Need help with water cooling

[veloxity]

Hi. I just moved my computer into a new water cooling case and I have everything installed and it seems like the coolant is flowing, but my CPU is constantly heating up. I didnt even go into the desktop yet, I'm just sitting in the BIOS watching the CPU temp. and it constantly heats up not stopping. When I see the number turn red I immediately turn off the system.

Could this had happen because I didn't apply enough thermal paste? I know I didn't apply too much. I had a thin layer on the CPU.

I have a AMD FX-60 CPU and used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.

 

[JC634]

Reseat the block. Sounds like you not making contact with the CPU/paste.

Normally, thin is good for thermal paste. Just read the manufacturers instructions on how to apply.

 

[veloxity]

Reseat the block. Sounds like you not making contact with the CPU/paste.

Normally, thin is good for thermal paste. Just read the manufacturers instructions on how to apply.

I guess I could try and reseating the heatsink, but sorry I dont get it because I screwed it in pretty tightly. I'm not sure what is the correct way to apply the thermal paste but I tried my best and learned it from youtube and it look like I copy it mostly.

I'm using AMD FX-60 CPU and Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.

 

[Riddlinkidstoner]

AS5 can break during the curing process, totally fucking up all cooling. It can also break after its fully cured if you move your case around a lot.

First try to reseat it with new paste. My recommendation though is to use MX-1 instead.

 

[montypythizzle]

AS5 can break during the curing process, totally fucking up all cooling. It can also break after its fully cured if you move your case around a lot.

First try to reseat it with new paste. My recommendation though is to use MX-1 instead.

MX-1 was GREAT with my AC Alpine 7, didn't crack at all, need to buy some new....

 

[veloxity]

AS5 can break during the curing process, totally fucking up all cooling. It can also break after its fully cured if you move your case around a lot.

First try to reseat it with new paste. My recommendation though is to use MX-1 instead.

Alright I'm going to try and reseat it right now with new AS5 paste. I will try and get some MX-1 tomorrow morning if the step doesn't work. I don't know a lot about computers. I just want to know if these things I tried does not work is there anyway I could fix the CPU cooling still?

 

[Riddlinkidstoner]

Alright I'm going to try and reseat it right now with new AS5 paste. I will try and get some MX-1 tomorrow morning if the step doesn't work. I don't know a lot about computers. I just want to know if these things I tried does not work is there anyway I could fix the CPU cooling still?

If your water cooling make sure you don't overtighten the block because it will start to pull away from the block at a certain point, thus breaking your cured AS5 and causing very poor performance. Also you might want to check the order of your loop and make sure everything is in proper order. No bubbles/foam/algae/etc. Make sure the fans on your rad is working...

Maybe you should just make a checklist.

Oh also remember that while in your BIOS, your CPU has a bit of work to do in there so those won't be idle temps your seeing.

 

[veloxity]

Oh also remember that while in your BIOS, your CPU has a bit of work to do in there so those won't be idle temps your seeing.

Thank you so much for the help

Alright I'm going to try not to over tighten. I still don't know when it is okay to start running my comp. though because even though if the BIOS not be the correct idle temp. should I just wait at the desktop and see if it shuts down itself? Will it be bad and harm the CPU or it might not shut down itself if it gets too hot? I dont know if that could happen.

 

[BillParrish]

Trouble is we dont know what the sensor you are watching is really measuring, Remember you no longer have a HS/fan blowing air around the components near the cpu. it could be something else getting warm/hot. However it does worry me it would turn red, I would expect stuff near the cpu to run warmer but not so hot as to cause an alarm.

Is there no temp monitoring software that reads the cpu diode ? I thought coretemp worked on AMD's ? If so download that and see what it says. That would be the most accurate as it is reading the internal cpu temp sensor.

If you are pumping water, no kinks, and that block is seated down on the cpu, not being held off by some component you didnt notice, it has to be cooling enough for you to get into windows and take a look at what is happening.

 

[veloxity]

Alright. It looks like my pump wont run now. Im giving up water cooling really soon but I really wanted to make this work. I dont know if this will help but I'm going to redo the tubes . I know its not the power supply because I tried hooking it up to another power supply.

 

[SippieCup]

is it not running? or not pumping water?


if its not pumping water, tilt the case around according to your tubing so you get water into it, and when needed fill the loop with more water.


i thiink the problem with your pump is that there is nothing the pump though the system, thus it is not working.


edit: sorry about reviving this thread, it hard having godly powers like that... but seriously, sorry if this just makes people annoyed

 

[!gOtVolTage!]

1st remove waterblock check the footprint of IHS to waterblock,did it look like both were touching each other even? If not you will not get the best heat transfer.Also if your using a non lapped CPU and Waterblock ,Make shure you use a Dot of paste the size of a BB for AS5 or simalar compounds,make shure its applied in the center of the IHS,Install waterblock snugly or fairly firm then give it a lil 1-2degree twist left to right and make shure the waterblock is still fully secure. this will spread the paste to the size of a quater above the Cores and thus becomes your thermal footprint.

2nd If the IHS and Waterblock is LAPPED with a Polished finish then use DOT of paste in center of IHS and spread it paperthin covering whole IHS.the thinner the better. Now install your waterblock and give it a lil twist left and right to seat the paste with no airbubbles. Again make shure the waterblock is fully secure. A Polished /Lapped IHS and Waterblock will transfer heat the best when minamal paste is used and spread thin and even on the IHS .This is because of the finer surfaces and the fact the IHS/waterblock is almost perfectly flat ,the paste does not have to fill factory IHS waterblock imperfections

Finally , Make shure your filport or resivoir is installed before the pump inlet and that there are no KINKs in any line. Its good to fill the res or fill tube to the top and turn on off pump till water drops to the intake level of pump,DONT LET IT SUCK AIR. repeat this till water flows fully .If you look close you should see bubbles goin in the direction of the water flow ,thus indicating the pump is pUmping. Its very important that you never let pump go dry or suck air to make it cavitate. This will trap air in pump and make it not flow. Sometimes if a pump hasnt ran in a while you may need to fill with water then tap it to free the impeller if its gummed up!.

Hope one of these tips helps ya, good luck

NOTE; if you have the pump out look down the intake tube and see if you can spin the impellerwith a tiny screwdriver. they do get locked sometimes when the impeler stops aftershutdown. Waterpumps for Pc's are mag type pumps MAGNETIC DRIVES usually STOP AT SAME SPOT EVERYTIME WHEN SHUT OFF. thus the sometimes will get stuck and need a push start if it hasnt been used for long time. Youcan hook it up with piece of hoes filled with water and purge it a few times make shure it starts and stops normaly.