lapping job

Yea the image you linked to looks like a perfectly fine lapping job.

Mirror != Good Lapping

You want the surface flat, minor blemishes are of no concern. In fact when most people try to get that mirror finish they end up making the surface not flat anymore.

Also don't lap heatsinks, most modern heatsinks come machine lapped to much flatter than you can do manually. You will only ruin the flatness by trying to lap it yourself. Even if it isn't shiny when you get it, it is flat!
 
oh when i lapp things there flat, and the scratches in the surface of the lapping job that the other person did is what i was sort of complaining about.. almost looks as if he scraped it with his screw driver

i took two cpus i lapped once.. rubbed them with my finger and pressed them together.. i had to oreo them as i slid them apart because the oil of my skin suctioned them together so bad you couldnt pull them apart
 
Lapped a LOT of stuff, some on jewlers equipment, after about 1200 grit I cant find any difference and think the mounting and paste application make more of a difference. But Lapping is a Zen like thing, whatever makes you happy :D I lapp ramsinks and have been known to take jewelers rouge and lap an IHS with/to the heatsink/waterblock it was intended for. /sick. Couldnt measure any improviment but I felt good about it :eek:

Huge debates raging for YEARS on size of scratches, orientation, circular motion vs back and forth, particle size of paste ad nausem. Just to clarify you are talking about surface "roughness' not flatness. Two entirely different things whch from your post I think you understand completely. I mention it for others that might wander by and read this.
 
ryuji said:
a little while back my friend showed me a image of what a person on these forums thought was a 'professional' lapping job... this is for whoever that was;)

http://www.bbpix.com/ufiles/1/lappingq6600/lappingq6600 (23).JPG is the image he linked me in his email.. terrible
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Ooooh shiny.... too bad shiny doesn't mean dick... :rolleyes:

The image the original poster linked to was from my thread, actually... just so everyone's clear.

Anyone notice that his camera is focused on the reflection of the PENNY and NOT the actual surface of the IHS itself? Hmmmmm?

The point of lapping is to obtain a truly flat surface and NOT to obtain a mirror finish. I didn't spend the time or the money on extra polishing papers or compound. The highest I went is 2200 grit and those are the 'scratches' you see. Take a photo of your CPU with the camera focused on the IHS, with the same amount of angle relative to the camera lens and the same amount of flash. Then come here and talk shit....

Oh and here's some more news for you, chief dickhead. I never said ANYTHING or made ANY claims that my lapping job was 'professional'. In fact my post (as with all my posts) was made partially in order to gleam whatever constructive criticisms some of my fellow [H]ardForum members might have. Now pull your head out of your ass and lose the cocky attitude... it doesn't fly here. :mad:
 
BillParrish said:
Lapped a LOT of stuff, some on jewlers equipment, after about 1200 grit I cant find any difference and think the mounting and paste application make more of a difference. But Lapping is a Zen like thing, whatever makes you happy :D I lapp ramsinks and have been known to take jewelers rouge and lap an IHS with/to the heatsink/waterblock it was intended for. /sick. Couldnt measure any improviment but I felt good about it :eek:

Huge debates raging for YEARS on size of scratches, orientation, circular motion vs back and forth, particle size of paste ad nausem. Just to clarify you are talking about surface "roughness' not flatness. Two entirely different things whch from your post I think you understand completely. I mention it for others that might wander by and read this.
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must have been really cool working with the jewelers equipment, but indeed.. when i lapp things i make them both smooth and flat.. you can sort of tell the flatness because theres no optical defects in the image as well...

and with what was said about the thermal interface material... one time for kicks i cleaned both my water block and the cpu ihs really nice.. and put it on bare.. only 1 or 2C increase in load temp compared to 3 months baked in as5... that was back when i ran a 3.2E that loaded at 60C.. these days its prob not even a detectable temp diff
 
Blue Falcon said:
Oh and here's some more news for you, chief dickhead. I never said ANYTHING or made ANY claims that my lapping job was 'professional'. In fact my post (as with all my posts) was made partially in order to gleam whatever constructive criticisms some of my fellow [H]ardForum members might have. Now pull your head out of your ass and lose the cocky attitude... it doesn't fly here. :mad:
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my friend gave me incorrect information then... he linked me the image straight from your hosting in his email to me and misinformed me on the scenerio, and i apologize

i personally only go to 2000 grit, i dont understand why you get so much surface abrasions in your work with 2200:confused: only thing i can think of is your not keeping your sand paper clean/wet sanding? working my way up from 800g to 2000g takes me about 45 minutes total and the 1000/2000 grit lasts a extremely long time compared to the lower grits so the price of the higher grit papers is moot for me
 
ryuji said:
i personally only go to 2000 grit, i dont understand why you get so much surface abrasions in your work with 2200:confused: only thing i can think of is your not keeping your sand paper clean/wet sanding? working my way up from 800g to 2000g takes me about 45 minutes total and the 1000/2000 grit lasts a extremely long time compared to the lower grits so the price of the higher grit papers is moot for me
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As I said, take another photo with the camera lens focused on the actual surface of the IHS and not the penny with flash and at the same angle as my photo. Then we can 'compare scratches' as it were, although the whole argument is meaningless anyway. In your photo posted above, the camera is focused on the penny (and not even entirely sharp there) and at an odd angle, therefore any marks on the IHS are not in focus and not visible.

I do feel I must apologize for calling you a 'dickhead' earlier today, that kind of insult isn't usually in my nature - but I don't take kindly to being insulted for no reason out of the blue. I'm no professional by any means but my lapping job was by no means horrible as you made it out to be. The chip in question now has a perfectly flat IHS and lapping knocked 5 degrees off the load temps. Definitely good enough for me....
 

didnt even see the dust on the ihs when i took the photo... ohwell too bad its installed now lol (the cpu in this post is different from the original post btw )

my friend wrongfully told me that you claimed it was a professional job... i dont do a professional job either... i have been doing this for a long time tho
 
Tip: Use the reflection of graph paper to help check for flatness. Also use a sheet of glass when you lap to make sure your keeping it flat. If your not doing that or something similar odds are you are making the IHS at least slightly convex.
 


This was my second attempt at lapping a Heat sink did a Zalman 9700 awhile ago stopped at 2000 grit and I thought it wasn't bad for a novice.
 
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