• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Looking for water cooling system

H

HomerRulez

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Messages
1,362
I need to find one that doesnt cost more than $150. I dont know what to get and know exactly nothing about water cooling. What I do know is they are very quiet and very powerful cooling solutions. Thats what I want. Im going to be OC my e6600 so I was hoping to get a good enough cooler for the cpu so my temps wouldnt be over 55c on load while its OC to say 3.6 or 3.8?
 
what do you think of this system? I might buy it but I dont know if its exactly whT i need. Any help would be great!

The system includes:

Swiftech MCW6000-P Retail Kit: 3/8" ID Barb fitting with mounting plate for Socket 478 as well as an additional mounting plate for SK8(not in pictures but will be included), Socket 939 AMD CPUs. This CPU is very rare but performs like a champion! Adapter for Intel 775 CPU mounting can be purchase from Swiftech's online shop atwww.Swiftech.com


Swiftech MCW20-R Retail Kit: 1/2" OD Quick Connects which are compatible with 1/2" OD tubing. Comes with mounting for hook type Intel chipsets and etc and mountings for Nvidia chipset.


C Systems CSP 750 Mark II Retail: 1/2" OD High Quality Metal Quick Connects installed, the pump was used for a few weeks. Quick connects are tightly screwed on with a clamp so there are some paint scratches on the quick connect. Super quiet pump, just make sure its resting on something except your metal case because the vibration will create unwanted sounds, like an improperly mounted hard drive. So lay a piece of foam under the pump.

CoolRad-12T Retail: Comes with 3/8" ID barbs with O-rings for tight seal. Slight paint chipping on the radiator but no leaks! I will not be providing any screws with this radiator. Thus, please use zip ties or exact length screws or you may puncture the radiator which will cause leaks!


Mini Cool Shroud: This is BRAND NEW, uninstalled with all original accessories in retail packaging. Designed to fit PC liquid cooling radiators that accept 120mm fans including radiators made by: CoolRads, Hardware Labs, ThermoChill, Black Ice, and Innovatek. ****Recommend to use this with CoolRad




a 120MM SilentX fan

4 Metal Clamps for the barb fittings

4 Fillers for the Quick Cconnect fittings for maximum seal
 
another one im thinking of buying is

EVERCOOL WC-202 VGA & CPU Water Cooling Kit

THERMALTAKE BIG WATER SE LIQUID

Kingwin AWC-1 Liquid Cooling Kit

any of those any good? Im not limited to those but thats all i can find. Anyone else reccomend any other water cooling system?
 
dont buy a kit like thermaltake they arent reliable.... get either a swiftech / alphacool / danger den / petra kit... they will last.

i got my alphacool kit from xoxide.com for my cpu for 130 bux reduced from 200, then ordered 3/8 tubing and connectors etc from performance pc's... sorted ;]
 
nightwalker said:
dont buy a kit like thermaltake they arent reliable.... get either a swiftech / alphacool / danger den / petra kit... they will last.

i got my alphacool kit from xoxide.com for my cpu for 130 bux reduced from 200, then ordered 3/8 tubing and connectors etc from performance pc's... sorted ;]
Click to expand...

200 total is a bit much to spend. How bout the crosair 500 external cooler? Will this work just as well as buying a 200+ system? Also whats the difference between this green stuff and pink stuff you use for these coolers?
 
HomerRulez said:
200 total is a bit much to spend. How bout the crosair 500 external cooler? Will this work just as well as buying a 200+ system? Also whats the difference between this green stuff and pink stuff you use for these coolers?
Click to expand...

i think they have 1 left at 130...http://www.xoxide.com/alphacool-basic-120-rev3.html

fluid wise depends....some people complain certain ones gunk up their system or whatever but ive never had a problem with what ive used. i use the non conductive primochill ice coolant.

the corsair kit isnt bad either.. most of the time the bigger kits are more expensive coz they have a bigger rad or something or slightly better water block but id rather buy the basic kit and buy the specific extras i want when i wanna upgrade.

if you still wanna buy it all seperate then dont forget newegg have the good 655 swiftech pump for 60 bux instead of the usual 75-80 in other places
 
I think hands down the best thing for you is a Coolermaster r80 or r120, depending if you have a 80 or 120mm fan in the rear of your case. BTW, I am a seasoned WC vet.

Here is why:

Externals are easy to set up, but they become cumbersome as they are outside the case. they perform well in many cases because they are also isolated from the hotter air inside the case. However, oftentimes the integration of the parts make it tightly coupled and inflexible to swapping parts and more expensive.

Separates are nice, but that is more against what you are looking for. It is easy to spend a lot when you are getting nice blocks, rads, pumps, etc.

Then there are the internal kits which are nice but can get pretty pricey too - i have yet to see a kit though where I have liked all the included parts. i prefer to mix and match separates.

There are just a few kits that are internal and solely for the cpu, and are affordable. The r120 is one of them. It is perfect for your budget: it can be had for around $90. It is self-contained, and ready to pop in and will not be hassle to set up for a WC newbie. It performs pretty well, and is pretty good in quality. When taken together and for the price, you have a damn compelling argument that it is perfect for your needs and cpu. Core 2 Duos run pretty cool, so you don't need a peltier or something.

I saw a piece on Cebit, and there is a new Aquagate from Coolermaster coming called the R1, but I have no idea about the release. It is a little more refined than the previous models.

Here are some reviews.
 
ok my case has 2 80 mm fans but i also have a centurian 532 case. The case that I currently have is this http://compustar-store.stores.yahoo.net/buhkcawi40po.html. Thats the one my system is currently connected too. The centurion case is empty and I was thinking of removing all the parts from the current case to the centurion 532. However will this help my cooling or any thing else for that matter? The centurion case BTW didnt come with a 120mm fan fot the back, only the front.

Will it be worth it to just remove th eparts from this http://compustar-store.stores.yahoo.net/buhkcawi40po.html case and put them in the centurion 532?

Oh and I have the option to get a r120 for 70 or a crosair 500 for 70. Both are used but the r120 is just a cpu cooler correct (?) and the crosair 500 is a whole system cooler. Both ofcourse being water cooling systems. Which one of those should I get? Thanks for the replies. Helped me narrow things down from I dont know to just a handful. ;)
 
Dude i am sorry to say don;t listen to the people who says don;t buy thermaltake.

Save you self some money and buy Thermaltake BigWater 745 from Newegg open box for $109 shipped, and enjoy.
 
Homer, if I were you, I'd spent the extra money and get a real setup. For $150, you are going to get marketed crap.

Two setups
Single 120MM rad setup ~ $180

MCR120-QP - $28.50 [link]
Swiftech MCP 355 12v DC Pump - $69.95 [link]
Swiftech Apogee GT - $52.95 [link]
10 feet ClearFLEX Tubing 3/8" - $8.90 [link]
3/8"T Line for 3/8" ID Tubing - Clear - $.99 [link]
Plastic Tubing Clamps - 5/8" - $3.20 [link]
Pentosin G11 Long-life Coolant - Blue - $3.50 [link]
Dangerden Fillport - Delrin - $11.95 [link]


Dual 120MM setup ~ $190

Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator - $41.00 [link]
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump - $69.95 [link]
Swiftech Apogee GT - $52.95 [link]
10 Feet Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" $5.90 [link]
1/2"T Line for 1/2" ID Tubing - Clear - $.99 [link]
Pentosin G11 Long-life Coolant - Blue - $3.50 [link]
Dangerden Fillport - Delrin - $11.95 [link]

You don't need clamps for the 7/16" on 1/2 inch as it is already VERY snug.

I hope you spend the extra $40 from what you orignally planned and get the dual 120MM I just layed out for you. It is all high quality parts that will cool your CPU very well. Add two YL fans for ~$13 and you have a COMPLETE kit for sub $200.

Edit: Saw you already got the r120, was a misundertanding on my part (and a waste of my time doing that research I would assume). However, I still recomend you get my dual 120MM setup if you ever wish to change. It will serve you much better than that.... thing... You could even add a 6 or 7 series NVid GPU to the dual 120MM setup.
 
that was not a waste. I will save it and possibly buy it if I can return the r120. That thing is a piece of shet. My idle temps right now without OC is 57c. What the heck shet is that? I never felt more angry in my life ever.
 
Thermaltake Silent Water $57 shipped from Zipzoomfly.

Or

Check open box items at Newegg $80 for water cooling.
 
funny thing guys, ur going to laugh your abs off. Now you know how when you have a hose and you bend it, the water doesnt come out. Well lets just say the hose was bent and now its not. Anyways im getting 40-41c at idle now with no OC and 44-46c idle with an oc from 1066 qdr fsb to 1500 fsb (3.38ghz) on the e6600. Now while that 10 to 15c lower I was hoping to get 35c :(
 
ok how do i get my temps down? Im going back to the store to buy more paste but is there any high end pastes? Also what fan should I get to attach to the radiator of the R120? I want my temps to be at the 20s too :(
 
Simpel answer, get rid of the r120. Get the dual 120MM setup I posted, and you will definately see temps in the 20's if you do not add anything else to the loop.

If you have no other option, only two ways to improve the temps on the r120 would be to use Artic Silver 5 thermal compound and the highest CFM fan you can get. However, I do not think that will drop your temps below 40C.

If you really want a good cooler but for cheaper, get the Zalman 9700 Fan.
 
Jomanscool2 said:
Simpel answer, get rid of the r120. Get the dual 120MM setup I posted, and you will definately see temps in the 20's if you do not add anything else to the loop.

If you have no other option, only two ways to improve the temps on the r120 would be to use Artic Silver 5 thermal compound and the highest CFM fan you can get. However, I do not think that will drop your temps below 40C.

If you really want a good cooler but for cheaper, get the Zalman 9700 Fan.
Click to expand...

store credit is all i can get. The only other water cooling they have is the thermaltake se bigwater and another coolermaster external one. The thermaltake is 140 and I the R120 I got is broke kinda. The knob for the fan to control the speed, is broke. :(. Im sure that alone they will knock off 40 bucks. Which means I would have to add 90 dollars which si ontop of the 100 i spent. This sux! Guess thats whay happens when you are impatient. Anyways I bought coolermaster and antec type paste and a new fan for the R120. Hopefully this will help solve the issues of higher than normal temps.
 
You're not THAT poorly off....

I was getting an idle temp of 45 with my system (double radiator, conroe and 8800GTS in the loop) before it blew up...

Load temps are what counts dude. Load temps.

I've NEVER seen a conroe, clocked over 3.2ghz, with a lower than 40 idle.
 
im at stock speed and its idle at 41 to 43c with water cooling.I got mid 40s with stock air cooling. When I use to have a pentium 4 3ghz cpu back in the day. its temps were always around 39 to 42c on stock air cooling. Its was a prc800 deluxe board with a 5900ultra gpu and 1gb ddr 3200
 
imho what everyone else gets is irrelevant, because everyone got different setup, ambient temp etc. My 6600 idles at 30C with moderate oc and stock voltage with a stock intel cooler. Also, who knows how people measure temperatures, AFAIK, TAT is considered to be the most precise as it reads the temp off the on-die sensor on both cores.
 
unless people live in alaska, there no reason for people to be having temps 15 degrees lower than mine on Air! Different setup or not. C2D are suppose to be cooler chips. When a pentium 4 chip running in the same room 5 or so years ago on air cooling is around what C2D on water cooling is, then somethings wrong or the product has been hyped up big time. Plain and simple. If comparin other peoples system isnt a good measure how about comparing my own system and also one from 5 or so years ago? Either way this turned out to be a waste of everything you can think of. i'll RMA it and get some new parts for the R120 and hope I just have a defective system. Until then, my temps are what they are and thats crap IMO!
 
this is getting old i live in a place that is warm room temps are at least 23C or 70 something
sooo many people post without ambient temps in the post
 
AuroraProject said:
My X6800 at 3.8ghz 1.44 vcore idles at 33C. :p
Click to expand...

I find that hard to believe... Not doubting you or anything, (and you did lap both the CPU and your Fuzion) but I havn't seen any IntelTAT screenies of your setup.

Just the old TDX you were using where your idles were at 42. As per your thread :)
 
Homer, chill out. Before you rush to conclusions, try reseating the waterblock, try another paste, try rearranging all the cables in the case, make sure you have a good airflow all the way through. It's not just the room temperature, there might many other things that you may be overlooking. I dunno what's wrong with your setup, but if I were you, I'd try redoing everything before blaming everything and everyone around. Sometimes a little thing, like the waterblock not making good contact with the cpu, may cause such big differences in temp. Also, like I said, try TAT to check the REAL cpu temps.
 
TehQuick said:
Homer, chill out. Before you rush to conclusions, try reseating the waterblock, try another paste, try rearranging all the cables in the case, make sure you have a good airflow all the way through. It's not just the room temperature, there might many other things that you may be overlooking. I dunno what's wrong with your setup, but if I were you, I'd try redoing everything before blaming everything and everyone around. Sometimes a little thing, like the waterblock not making good contact with the cpu, may cause such big differences in temp. Also, like I said, try TAT to check the REAL cpu temps.
Click to expand...


TOOK THE WHOLE SYSTEM APART, THE PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. tRIED CLEANING THE PASTE AND USING NEW PASTE.. Woops had caps on. Anyways I have the system set up tight and snug right on the cpu. Its perfectly put. I may be a noob but I know I did this right and have checke dit over several times.

I first screwed up when the tubes weere curved too much and the water wouldnt get through. So i fixed that issue and realligned everything to as much perfection as can be. The systems air flow is good. The 120mm fan in the centurion 532 case is cool and its blowing air in the proper direction. I bought a new fan, that didnt help. I bought afan controller to control the speed, that didnt help. I took apart the system I swear at least 5 times and put it back together that didnt help. The only thing I tried that worked was taking a HUGE HUGE fan and blowing it right inside the case on its highest setting and that droped the temp by 4 degrees. I tried several things.

My only option is to RMA it however I who is to say the new "working" one that comes in does what its suppose to? Its bad enough I payed double the price of this crappy system, its even worse that it doesnt even do what I had hoped. If I wanted my temps to drop a measly 6 degrees tops, I would have blown on it like it was hot soup! All in all im disapointed and a little sad that i wasited so much time and money on this.Should have just never bothered. To make matters worse no store refunds allowed! Only credit..
 
Well, ok, you still didn't tell me, what proggy you are using to check the cpu temp? and what's your mobo?
 
evga A1 680i, TAT, Core Temp, SpeedFan. All suprisingly showing temps no more than 1 degree off. Oh and also useing the bios system monitor
 
ok i moved the radiator part of the r120 and propeed it sp the tubes are straight and not slightly curved. I also added a 120mm fan to the back to blow into the case and the temps are at 37-39c idle without OC. Should the 120mm fan from the back of the case be blowing in or out? Out right? I figured I blow it in for some extra cooling but will it be better to bring my tempos even more down if I get it to blow out of the case?
 
ok since i cant exactly return this system to the place I bought it...COMPUSTAR aka biggest rip off ever. $139 for a CM external cpy system when newegg has it for 26.99. Anyways how much can I sell the R120 I have and what can I get instead of this? Im willing to spend 150 above what i make for the R120. My only problem is HOW DO I INSTALL SUCK A THING? :confused: . I know for a fact that I would ruin such a thing and blast my system to high hell. Now is there anyone here who knows someone in brooklyn who can put together a WC system for me after I buy it or is there a compltete water cooling system out there that is already put together? I dont want my computer to turn into an expensive fish tank
 
well, for airflow you need suction really, so you should have more fans sucking air out rather than blowing in...

As for watercooling setup - do you really need it? High-end air coolers can compete with water, and require less maintenance. Check out Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra 120... They are heavy, but they also work pretty well :)
 
TehQuick said:
well, for airflow you need suction really, so you should have more fans sucking air out rather than blowing in...

As for watercooling setup - do you really need it? High-end air coolers can compete with water, and require less maintenance. Check out Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra 120... They are heavy, but they also work pretty well :)
Click to expand...



my room is less than warm on a cold day and hot on a hot day. So a high end air cooler may only blow warm air to the cpu? So what you are saying though is that if I buy a whole system of WC it will be equal or very slightly better than high nd air cooling? WHY?
 
Arcygenical said:
I find that hard to believe... Not doubting you or anything, (and you did lap both the CPU and your Fuzion) but I havn't seen any IntelTAT screenies of your setup.

Just the old TDX you were using where your idles were at 42. As per your thread :)
Click to expand...

Not that I have anything to prove, but here it is. Yes, I initially did have a 40C+ idle. Since then I have:

Lapped the IHS
Found the minimum vcore for a stable overclock (1.44 vdroop down from 1.55)
Replaced the TDX with the Fuzion
Flipped my rad fans from pull to push (only netted a 2C drop)

Idling with a room temp of 75F:

original.jpg
 
HomerRulez said:
my room is less than warm on a cold day and hot on a hot day. So a high end air cooler may only blow warm air to the cpu? So what you are saying though is that if I buy a whole system of WC it will be equal or very slightly better than high nd air cooling? WHY?
Click to expand...

Well, how do you cool your water? You use the same air, which a regular air cooler will use, unless you gonna go the water-chilling way. In any case, on C2Ds, high-end air coolers will perform just as well as low-to-midrange watercooling, imho. For WHY, read the sticky.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top