Where are you located?

I am building it myself but I've been arround to some shop to se ehow much they charge to spare the rma stuff if I get defective part, plus warranty issue. Otherwise I'm using shopbot.ca and looking at every cheapest price for every single piece. I live in canada.

A few reasons:
- The extra PCI-E lanes which means less chance of a potential PCI-E bottleneck performance limitation in the future.

The bottleneck issue is actually one thing that push me toward ivy bridge just to be more future proof.

However in overclocking, things are a tad more complicated: Ivy Bridge CPUs run hotter than SB CPUs when they're OC'd. As such, IB CPUs can't be OC'd as high as SB CPUs. As such, a SB CPU OC'd to 5GHz would perform the same as a IB CPU OC'd to 4.7Ghz to 4.8Ghz.

Now, the possibility I, myself, can get to 5ghz with sandy and 4.8ghz with ivy, on a stable and cooled enough system, is arround what lol? I'd guess it's damn low for this much fo a boost. Would it still be possible for SB to get bottlenecked while Oc'ed? I'll look arroung for overclocking guide and tutorial and try to learn how it work slowy while i look arround for pieces and finsh my build.

 

[Dangman]

Would it still be possible for SB to get bottlenecked while Oc'ed?

No.

 

[xyexz]

As far as OC'ing goes, like it's been mentioned before you shouldn't OC without some purpose to do so and knowledge of what OC'ing actually is/does.

OC'ing isn't really all that hard anymore, as has been mentioned, most of the ASUS boards come with software that'll automatically OC for you (don't know about other mobo manufacturers boards/software). But using the software has it's risks and requires more knowledge around OC'ing so you don't fry something or make your chip only last a month. I've noticed when I played around with the automatic OC software it tended to add more voltage than needed, which will cause pre-mature wear on the chip.

All in all, if you can get Ivy Bridge chip/mobo for the same price or just a tad bit more than Sandy Bridge you might as well get it, but if it's going to cost $100+ more to get Ivy Bridge just for the sake of getting Ivy Bridge, just stick with Sandy Bridge. The 5-7% increase isn't going to be all that noticable if at all for your usage.

If you need PCI-e 3.0 or the Intel HD 4000 iGPU than you'll have to get Ivy Bridge.

 

[silent-circuit]

A Sabertooth with a $100 aftermarket soundcard will stomp all over the Formula all day. Period.

Listen to Danny, he's been doing this shit for a while and there's a reason he's a mod in GenHard. He'll make sure you get your money's worth and don't throw it away on anything; the man is dedicated. Strangely so, considering no one's paying him.

 

[Zaraky]

A Sabertooth with a $100 aftermarket soundcard will stomp all over the Formula all day. Period.

Listen to Danny, he's been doing this shit for a while and there's a reason he's a mod in GenHard. He'll make sure you get your money's worth and don't throw it away on anything; the man is dedicated. Strangely so, considering no one's paying him.

I know, I trust him and I listen to him. I just happen to get blinded by the ez side lol. It`s obvious im going for sabertooth, looking for a sound card and trying to decide if I get IB for pci-e 3 or just go with SB. What's the difference between pci-e 3 and pci-e2? If I go with intel or Crucial for the ssd and, the case... Should be done soon hopefully.

And what would be a very good sound card?

 

[Dangman]

What's the difference between pci-e 3 and pci-e2??

More bandwidth. However for all intents and purposes, it really doesn't matter:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/07/18/pci_express_20_vs_30_gpu_gaming_performance_review/

And what would be a very good sound card?

Ask that in the Computer Audio subforum.

 

[Zaraky]

Ask that in the Computer Audio subforum.

Done! Let hope I get this piece sorted out quickly..

 

[Zaraky]

Ok, due to health problem and hospital timing I had to delay my build once again... Now since I just started college again, I need to hurry and finish it.

I've made some research in my free time when possible, Now back to understand what's going on...

I'm dropping the sound card until I get my MM550 or Bose Quietconfort 15, dunno which one -_-, then maybe I'll get one if I don't like the sound.

Ivy isn't worth the 130$+ due to running hotter and overclocking lower. So it's either 2600k or 2700k... or if I go crazy the 3960x but I guess the last one would be a waste of money.

I am going to overclock, to 4.7ghz up to 5ghz if I can stabilize it correctly.

Motherboard: By asking on other forum, many people suggested the asrock extreme4, lower value but seem useful. The 5xfast ram option that create a ram disk would actually benefit photoshop plus the lifespan of my ssd. If I understand correctly. I've heard that sabertooth "armor" is just a gimmick, if that's true and dust ect can get under it and be stuck, with my cat it would be very and very bad. This is why I'm totally unsure. I'm open if you've got other m mb to suggest.

I'll be getting the metro vacuum just for cleaning my computer regulary.

Casewise, I don't like much the silverstone look... but I've been looking at it... it seem alright. Are you sure it will perform better then other case for cooling? I know silence was one of my characteristic for this build but really I want it to perform to the maximum, so since I'll be overclocking on air, for now, I'd want the best air cooling possible. I've been looking on and off on ym free time, case that got my attention are , still, 650d, 550d, then thermaltake chaser and cooler master storm trooper, fractakl arc midi. I like the storm trooper a little more then the other but I'd guess that 650D with mesh panel would benefit way more from cooling. This is actually the hardest part for me to pick lol...

If reall there no other choice, I'll either go for 650d or the FT02B.[edit] and now there is the new fractal design R4 coming into play!... Sigh..

Powersupply, I've been trying to find a good platinum, found one from seasonic 860w and Antec 650w. Is platinum worth it in the end?

Again, sorry for so many question, I just want to be one hundred pourcent sure of what I'll be getting.

Thank again for taking your time to answer me.

 

[Zaraky]

Did alot fo research, for a while.

Case Wise, I'm not leaning toward the Ft02, don't know which color but with all the review it seem the best. But damn it's a pricey one lol. Is it really worth the 100$ over the 550D/Define R4 or arc Midi?

Motherboard: Asrock Extreme4 or Asrock Extreme6, but i've heard some stuff are Asrock RMA begin crap or troublesome. Should I stick to them or go back to Asus?

CPU: 2600k vs 2700k, what's the biggest difference for 50$?

CPU Cooler: Guess I'm still going with H100 and better fan. Or should I go with something else fi I want a 4.8-5ghz stable overclock?

 

[Dangman]

Motherboard: By asking on other forum, many people suggested the asrock extreme4, lower value but seem useful. The 5xfast ram option that create a ram disk would actually benefit photoshop plus the lifespan of my ssd. If I understand correctly. I've heard that sabertooth "armor" is just a gimmick, if that's true and dust ect can get under it and be stuck, with my cat it would be very and very bad. This is why I'm totally unsure. I'm open if you've got other m mb to suggest.
....
Motherboard: Asrock Extreme4 or Asrock Extreme6, but i've heard some stuff are Asrock RMA begin crap or troublesome. Should I stick to them or go back to Asus?

Stick with Asus. The Asus P8Z77-V and Asus P8Z77-V Pro are also good motherboards as well as shown in this HardOCP review:
http://hardocp.com/article/2012/08/14/asus_p8z77v_pro_lga_1155_motherboard_review/

Until HardOCP releases a review of the new AsRock Z77 mobos, I'm not recommending any of them due to past inconsistent quality shown in HardOCP reviews.

Is platinum worth it in the end?

Nope. Unless you live in an area where the cost of electricity is absurdly high, platinum isn't worth it as it'll be a decade before you recoup the costs. In addition, as I mentioned earlier in this very thread, unless you're going for triple SLI, you don't need a 850W+ PSU. For any single GPU setup, you'll be fine with a solid 650W PSU. However I don't recommend that Antec since you can get higher quality or larger amperage PSUs for around the same price range of that Antec like the Corsair TX650 V2, Corsair HX650, Seasonic M12II and S12II 620W PSUs, etc.

Case Wise, I'm not leaning toward the Ft02, don't know which color but with all the review it seem the best. But damn it's a pricey one lol. Is it really worth the 100$ over the 550D/Define R4 or arc Midi?

Yes. If you truly did research, that would have been clear.

CPU: 2600k vs 2700k, what's the biggest difference for 50$?

There's only a clock speed difference. But it's so small that it's not the extra $50.

CPU Cooler: Guess I'm still going with H100 and better fan. Or should I go with something else fi I want a 4.8-5ghz stable overclock?

Yes it's a good choice.

 

[Zaraky]

Ok ... so right no w. This is what the build look like.

Case: FT02... don't know if I get silver or black.
CPU: 2600k unless I find 3770k for same price
CPU Cooler: H100
GPU: Undecided if I'm going 7970 or 680 or 670. Need to do more review and get more opinion on this.
MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V Pro, still thinking of the asrock extreme4 since it has a really good deal on ti right now.
Ram: 16gb of Gskill Sniper 1.5v
PSU: I ccan get a 1000w ocz fatal1ty for 130$ atm, might jump on it.. I'd go for the corsair TX or HX, but is 650 really enough if I go for sli/xfire in the end in couple of month?
SSD; Right now there's intel 520 240gb at 220$, M4 256gb for 202$ and samsung 830 for 230$.. Might jump on Intel unless 830 come in special... if I miss tghe special, just gonna go with M4.

As for the GPU, I've read some review that since one of the driver update, the 7970 is beating both the 670 and 680, and eyefinity is better for multiple monitor ( which I'm going to go later on). But ti seem Nvidia is still better at gaming due to new technologie... which is why I'd go for them anyway... But is the 680 really worth the extra money for the little performance boost compared the 670 ( still going with 4gb version on either) or maybe go for asus brand one since their cooler seem way better then others brand. I've read some bad comment bout the evga but maybe they just got a lemon out of the batch...

PSU wise: just need to decide which PSU I'll use for sli/xfire depending on which card I'll get, I'm pretty sure I'll get a second once I get my 3 monitor setup.

CPU Cooler: I've got some feedback that I should still go with a heatpipe cooler, such as the noctua or zalman. And that it would be more quiet then the H100, unless I get silent fan for the H100. In this case, which fan I should get for the H100 to get it to be the more silent possible?

 

[Dangman]

MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V Pro, still thinking of the asrock extreme4 since it has a really good deal on ti right now.

Again I don't recommend that AsRock.

PSU: I ccan get a 1000w ocz fatal1ty for 130$ atm, might jump on it..

Don't. First of all it's an OCZ so you would have to deal with their crappy support. Second, there's no proper PSU review of that PSU yet. By proper PSU reviews, I mean a review from the sites listed in this link that tests PSUs properly:
http://www.overclock.net/t/738097/psu-review-database

Third, if that $130 is the new price, that should set off warning alarms right there since $130 is the average price of good 750W to 850W PSUs. Rarely do you see larger wattage PSUs around that price range that are actually good.

I'd go for the corsair TX or HX, but is 650 really enough if I go for sli/xfire in the end in couple of month?

Depends on which GPUs you get. However for CFX and SLI, I'd err on the side of caution and get a 750W.

But is the 680 really worth the extra money for the little performance boost compared the 670

IF you have to ask that question, then you shouldn't get the GTX 680. The GTX 680 is aimed at those who want the fastest performance possible at whatever the cost. If you have to have good bang for the buck, the GTX 680 isn't it.

CPU Cooler: I've got some feedback that I should still go with a heatpipe cooler, such as the noctua or zalman. And that it would be more quiet then the H100, unless I get silent fan for the H100. In this case, which fan I should get for the H100 to get it to be the more silent possible?

It's not only the fan: It's pump itself that's also noisy. No matter what fan you get, that pump is still gonna be fairly noisy. If you want near silence, the Noctua NH-D14 is your best bet. It may not cool as well as the H100 but it'll be significantly quieter.

 

[Zaraky]

Right... forgot why I wasn't going with the Vertex 4 lol... The normal price for the PSU of 239$ but there's a deal on ncix that bring it down to 159 with 20$MIR. But yeah, the customer support is a let down from every review i've read. I'll look for 750/800w psu range now and see if I can find a good deal.

About the 680, yeah I know... but I went for the high price of 800$ with the 8800gtx years ago and never got a let down, until today where I push it to the extreme lol. I'm pretty sure the same outcome would be if I was to get an 680, well I hope. Otherwise, the best bang for buck is either the 7970 and 670. In either of those, which one oc with best cooler should I get? Sadly Asus doesn't make the 4GB version as of yet which suck...

NH-D14 or H100... Will the H100 rad fit in the ft02 anyway? Didn't check that as I always forget about this detail. Going to check that right away. Eitherway... it come to performance vs silence, what would be the max possible oc i could get on a 2600k with the NH-D14 or with the H100?

 

[silent-circuit]

The difference between the 680 and 670 / 7970 is not near what the difference was between the 8800 GTX and its next competitor at the time you bought it. It's not the same at all. You're pretty much throwing money away buying a 680.

The H100 will fit using the radiator adapters in the FT-02 but it will be near the bottom (intake) of the case, which has positives and negatives... I'd recommend going with a more standard air cooler like the Noctua if silence is your main concern; it will cool more than well enough.

 

[Zaraky]

The difference between the 680 and 670 / 7970 is not near what the difference was between the 8800 GTX and its next competitor at the time you bought it. It's not the same at all. You're pretty much throwing money away buying a 680.

The H100 will fit using the radiator adapters in the FT-02 but it will be near the bottom (intake) of the case, which has positives and negatives... I'd recommend going with a more standard air cooler like the Noctua if silence is your main concern; it will cool more than well enough.

Alright , which 670 should I be getting? Asus isn't making a 4gb version which suck. So either msi, galaxy, zotac or evga. I've heard the cooling on the evga is actually worst then other mul;tiple fan custom card... Can't really verify this yet.

Ok, I'm thinking of going crazy lol. Danny, what do you think. If I'm going for a 20" ortrait 30" landscape 20" portrait setup and maybe another screen for all the other stuff, will a asus 670 2gb be enough or I'm really really better off with a 4gb? So far every review I've got poitn asus as being the best and mot silent card atm. I suspose if I were to go sli later on, it would balance out or the Vram would still bottleneck me up -_-. Because is 2gb vram will be enough to handle max graphic on this PLP setup, I'll go with asus card right away.