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Loop sequence and rad orientation advice

skipper01

n00b
Joined
May 27, 2016
Messages
1
Hello Everybody



I'm back into watercooling after a few years of absence and i need some advice on how to set up my loop sequence and the orientation of one of the rads, i want to cool a core i7 950 130 TDP (not overclocked for now), i know i have some old components but it's what i can manage for now:



1 XSPC RS120 Radiator with 1 original 120 fan from XSPC kit.

1 120 Radiator from a busted corsair H60 with 1 SP120 Fan (corsair)

1 XSPC Delta V3 CPU Waterblock (acetal),

1 New XSPC ION Pump/Res.

6 original G1/4 compression fittings 8mm ID, 10mm OD

Tubbing.



The only available locations for the rads are, one in the the back of my case below my power supply and one in the front but this one has to be secured sideways (barbs on the side instead of top or bottom), I have an old not mounting friendly Ultra E-Torque case with not much space. Besides my ambient temps are way too high, 30° C and up.



I have 2 ideas and i would like to know your opinions on them, if they are ok, which is the best or is there other sequence best suited for my loop, is it ok for me to mount the front rad sideways?



Rad 1 will always be the one on the back of the case due to the orientation of the pump outlet and the placement i have for it.



Idea 1



Pump --> CPU Block --> Rad 1 (back) --> Rad 2 (front)--> Pump



Idea 2



Pump --> Rad 1 (back) --> CPU Block --> Rad 2 (front) --> Pump





Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.



Best Regards



Skipper
 
According to EK, there is an ideal order. Ideally, you want the coolest liquid possible hitting your component. So, therefore, that means Pump, rad, rad, block, pump. However, with just a single item in the loop, any order is going to be ok. Personally, i have Pump/res combo - rad- full mobo block- pump/res. I'm adding gpu block (ordering tonight) and then ill have it segmented differently.
 
Make sure the rads are the same material. I'm pretty sure Corsair rads are all aluminum, and I'm willing to guess the XSPC rad isn't. Dissimilar metals will promote corrosion in your loop.
 
I'm running a 5930k oc'd to 4.6 and a 980ti running at 1550 on a 360 and 240 rad with d5 pump. I tried different orientations on the loop, rads before, after, between blocks, etc and it made no difference. I have read previous articles and statements from others stating that would be the case but I had a weekend to kill so I wanted to see for myself.

I would mount the rads and route the tubing in the way that makes it the easiest to get it done.
 
I'm running a 5930k oc'd to 4.6 and a 980ti running at 1550 on a 360 and 240 rad with d5 pump. I tried different orientations on the loop, rads before, after, between blocks, etc and it made no difference. I have read previous articles and statements from others stating that would be the case but I had a weekend to kill so I wanted to see for myself.

I would mount the rads and route the tubing in the way that makes it the easiest to get it done.

What were your before/after temps on the 980Ti? I'm waiting for my block to come in, and excitement is killer.
 
Don't use that H60 radiator. Fairly sure it's aluminum construction, and it won't play nice with your other components.

Loop order does not matter with a sufficiently high flow rate. If the specs on the XSPC pump are halfway true, then it should be enough for your system.
 
What were your before/after temps on the 980Ti? I'm waiting for my block to come in, and excitement is killer.

Before on the air cooler i was hitting 80+C with fan at stock, set fan to 100% to game with and kept it right at 70C. Under water now on the EKWB block, oc'd now, after gaming for about 60-90 minutes it's at 48C. And quiet...

Idle is 25-28c depending on temp in room (my room is usually 22-23 ambient)
 
Before on the air cooler i was hitting 80+C with fan at stock, set fan to 100% to game with and kept it right at 70C. Under water now on the EKWB block, oc'd now, after gaming for about 60-90 minutes it's at 48C. And quiet...

Idle is 25-28c depending on temp in room (my room is usually 22-23 ambient)


Awesome! I had been curious if I'd see much difference. The cooler on in the AMP! Omega/Extreme's are gigantic. Although, I do see 65+ when gaming.
 
Don't use that H60 radiator. Fairly sure it's aluminum construction, and it won't play nice with your other components.

Loop order does not matter with a sufficiently high flow rate. If the specs on the XSPC pump are halfway true, then it should be enough for your system.
yeah the h60(i think all the "H" series) is all aluminum but they have a copper block on the pump. they use a coolant mix to prevent corrosion. the xspc rad only says copper fins not full copper so the core could be aluminum. I cannot find any other info about it. so wouldn't a splash of anticorrosive or anti-freeze solve this?
 
yeah the h60(i think all the "H" series) is all aluminum but they have a copper block on the pump. they use a coolant mix to prevent corrosion. the xspc rad only says copper fins not full copper so the core could be aluminum. I cannot find any other info about it. so wouldn't a splash of anticorrosive or anti-freeze solve this?

Still doesn't eliminate galvsnicr corrosion and cavitation
 
yeah the h60(i think all the "H" series) is all aluminum but they have a copper block on the pump. they use a coolant mix to prevent corrosion. the xspc rad only says copper fins not full copper so the core could be aluminum. I cannot find any other info about it. so wouldn't a splash of anticorrosive or anti-freeze solve this?

Modern radiators for custom watercooling systems have either copper or brass tubing. None have aluminum unless it's a radiator from the early 2000s. I believe Koolance was the last of the major players to get rid of their aluminum radiator lineup.
 
Still doesn't eliminate galvsnicr corrosion and cavitation
cavitation is not the word you are looking for

Anti-freeze will help with corrosion. its been doing it for how many years in your cars cooling system?

reality is, we take this stuff way to seriously for its application.
 
cavitation is not the word you are looking for

Anti-freeze will help with corrosion. its been doing it for how many years in your cars cooling system?

reality is, we take this stuff way to seriously for its application.


Indeed it is. I've seen it quite often. When nitrites get high in coolant, it starts to cause pitting. In the diesel world, we call it cavitation. It's real popular inside the front cover.
 
that's what I thought too. use some antifreeze and its good to go.

"Cavitation is the formation of vapour cavities in a liquid – i.e. small liquid-free zones ("bubbles" or "voids") – that are the consequence of forces acting upon the liquid. It usually occurs when a liquid is subjected to rapid changes of pressure that cause the formation of cavities where the pressure is relatively low. When subjected to higher pressure, the voids implode and can generate an intense shock wave."

edit: pitting is what you are describing

"Pitting corrosion, or pitting, is a form of extremely localized corrosion that leads to the creation of small holes in the metal. The driving power for pitting corrosion is the depassivation of a small area, which becomes anodic while an unknown but potentially vast area becomes cathodic, leading to very localized galvanic corrosion. The corrosion penetrates the mass of the metal, with limited diffusion of ions. The mechanism of pitting corrosion is probably the same as crevice corrosion"
 
Ford should change their language inside their internal tech manuals. Lol
 
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