Sorry for late reply, didn't had time at the moment and forgot about this afterwards.Hi SaperPl,
can you please let me know what screw thread the backplate of your Biostar AM4 boatd needs? M3 or M4? Furthermore I like to know the height from MB to installed CPU topside.
As I know there are some standoffs on the backplate that come through the mounting holes. What is the diameter and how far stick they out?
Vertically yes, total height will be 42 mm so that's okay. Horizontally though you'll have to fit this between the RAM and IO - on gigabyte boards this should be doable as the ram slots are on the edge of the board. On biostar you'd have something like 115 mm of space between io and ram while you need 120 mm. On asrock it might fit above and between the IO as it is quite uniqueSaperPL, would Noctua's NF-A12x15 fit in Sentry with T318?
Thank You, good thing I just bought the Gigabyte board because... well, it was aviable. I guess constantly refreshing store pages paid off.Vertically yes, total height will be 42 mm so that's okay. Horizontally though you'll have to fit this between the RAM and IO - on gigabyte boards this should be doable as the ram slots are on the edge of the board. On biostar you'd have something like 115 mm of space between io and ram while you need 120 mm. On asrock it might fit above and between the IO as it is quite unique
I'm currently testing it and getting used to it, sort-of. Ryzen is pretty weird in terms of temps and also I'd like to test it with memory running at their full potential since running on JEDEC 2133 settings might mean the CPU itself not running at full *thermal* capacity.Hey SaperPL, did you have a chance to test the T318 some more?
I remember in the Sentry topic you were toying with the idea of making AM4 brackets for the T318, is this something you are at all interested in doing anymore?
Thanks for the updates so far, great stuff!
People were asking when will I be able to test out the T318, I think I should be ready now.SaperPL, I was able to manually overclock my G.Skill TridentZ 3200CL16 2x16Gb to 2933 CL15, just fyi. Although, what this is doing in this thread?!
I got a reply from G.Skill earlier:I don't think TridentZ are certified for Ryzen. I haven't seen any mentions of Ryzen on my kit.
It's FlareX that are certified
I believe FlareX are the ones that are "designed for" Ryzen, but TridentZ were the ones that were working properly earlier than the FlareX were made. Anyway RipJaws aren't best choice for Ryzen.G.Skill said:If you wish to use 3200MHz, the max supported capacity that we have tested on Ryzen platform is 16GB(8GBx2). Please see model numbers that are compatible with your system below:
1. [Trident Z] F4-3200C14D-16GTZ
2. [Flare X] F4-3200C14D-16GFX
Other memory series or models (F4-3200C16D-16GVKB) that are not listed above may not provide the same level of compatibility.
I would also report that I haveI got a reply from G.Skill earlier:
I believe FlareX are the ones that are "designed for" Ryzen, but TridentZ were the ones that were working properly earlier than the FlareX were made. Anyway RipJaws aren't best choice for Ryzen.
I think that L9i with AM4 is what you should look at if you want out-of-the-box equipment. It was covered here:So what CPU cooler I should buy for my Ryzen rig? SaperPL?
I could not resist in trying this:I think you can use and the mounting screws, but custom plate need bending both side like Noctua plates and make holes and thread.
This custom plate can be compatible with Cooltek/Thermolab LP53, but mounting holes to heatsink are not the same:
Original 90° Noctua version required drilling to heatsink what is not good at all.
I also used the NF-a9x14 with my LP53. Out of curiosity, how did you mount the fan to the cooler? Were you able to mount the LP53 with the fins parallel to the ram? Or could it only be mounted perpendicular? Currently my LP53 is on a delidded 4790k with the fins running parallel to the ram for better air flow. I'm really tempted to switch to Ryzen if/when there's a refresh or ryzen 2 with slightly faster clocks and a more mature platform. Now that I know it's feasible to use the venerable LP53 with am4, that's one less barrier to entry for me.I could not resist in trying this:
The one extra hole was a test drill and also I had not cut threads manually for a long time...
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I am using a Ryzen 1600X and this helped to avoid throttling in prime. It is stable with stock 3.6 GHz & -50mV offset. Effective clock is between 3600 and 3650.
I also exchanged the LP53 orginal fan with the Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM from NH-L9a.
I am tempted to get a Dynatron T318 and also cut holes in it to fit the AM4 backplate.
Sweet, if you could grab some temps from prime95 v26.6 on both LP53 and NH-L9a to compare and any other test you may want to do (what program are you using for temps?). I have neither, but would love to see how well the LP53 does on Ryzen. I will be doing a comparison with my C7 and T318 with a few different fans once my NF-A12x15 PMW comes in, hopefully before this weekend.
Thanks, I look forward to your results. I've been using 26.6 as it was for my old sandy bridge CPU, but I now realize I have a new CPU so I'll be using 29.1 as well thanks for the double check!why prime v26.6? something special there?
I have v29.1.
may take a while to collect this data.. I am not promising but I will try to do it over the next week.
I would record temps, etc with HWinfo.
Has any of this info changed or improved? Did you find a way to mount the fan to the heatsink?I've had to remove the board from my rig since I've sent the memory for RMA, thus occasion happened to tinker a bit with the T318.
Looks like we don't really need a custom adapter to mount it since the holes in both motherboard pcb and base of the radiator are big enough to put the screws angled.
I figured out I can use such setup:
View attachment 26260
M4x25 screw + two nuts (one to shorten the screw a bit) and two washers (one should be either non-conductive or have to be isolated from bottom of the board - I used pieces of adhesive paper for it)
I also had to remove the original screws from the T318
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Screws are tightened by hand, strongly angled because the power section forced the base of the cooler to be slightly off the center of CPU.
I'll have to figure out some nice and easy way of mounting the fan on top of radiator.
No tests yet until I get back my DDR4 sticks from RMA :|
Few posts below the one you have quoted me on I have attached photos of the fan ziptied to the T318.Has any of this info changed or improved? Did you find a way to mount the fan to the heatsink?
Hey I know this is old but what size drill bits and tap did you use. Assuming you used a tap to cut threads. Lmk. Thanks alot.