KS8000/KS8500 users

[Riptide_NVN]

Could be the test pattern that I'm using above to verify this but with -2 it seems like the Red/Green are closer to 2.4 but the blue at that point is more like a 2.6. If I dial it back to 0 then Red/Green are closer to 2.2 and the blue ends up more like 2.4 at that point.

Individual adjustments on the TV would be best but it doesn't allow for it. I could use the NVidia driver however I'm not sure if those changes filter down to games. They may only apply to the desktop.

 

[Wiz33]

i find the auto backlight works fairly well. I just set what I'm comfortable with in daytime in picture setting and turn on Eco backlight and set the minimum for evening. That usually works well enough most of the time (sometimes have to bump the minimum up or down one on some contents and games).

 

[MaZa]

Could be the test pattern that I'm using above to verify this but with -2 it seems like the Red/Green are closer to 2.4 but the blue at that point is more like a 2.6. If I dial it back to 0 then Red/Green are closer to 2.2 and the blue ends up more like 2.4 at that point.

Individual adjustments on the TV would be best but it doesn't allow for it. I could use the NVidia driver however I'm not sure if those changes filter down to games. They may only apply to the desktop.

The eyeballing test at lagom is not exactly accurate. But i can measure it once i get home.

 

[Riptide_NVN]

At first I wasn't sure about Warm2 but from a practical standpoint now that I've used it for a couple days it seems easier on my eyes. Whites aren't quite as bright but are perhaps a bit more realistic. For now I've settled with a backlight of 8 which seems like a good compromise between a dark room and one that has some light getting into it from a north facing window behind me.

Regarding the gamma. At least going off of the lagom test pattern results and just eyeballing it. The blue is consistently about .2-.3 more points than red and green. Since I can't decouple the individual adjustments I left the display at -2 which seems to be the best compromise.

If I had the right equipment to test more accurately I may be able to fine tune things a bit further.

 

[MaZa]

The eyeballing test at lagom is not exactly accurate. But i can measure it once i get home.

I did the measurements and oh wow, you are correct. The gamma in blue channel is indeed quite extremely off. In movie mode where I have corrected the gamma to 2.4 with a mild curve down its not so extreme but still noticeably off from average. I did not warm up the display nor the colorimeter so the quick measurements are not completely accurate and may straighten out a bit once things get warm but not this much.

Still though, this is not something that matters much in the end. The average gamma (yellow line in pictures) of all colors is what is important since what we are watching in movies is the combination of all channels.

*edit* Here is a person wondering about the same thing.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...h-contrast-if-luminance-gamma-acceptable.html

Consensus seem to be that if everything else is fine, it does not really matter especially since the deviation is on the upper end of the spectrum. I could probably fix it by sacrificing some of the contrast ratio (kill some of the blue luminance basically) but nope, not gonna do it.

 

[Riptide_NVN]

I wonder what the cause is and why the PC mode is significantly further out of alignment. Also would this vary with one display vs. another of the same model?

The link you posted seems to be basically the same situation. I'm not well versed in the science of this so some of it is over my nogan. Interesting regardless and I appreciate the info. Thanks

 

[MaZa]

I'm just a hobbyist so I'm not too well versed in the exact science of it either. But why the PC mode is so off is because in the Movie mode I have 10-point white balance calibration available and can use it shape the gamma curve to my liking, as far as average goes that is. Naturally it will correct some of the blue gamma oddity too. If I were to reset the corrections it would probably look very much like the PC mode one. If I were to drop the contrast slider I might be able to correct the top end gamma somewhat but as I said that would kill the contrast ratio completely, which is one of the best things in this TV.

 

[Conal]

Hello. I have recently purchased a UE49KS8000 and it will arrive on Tuesday 23/05/2017 (I hope this makes me 'owner' enough) & I have two questions about it.

One thing that perplexes me about this product is that on Samsung's page for the TV it shows this image:
http://samsung.com/uk/tv/resource/img/pdp_smart.png

The accompanying One Connect looks like this:
http://flatpanelshd.com/pictures/Samsung_KS8000_large_1.jpg

And the ports on the back of the TV look like this:
http://avgearshop.com/media/catalog/product/s/a/samsung-un55ks8000-gallery-6.jpg

So my first question is; where is HDMI #5 , DVI or Component? Is this TV one of the exceptions where a direct HDMI to component cable would work properly? I can already assume HDMI Port #2 would work on a HDMI adaptor, and while we're at it, would a HDMI to SCART adapter work?

I'm interested to know what signals can travel down these HDMI ports with simple pin adaptors.

My second question is; can this TV access a 10 bit HDR video over a LAN via media server or shared directories from my computer and initiate it's HDR mode? I have a 980 Ti which I am all to aware means I cannot use the TV as a 10bit HDR monitor (since the GTX 980 Ti is HDMI 2.0a not 2.0b) and that I would need a 10xx series card, so I am very interested to know if I can STILL utilise the 10 bit HDR features by having the TV play the HDR file directly.

Any help is much appreciated!