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Mechanical Keyboards

I just got my first mechanical keyboard today, a razer blackwidow from a fellow hardforumer, It's pretty fun to type on. I just hope it doesn't annoy the crap out of my roommate hahah

I was worried about this same thing so I ordered the ultimate stealth version. Quiet and great to use!
 
I just got my first mechanical keyboard today, a razer blackwidow from a fellow hardforumer, It's pretty fun to type on. I just hope it doesn't annoy the crap out of my roommate hahah


oh it will. But you can always put some dampers on it.
 
I went to Fry's a couple weeks ago with the intention of getting a mechanical keyboard. Using a Model M and not having a Windows Key in Win8 was driving me nuts. I have to say, I hated how every single keyboard I tried felt. There's something to be said for buckling springs instead of switches. I ended up ordering a Unicomp keyboard, and am beyond pleased with it. It cost me $80 instead of the $100-$150 for one of those "gaming" mechanical keyboards.
 
I am really liking my Quickfire TK w/ Reds, though if I did it again, I might get a Quickfire Rapid.
 
I went to Fry's a couple weeks ago with the intention of getting a mechanical keyboard. Using a Model M and not having a Windows Key in Win8 was driving me nuts. I have to say, I hated how every single keyboard I tried felt. There's something to be said for buckling springs instead of switches. I ended up ordering a Unicomp keyboard, and am beyond pleased with it. It cost me $80 instead of the $100-$150 for one of those "gaming" mechanical keyboards.

Yeah, and they will outlast the Razer models. Between the keyboards of theirs I owned, and ridiculousness I read about with their mouses and software being locked together, no more Razer for me.

The Unicomp flexible plastic cover even isn't bad to type with.
 
I went to Fry's a couple weeks ago with the intention of getting a mechanical keyboard. Using a Model M and not having a Windows Key in Win8 was driving me nuts. I have to say, I hated how every single keyboard I tried felt. There's something to be said for buckling springs instead of switches. I ended up ordering a Unicomp keyboard, and am beyond pleased with it. It cost me $80 instead of the $100-$150 for one of those "gaming" mechanical keyboards.

Wanted to ask: how's the build quality on your Unicomp? Any deformed keys or odd clicking, etc.?

I have one from many years ago and its pretty decent; not up to Model M (or Lexmark Model M) standards, but OK. However, have heard their overall quality has gone downhill in recent years. So curious to know what yours is like.
 
Wanted to ask: how's the build quality on your Unicomp? Any deformed keys or odd clicking, etc.?

I have one from many years ago and its pretty decent; not up to Model M (or Lexmark Model M) standards, but OK. However, have heard their overall quality has gone downhill in recent years. So curious to know what yours is like.

The Unicomp I got recently other than having a flaky clear switch for the spacebar (unicomp overnighted me a replacement without any ado whatsoever), the build quality is stellar even for being the SpaceSaver model. You can indeed get the classic if desk space is no concern, but the keys are laser etched, everything is uniform, and the "keyboard condom" they sell is actually decent to type with. Customer service surprised me, no run runaround, no "we need a card to secure the cross ship", none of it. Every switch is uniform in response, and have had zero problems with it. It still weighs in pretty heavy in comparison to my Das Pro S Mac, or my old pile of dead Razers. (TAKE THAT how you will, folks). My only regret is no backlight option, but if it's going to save me from going through 3 a year with dismal Razer customer support, whereas unicomp answers emails within minutes, and even answers the phone, than so-be-it. Keycap color is "pebble and stone" (beige and grey) rather than black (body of the KB is black), but no worries there as that's the trade off for Laser-Etching (burning black letters into black keys doesn't quite work). I wish they would offer a black keycap set with no lettering A la DAS, but still.. I feel that I can hammer the Unicomp, whereas the DAS I can say bottoms out easier due to the blues, and I could probably hit a key hard enough to concievably break loose a solder joint.
 
So having the contacts you do, what would you tell me if I wanted to get my hands on the final CNC version and asked how much to get it done? (I assume a few hundred, but not out of the question)? Who is doing the CNC? Are you getting those done custom, and if so a 2nd order might drive the cost/ea down....

Sorry for the late reply. I paid ~$130 for the board itself (Not from WFD) and chose the following customizations: Brand new Poker, stainless steel plate, clear switches, 62g gold Korean springs, Pink switch stickers, & Magenta LED.
I later traded an item to WhiteFireDragon in exchange for a bunch of mods (WASD Cluster LED. dremeled switch tops with leds, so that I can remove them to change stems/springs without any desoldering, and a whole lot of other stuff).
Needless to say I'm very happy with it and can't wait to put it in a Pure CNC aluminum case along with the Hangul caps I mentioned in my last post.

Photo of the dremel mod in case you're curious
switchtops.jpg


Thick Blue Cherry Legend (Black) & Hangul Legends (Red) PBT
f24888d23920244d6dbc456.jpg
 
Nice, yeah I just got a filco with blacks and a CM QuickFire Rapid with blues. I want to try the browns because while I like the black for gaming, I'm not a fan for programming work. the blues are AWESOME, but probably too loud for my roommates.

mx cherry browns to me are like touching on a cloud of boobs. J/k they are definitely my favorite go to switch. My first keyboards were browns and they are definitely really good switches. They are little bit lighter than mx blues and the tactile bump is hardly noticeable unless you type and you don't bottom out as much as I do. I still bottom out on my on my keys though i touch type.
 
So having the contacts you do, what would you tell me if I wanted to get my hands on the final CNC version and asked how much to get it done? (I assume a few hundred, but not out of the question)? Who is doing the CNC? Are you getting those done custom, and if so a 2nd order might drive the cost/ea down....

The CNC Aluminum case I had, was from a KBT Pure. They're made by Vortex and someone over at Geekhack sold about 30 of them, but they're all gone now.

I have no idea how much it would cost to get one or two cases dont. If you're looking for an aluminum case for a 60% board, I'd either wait for Imsto (GH member) to do a third round of them or wait for Treble318 (Another GH member) to be up and running again. Both of these should be happening soon.
If you want something for a Tenkeyless 87 , you'll probably have to go with a Vortex Aluminum case from MechanicalKeyboards.com

Imsto Aluminum Anodized cases (Poker/Pure/Race) round 3 should happen soon - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35213.0
index.php


Treble318's Aluminum Powder Coated cases (Poker/Pure) (Should be taking orders soon) - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=29827.0

IMG_9309.jpg
 
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