Mined Cards vs. "New" Cards from Retailers

Horiscopes

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Jan 15, 2018
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Hey y'all,
I've been following all the hype and stuff for the new RTX cards, and all the new processor stuff, and that's cool and all. However, I'm broke, so that stuff doesn't really apply to me in a large sense. I have been looking for a 1080ti/1080 or 1070ti/1070 for awhile, and I think I found a card that's right for me. I was wondering if all the rumors and talk about how mining cards fail after about two months are true, and what the real differences would be between a card I bought after it had been running in a rig ~50C for 4 months vs. a retail new card. If the card was well-maintained, would there even be any difference?

I'm really interested to hear from you guys who seem to have so much experience with everything hardware.

Thanks in advance you guys :)
- Casahawk
 

Hakaba

Gawd
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
846
Most people will tell you to avoid buying mined cards for various reasons, most of these reasons lack any real centralized non biased tracking system (like a back blaze for video cards) to prove mining shortens life of the card. Everyone will toss their story or a friends and try to pass it as it’s what happens to every card out there, from both anti/pro mining perspectives.

I’ve had GPUs arrive DOA and or die through normal everyday use, this also applies to most hardware as well. I do not think any of my CPUs have died though.

None of the 1070s I have sold off earlier this year have died, I also run one in my Hypervisor and another in my VR setup downstairs. Other people here have had mining cards running for 7+ years.

50c isn’t even an issue, as some modern day cards cooling do not kick in till it is 50c-60c.

IMHO, find a good price, sometimes with transferralable warranty, and maybe expect a fan to fail then just water cool it later. But do not pay anywhere near full price for the card.
 

Horiscopes

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Most people will tell you to avoid buying mined cards for various reasons, most of these reasons lack any real centralized non biased tracking system (like a back blaze for video cards) to prove mining shortens life of the card. Everyone will toss their story or a friends and try to pass it as it’s what happens to every card out there, from both anti/pro mining perspectives.

I’ve had GPUs arrive DOA and or die through normal everyday use, this also applies to most hardware as well. I do not think any of my CPUs have died though.

None of the 1070s I have sold off earlier this year have died, I also run one in my Hypervisor and another in my VR setup downstairs. Other people here have had mining cards running for 7+ years.

50c isn’t even an issue, as some modern day cards cooling do not kick in till it is 50c-60c.

IMHO, find a good price, sometimes with transferralable warranty, and maybe expect a fan to fail then just water cool it later. But do not pay anywhere near full price for the card.
Yeah it looks like a good deal as well. I'm gonna work on water-cooling my streaming setup at some point, and then i'll post some cool pics of it with rgb for the hype montages. The seller has a warranty against DOA cards, and seems like he is a cool guy. I kinda just wish there was an actually empirically based comparison between cards used in mining and "new" retail cards
 

Algrim

[H]ard|Gawd
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Buying used always has a risk no matter how they've been used. The only question you have to ask is if the cost savings is worth the risk. You mention this seller has a warranty against DOA but that may not mean much if it fails very shortly thereafter.
 
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If you can verify that the card was kept clean, in a climate-controlled area, and used by a smart miner (meaning it was underclocked for power efficiency), you can buy a mining GPU at very little risk.

Trouble is that verifying those things is practically impossible, and in the end it comes down to your judgement and degree of trust in your seller.

I'd suggest checking out the buy-sell-trade forum here on [H]. This way you have a reasonable assurance you're buying from a hardware enthusiast who likely takes care of their kit and also doesn't want to sell abused hardware. It's where I got my mined 1080ti about 5 months ago, and it's humming along underwater with no issues. =)
 

Horiscopes

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If you can verify that the card was kept clean, in a climate-controlled area, and used by a smart miner (meaning it was underclocked for power efficiency), you can buy a mining GPU at very little risk.

Trouble is that verifying those things is practically impossible, and in the end it comes down to your judgement and degree of trust in your seller.

I'd suggest checking out the buy-sell-trade forum here on [H]. This way you have a reasonable assurance you're buying from a hardware enthusiast who likely takes care of their kit and also doesn't want to sell abused hardware. It's where I got my mined 1080ti about 5 months ago, and it's humming along underwater with no issues. =)
So undervolting and underclocking are things to look for? That makes sense because I always hear people talk about overclocked cards burning out over time. do you have a custom water loop or do you use prebuilt stuff, EK, etc?
 

Horiscopes

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Buying used always has a risk no matter how they've been used. The only question you have to ask is if the cost savings is worth the risk. You mention this seller has a warranty against DOA but that may not mean much if it fails very shortly thereafter.
The cards I think I'm gonna grab are like 66% (or less) of retail price, and the sellers all have god heatware. Have you had any experiences with mining cards or sellers? I'm happy to take any tips from you guys, that's what I'm here for.
 

Hakaba

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So undervolting and underclocking are things to look for? That makes sense because I always hear people talk about overclocked cards burning out over time. do you have a custom water loop or do you use prebuilt stuff, EK, etc?

When I was mining it was about initial ROI and maximizing power/profits ratio. Depending on the coin mined would depend on how you would run cards. Some coins loved faster memory or higher clocks etc.. Ideally you would want to under volt, clock, and start looking at a hash performance to power ratio and find stability in your rig versus letting it run at defaults and consuming more power than was needed. But I cannot say every miner did this it’s possible they just push every setting as far as they could and run the card till it has problems and sell.

Also I ran a full EKWB build, was expensive, would recommend from personal experience to avoid a mono block unless you really need to cool the VRMs. If you looking for a cheaper option Barrow is out there, though I’ve heard some issues I think overall they are becoming a decent choice. Additionally Barrowch does have some unique blocks/parts.

Lastly, if this is your first build, make sure you Know if the GPU is a reference or custom PCB, that will impact makers you can buy from, unless you purchase a universal mount and cool memory/VRMs seperatly.
 
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So undervolting and underclocking are things to look for? That makes sense because I always hear people talk about overclocked cards burning out over time. do you have a custom water loop or do you use prebuilt stuff, EK, etc?
Smart miners undervolt their cards because the impact to their earning potential is minimal and the impact to the electricity costs is substantial, relative to one another. It also produces less heat, meaning less wear and tear on the silicon, which will help to mitigate the fact that a mining card is typically run at load 24/7.

Even under ideal conditions during mining, you're -still- buying a used card that's been put under a stressful workload. There's some level of implied risk regardless, but vetting your seller can help mitigate that risk.

Mine's under a full custom loop with a Phanteks block, Alphacool rad, EK pump etc etc. It never gets hotter than 45°c.
 

Dermen

Limp Gawd
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I'd have no problem buying a mining card from a person with decent feedback on here or other popular forums if it had a warranty. If not it would have to be at a fairly large discount.
 

Horiscopes

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Messages
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Smart miners undervolt their cards because the impact to their earning potential is minimal and the impact to the electricity costs is substantial, relative to one another. It also produces less heat, meaning less wear and tear on the silicon, which will help to mitigate the fact that a mining card is typically run at load 24/7.

Even under ideal conditions during mining, you're -still- buying a used card that's been put under a stressful workload. There's some level of implied risk regardless, but vetting your seller can help mitigate that risk.

Mine's under a full custom loop with a Phanteks block, Alphacool rad, EK pump etc etc. It never gets hotter than 45°c.
You guys are on some next level stuff with your builds. I’m function over form for now at least, I just need it to perform and power my stream and the games I want to play. I can’t wait to get water cooling all set up though. Your setup sounds dope af man
 

Horiscopes

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I have not. I only buy new. The risk isn't worth it for me; it may be for others.
Good to know. I think that it’s the perfect time to get a mining card from a reliable seller because of the simple decline of mining (or so it seems, correct me if I’m wrong), and honestly now that I have the money for water cooling, I think that a well-maintained, undervolted/clocked card could be of a lot of use to me.
 

Horiscopes

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Messages
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When I was mining it was about initial ROI and maximizing power/profits ratio. Depending on the coin mined would depend on how you would run cards. Some coins loved faster memory or higher clocks etc.. Ideally you would want to under volt, clock, and start looking at a hash performance to power ratio and find stability in your rig versus letting it run at defaults and consuming more power than was needed. But I cannot say every miner did this it’s possible they just push every setting as far as they could and run the card till it has problems and sell.

Also I ran a full EKWB build, was expensive, would recommend from personal experience to avoid a mono block unless you really need to cool the VRMs. If you looking for a cheaper option Barrow is out there, though I’ve heard some issues I think overall they are becoming a decent choice. Additionally Barrowch does have some unique blocks/parts.

Lastly, if this is your first build, make sure you Know if the GPU is a reference or custom PCB, that will impact makers you can buy from, unless you purchase a universal mount and cool memory/VRMs seperatly.
I’m gonna hit you up when I start water cooling, I love how knowledgeable this forum is on everything electronics and hardware. Thank you for the tips, I didn’t even know about Barrow, only EKWB :)
 

Nebell

[H]ard|Gawd
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Messages
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Cards used strictly for gaming have a higher chance of failing than cards used for mining.
If someone is telling you otherwise they are talking nonsense. There's a lot of false information being spread about mining cards because people are hating on crypto miners for the price increase.
 
Joined
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Messages
2,246
Cards used strictly for gaming have a higher chance of failing than cards used for mining.
If someone is telling you otherwise they are talking nonsense. There's a lot of false information being spread about mining cards because people are hating on crypto miners for the price increase.
While there's good merit to that theory, and the motive you posit makes sense, it's only a theory. No empirical studies have been conducted that support either notion.

So you're right - there's a lot of false information being spread. XD
 

Hakaba

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846
I’m gonna hit you up when I start water cooling, I love how knowledgeable this forum is on everything electronics and hardware. Thank you for the tips, I didn’t even know about Barrow, only EKWB G

So there are a lot of companies out there, XSPC, Aplhacool, Aquatuning, Bitspower, Heatkiller, etc... Some of these companies have been around for a long time and offer really good products while others have had issues. Would really take the timer to research all of them and see what they have to offer, some companies product offerings are superior to others. You can find good information and builds here and over at www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/. EKWB is a good starting point with its cooling configurator, it will let you know most of the pieces you may need. Before I go on rant on what I would do let me say a few important things,

Do not mix Aluminum with Brass/Copper! Read what the contact/cooling part is made of when you are building to avoid mixing metals, you will find CPU blocks that are copper/nickel plating with acetal cover with aluminum should and this is fine. But a cooling plate of aluminum with acetal cover will be problematic if you are running any other copper parts.

Order fittings/tubing from same company! 10/12mm fittings from EKWB should be used with EKWB tubing, chances are other companies measure their tubing/fittings differently and it may/will cause a leak.

Perform a leak test! Use a second PSU or unplug you board/add in cards completely, lay paper towels under all your components with water blocks and monitor for leaks. Some people test for a full day, some test for a few hours, some do not test. If a component gets wet while it is off you can let it dry for a day or two and it will most likely work.

Rant time...

Select the case first, many cases are built with water cooling in mind, which really helps the build. Not saying if you have to buy a case specifically for water cooling, but these cases at times offer additional space for radiators. I do not know what you have, but full tower cases are easier than mid tower cases, and would highly recommend against a SFF case for the first build. But with proper planning and time your first build can be inside an NCASE M1, just do not rush it.

Decide what type of tubing you are going to go with. Soft/flexible tubing is the easiest to work with and consider friendly for new people. Keep the runs as short as possible and plan your bends so you do not have any kinks and you will be fine. If the tubing is too long and unsupported it may be able to pull itself out of a fitting and leak.

PETG/Acrylic are hard style tubing and generally look amazing when planned and done right and is considered good for builders who have some experience. Not saying a new person cannot jump into water cooling and use hard tubing, just take your time. While using hard tubing you will have to perform bends for any angle, if you are not comfortable with this or you have issues you can use fittings for each bend (but it also increases the cost, maybe by $200-$300). For this style you will need a heat gun and if you do not want to eye ball bend it buy a bending kit.

Order of the loop only matters from reservoir to pump (do not let the pump run dry), then it can go rad, cpu, gpu, whatever.

Dual loops are nice looking if you have the space, but increase the cost by a good amount and is generally not needed.

Radiator/Fan terminology, 120/140mm (fan size), so a 240mm/480mm is 2-4x 120mm fans and 280/560 is 2-4 140mm fans. Some radiators are made for high speed fans and some for low and fans are designed specifically to be used with radiators offering good static pressure. I have not tested it myself on how much a difference this makes.

I am sure there is more and any question can be answered, now the family is up and moving so time to start our day.
 

DoubleTap

2[H]4U
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
2,569
I've warmed up to water cooling and I'll probably go there at some point, but not when I'm on a 7700k and the 9900k is about to come out - the cost of entry is too high to use 2 year old hardware.

That said, it's very possible to make a silent (inaudible, not just quiet-ish), cool, heavily overclocked 1080Ti on air with a 3rd party heatsink and some silent fans.

It will be super fat (3.5 slots) but it's very doable.

V21-silent-GPU.jpg
 

Horiscopes

n00b
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
47
I've warmed up to water cooling and I'll probably go there at some point, but not when I'm on a 7700k and the 9900k is about to come out - the cost of entry is too high to use 2 year old hardware.

That said, it's very possible to make a silent (inaudible, not just quiet-ish), cool, heavily overclocked 1080Ti on air with a 3rd party heatsink and some silent fans.

It will be super fat (3.5 slots) but it's very doable.

View attachment 105107
LMAO that is the most fucking crazy shit i have ever seen in my life. She's beautiful.
 

Horiscopes

n00b
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
47
So there are a lot of companies out there, XSPC, Aplhacool, Aquatuning, Bitspower, Heatkiller, etc... Some of these companies have been around for a long time and offer really good products while others have had issues. Would really take the timer to research all of them and see what they have to offer, some companies product offerings are superior to others. You can find good information and builds here and over at www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/. EKWB is a good starting point with its cooling configurator, it will let you know most of the pieces you may need. Before I go on rant on what I would do let me say a few important things,

Do not mix Aluminum with Brass/Copper! Read what the contact/cooling part is made of when you are building to avoid mixing metals, you will find CPU blocks that are copper/nickel plating with acetal cover with aluminum should and this is fine. But a cooling plate of aluminum with acetal cover will be problematic if you are running any other copper parts.

Order fittings/tubing from same company! 10/12mm fittings from EKWB should be used with EKWB tubing, chances are other companies measure their tubing/fittings differently and it may/will cause a leak.

Perform a leak test! Use a second PSU or unplug you board/add in cards completely, lay paper towels under all your components with water blocks and monitor for leaks. Some people test for a full day, some test for a few hours, some do not test. If a component gets wet while it is off you can let it dry for a day or two and it will most likely work.

Rant time...

Select the case first, many cases are built with water cooling in mind, which really helps the build. Not saying if you have to buy a case specifically for water cooling, but these cases at times offer additional space for radiators. I do not know what you have, but full tower cases are easier than mid tower cases, and would highly recommend against a SFF case for the first build. But with proper planning and time your first build can be inside an NCASE M1, just do not rush it.

Decide what type of tubing you are going to go with. Soft/flexible tubing is the easiest to work with and consider friendly for new people. Keep the runs as short as possible and plan your bends so you do not have any kinks and you will be fine. If the tubing is too long and unsupported it may be able to pull itself out of a fitting and leak.

PETG/Acrylic are hard style tubing and generally look amazing when planned and done right and is considered good for builders who have some experience. Not saying a new person cannot jump into water cooling and use hard tubing, just take your time. While using hard tubing you will have to perform bends for any angle, if you are not comfortable with this or you have issues you can use fittings for each bend (but it also increases the cost, maybe by $200-$300). For this style you will need a heat gun and if you do not want to eye ball bend it buy a bending kit.

Order of the loop only matters from reservoir to pump (do not let the pump run dry), then it can go rad, cpu, gpu, whatever.

Dual loops are nice looking if you have the space, but increase the cost by a good amount and is generally not needed.

Radiator/Fan terminology, 120/140mm (fan size), so a 240mm/480mm is 2-4x 120mm fans and 280/560 is 2-4 140mm fans. Some radiators are made for high speed fans and some for low and fans are designed specifically to be used with radiators offering good static pressure. I have not tested it myself on how much a difference this makes.

I am sure there is more and any question can be answered, now the family is up and moving so time to start our day.
I love this website. Some things you just can't find reading guides or articles, you need informed people who are happy to help others who are new. I'm gonna look into watercooling once I get myself all set up :) thanks for everything man, and I hope your day is going well!
 

Horiscopes

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I'd buy a mining card from an established forum member and I wouldn't worry about it.
The 3 likes along with this comment make it seem like it's a good idea. I'll look into buying a card from one of the people on here. I figured that this would probably be the place I bought from anyways, with all the expertise and info from all you guys!
 

Horiscopes

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Messages
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Cards used strictly for gaming have a higher chance of failing than cards used for mining.
If someone is telling you otherwise they are talking nonsense. There's a lot of false information being spread about mining cards because people are hating on crypto miners for the price increase.
What do you think a good markdown is for a card that's been mined on? And I did a bunch of research after posting this, it seems your point is well based in evidence lol, fuck the haters
 

atp1916

[H]ard|DCoTM x1
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Jun 18, 2004
Messages
4,802
As a miner, you won't get any of my cards at 'firesale' prices just cause they were used in mining.

Pricing would be in-line for what the market is giving for that particular model.
 

lightsout

[H]ard|Gawd
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Messages
1,147
What do you think a good markdown is for a card that's been mined on? And I did a bunch of research after posting this, it seems your point is well based in evidence lol, fuck the haters
Basically right now the deals to be had are:
1080ti under $500
1080 under $400
1070 under $300

If its been mined you should be able to get those deals. And the market is pretty competitive. They have been slowly trickling down, but with the reviews released of the 2080 and 2080ti that may adversely affect used prices. Because now the 1080ti at $500 is looking sweet since its on par with the new 2080.

I am hoping to snag a used 1080ti if I can swing the funds, count me in as another that is happy to buy mined cards. Agreed with the folks above try to vet the seller as much as you can. Get a card from a brand that you can use the warranty on.
 

Hakaba

Gawd
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
846
I've warmed up to water cooling and I'll probably go there at some point, but not when I'm on a 7700k and the 9900k is about to come out - the cost of entry is too high to use 2 year old hardware.

That said, it's very possible to make a silent (inaudible, not just quiet-ish), cool, heavily overclocked 1080Ti on air with a 3rd party heatsink and some silent fans.

It will be super fat (3.5 slots) but it's very doable.

View attachment 105107

Is that the Morpheus II? Also are you using NF-A12 PWM fans?
 

Horiscopes

n00b
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
47
Basically right now the deals to be had are:
1080ti under $500
1080 under $400
1070 under $300

If its been mined you should be able to get those deals. And the market is pretty competitive. They have been slowly trickling down, but with the reviews released of the 2080 and 2080ti that may adversely affect used prices. Because now the 1080ti at $500 is looking sweet since its on par with the new 2080.

I am hoping to snag a used 1080ti if I can swing the funds, count me in as another that is happy to buy mined cards. Agreed with the folks above try to vet the seller as much as you can. Get a card from a brand that you can use the warranty on.
Thanks for the actual numbers. I'm probably gonna grab a 1070 and a new mobo to oc my cpu, then get a job this summer and grab a 1080ti when stuff settles out.
 

DoubleTap

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Messages
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Is that the Morpheus II? Also are you using NF-A12 PWM fans?

It's the Arctic AX3 with a pair of NF-A12 fans running at 1350rpm (fixed speed on mobo header) - I could get a GPU pwm cable, but honestly, it's so cool and quiet I have not bothered.

Thinking about doing a pair like this, but I would need a motherboard with 4 slot spacing (most are 3 slot spaced).

The loose plan right now is to get a Z390 board with 4 GPU slots like the Apex series - those tend to have the right spacing...

Alternative plan is to get a hybrid card to take up the first two slots, then put this in the second slot.

(I just moved everything to a Cougar Panzer Max tower yesterday - chosen for having 8 slots and good airflow with 3x Noctua 140mm PWM fans up front)
 

Horiscopes

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It's the Arctic AX3 with a pair of NF-A12 fans running at 1350rpm (fixed speed on mobo header) - I could get a GPU pwm cable, but honestly, it's so cool and quiet I have not bothered.

Thinking about doing a pair like this, but I would need a motherboard with 4 slot spacing (most are 3 slot spaced).

The loose plan right now is to get a Z390 board with 4 GPU slots like the Apex series - those tend to have the right spacing...

Alternative plan is to get a hybrid card to take up the first two slots, then put this in the second slot.

(I just moved everything to a Cougar Panzer Max tower yesterday - chosen for having 8 slots and good airflow with 3x Noctua 140mm PWM fans up front)
Wouldn't it just be cheaper to water cool at this point?
 

Timobkg

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
96
Basically right now the deals to be had are:
1080ti under $500
1080 under $400
1070 under $300

If its been mined you should be able to get those deals. And the market is pretty competitive. They have been slowly trickling down, but with the reviews released of the 2080 and 2080ti that may adversely affect used prices. Because now the 1080ti at $500 is looking sweet since its on par with the new 2080.

I am hoping to snag a used 1080ti if I can swing the funds, count me in as another that is happy to buy mined cards. Agreed with the folks above try to vet the seller as much as you can. Get a card from a brand that you can use the warranty on.
Thanks. Do you know what brands let you transfer the warranty?
 

DoubleTap

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Messages
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Wouldn't it just be cheaper to water cool at this point?

I've considered it, and I don't think so.

I have a very high performance, very quiet air system.

Converting another 1080Ti to the same cooling setup would cost about $120-130 - the price of a nice water block.

From what I can tell, I'm looking at a minimum of $500+ to put everything under water - probably more like $800

Edit: Cheaper vs buying a new CPU and motherboard? - no, because I want to do that regardless.
 

Hakaba

Gawd
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Jul 22, 2013
Messages
846
Wouldn't it just be cheaper to water cool at this point?

Honestly... In the long run probably not. Not saying you cant shop around and find good deals. But he doesn’t have to worry about loop maintenance and/or leaks.

A basic loop will prob run you between $300-500 if you go soft tubing or bend everything yourself. If you struggle, don’t have the patience and just go with fittings it will almost add another $100-200 to the cost.

The Noctua fans assuming 4x 120mm AF12s is about $120, not sure if that is a Noctua DH15, but $80 ish with fans and the accelero III I think is around $60. That is going to be less than most closed loop kits out there.
 

Horiscopes

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Honestly... In the long run probably not. Not saying you cant shop around and find good deals. But he doesn’t have to worry about loop maintenance and/or leaks.

A basic loop will prob run you between $300-500 if you go soft tubing or bend everything yourself. If you struggle, don’t have the patience and just go with fittings it will almost add another $100-200 to the cost.

The Noctua fans assuming 4x 120mm AF12s is about $120, not sure if that is a Noctua DH15, but $80 ish with fans and the accelero III I think is around $60. That is going to be less than most closed loop kits out there.
How much maintenance does a normal (1 gpu oced, 1 cpu oced, 4 sticks of ram) watercooling build take?
 
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How much maintenance does a normal (1 gpu oced, 1 cpu oced, 4 sticks of ram) watercooling build take?
Water-cooling RAM is a bling thing; it's not necessary with modern memory and doesn't gain you much in terms of performance.

As far as maintenance, it depends on how fastidious you are. If you use a good safe coolant (meaning something CLEAR with no dyes or particulates and having anticorrosion and antimicrobial additives) and prep your loop properly before putting it into service, you can safely go on a yearly flush and refill schedule, maybe longer. Assuming you build your loop with a lowest-point drain line and easy to access fill port, this is a very simple thing to do and should take all of an hour, tops.

If you use show-build coolants like Mayhems Pastel or Primochill Vue, count on six months between flushes and refills and leave time for a full loop teardown and hand cleaning of each component if necessary. The particulates in those coolants often fall out, and get lodged in low points and waterblock microchannels.
 

Archaea

[H]F Junkie
Joined
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Messages
10,478
I mined with nearly 60 cards and typically between 66% power target and 75% power target. I paid for electricity — and after testing this was easily the most efficient hashrate for the cards compared to electric cost - it also kept heat down, and fan speed down. You could mine nearly stock hash rates at 30% less electric cost. This is confirmed by test after test and many miner guides

I know about a dozen miners personally and all of us undervolted except one guy. He lived in an apt. and didn’t pay for his electricity so he put his to 120% power target. None of his cards have failed, and he’s still mining with them now, but be mindful of that gap. Not all miners used undervolting, because not all miners were on the hook to save money on electricity — therefore weren’t striving for efficiency.

Also, temperatures even on a undervolted card with box fans blowing over them and good spacing hanging from a rack will still be in the mid 50s to mid 60s range for 1070s, 1080tis, RX580s and Vegas will run hotter still.

It’s not really a problem in my opinion, (since most of tbeee cards actually only throttle at mid 80s range). But I tried to make sure all my cards were cooler than 75*. (Which was a trick with Vega). 1060s under volted run in the mid 40s, 1070s under volted run in the mid 50s, 1080tis under volted run in the mid 60s, rx580s a bit higher, and Vegas were a challenge to keep much cooler than mid 70s.

I also tried to control fan speed a bit to keep it slower and balanced, since fans would be the first thing to fail. My temps may have run a bit hotter than someone who left the fam speeds on auto (at higher RPM). But that’s my experiences and here is a picture of my setup at one point. I had a big fan blowing over all of this and it was about 3 foot away from my HVAC which pulled the heat out of the room and cycled it through the house. Great in the winter. Terrible in the summer.


upload_2018-9-20_8-10-48.jpeg


Power use is substantial - and unwelcome. So miners with multiple cards typically strive to keep it down.
https://hardforum.com/threads/how-has-mining-affected-your-electric-bill.1951979/

I’d have no hesitation to buy a mining card that was undervolted from a well known member here and have done so myself. I only ever had one mining card fail. It was a powercolor Vega 56 that was artifacting in regular use and crashing my mining rig. It was likely bad from the beginning IMO. I’m not much of a fan of the Vega cards.
 
Last edited:

Timobkg

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
96
Well, based on all your advice, I just ordered my first ever used GPU from an [H] member. Fingers crossed. :)
 
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