N00b advice wanted :)

[cytech]

WARNING: Long possibly boring post full of irrational thoughts follows.
I take no responsibility for loss of sanity or damage caused by boredom or falling asleep whilst reading.

Hi there, after many years of being scared sh...... of having water anywhere near my pc an ex managed to poor a nearly full bottle of water over a 6 week old rig) I've decided to WC my latest rig.
the main factors making me change my mind are, it looks like a nice challenge, WC rigs just have something an air cooled rig doesn't (other than water) and the fan on my GTX260 is driving me nuts =)

I've spent the last week or so devouring this forum for information and tips yet still have a few questions.

The system in question:


Case: Thermaltake Armor
CPU: C2D E8600
GFX: Zotac GTX260²
MB: Gigabyte EP45-DS5

Current cooling:

CPU: Xigmatec HDT-S1283 - Idle 25° Load 32°
GFX: Stock - under load 55°-65°
Case: 2xNB MF12-S1 120mm (1 front intake, 1 exhaust) - 1xNB MF8-S3 (top back of case as HDD Exhaust) - Zalman ZM-MFC2 Fan controller - Ambient case temp 25°

Currently everything is running at stock speeds, but expect I will OC the CPU and GPU sooner or later.

My original plan was just to cool the GFX card as that is the only thing annoying me, but then thought what the hell (that and removing the xigmatec makes more room for tubing). The loop must be fully internal as I still go to LANs 2-3 times a year.

my plan is to remove the HDD cage at the front of the case and have a 120.2 sat vertically in the drive bays also to put a 120.1 at the back of the case in the exhaust.

now the questions start

will a 120.2 and a 120.1 be enough, to cool an OC'd 8600 and GTX260? or should I plan ahead and go for 2x120.2 (this would make fitting it all in the case more difficult.)

I was thinking of running the loop like this:

RES->PUMP->RAD120.1->CPU->GPU->RAD120.2->RES

but then commonsense broke got in the way and said that putting the 120.2 at the front of the loop would be better as its pulling in the air from outside of the case:

RES->PUMP->RAD120.2->CPU->GPU->RAD120.1->RES

after changing my mind about 17 times I decided that

RES->PUMP->RAD120.2->CPU->RAD120.1->GPU->RES

Makes the most sense.

Stupidly I then read somewhere that you should go straight from the pump to the CPU at this point I thought
I'd ask what you guys think.

Is there an "Ideal" order? im not fussed about having 1-2° more/less heat.

Also I've read repeatedly that you should put the Res at the top of the case? but then see allot of people have theirs at the back
or on the case floor?
what does having the res at the top do? my two choices would be A) hang it on the MB wall between the MB and the Drive Bays or
B) hang it from the top of the case where there is room for a 90mm exhaust (I would be forced to use a smaller res though).

What is a good thing to look for in the rads? should I avoid certain Brands?
I see many people using swiftech Pumps but I'm yet to find someone who sells them here (Germany) what is another recommended brand?

I'm planning on getting the XSPC Razor GTX260 for the GFX card but have not yet decided on a CPU Block.

I'm trying to stick to buying locally as German customs is having a field day whacking taxes on anything that comes from abroad at the moment.

I have more questions but I'm at work and someone just hijacked my train of thought lol so I'm sure ill post more over time.

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Arcygenical]

Loop order does not make any difference... But, pulling cool air through your largest radiator is definitely a good bet. General consensus is to have your pump feed directly into the CPU, but this, in practice, makes very little difference.

Having your resevoir in the top if the case allows for an easier bleeding experience. it can be in any location, really, without any real harm... It just makes the first hour or so of filling easier. Also, a reservoir does nothing for temps... So, don't concern yourself with having to use a "smaller reservoir" if that's required.

A triple radiator, or a double + 1 will cool your setup.

 

[cytech]

Cheers Arc.


This are the componants i'm planning to get:


CPU D-TEK FuZion v2 Universal
GPU XSPC Razor 260
RES EK-Multioption 150
PUMP DangerDen DD-CPX-Pro
Rad1 Swiftech MCR220 240mm
Rad2 Swiftech MCR120 120mm

all connected using 1/2" tubing

Does any one have any experience with said parts? is there anything there that i should keep my fingers from?

 

[anr11]

Greetings! I am in Germany as well so I can help you out with a good shop: www.aquatuning.de

I have already spent way too much money there. The service is excellent, they have lots of stuff that's hard to find here. Another one is www.a-c-shop.de. They have lots of Feser stuff if you are looking for that.

The components you have picked are pretty much exactly what I would have recommended to you with the possible exception of the CPU block. I have used the Fuzion2 and there is nothing wrong with it but you should really consider the OCZ Hydroflow. It will be more than enough to cool your CPU within a couple degrees of the more expensive blocks and has a superior mounting system to the Fuzion.

 

[filthysanchez]

Cheers Arc.


This are the componants i'm planning to get:


CPU D-TEK FuZion v2 Universal
GPU XSPC Razor 260
RES EK-Multioption 150
PUMP DangerDen DD-CPX-Pro
Rad1 Swiftech MCR220 240mm
Rad2 Swiftech MCR120 120mm

all connected using 1/2" tubing

Does any one have any experience with said parts? is there anything there that i should keep my fingers from?

I'd change out the pump to an MCP355+top or MCP655, and change the res to the new revision MCRES. Also, 7/16" tubing is easier to work with, on top of being cheaper.

 

[anr11]

I haven't seen the new revision micro res here yet so that's not really an option unfortunately. No real reason to change the pump as the the one he has chosen is a strong performer and an excellent value and will easily be more than adequate for this loop.

 

[Markistehnamezor]

If i were to do it my loop would go: res>pump>240 radiator>cpu>120 radiator> gpu>res. Have a cooler coolant for the cpu so it runs better.

 

[Arcygenical]

If i were to do it my loop would go: res>pump>240 radiator>cpu>120 radiator> gpu>res. Have a cooler coolant for the cpu so it runs better.

It would run slightly better with a radiator in the middle, but not by any more than 0.1c or so.

And OP: Definitely go for the MCP655 or DDC+ w/ top (also called DDC3.2 and other names). The MCP655 is the pinnacle of durability, but the DDC+ with a custom top is slightly better in the flow department... At the expense of longevity.

I say MCP655 w the speed control, personally.

 

[cytech]

Hi guys,

Greetings! I am in Germany as well so I can help you out with a good shop: www.aquatuning.de

I have already spent way too much money there. The service is excellent, they have lots of stuff that's hard to find here. Another one is www.a-c-shop.de. They have lots of Feser stuff if you are looking for that.

The components you have picked are pretty much exactly what I would have recommended to you with the possible exception of the CPU block. I have used the Fuzion2 and there is nothing wrong with it but you should really consider the OCZ Hydroflow. It will be more than enough to cool your CPU within a couple degrees of the more expensive blocks and has a superior mounting system to the Fuzion.

The aquatuning site is where ive been thinking of buying as they seem to have a great selection of stuff. and thanks for the tipp on the OCZ Block that will save me €40 for almost the same performance.

I'd change out the pump to an MCP355+top or MCP655, and change the res to the new revision MCRES. Also, 7/16" tubing is easier to work with, on top of being cheaper.

I haven't seen the new revision micro res here yet so that's not really an option unfortunately. No real reason to change the pump as the the one he has chosen is a strong performer and an excellent value and will easily be more than adequate for this loop.

The res is also available at aquatuning I've swaped to the micro now. can't seem to find either of those pumps in germany yet so I will prob stick to the DD. I've noticed that the Swiftech pumps seem really hard to get in germany

aha after a bit of searching I've just found that the swiftech pumps run under a different name DOH! will do some reserch and then decide which one to go for.

If i were to do it my loop would go: res>pump>240 radiator>cpu>120 radiator> gpu>res. Have a cooler coolant for the cpu so it runs better.

Those where my initial thoughts, and after sizing up everything lastnight this would also be easiest for running tubing.

 

[Markistehnamezor]

0.1C better, isn't that what every overclocker wants? People do extra things just so their temperature will improve.

 

[anr11]

Be sure to check with the shop first to ensure that the micro res is the new version before ordering. As for changing pumps, I would not bother if I were you. You will just be paying more for more than likely no improvement in temps whatsoever. The DD CPX-Pro is a solid pump. Testing has even shown it to be a bit stronger than the Laing DDC's. You will not find a better pump for the money.

 

[cytech]

I have decided to order the following later today (aslong as I can clarify a final few things)

CPU OCZ Hydroflow HF-MK1 CPU Block
GPU XSPC Razor 260
RES Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB
PUMP DangerDen DD-CPX-Pro
Rad1 Swiftech MCR220 240mm
Rad2 Swiftech MCR120 120mm

1) am I ok using the DD pump with 3/8" (10mm inside) tubing? or will this cause to much presure?
- decided to go with 3/8" as "I" think it looks better.

2) how do I tell if the RES is the newer edition or not? it's not specifically marked as a new edition in the shop

3) Im planning on putting a thermo sensor in the Loop, im thinking putting this at the end of the loop (infront of the RES) is this a good/bad place? infact thinking more about this i may put in 2 one after each rad (dammit everytime I think this gets more expensive)

4) I see the DD pump comes with a 3 pin connector, will I be ok connecting this to the Zalman for RPM readout - if yes would it be safe using the zalmans fan control for the pump or should i then just leave it at 100%?

5) Finally would some one explain why my GF complained to hell about me spending €140
on a soundcard yet didnt bat an eyelid when I asked her about spending ~ €400 on a watcooling setup


PS: are barbs better than screwdown connectors?

 

[anr11]

You will be happy with these parts. You are about to have a very nice watercooling system. Have you put much thought into fluid? I can highly recommend Feser pre-mixed in the color of your choice. It's great stuff and doesn't break down or discolor your tubing like lots of others do.

1. 3/8" ID is fine, though you may want to consider the Danger Den Feser stuff which has thicker walls and is less prone to kinking. It and the fluid I mentioned above are available from www.a-c-shop.de. Also a reputable shop where I have spent way too much money

2. The only way to know for sure is going to be to ask the shop. I kind of doubt that it is. And the original version was prone to cracking so I would recommend avoiding it if you can't confirm 100% that it's the new revision.

3. Can't really give you any recommendation one way or the other here as I have no experience with them. I don't have much use for them.

4. I don't know if using this with your fan controller would be a good idea. I'm not sure how many amps the pump pulls and how much your zalman can handle. If it's too much for your fan controller, you may end up blowing it and your pump both out so be careful and check the specs of each component here.

5. Women. They are impossible to predict and their decisions and opinions usually make little or no sense to those of us members of the opposite sex.

6. Fittings are a matter of personal preference. I like compression fittings better than barbs and find them much easier to work with. Your mileage may vary.

One more recommendation for you, before you finalize your planning and purchase, be sure to take into consideration how you will drain the loop. Consider running a fill port to your res from the top of your case for example. You can then screw a fitting into the opening of the fillport, attach a spare length of hose to the fitting and simply turn your PC upside down to drain it. It will make your life much easier down the road if you plan for this now.

 

[cytech]

The order is out

went for the EK 250 res as I could not get them to confirm the version of the micro, makes running a fill tube easier as well.

I went for Feser Acid Green Fluid and tubing

I'll get pics online as soon as I get started Hopefully this WE at the latest

 

[anr11]

Looking forward to seeing those pics. Feel free to PM me if you need anything. I don't proclaim to know everything (yet) but I do have several years of experience watercooling and have made (and learned from) quite a few mistakes.

P.S. Out of curiosity, which fittings did you end up going with?

 

[cytech]

Looking forward to seeing those pics. Feel free to PM me if you need anything. I don't proclaim to know everything (yet) but I do have several years of experience watercooling and have made (and learned from) quite a few mistakes.

P.S. Out of curiosity, which fittings did you end up going with?

Compression, they look tidier somehow

 

[anr11]

Very nice.

 

[cytech]

well although i thought everything had gone smoothly it looks like ive fried my GTX260.

First boot went fine, I checked temps cpu idle ~19°, GPU 26°.

left it running for a bit and everything looked ok.

started crysis, temps were great cpu 24° gpu 35° WOW...........about 10 minutes in BAM.....screen full of green/red lines....ok.....reboot.

rebooted, started 3dmark06.....BAM right after the loading screen green/red lines as soon as the card changes to 3d mode.

checked cables etc made sure everything was seated correctly.....turned pc on......no picture :/ and board threw out a few beeps, checked manual.....gfx card problem whilst posting


hooked the old fan up to the card, turned back on, fann runs @100% no picture


card is now lying at the bottom of the case and ive got my old 8600GT running as i didn't want to dismantle the loop yet.

i followed the XSPC guide step for step, made sure 3x that the heat pads where correctly placed etc, no leaks at all in the loop, card is bent/screws overtightened


any one have any ideas before i give up and mourn my gtx ?

 

[roary]

Quite honestly, you could have just gotten a bad card. I would take the block off of it, and remount the stock heatsink/fan assembly and try to rma it. It sounds like you took every precaution, but there could just be a problem in the card itself.

 

[anr11]

Sorry to hear about that man. If it's still not running after you re-installed the oem heatsink, it sounds like it's fried. I would do as roary says and RMA it. It could have been coincidence and the card happened to die after you installed the block (not very likely) or maybe there was bad contact somewhere on the block and something overheated. Judging from your description, I would guess the most likely culprit is the media controller, I think that's what it's called anyway. It's the small chip at the front of the card. It's refered to in the manual as the chipset. Another possiblity is that it maybe shorted. Did you use a non-conductive thermal paste and clean throroughly around the chipset before applying? You could try checking to see if any paste leaked around the other components and is possibly shorting them out.

 

[CaptainSoble]

I would definitely inspect the video card thoroughly after you take your xspc block off.
Double check to make sure you put the pads in the correct place. My only complaint
with those XSPC blocks is the instructions as far as pad placements isn't exactly clear,
and are easy to mix up. Also, when you did your build, did you work in a carpeted area?
It's winter time and you wear socks, rub it on the carpet, and maybe you discharged a
little static when handling the card? Did you notice a strange smell when you started the pc?

Another possibility would be that you could of damaged the pci-e slot when putting
the tubing on the vid card. Perhaps you put too much pressure on the vid card when applying the tubing and it damaged the slot. I've seen videos on youtube of people having
loose pcie slots after wcing their rig. Definitely try a difference pci-e slot.

I mean you did a leak check, so I'm puzzled. If there are no leaks there should be no damage. This is why I think the damage may of occurred when the card was outside the
case.

Regardless, like other people have said, the card itself could have been faulty and it just
so happened it crapped out on you after your install. I'd definitely RMA the card and give
it another go when your card comes back. Do a 24hour leak test next time using
the "paper clip" method to jump your psu....and leave all the other components unplugged except for your pump of course

I myself, leak tested for 30 minutes, which isn't advisable, and certainly stupid. Oh and
one more thing...use worm clamps!

 

[cytech]

well it would have to be a huge coincidence that it days the same day I put the block on but possible I suppose, I may have just been unlucky.

Did you use a non-conductive thermal paste and clean throroughly around the chipset
before applying? You could try checking to see if any paste leaked around the
other components and is possibly shorting them out.

I used Artic silver 5, its all I ever use. the temps displyed by the board (2xgpu and PCB) where all fine so if it has overheated then somewhere with out a sensor.

I would definitely inspect the video card thoroughly after you take your xspc block off.
Double check to make sure you put the pads in the correct place. My only complaint
with those XSPC blocks is the instructions as far as pad placements isn't exactly clear,
and are easy to mix up. Also, when you did your build, did you work in a carpeted area?
It's winter time and you wear socks, rub it on the carpet, and maybe you discharged a
little static when handling the card? Did you notice a strange smell when you started the pc?

The XSPC instructions are more clear if you use the online PDF version as they are in colour.
The build was done on the dining room tabel on an antistatic mat i borrowed from work (is grounded via the mains) I have wood flooring in the dining room, not totaly safe but better than carpet.
There was no Strange smell (i take it you mean the smell of a fried chip)

Another possibility would be that you could of damaged the pci-e slot when putting
the tubing on the vid card. Perhaps you put too much pressure on the vid card when applying the tubing and it damaged the slot. I've seen videos on youtube of people having
loose pcie slots after wcing their rig. Definitely try a difference pci-e slot.

the PCIe slot is fine, I have my 8800GT sat in there at the moment with tno trouble.

I mean you did a leak check, so I'm puzzled. If there are no leaks there should be no damage. This is why I think the damage may of occurred when the card was outside the
case.

Regardless, like other people have said, the card itself could have been faulty and it just
so happened it crapped out on you after your install. I'd definitely RMA the card and give
it another go when your card comes back. Do a 24hour leak test next time using
the "paper clip" method to jump your psu....and leave all the other components unplugged except for your pump of course

I myself, leak tested for 30 minutes, which isn't advisable, and certainly
stupid. Oh and one more thing...use worm clamps!

I leaked checked for
about 16 hours Fri night -> Sat, with no leaks at all. ths PSU wouldnt jump
start (runs for about 3 sec then turns off again, a feature of the OCZ PSU I
gather so I sat an older PC next to man and ran power from that one. Ill try to
RMA it this week and see what they say. Guess i won't know if i dont try my
luck. if not i guess ill have to stick with the 8800 for a few weeks till i can
get a new GTX.

Other than this im perfectly happy, CPU is 26° under load at stock, I'll OC it when i get a replacement for the GTX and see how well it all runs

 

[anr11]

It is a very danerous practice to use AS5 in applications such as this. It is conductive and can lead to short circuits. I would be willing to bet this is what happened here. Before you RMA, I would recommend checking thoroughly all areas where you applied the paste to make sure none squirted out and caused a short somewhere. If you are lucky and do find this, the card may work again after cleaning the paste away and removing the short. Next time try using Arctic Ceramique or Arctic Cooling MX-1.

 

[cytech]

Possible I Guess.
I've used AS for a good while and never had a problem with it as I do take care when applying it.

Ill check tonight and make sure

I'm not pissed or trying to blaim anyone else for it, I Knew the risk when I took it apart. sure it's annoying but hell its only a GFX card.
I live by the motto if you can't live without it or can't replace it don't mess with it. just means i have to wait a few weeks at most to get a new one.

 

[anr11]

That's a good attitude to have.

It sucks that you first water cooling experience ended up like this though. At least, I'm assuming this is your first since you posted asking for noobie advice.

Anyway, I wish you good luck and hope everything turns out alright in the end. And don't forget to post some pics when you are ready. I'm anxious to see how it turned out.

 

[cytech]

First time wcing yes, been building/modding/tweaking PCs for about 14 years though.


took the card back apart tonight, and it was def my fault. you where rite about the media controler.

I either over estimated how much paste to put on or was bloody careless when i put it on, there was hair thin line of it going from the chip over a few of the resistors(?) arround the chip and i reckon it shorted somewhere, as there is no visual sign of a burnout anywhere.

ah well shit happens, I think ill destroy the card and youtube it

was pondering going double atis as I have a X-Fire MB =) wait and see how much cash i have in jan, but ill prob stick to Nvidia as my last ati experience did not ave a happy end.

 

[anr11]

Before you destroy it, try just cleaning it off. The card might very well work again. There's a good chance no permanent damage was done since it didn't smoke or stink.

I know exactly what you mean about ATI. I swore the last time I would let them disappoint me was when the Rage Fury Maxx came out and stunk up the place. The few times since then I have decided to give them another chance, I have only ended up disappointed because of crappy drivers, poor build quality, and hardware failure. My experiences with Nvidia have been much much better. I am glad that ATI is around though as competition of course drives innovation and keeps prices at least somewhat in check.

 

[cytech]

heres a few pics not finished yet though.

 

[StellaTerra]

Nice, looks clean.

I think something interesting about this setup is that the use of water cooling has decreased the "rat's nest" effect on your wiring, though I imagine that has significantly to do with the time you put in to routing and getting annoyed at kinks and whatnot. Ironically good wiring is supposed to be good for airflow, which just became significantly less important. ^_^

 

[cytech]

aye, i've spent a fair few hours sofar.

still got a few things to sort with fan cables etc, also need to find somethng nicer than cable ties for the front rad.

its a work in progress but i'm not in a hurry.

 

[sirmonkey1985]

looks good.. been following this thread for a few days.. good to see the end product so far..

 

[cytech]

Before you destroy it, try just cleaning it off. The card might very well work again. There's a good chance no permanent damage was done since it didn't smoke or stink.

ah missed this post last night


I allready did, spent about 30 mins cleaning it all off, put it back to gether and it won't boot anymore. (used an electronic cleaner made for PCBs/chips)

I should have taken the first few crashes as a sign...never mind, you learn from your mistakes =)

 

[soulesschild]

ah missed this post last night


I allready did, spent about 30 mins cleaning it all off, put it back to gether and it won't boot anymore. (used an electronic cleaner made for PCBs/chips)

I should have taken the first few crashes as a sign...never mind, you learn from your mistakes =)

Now you know

 

[sirmonkey1985]

if you cleaned it off and its an evga or bfg try rma'ing it.. i rma'ed a card that i screwed up and hit the wrong button and set the gpu to 900 mhz on a 7300GT.. computer hard locked and i restarted it and fried the video bios.. told BFG exactly what i did and they still replaced it.. ended up getting an 8600GT instead and ebayed it for the extra money since i got an 8800GT to replace the 7300GT anyways..


nvm didnt see until now that its a Zotac.. have fun destroying the card i want to see the video.. time for some hardware skeet shooting.. wish i still had my video when i did that with a bunch of useless 486's i found in the garbage behind my school..

 

[BillParrish]

Looking at your pics I noticed the Gigabyte board and the heatpipes. Cooling the Northbridge and mosfets are a huge help (mainly NB) in OCing. Eliminating the cpu fan/heatsink also eliminates the air movement that helps cool that heatpipe. An easy solution is to pull that "Gigabyte" thin metal nameplate "bling" off of the NB and use a 40mm fan with a big drop of silocone adhesive (aka RTV) in each hole (1/2 of the "glob" in the fan hole, 1/2 out of the hole) and with the computer laying down gently put the fan on the NB heatsink. very lightly press to ensure the silicone gets onto the heatsink fins but dont press all the way down, and let the silicone dry, Insta rubber fan mount.

http://mysite.verizon.net/ressdxka/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/computer003.jpg

I buy cheap hard drive bay coolers from newegg that have 2 or more fans and pull the fans out, cheaper than buying individual fans when you factor in shipping, A fan usually lasts about a year so haveing an extra is good and thats the beauty of the silicone. A quick twist and the fan is off, any extra silicone rubs right off the heatsink and glue a new fan on in minutes.

Another tip, If you have an electric drill - if you get a 1/2 or 5/8 inch metal hole saw bit from hardware store and drill a hole just above and a little to the left of your pump in the motherboard tray, you could route your sata cables from the board,( and maybe the power for your video cards too) through the hole to the backside of the MB tray and then up the backside of the tray and up to your hard drives. IF you are very careful and use rags to catch the chips and vacume out the bottom of the case and then wipe with a damp rag (drill from the backside to the board side so most of the shavings would be on the back/ non-motherboard side of the case, you could drill it without disassembling the machine, just move/disconnect the SATA cables. You should be able to find a rubber grommet to fit the hole as well to give it a really nice finished appearance.
Just take easy but prudent steps to catch/clean up all the shaving and take care in making sure you drill in the right place and dont hit anything on your blind side. A very small pilot hole drilled from the board side would help make sure you where in the exact correct place. If that case is steel a small kitchen magnet is also good for finding any stray shavings.

 

[sirmonkey1985]

nice idea BillParrish.. wonder if that would work on my biostar 780g northbridge.. since that thing gets to hot to even touch.. and seeing that clean case just makes me want to actually make an attempt to clean up my wiring in my antec 300 case..

 

[cytech]

have fun destroying the card i want to see the
video.. time for some hardware skeet shooting.. wish i still had my video
when i did that with a bunch of useless 486's i found in the garbage behind my
school..

I was thinking of tieing it to the back of my 1:8 Nitro Monster Truck for a few
rounds

Looking at your pics I noticed the Gigabyte board
and the heatpipes. Cooling the Northbridge and mosfets are a huge help (mainly
NB) in OCing. Eliminating the cpu fan/heatsink also eliminates the air
movement that helps cool that heatpipe. An easy solution is to pull that
"Gigabyte" thin metal nameplate "bling" off of the NB and use a 40mm fan with a
big drop of silocone adhesive (aka RTV) in each hole (1/2 of the "glob" in the
fan hole, 1/2 out of the hole) and with the computer laying down gently put the
fan on the NB heatsink. very lightly press to ensure the silicone gets onto the
heatsink fins but dont press all the way down, and let the silicone dry, Insta
rubber fan mount.

Hi Bill, Long time no speak

You probably don't remember but you helped me over clock my Q6600/P945-DS3 last
year with your Great GB Thread.

you seem to have read my mind I was allready eying up some of these:

"Yate Loon D40SM-12A(5000rpm) ( 40x40x10mm )"

for that purpose.

Another tip, If you have an electric drill - if
you get a 1/2 or 5/8 inch metal hole saw bit from hardware store and
drill a hole just above and a little to the left of your pump in the motherboard
tray, you could route your sata cables from the board,( and maybe the power for
your video cards too) through the hole to the backside of the MB tray and then
up the backside of the tray and up to your hard drives. IF you are very careful
and use rags to catch the chips and vacume out the bottom of the case and then
wipe with a damp rag (drill from the backside to the board side so most of the
shavings would be on the back/ non-motherboard side of the case, you could drill
it without disassembling the machine, just move/disconnect the SATA cables. You
should be able to find a rubber grommet to fit the hole as well to give it a
really nice finished appearance. Just take easy but prudent steps to
catch/clean up all the shaving and take care in making sure you drill in the
right place and dont hit anything on your blind side. A very small pilot hole
drilled from the board side would help make sure you where in the exact correct
place. If that case is steel a small kitchen magnet is also good for finding
any stray shavings.

This also has been at the back of my mind since I bought the case, as great as
it is, I do miss some things (compared to the antec 1200 I recently built a
system in for a friend. I was thinking of drilling 3 holes in the MB Tray. One
abouve the MB for the 8 pin Power, one for the Main MB Power and where you
mentioned for the SATA/PCIe Power and Case cables.

Also I'm looking at getting a PSU with cable management, I ballsed up when I
ordered I got the one without CM -.- What you can't see on those pictures are
the unused cables from the PSU hanging out of the other side of the case lol.


Temps are looking good, with the 120MM fans at 800rpm i have a 20° CPU Idle
(measured with speedfan) 26° water temp (sensor in the res) but odly the case
Ambiant temp has risen 5° to 31° (The misses had the heating on in jsut about
everyroom in the apartment last night though so maybe thats why lol)

.. and seeing that clean case just makes me want
to actually make an attempt to clean up my wiring in my antec 300 case..

Nice to see I inspired some one

This is the first time I've ever made the effort to tidy a case (ill post pics of one of my other systems when I get home) and I must say, its a nice to look into a nice clean rig

 

[cytech]

well bugger me.

boredom took over me last night and i started inspecting the 260 to see if i can find where i went wrong.

Under strong light I saw that the bottom left corner of the mediacontroler? (chip at the front of the card) has chipped off?!?

im not sure how the f... I managed that, i purposefully did not overtighten the screws

also not understanding why the system booted the first few times...

or would the chip overheating maybe cause it to crack? ive only ever experienced chips burning out, surely it would burn out before it would crack??

there is definalty no sign of it burning, no smell or discolouration(is that a word?)


any ideas?

 

[222 1/3 evil]

Cracks are usually from physical damage not from over heating. At least in my experience. It was probably a combo of pressure from the WB and the AS shorting...

 

[cytech]

sooooooo

The delivery guy bought me some new toys today

After grilling the last card i deciding to play it safe

and whilst i was at it i got some more ram as my DDR2-800 wanst letting me get past 4Ghz:

had to go to work before unpacking but ill hopefully get it all setup tonight.