Mechanical Keyboard Guide

So, if Reds offer the least resistance from the Cherry line of switches, what about Topres? How do they compare?
depends on the version.

topre comes in 3 combos afaik. 55g, 45g, and mixed, which has a mix of switches (including 35g depending on which finger is supposed to be touching the key.
Topres have those 35g switches for your pinkies, but im not sure if they have a board comprised entirely of that switch type. If topre has a 35g keyboard, iw ould love to caress it with my fingertips. That would be glorious.

MX red's depress at 40g.

When I read these sort of statements I wonder what I am doing different from other people or what they are doing wrong because I experience none of those symptoms on my MX Blacks. For me, the strong force at the bottom but relatively light at the top makes it so that bottoming out is softened or even prevented altogether.
Also, even after hours of typing, my fingers feel much less tired than on a standard membrane board.

I just find reds easier for long term usage is all. And yes, i'll definitely agree that blacks are less tiring than a membrane board for regular typing. However, i will say that in gaming (i play fps), i do find my fingers get tired on a black board faster than a membrane board because membranes have that collapse feeling where they're easy to hold down at the bottom, and blacks just get more difficult to hold down at the bottom because their spring tension increases. So basically, if you're going to be holding down blacks for any period of time it makes them much more tiring.

It all comes down to what I'm using my board for.
 
recent mechanical convert here, bought a black widow ultimate for my gaming rig and this forced me to buy a black widow regular for my work computer for 2 reasons #1 can't stand mushy keyboards now and #2 the slightly different layout on the black widows screws up my left hand placement and drove me crazy when i would go back and forth between it and a dell keyboard i had i work :D now i can just get used to the black widow and forget about other keyboards hehe
 
Got my Leopold FC200RR/ABN Reds. I like it a bit more than my Filco browns. Gotta get used to no more numpad though.
 
Well, I just got my cherry G80 3000 with mx blues from provantage. Its actually my second one since I sold the first one with the intention to pick up a board with plate mounted switches and it just wasn't the same. It just made me remember why I didn't like the black widow. I don't know what it is but to me pcb mounted blues feel so much different. I really like it. I also love cherry's lasered key caps. They are a much higher quality than your standard abs keycap. I also prefer the slightly rougher texture to the satin texture on the filco and wasd which I tend to shine up pretty quickly. My one gripe was the mx green on the spacebar so I popped it out and swapped it with the blue in the caps lock key. Anyways I'm very happy with my purchase and this board is a keeper.

keyboards004.jpg
 
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Bought a Rosewill mx cherry brown keyboard. A little noisy, not the switch but the bottoming out of the keys. Might buy some o-rings to dampen the sound. If you type carefully it is near silent.

Like it a lot. Had a Logitech wireless before.
 
For those of you that have a 6Gv2, do you use a wrist rest, and if yes what kind? I really love the 7G wrist rest, and I would pay the extra money just for the wrist rest, but that short backspace key really bothers me. So I'm looking at other options.

If, by the way you have a 7G wrist rest you don't need for whatever reason, let me know I'll buy it from you and pay for the shipping ;)
 
ABS M1 is OOP now
Cherry boards can be purchased at provantage
DAS is still not IBM quality. Sorry, but it isn't.
Deck is not the only backlit keyboard brand around; there's ducky, razer, etc
Happy hacking keyboard is HHKB, not HHK.
Rosewill boards are all different prices, not $99
Unicomp makes more than one board, and they're also not just model M type, but literally model M.

Boards not mentioned:
Ducky with alps (green = tactile, black = linear)
Razer black widow with browns (stealth, iirc)
Kinesis Advantage (ergo)
Maltron (ergo)
Filco Zero with alps
tons of old boards (like northgate)
 
ABS M1 is OOP now
Cherry boards can be purchased at provantage
DAS is still not IBM quality. Sorry, but it isn't.
Deck is not the only backlit keyboard brand around; there's ducky, razer, etc
Happy hacking keyboard is HHKB, not HHK.
Rosewill boards are all different prices, not $99
Unicomp makes more than one board, and they're also not just model M type, but literally model M.

Boards not mentioned:
Ducky with alps (green = tactile, black = linear)
Razer black widow with browns (stealth, iirc)
Kinesis Advantage (ergo)
Maltron (ergo)
Filco Zero with alps
tons of old boards (like northgate)

Thanks, I'll make those changes soon.
 
The company I work for has not done an e-waste round in years. I have already found 3 mechanical keyboards. I am sure there are quite a few more. When I start to get the e-waste going I will set them aside. I will create a post here or in the keyboard/mice subforum. I will sell them for shipping costs.....cleaning and whatever else is up to you.


thanks,,
 
Argggh. Been reading this thread for 50 pages, and reading reviews all over the net, but I just can't decide between the blues and the browns for typing/gaming. I had an original IBM Model M back in the day (1987 Epson 8088) and I still dream about typing on that keyboard. I'm looking for something that has that same kind of feel, but without all the noise - so I guess that would be the Blue (ideally PCB mounted)? Does that sound right? I want the tactile feel without the noise, but I also want it to be comfortable for both typing (about to go back to school) and gaming for an hour or two at a stretch.
 
Argggh. Been reading this thread for 50 pages, and reading reviews all over the net, but I just can't decide between the blues and the browns for typing/gaming. I had an original IBM Model M back in the day (1987 Epson 8088) and I still dream about typing on that keyboard. I'm looking for something that has that same kind of feel, but without all the noise - so I guess that would be the Blue (ideally PCB mounted)? Does that sound right? I want the tactile feel without the noise, but I also want it to be comfortable for both typing (about to go back to school) and gaming for an hour or two at a stretch.

You would want plate mounted switches, this prevents flexing and uneven key pressure when typing. Filco, Das, Leopold and WASD offer great boards in blue and brown switches.
I have a WASD Keyboard with brown switches and I think they offer the best balance between typing, gaming and noise. The browns have a lighter tactile feel than blues.
The blues will definitely be the nosier of the two, but has better tactile feedback. Unicomp offers the original IBM Buckling Spring switches which are noisy and firm, but gives you the classic feel.

To cut down on the noise further, you can use O-rings to dampen the keys when bottoming out.

Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFkl1Vet1eU&feature=player_embedded

You can find the links to Filco, Das, Leopold and WASD in the first post.
 
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Can you recommend me a keyboard that's build like a tank, that could stand abuse (fists of rage and such :D)? It's a gift for a friend who broke too many cheap keyboards. :) He uses it for programming and fighting games. I was thinking for blues with no keypad, but it's not a definite requirement...
 
Can you recommend me a keyboard that's build like a tank, that could stand abuse (fists of rage and such :D)? It's a gift for a friend who broke too many cheap keyboards. :) He uses it for programming and fighting games. I was thinking for blues with no keypad, but it's not a definite requirement...

The sturdiest modern keyboard I've seen to date is the Deck 84. The Deck Legend series is almost as sturdy, but the 84 key variants sport a metal back plate while the other does not.
 
Can you recommend me a keyboard that's build like a tank, that could stand abuse (fists of rage and such :D)? It's a gift for a friend who broke too many cheap keyboards. :) He uses it for programming and fighting games. I was thinking for blues with no keypad, but it's not a definite requirement...

The sturdiest modern keyboard I've seen to date is the Deck 84. The Deck Legend series is almost as sturdy, but the 84 key variants sport a metal back plate while the other does not.

Same here. I would go with a Deck Legend with Tactile switches or a WASD Keyboard with blues switches.
They are built pretty similar internally. Both boards have weight to them and are built like tanks.
He can also choose a Das with blue switches or a Filco with blues without the number pad.
 
To cut down on the noise further, you can use O-rings to dampen the keys when bottoming out. .

Do the O-rings help with noise on the blues, or are they mostly helpful for dampening the bottoming out of the browns? I assumed the noisiness from the blues was the switch noise, not bottoming out noise.
 
Do the O-rings help with noise on the blues, or are they mostly helpful for dampening the bottoming out of the browns? I assumed the noisiness from the blues was the switch noise, not bottoming out noise.
They help bottoming out on any switch. As you see in the video, the blues noise level was greatly reduced when using the o-rings. Unless you are a touch typist, the o-rings are necessary if you want to cut down on the noise. The blues "click" when pressed then bottoms out "clack", two sounds. Adding the o-rings only gives you the click without the clack. I use the browns without the o-rings because the tactile bump is silent and I like the clack sound, but it's a dull clack on my WASD keyboard. Remember, adding any kind of rubber to your mech board may alter the feel of the switches when bottoming out.
 
They help bottoming out on any switch. As you see in the video, the blues noise level was greatly reduced when using the o-rings. Unless you are a touch typist, the o-rings are necessary if you want to cut down on the noise. The blues "click" when pressed then bottoms out "clack", two sounds. Adding the o-rings only gives you the click without the clack. I use the browns without the o-rings because the tactile bump is silent and I like the clack sound, but it's a dull clack on my WASD keyboard. Remember, adding any kind of rubber to your mech board may alter the feel of the switches when bottoming out.

Thanks, somehow I missed the video in the first response. Still undecided, but that really helped with the noise comparison.
 
Anyone played with the Xarmour (ione?) U9W wireless keyboard? It has cherry brown keys. I'm interested in the wireless signal strength (from 4-5 feet, not more) and the quality of the cherry switches (not the keycaps, as i plan to replace them)? Are the same switches as on any other cherry mech keyboards? Anyone knows if they're pcb mounted? I plan to do a little bit of modding on this board, if the wireless part doesn't give any trouble first.
 
I have to ask, is about $160 for a Ducky Shine (MX Brown with Blue LED backlit) worth it? I found one I can buy in the states and with all the nice function keys built in, it seriously got me interested.
 
I recently bought a ducky shine (MX browns, green lighting) for home and a $99 MX red rosewill for work. The rosewill is solid but the spacebar is bad in comparison to the one on the ducky. Seems 'clicky' and harder to push than the other keys on the board (even though it's a red switch). The spacebar is balanced on the ducky and feels the same as pressing a regular sized key (which is something I've never experienced on a keyboard before).

Apart from that, you be the judge if you think it's worth the backlighting, media keys, repeat rate function and the dip switch functionality (can swap the function of caps / ctrl, disable windows key, swap alt and windows key)

I haven't tried any mechanicals apart from those two so I can't compare to say a DAS, although if you want backlighting I think your only other options are a Deck (which that font is horrid) and the steelseries (which doesn't use all mechanical keys)
 
Honestly, the backlighting and media keys do mean a lot to me, considering I do use them a lot on my keyboard that still only says "Corded Keyboard" on the back of this Logitech lol.

Also, as a side question, has anyone used the Corsair K90 yet?
 
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the ducky shine looks pretty sexy, I'd prolly snag it if I didn't have my Deck Frost already.
 
Just ordered a WASD with MX Blues. I have a filco with browns and I like it but I wanted to try a new switch. I was going to go black but I wanted the tactile response so Blue it is. Time to keep my roommates awake with the sound of my gaming :D
 
Honestly, the backlighting and media keys do mean a lot to me, considering I do use them a lot on my keyboard that still only says "Corded Keyboard" on the back of this Logitech lol.

Also, as a side question, has anyone used the Corsair K90 yet?

I checked out one of the Corsair keyboards at the HardOCP event. I believe it was a K60 and not the K90. The membrane based function keys really bother me. It's just that inconsistent key press between all the keys disturbs me. Either go membrane or go mechanical. The hybrid approach makes no sense to me. I also wasn't a huge fan of the Cherry MX red switches. Not bad for gaming, but I think I like the blacks better. I'm sure I could get used to them if I had to. I think my dislike of the red switches comes from years of Blue / Black use. The case was solid and felt good. I didn't mess with any of the extra keys because I don't use them. Even as a result of having those on there, the K60 isn't for me.

I think the quality is there on the Corsair keyboards, but the design leaves something to be desired as far as I'm concerned.
 
Honestly, the backlighting and media keys do mean a lot to me, considering I do use them a lot on my keyboard that still only says "Corded Keyboard" on the back of this Logitech lol.

Also, as a side question, has anyone used the Corsair K90 yet?

I've had the K90 for a little over a week now and I really do like it, and this is coming from someone who's owned 4 Filcos. What sets it apart are the following:

1. Ease of maintenance/cleaning
2. Media keys
3. Backlighting
4. MX-Reds
5. Build quality/aluminum cover
6. Wristrest
7. Macro functionality
7. Disable Windows Key

Membranes don't bother me, given the boards feature set and MSRP there are always going to be trade-offs, given the fact that I picked mine up for $94 definitely sweetens the deal.
 
I've had the K90 for a little over a week now and I really do like it, and this is coming from someone who's owned 4 Filcos. What sets it apart are the following:

1. Ease of maintenance/cleaning
2. Media keys
3. Backlighting
4. MX-Reds
5. Build quality/aluminum cover
6. Wristrest
7. Macro functionality
7. Disable Windows Key

Membranes don't bother me, given the boards feature set and MSRP there are always going to be trade-offs, given the fact that I picked mine up for $94 definitely sweetens the deal.

1. Ease of maintenance/cleaning <---How is this any easier on the K60/K90 vs. anything else?
2. Media keys <---Do not need / do not want.
3. Backlighting <---Not required, but nice to have. Other options have this as well.
4. MX-Reds <---Do not want / need.
5. Build quality/aluminum cover <---This is the best part about the K60/K90. Then they got all cheap on us with membrane based function keys. So it's still not perfect.
6. Wristrest <---Do not need / do not want.
7. Macro functionality <---Do not need / do not want.
7. Disable Windows Key <---Do not need, but nice if available. Though I trained myself not to hit this key, and after years of practice, I've never needed this function. In fact my G15's had it and I never used it.

I'd take a Filco and it's plastic housing over the K60/K90 any day of the week. I guess the Corsair units just aren't for me.
 
1. Ease of maintenance/cleaning <---How is this any easier on the K60/K90 vs. anything else?

I think that its since the outside of the case is flush with the backplate. So you could just spray some compressed air under the keys and it would clean it right out. Not a big deal to me but seems like a nice feature.

My WASD keyboard with mx browns isn't going anywhere. I found a keeper.
 
I think that its since the outside of the case is flush with the backplate. So you could just spray some compressed air under the keys and it would clean it right out. Not a big deal to me but seems like a nice feature.

My WASD keyboard with mx browns isn't going anywhere. I found a keeper.

I've been wondering how people are liking their WASD's. I've been wanting to try one myself for awhile. But when it comes to keyboards and mice, I try to gamble as little as possible. I've been disappointed more often than not.
 
I've been wondering how people are liking their WASD's. I've been wanting to try one myself for awhile. But when it comes to keyboards and mice, I try to gamble as little as possible. I've been disappointed more often than not.

I like mine (tried both the MX Blue and Brown), but I haven't had a mechanical keyboard since my original Model M gave out 10 years ago, so I'm probably not much of a recommendation. Build quality seems solid though. The LED lights for Caps Lock, etc are too bright though.
 
I've been wondering how people are liking their WASD's. I've been wanting to try one myself for awhile. But when it comes to keyboards and mice, I try to gamble as little as possible. I've been disappointed more often than not.

I sold my filco tenkeyless with mx browns just to keep my WASD. I prefer a full sized board and this one is every bit as good. Hell, its made by the same people so it should be. It has the same costar stabilizers that I know and love. It even has the same keycaps as the filco but laser etched. I love this keyboard every bit as much as my old filco. I've had this keyboard for a good few months now so I'm not in that honeymoon phase anymore either.
 
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