KS8000/KS8500 users

Riptide_NVN

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Is anyone here using these displays with ycbcr 4:4:4 60hz 8bit direct connect from their HTPC via HDMI?

Have you had dropout/handshake problems?

I'm on my 2nd HDMI cable now. I've tried a second HDMI port on the gtx 1080. I'm testing right now with another port on the one connect box.

If I keep having issues with handshake I'm thinking about the only thing left to do is try a $79 monster cable to completely eliminate cable. After that an exchange if BB will still allow it. Question is this possibly a Samsung design issue? What are the odds the next set does the same thing?
 

Wiz33

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How often are you seeing this. Did the screen just goes black or a sec then come back or something more serious? Are you going through anything in between and at what length. I think I talked to you about this on another thread. I had it earlier when I first got the JU7500 before I got good quality HDMI 2.0 cables ( it was doing it a few times every hour). I now have 10' going from PC to a 4K receiver then a 6' from receiver to TV. I may have seen it a few times in the last 4 months. This is the cable I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YNH0DV2?psc=1
 

alaricljs

Limp Gawd
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Not that model, but otherwise yes... I went through 5 cables. During my quest for a working cable the HDMI people initiated the 'Certified' cable program and Monoprice came out with theirs. I use the 15' without issue.

edit: PS - Monster Cable ... not even going to get into it. Save your money.
 

MaZa

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Its not the cable. As long as the cable is HDMI 1.4 High speed + ethernet (there is no difference between cables in HDMI 1.4 and 2.0+, only the ports are different. Dedicated HDMI 2.0 cables are waste of money) it should either work or it does not.

Only time there is a relatively lengthy time of black screen is when the TV switches automatically between PC mode and Movie mode when my movie player changes the refresh rates between 23hz and 60hz. Otherwise no drop outs at all. If you keep on having drop out problems randomly without anything changing in the background (refresh rate, resolution or such...) you have a problem either with graphics card or TV, thats what I believe.
 

Wiz33

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Its not the cable. As long as the cable is HDMI 1.4 High speed + ethernet (there is no difference between cables in HDMI 1.4 and 2.0+, only the ports are different. Dedicated HDMI 2.0 cables are waste of money) it should either work or it does not.

Only time there is a relatively lengthy time of black screen is when the TV switches automatically between PC mode and Movie mode when my movie player changes the refresh rates between 23hz and 60hz. Otherwise no drop outs at all. If you keep on having drop out problems randomly without anything changing in the background (refresh rate, resolution or such...) you have a problem either with graphics card or TV, thats what I believe.

So so wrong. I had a bunch of so called High speed HDMI 1.4 cables from Amazon and Monoprice that were not HDMI 2.0 rate and they surely failed to run 4K@60 4:4:4 when I got the 4K TV. I'm sure there might be a few that would work but why bother, it's not like the certified ones are that much more unless you're crazy enough to go buy a Monster (totally useless) or one of the self powered optical (great for long distance but super expensive)
 

Riptide_NVN

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There is nothing in between the set and the gtx 1080. Just a straight 3 foot monoprice cable.

It can go a couple days and be fine. Then all the sudden it blinks off for 2-3 seconds and then comes back. Sometimes that is it for a while. Other times it will keep doing it every minute or two until I force the handshake with hdmiyo. It is intermittent and seemingly random.

I'm asking around to see if I can find someone using this set with the same settings and a direct connection to the PC because I'm going to be annoyed to put it mildly if I end up going to the trouble of an exchange and have the same issue. I want to make sure this isn't a model specific design problem.
 

MaZa

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So so wrong. I had a bunch of so called High speed HDMI 1.4 cables from Amazon and Monoprice that were not HDMI 2.0 rate and they surely failed to run 4K@60 4:4:4 when I got the 4K TV. I'm sure there might be a few that would work but why bother, it's not like the certified ones are that much more unless you're crazy enough to go buy a Monster (totally useless) or one of the self powered optical (great for long distance but super expensive)
Then there was something wrong with the cables. When HDMI 2.0 came out it was said many times from many sources that existing 1.4 high speed cables are capable of carrying the increased bandwidth. The change is entirely on the hardware side. I am running 4K @ 60hz 4:4:4 on my 1.4 cable just fine too.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/hdmi-2-0-explained/
https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-2-0-what-you-need-to-know/
 

Riptide_NVN

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I get that the cables aren't supposed to make a difference yet real world experience has shown that they do occasionally have a noticeable effect on these handshake type of issues.

At this point I just want to make sure that somebody, somewhere, has run 4:4:4 60hz ycbcr directly from a PC into this model television and not had handshake problems.

I did waste my money on the monster cable but haven't installed it yet. I realize it most likely will not help. That said I am desperate to solve the problem at this point and even if it has a 5% chance of success I'm willing to risk it. At least I get a lifetime warranty and free upgrades down the road if needed.
 

MaZa

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Well it definetly is not model specific problem. Mine is running fine without hiccups. Also, just making sure we have not missed anything obvious, have you upgraded your drivers recently? My old GTX770 had some wierd couple of seconds long black screening whenever I started a Youtube video or closed a browser with youtube video running and even that was quite random. That was just a few months back actually, not long before I got my GTX1080.
 

Riptide_NVN

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I'm on 375.63 of the driver.

If you are on a direct connect PC->TV at the settings I mentioned previously of 4:4:4 60hz 8bit ycbcr without problems then I can assume it isn't a design issue and that answers my question. I just got the third cable installed on here now and will test with the set connected to HDMI3 on the one connect.

Any more problems after this and I will have to try the exchange next.
 

Wiz33

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Then there was something wrong with the cables. When HDMI 2.0 came out it was said many times from many sources that existing 1.4 high speed cables are capable of carrying the increased bandwidth. The change is entirely on the hardware side. I am running 4K @ 60hz 4:4:4 on my 1.4 cable just fine too.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/hdmi-2-0-explained/
https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-2-0-what-you-need-to-know/
Oh, I agree that they should according to the spec. Problem is typical advertising. They say things that are not true and since there are so few devices capable of 4K@60 4:4:4 during that time. It's very hard to say which one actually meet spec and which don't.
 

Wiz33

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There is nothing in between the set and the gtx 1080. Just a straight 3 foot monoprice cable.

It can go a couple days and be fine. Then all the sudden it blinks off for 2-3 seconds and then comes back. Sometimes that is it for a while. Other times it will keep doing it every minute or two until I force the handshake with hdmiyo. It is intermittent and seemingly random.

I'm asking around to see if I can find someone using this set with the same settings and a direct connection to the PC because I'm going to be annoyed to put it mildly if I end up going to the trouble of an exchange and have the same issue. I want to make sure this isn't a model specific design problem.

Go over to AVS and post you question again in the KS8000/8500 owner thread. it's fairly active and I'm sure a some of them have a HTPC hooked up.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...cial-samsung-ks8000-ks8500-owners-thread.html
 

mls1995

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Is anyone here using these displays with ycbcr 4:4:4 60hz 8bit direct connect from their HTPC via HDMI?

Have you had dropout/handshake problems?

I'm on my 2nd HDMI cable now. I've tried a second HDMI port on the gtx 1080. I'm testing right now with another port on the one connect box.

If I keep having issues with handshake I'm thinking about the only thing left to do is try a $79 monster cable to completely eliminate cable. After that an exchange if BB will still allow it. Question is this possibly a Samsung design issue? What are the odds the next set does the same thing?
I have an HTPC hooked up to a receiver and then to an 8500. The cables are all HDMI 2.0 18Gbps. Zero problems. I'm using Intel HD integrated graphics right now.
 

Riptide_NVN

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Go over to AVS and post you question again in the KS8000/8500 owner thread. it's fairly active and I'm sure a some of them have a HTPC hooked up.
Did that this morning so far only reply I've received over there was from someone who had a receiver inline between the computer and the HTPC. This is not a directly comparable scenario unfortunately.
I have an HTPC hooked up to a receiver and then to an 8500. The cables are all HDMI 2.0 18Gbps. Zero problems. I'm using Intel HD integrated graphics right now.
Thanks however that isn't the scenario I needed to replicate.

MaZa seemed to state that his setup is a direct connect ycbcr 4:4:4 60hz connection via HDMI from a PC. No receiver inline. No problems. This is evidence that there may not be a design issue going on here which is good.

OTOH I found a thread from someone on geforce.com who has the 49KS8000 and has gone through numerous cables, drivers, reinstalled his OS, etc. and still had handshake problems. So the issue definitely does not seem limited to just me. This appears to be finicky technology or a product (the TV) with poor quality control.
 

mls1995

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Did that this morning so far only reply I've received over there was from someone who had a receiver inline between the computer and the HTPC. This is not a directly comparable scenario unfortunately.

Thanks however that isn't the scenario I needed to replicate.

MaZa seemed to state that his setup is a direct connect ycbcr 4:4:4 60hz connection via HDMI from a PC. No receiver inline. No problems. This is evidence that there may not be a design issue going on here which is good.

OTOH I found a thread from someone on geforce.com who has the 49KS8000 and has gone through numerous cables, drivers, reinstalled his OS, etc. and still had handshake problems. So the issue definitely does not seem limited to just me. This appears to be finicky technology or a product (the TV) with poor quality control.
Bummer. The receiver shouldn't fix problems though, I think this sounds like an Nividia issue. I hate AMD but I guess I'll have to consider them if Nvidia has handshake issues. I've been thinking of putting a video card in my HTPC.
 

Riptide_NVN

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The receiver could fix this because you no longer have the PC making the handshake directly with the TV. It then goes PC->Receiver->TV. Right now I have PC->TV.

So it may not "fix" it but it certainly may mask the issue.
 

alaricljs

Limp Gawd
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Then there was something wrong with the cables. When HDMI 2.0 came out it was said many times from many sources that existing 1.4 high speed cables are capable of carrying the increased bandwidth. The change is entirely on the hardware side. I am running 4K @ 60hz 4:4:4 on my 1.4 cable just fine too.
And yet the HDMI spec people finally agreed there were issues and started a cable certification program to ensure that consumers could get something that works. The shorter the cable the easier it is to do the job so yes, many people have no issue since short cables are more common. The longer you go the more likely you're going to run into issues, but that doesn't mean there aren't 6' cables that can't handle it.
 

Ticker305

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Just came home with a 65inch curved Samsung KS8500 in anticipation for the PS4 Pro, anyone else notice really bad light bleed in the bottom left corners during HDR content? Streamed Daredevil and Bosch in HDR UHD and its really noticeable in dark scenes, looks like two conversation bubbles in the bottom and left and right corners. Its only noticeable in HDR and I don't see it with normal 4k or upscaled 1080p content. The default HDR setsd the backlight the max (20) setting and I have Smart Led set to High. Wondering if this is normal for this model or did i possibly lose the panel lottery.
 

Commander Shepard

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Just came home with a 65inch curved Samsung KS8500 in anticipation for the PS4 Pro, anyone else notice really bad light bleed in the bottom left corners during HDR content? Streamed Daredevil and Bosch in HDR UHD and its really noticeable in dark scenes, looks like two conversation bubbles in the bottom and left and right corners. Its only noticeable in HDR and I don't see it with normal 4k or upscaled 1080p content. The default HDR setsd the backlight the max (20) setting and I have Smart Led set to High. Wondering if this is normal for this model or did i possibly lose the panel lottery.
I don't have any such bleed with HDR on my KS8500. Mine is the 49", however, so don't know if that makes any difference.
 

MaZa

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Just came home with a 65inch curved Samsung KS8500 in anticipation for the PS4 Pro, anyone else notice really bad light bleed in the bottom left corners during HDR content? Streamed Daredevil and Bosch in HDR UHD and its really noticeable in dark scenes, looks like two conversation bubbles in the bottom and left and right corners. Its only noticeable in HDR and I don't see it with normal 4k or upscaled 1080p content. The default HDR setsd the backlight the max (20) setting and I have Smart Led set to High. Wondering if this is normal for this model or did i possibly lose the panel lottery.
Is it really bleed or is the black level just being elevated? Because the latter is definetly the nature of the edge led local dimming and there is no way around it. Put a bias light behind the TV to make it less visible. If its really bleed or flashlighting have the tv changed.
 

Riptide_NVN

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It seems like the monster cable may have helped but the screen is still occasionally dropping out on me. This is also on a different port on the one connect box. Happens every few days.

I may have to box this up and deal with an exchange now. And if the next one behaves the same as this one then I have a problem with my 1080 or my Windows install. This sucks! :/
 

Sufu

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I've also ran into issues with crappy HDMI cables on my JS9500. Last year's model but mostly the same. I've replaced all my HDMI cables with these from Amazon, and have had no issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before that, I couldn't run 4k60hz 4:4:4 through my AVR without the screen going black on my nvidia shield, or sometimes failing to wake up if left idle on my HTPC with a GTX 950 in it. All sorts of annoying little issues.
 

Riptide_NVN

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Yah I'm on the third cable now. The current one is a monster cable 27gbps. At this point I have to assume cable isn't the problem. :(
 

Sufu

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Yah I'm on the third cable now. The current one is a monster cable 27gbps. At this point I have to assume cable isn't the problem. :(
Try the amazon cable I linked above as a last shot. I also went through 2 or 3 cables I had lying around until I got a good working one. Even the Amazon basic hdmi cables didn't work for me at 4k.
 

Riptide_NVN

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BB let me exchange it and they also gave me $200 back since the price of the set dropped after I bought it. Was pretty happy with that. Now I just need to do some more testing and see if that was really the issue or not.
 

PCDC650

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Bought a 49KS8000 for $680 to use as a monitor. Awaiting shipment. Hope I get a good one!
 

Riptide_NVN

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My second one had a defect in the screen which manifest itself as a gray spot that looked like a dead pixel. It was in a place I couldn't deal with. So I went back in to the store and persuaded them to swap the set out again, for a THIRD one. BB not only allowed this next exchange also out of the allowable period to do so. But they delivered it for free.

They came out yesterday and installed the third one. Thus far I haven't been able to find any issues with it but it is early yet and am still testing.
 

Riptide_NVN

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Is there any way to have Movie mode enabled with UHD turned ON and 4:4:4 selected in the driver? I can't get it to work.

UHD turned ON disables Movie mode and puts the display into PC mode every time. Doesn't matter if I edit the name on the input either.
 

Riptide_NVN

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OK I don't think it is possible to run the KS8000 in Movie mode, UHD turned on, and 4:4:4 in the driver. Changing the name of the input from PC to something else doesn't matter.

I've switched inputs, renamed the input, then set the driver to 4:2:0 ycbcr. Gone into the display then, set Movie mode, and turned UHD back on. Once I go back to the desktop and enable 4:4:4 ycbcr the screen goes into Standard mode and Movie mode is not selectable at that point.
 

MaZa

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Is there any way to have Movie mode enabled with UHD turned ON and 4:4:4 selected in the driver? I can't get it to work.

UHD turned ON disables Movie mode and puts the display into PC mode every time. Doesn't matter if I edit the name on the input either.
No. PC mode and Movie mode are basically the same expect in PC mode nearly everything is locked out, unfortunately even color space controls.

Regarding name change you should get movie mode (game mode too) back if you rename the input into Bluray Player. It does so from HDMI1 port with mine atleast. You will lose 4:4:4 though
 

Riptide_NVN

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Yah that is what I have figured out. 4:4:4 excludes movie mode. So if you want 4:4:4 you are limited to PC mode.

Someone on another forum was indicating otherwise - I think they are misinformed.
 

Riptide_NVN

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You guys running Normal, Warm1, Warm2, etc.?

I've been using Normal for a while but am reading that Warm 2 is typically closer to accurate color reproduction. The rtings settings article mentions it along with Movie mode. However since Movie mode is similar to PC mode Warm 2 may be the same in either mode. Not 100% sure on that however.
 

MaZa

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Warm 2 is closest to D65 standard, in both greyscale and white point temperature. This applies to both PC and Movie mode, I have measured both with my Display Pro. If the picture is too reddish for you even after trying to get used to it in few days, it might actually be below 6500K then. In that case Warm 1 may be better option if you do not have a colorimeter in hand to correct it (dont try to copy someone elses white balance settings, it will just screw things up more. Every TV and monitor is unique). Warm 2 might be more accurate if you look at the measured numbers but human eye is less sensitive to errors in blue than red so its better to err towards bit too cool than bit too warm IMHO.

Simply put, try Warm 2 for a week and let your eyes adjust. Then switch to Warm 1 and see if its too blueish and cool or is it better for your eyes.


*edit* I might add that the Normal color temperature is something like 9000K+. I dont remember the exact number thats like freezing cold and horribly blue tinted. Way off from any film standard.
 
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Riptide_NVN

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MaZa what are you running the display in? Warm 2? And what do you typically keep your backlight at?
 

MaZa

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Warm 2 in both PC and movie mode. Backlight is at 5 which results in comfortable 130 nits brightness for a dark room with a bias light behind the TV. Gamma is -2 which results in roughly 2.4 average gamma. In movie mode I have straightened the gamma curvre to a flat 2.4 with a mild slope at the blacks to prevent black crush. In PC mode I do not have that option since 10-point white balance is locked out but gamma is still at -2. I prefer the average 2.4 gamma over the old 2.2 standard but YMMV. Gamma at 0 averages at 2.2 in my TV and I presume its the same for most Samsung KS series.
 

Riptide_NVN

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Hey thanks. I am going to dupe your settings and see how they look. The backlight at 5 may be a bit low for me. My office is not kept dark unless we're watching a movie.

I have a gamma test pattern here I may try and experiment with to see which setting on the set gets it as close as possible.
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php

I ordered the vansky bias lighting setup today off amazon for $16. Figured why not it was cheap.
 

MaZa

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Yeah backlight is something you need to adjust to your viewing enviroment vs. how deep black levels you want. There is no right or wrong with that setting.
 
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