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Naked Ivy

I would probably do that...

However I would definitely not trust something so...delicate to a poor quality company like EK though...
 
DeathPrincess said:
I would probably do that...

However I would definitely not trust something so...delicate to a poor quality company like EK though...
Click to expand...

Touche, they have a better rep with me than Koolance at least.
My Nickle Gpu block stayed nickle with EK. My Koolance 370si.... not so much.

Edit: I hope I didn't derail my own thread into a nickle plating argument in the third post.
 
JayJapanB said:
Cooler to the die.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy.html

What's peoples take on this?
Anyone done this before or come across any temps yet?
Click to expand...

Just make sure it is compatible with your water block. I would only run bare die mount with light weight low profile block. All high quality copper surface with Coolaboratory Liquid PRO TIM works great.

I made my own mount for my IB bare die mount that I have been running for months without any problems. Cooling is great as well. IMO physics will prove that eliminating the IHS will allow better heat transfer directly from die to block. I also added .5mm blanket of fujipoly xtreme thermal pad around my die to help give some support and to aide in thermal transfer directly against the pcb.

My bare die set up that I have been running for awhile now.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2775935&postcount=94
 
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sakerfalcon said:
How easy would it be to crack the die?
Click to expand...


The idea with the EK bolts and spacers is to get the right offset from the motherboard to the top of the die to prevent cracking the die.

On my custom mount I use gentle hand tightened mount pressure and I have had good results and no cracked dies. Bare die mount doesn't need alot of pressure for mount.

To prevent any excess pressure on the die I recommend using a light weight water block on the die. I don't recommend large air heat sinks for bare die mount.
 
I have removed the HS from my Ivy and changed the TIM between the core and HS to Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. I also use the same stuff between the HS and the waterblock. The IBT temperatures dropped 20-25 degrees celsius at 4,9GHz @1,586V (you propably knew the Z77 Extreme4 is overvoltin 0,09V). Before it started throttling after 105 degrees. Otherwise this 3570K isn't a good clocker, it needs too much juice. The Extreme4 has hard times with these volts, the MOSFET's are burning hot...

It would be nice to test these EK fittings so I could skip the HS, but then again, I have no problems with the temps atm... and it's a lot safer to use the HS.

3570k-butchered.jpg


BTW, I have never had any problems with EK waterblocks. In my eyes they do really great quality products. Some have had trouble with the nickel coating, but you can buy the blocks without it, and if using proper anti-corrosion stuff in the water there will not be any problems.
 
Tuppu said:
I have removed the HS from my Ivy and changed the TIM between the core and HS to Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. I also use the same stuff between the HS and the waterblock. The IBT temperatures dropped 20-25 degrees celsius at 4,9GHz @1,586V (you propably knew the Z77 Extreme4 is overvoltin 0,09V). Before it started throttling after 105 degrees. Otherwise this 3570K isn't a good clocker, it needs too much juice. The Extreme4 has hard times with these volts, the MOSFET's are burning hot...

It would be nice to test these EK fittings so I could skip the HS, but then again, I have no problems with the temps atm... and it's a lot safer to use the HS.

3570k-butchered.jpg


BTW, I have never had any problems with EK waterblocks. In my eyes they do really great quality products. Some have had trouble with the nickel coating, but you can buy the blocks without it, and if using proper anti-corrosion stuff in the water there will not be any problems.
Click to expand...

That is an INSANE amount of voltage to be running through that cpu for a 4.9Ghz overclock bro..I know not all chips are equal, but I am running the same board, and my de-lidded 3770K @ 4.8Ghz runs @ 1.272V @ 100% load...I wouldn't plan on keeping that chip long, and if you sell it I SURE as hell hope you disclose the fact you are running that much juice through it..
 
It just don't clock up to 4,9 without lot's of voltage, it's a quite bad chip. Tried 5GHz but couldn't get it more than SuperPi steady.

So is your Vcore CPU-Z result or measured from the board?
 
Tuppu said:
It just don't clock up to 4,9 without lot's of voltage, it's a quite bad chip. Tried 5GHz but couldn't get it more than SuperPi steady.

So is your Vcore CPU-Z result or measured from the board?
Click to expand...

Lots of people use CPU-Z and HWinfo64. Only a few people actually use a voltage meter to measure.


Based on your posts its obvious you are using way to much voltage for your over clock. You might be able to get a stable 5GHZ if you back off on the voltage. If not run safe voltage for stability and safe temps.

Delidding is great but you can still damage your cpu if you run too much voltage.

If you think your mother board is a problem I'd get a different MB.
 
Ok, so you think I have randomly just throw in the voltage settings? It didn't even boot to windows with few steps lower voltage, and then also had to add some to get stable IBT. I'm telling you, it's just a bad chip, bad overclocker, nothing more. And this is not the worst I have seen... And these voltages seems to be little too much for the board without water cooling the MOSFET's. I would say the board is burning before the CPU.
 
Tuppu said:
Ok, so you think I have randomly just throw in the voltage settings?
Click to expand...



You voltage is way high for that speed. If you have a slow IB then slow it down and at least benefit from cooler more stable operation.


Also it's safe to run bare die if you are careful and plan it out and do it right. It's just as safe as running delidded with IHS on.
 
The point is that all chips are individuals. If it need power to clock then it needs it, you can't overclock it if you don't rise the voltage to the level it needs to overclock. You have a good chip that clocks easily with low voltage, thats nice. :) I have a bad chip that needs a lot of voltage for this level. But you can't say it's to much voltage for this induvidial because it needs it. I aware that this is quite much, but hey, they have used more to clock Ivy's... and then again, using offset, the voltage isn't that high 24/7. You can't even compare gaming voltage to IBT voltage. Who cares if the max. voltage is a bit high..? :D



But sorry for the OT. This thread was about the EK fittings and butchered Ivy's. And I'm glad to tell that you can get really nice results with temps by only change the TIM between the core and HS. And propably even more temp drop when loosing the HS permanently. I have a EK CPU block so maybe I'll try the fittings and loose the HS.
 
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So, what sort of spacer width thickness do you need to run a block on-die? I'm more leaning towards lapping the ihs to a mirror finish and then mounting the Raystorm on top.
 
SonDa5 said:
Just make sure it is compatible with your water block. I would only run bare die mount with light weight low profile block. All high quality copper surface with Coolaboratory Liquid PRO TIM works great.

I made my own mount for my IB bare die mount that I have been running for months without any problems. Cooling is great as well. IMO physics will prove that eliminating the IHS will allow better heat transfer directly from die to block. I also added .5mm blanket of fujipoly xtreme thermal pad around my die to help give some support and to aide in thermal transfer directly against the pcb.

My bare die set up that I have been running for awhile now.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2775935&postcount=94
Click to expand...

Looks great, dude!
Well done!
 
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