My proposed setup... comments please!

M

mr_ouija

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 18, 2005
Messages
317
I'll make this short, here is my list:

Already Purchased:

77 Bonneville w/ AC Heatercore (FEDCO 2-302) -- $17 @ O'Reillys
Hardware for modding Heatercore (including Bernzomatic Torch) -- $24 @ O'Reilly's
10' 1/2" ID 1/8" Wall Vinyl Tubing -- $6 @ Home Depot

Need to Purchase:

Dangerden TDX for AMD64 (1/2" Barbs) -- $53 @ DangerDen
Dangerden Maze4 for GPU (1/2" Barbs) -- $47 @ DangerDen
Dangerden 1/2" Fillport -- $12 @ Dangerden
Hydor L25 Pump -- $28 @ marinedepot.com
1/2" T Fitting -- $2 @ Home Depot
10 Hose Clamps -- $1 ea @ Home Depot

Need to decide on:

2 x 120mm Fans (for Radiator) low profile would be nice as I have little room to work with.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome as well as stores with better prices :). I'm still considering what pump and cpu/gpu blocks to go with, but I think I will go with those listed. System specs are in sig, some G.Skill pc4400 will be on the way come Tuesday, which is probably when the Pump and blocks will be ordered.

TIA.

Marc
 
Yeah, I suggest you get most of the stuff from other stores...check froogle if you want

the water blocks are a good amount cheaper (over 10%) from resellers
 
Oh, ad you may want to look into the best pump for that block. The TDX supposedly needs a higher flowing pump, and I dont know how good that hyodor will perform in that setup.
 
every thing looks fine, except for the tubing. I've heard that Vinyl kinks very easly, might wanna check that out. By the way if your getting new memory i would love to take your old stuff.
 
www.sidewindercomputers.com has a very nice selection of fans, for those who live in the US.

the fan that is right for you depends on your sensitivity to noise and what frequency range that you can tollerate.

for myself, i like to use oversized barbs, 5/8 inch in 1/2 inch tubing for that extra feeling of security.

however, i also use ball valves rate for hydraulic pressures, again for that added feeling of security, so take that comment with a grain (or two) of salt...............
 
As I buy new comp. parts, I've been upgrading my small freebsd server. Presently it's an xp1700 w/ 256mb RAM. Most likely, my current ram will move over there (along with my old CPU, xp-m 2500), but I will keep you in mind. :)

I'm presently trying to find better prices on the blocks, and I can upgrade to an L30 or L35 Pump if necessary...

L25 = 265gph w/ 50" max head -- $28
L30 = 320gph w/ 75" max head -- $38
L35 = 450gph w/ 75" max head -- $46

I'm looking to pay no more than $50 for the pump. Trying to keep this Watercooling setup as cheap as possible, while getting a nice cooling setup.
 
DFI Daishi said:
the fan that is right for you depends on your sensitivity to noise and what frequency range that you can tollerate.
Click to expand...

As far as the fans go, this will be my first quiet PC. My last 2 systems were both LOUD. I went from an xp1700 @ 2.2ghz using a Thermoengine w/ Delta Black Label to a xp-m 2500 @ 2.5ghz using a AX-7 w/ Vantec Tornado. Now with the A64 I'd like to make this PC quiet as can be, hence the W/C.


As far as the Vinyl kinking easily... I got the thickest walled stuff they had at Home Depot. It can bend pretty tight with minimal kinking. At a cost of $.56/foot, I have to at least try it. :)
 
I think I may have found my fans.

2 of these should do the trick.

I know I see them in a lot of case pictures, so I would assume they are good quality fans. Now to see about finding them for cheaper...

Oh yes, and I will be adding some Arctic Silver 5 to the order as well.
 
I would definitely go with the l35 or l30, then you can use the #4 or #5 nozzle with the TDX and see a nice temperature drop in the cpu.
 
mr_ouija said:
I think I may have found my fans.

2 of these should do the trick.

I know I see them in a lot of case pictures, so I would assume they are good quality fans. Now to see about finding them for cheaper...

Oh yes, and I will be adding some Arctic Silver 5 to the order as well.
Click to expand...
i havent heard much about these, but i have heard that panaflo are supposed to be some of the best for being quiet and strong.
 
A friend of mine from work has an Eheim 1260 he is willing to sell me. Brand new for $40... problem with it was all the extra adaptors and stuff that came with it were broken in transit. He called up who he purchased it from, and they sent him a complete new one. So, I would have to do some epoxying etc to use 1/2" barbs, which from what he tells me, I think i would have to do anyways?

Anyway, I was just wondering if this pump is TOO big? If not, this is a damned good deal seeing as it retails for $120 right? Thanks and lemme know because I'll probably buy it tomorrow at work if it's gonna do the job. :)
 
I have 3 of those Evercool aluminum fans. They're great! Definitely a nice change from my old Tornados! :D

You can get them a lot cheaper from directron.com, too!
 
Thx for advice about fans from Directron.com. I hadn't even looked there yet. Sadly however, they don't have the TDX for A64. :( Otherwise, I could pretty much make my whole order from them.
Looks like I can get pretty much everything else however...

2x Evercool AL 120mm @ $9.99ea
1x DD Maze4 GPU Block @ $39.99
1x AS 5 12g (To last forever) @ $12.99
1x DD Fillport @ $11.95
1x Water Wetter @ $5.99
Then a "T" fitting I can grab locally, along with clamps. Then from there I need to find a place to order a TDX for A64 and some Ramsinks for the 6800gt. Or maybe I could cut this up for ramsinks, but for $16 I could just buy some ramsinks by Vantec or something...

Anyone know a spot to purchase a A64 TDX aside from DD themselves?
 
www.voyeurmods.com has some good prices, too. dont get their uv dye though it SUCKS ASS!

oh and read up on water wetter...lots of people say it's crap. I use zerex (can also be had from voyeurmods.com, but I'm just using the normal Zerex from Pep Boys)
 
Don't waste your time trying the home depot vinyl tubing, it will put too much stress on your components. That is, if you can even get the tubing to bend enough to hook it up.

Buy some 1/6" wall MasterKleer from McMaster, that's good stuff and the price is great.
 
thewhiteguy said:
Don't waste your time trying the home depot vinyl tubing, it will put too much stress on your components. That is, if you can even get the tubing to bend enough to hook it up.

Buy some 1/6" wall MasterKleer from McMaster, that's good stuff and the price is great.
Click to expand...

I think you might be confusing the vinyl tubing with braided pvc
 
Well, My orders are in. Totalling ~$80 for Ramsinks, TDX and nozzle kit from FrozenCPU and ~$95 for 2 120mm fans, fan grills, as5 (12grams), DD Fillport, and maze4 gpu cooler. Going a little over my original proposed budget, but I think it will be worthwhile in the end. :)
 
Erasmus354 said:
I think you might be confusing the vinyl tubing with braided pvc
Click to expand...
I am not. I tried the vinyl stuff from home depot first. It's a good thing it's cheap, because I'm only using about 3 inches of it right now, from the reservoir to the pump. Everything else is Tygon or MasterKleer.
 
Okay, I have a question. I purchased a 1260 used (a few hours) from a friend, but all the fittings etc aren't with it. It's just the pump, impeller and the inlet pieces. I need to find out what size the threads are so I can go pickup some fittings to get this project going.

The only pieces I am missing now are pump fittings, 1/2" tee fitting, ramsinks, cpu waterblock and clamps for the hose. I'd like to pick up all the fittings tomorrow after work at Ace and Saturday the TDX (w/ nozzle kit) and vga ramsinks will be here. I was reading on the 1260 at a UK site and it said something about 3/4" BSP fittings. I assume there is some difference between BSP and NPT threads, but being a 1260 sold in the states, I would think it would be 3/4" NPT, and I just want to verify that.

Thanks!
 
You can get BSP threaded fittings at Home Depot, I believe. Otherwise check mcmaster-carr.
 
I got some 3/4" NPT to 1/2" Hose Barb and they went in without a hitch. Put some teflon tape on there and it seems leakfree. I may end up putting some caulk in there too however, since they went in so easy, I'm afraid of them vibrating loose. With such a monstrous pump, I imagine it wouldn't take long!
 
Well, today brought some bad news, and a little good too.

I received the last pieces of my watercooling puzzle today, the TDX and Ramsinks (Rock! \m/). First thing I did was try and fit this HUGE pump in my little case... I had to remove the HDD rack, but she fits, barely! Next came the process of mounting waterblocks and beginning to set up so I can get the system built just right, hoses right length, etc. Then planned to rip it all back out and fill/bleed it outside of case, and then let her run til monday or so.

Anyways, after mounting the TDX, I realized that my Maze4 was NOT compatible with my 6800gt. I have the non-acetal version (Didn't realize there was a difference, so chalk up another order) So after ripping off the stock heatsink on the 6800, and pointing and laughing at the thermal transfer tape on the ram, I had an idea to improve on it a bit. Since I was dremelling away at my case already, I took out a sanding wheel and ground down the little standoffs that kept the heatsink from sitting directly on the ram. Then, applied some AS5 on all the ram and the GPU, then reattached heatsink. Everything looks good, and so far, she's purring like a kitten. Idle @ 52C, down from 56C (Joy, something going right), but no load temps yet.

While I was in the modding mood, I stealthed my DVD-RW, which turned out pretty good. Also cut some holes in the Motherboard tray and by the PSU for routing cables, these also went well. I began measuring out where the holes will go in the top of the case for my 2 120mm fans, and got as far as drilling out the rivots, removing the top and drilling the pilot holes before realizing what time it was and how much noise it was going to make, so this is going to be postponed. Since I had some downtime I applied 4 coats of primer to the heatercore, which looks like it's going to turn out well. I also devised a mounting plan for the heatercore, which should kick ass if I do say so myself. :) Oh, and I also lengthened my 24pin -> 20pin adaptor for MB power, which turned out very ghetto, so I need to find where to buy one ~6-8 inches.

Right now everything is back together and running with no sparks/fire so I'm happy about that. The AS5 on the stock hsf for my 3500 lowered idle temps to 38C from ~43-45C, makes me more and more eager to fit that TDX and O/C this SoB. BTW, my 3500 is an 0501fpmw, which I'm hoping is a good O/Cing chip. When my roommate wakes up, and I wake up from the coma I'm about to slip into, I'll get the camera cable from him so I can post some pics of what I've done so far. :)

Now I'm going to slip into that coma...
 
I think even the new acetal/brass maze 4 requires special mounting hardware, I think they are the same as the old maze4. Send an email to DD before you waste money shipping back that old maze4, cause I think all you need to do is order the proper mounting hardware.
 
new acetyl also has some additional retention holes drilled into it at appriopriate spacing for new cards.

i fear that my old maze 4-1 and i will be parting company for my next upgrade.
 
None of the holes on the non-acetal/brass top line up with the holes on the 6800, believe me I tried to make it work. Also, the mounting screws are too thick to even go through the PCB. The Acetal kit is made to work with 6800s etc.

On a side note, some more hacking of the Lian-Li will be happening in about 45 minutes. :)
 
From what I have heard, dangerden is really good about that sort of thing... Just call em up, explain what happened and see if you can just get a replacement.
 
Yes, I was impressed with their service. I accidentally cracked my waterblock top (lucite) with Isopropyl (bad!) and they didn't make me pay for a new one!
 
w00t! Acetal top arrived today, going to swap out the normal one for the acetal one and start fitting.

As a side note, I ordered 1GB (2x512) G.Skill PC4400 2.5-4-4-8 (2-2-2-5 @ PC3200) and it looks like I got the last one Newegg had... Can't wait for that to get here. :)

I'm off to fit these Waterblocks and see what I can do with starting leak checking it tonight.
 
Most of the pics turned out crappy because I was using a low-light setting, but here's a few that weren't so bad...

77 Bonneville Heatercore in PC-60:
heatercore_fitting.gif


Heatercore and PSU in PC-60 (tight fit):
heatercore_fitting2.gif


Test fit of pump with system in case (was waiting on waterblocks at the time):
pump_fitting.gif


A match made in heaven:
meanttobe.gif


The aftermath of said match (small hole is for DD fillport):
aftermath.gif


Hope that's good for now. When I setup the W/C finally, I'll take more pics of the case mods etc. Wish I coulda got to it tonight but I got busy fixing up my other comp. Read about that here
 
THANK YOU!!!!!

You are now officialy teh r0x0rz.

Seiously, I've been wantig to see how that bonni core fit inthe pc-g0 series for along damn time and now I know I want to do it with my pc-6077.

How many bays does it and the two fans take up ? 2? 3?
 
So how many drive bays does the 302 take up? I am guessing two, is there enough room for a small shroud and still only take up two drive bays?
 
When I get it finished, it will take up the top 2 5.25 bays. There is room between the core and the fans to put a low profile shroud there, which I am not going to do. I'm thinking of putting some weatherstripping along the sides of the heatercore to use the existing aluminum as a shroud, might just need a little something at the PSU end of the core.

In the picture posted above, the heatercore is sitting on the 2 ledges your CD-Rom sits on. It'll sit there, but not secure enough for my liking. I have some small Aluminum angle to fix that though. :)

I'm gonna be getting some better pics soon, so possibly in the next few hours look for a better pic of how much room is available. :)
 
Okay, here is what it looks like it is going to be, just wondering if this will work... (note, that fitment is a bit different in the actual PC as pump isn't sitting exactly like that. Also, the drives are getting turned around so the cabling won't be so tight there either. My main concern is the T fitting. Being that it's on the suction side, I think it would be ok, but I'm not experienced in W/C so I'm asking for the opinion of someone that knows what they're doing. :)

The pump is an Ehiem 1260, it's f'ing huge.

pump_fitting_revised.GIF


Edit: Sorry for crappy pic, just editting the old one with paint since I'm using my soon-to-be serverbox.
 
try to put everything in-line as possible, IE on that t, mak eth efill line go off the t part if its possible at all.
 
Punx_Clever said:
try to put everything in-line as possible, IE on that t, mak eth efill line go off the t part if its possible at all.
Click to expand...

I was about to say the same thing...it looks like you have it the other way around in the drawing, but that is probably a limitation of paint :) (right?)
 
Erasmus354 said:
I was about to say the same thing...it looks like you have it the other way around in the drawing, but that is probably a limitation of paint :) (right?)
Click to expand...


No that is exactly what it shows. That was the question I had, is how much would it effect my system like that being that it is on the suction side and all. I understand it's going to limit flow, as would any sharp bends AFAIK, correct? I was just wondering if it would make a huge difference, since i have such a high flow pump (12' head and like 670gph are the ratings, IIRC).


As it stands right now, I pretty much decided to leave the pump outside of the case and get some tygon or clearflex on order. I think the main reason I can't do it right is because of the limitation caused by how hard the vinyl hose is.
 
yeah, it will basically act like a 90 degree elbow, which you should always avoid like the plague if you can. It shouldn't be hard to set the T up the other way, since it doesn't matter if you have a kink or whatnot in the fill line, just so long as you are able to straighten it all out during filling/bleeding.
 
Roger.

The current setup is the 'right' way of doing it. It puts the T like normal but has the pump out of the case, just beside it. I finally got the system together, and the pump is a f'ing monster! I had one leak so far, but that was because the barb kept getting loose from my playing with it. :)

I have it off now as i have exposed some more bubbles, and working on getting all those out is proving to be a pain in the ass. Turning on the pump just made it worse, turning the large bubbles into teeny tiny ones... with barely any coming up the T. On a side note, it appears the water is flowing like crazy, hopefully that will help keep temps low. :)
 
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