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Koolance integrated watercooling solutions?

B

beacon

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 11, 2005
Messages
265
Hey all,

Way back in the day I had a Athlon 1800+ box in a pre-built Koolance integrated system. They used Antec cases back in the day.

Fast forward to 2008. I want another watercooled box but I don't want to cut any of my P180s up nor do I want to have a radbox protruding out the back.

I looked up some of the Koolance prebuilts and they seem to have a quad-120MM radiator on top of a Lian-Li (might be a lookalike or built for Koolance by Lian Li, or they might just take a Lian-Li and mod it).

For $389, nonetheless. The Lian Li PC-1000 are ~200, plus a window for $50 (prices from a place like frozencpu or xoxide) do you think that these are worth it in terms of convenience and looks? They don't include waterblocks, pump or tubes. So I guess I'd be paying $150 for a radiator and a custom fit job...

What do you folks think?

Is there an easier way to do all of this? Or at least a way to fit a decent sized radiator INTERNALLY on a P180 without having to cut? Or on another box that isn't TOO TOO much bigger than a P180?

Thanks!
 
They use aluminum radiators in those, or at least they used to.

I'd go for the PC-A70 with the thermochill top if you don't want to do any modding, that way you can fit both an MCR220 and a PA120.2 in there with no cutting at all.
 
beacon said:
Care to elaborate?
Click to expand...

Most people avoid Koolance as a complete solution since its a mixed metal setup. The radiators are still ALU, while the plugs are steel or ALU on their copper blocks from what I've read elsewhere. Most of this is conjecture on my part as I've avoided their parts in the past, but its possible if that if you run a fluid that works in a mixed metal environment, you'd be fine.
 
Why not just use the swiftech rad box for a rear mounted radiator and then use Koolance blocks? I don't suggest using their radiators as they are made of aluminum. While you most likely won't have a problem using a koolance radiator, if used right, you will be ridiculed by other users on this and other forums.

The new Koolance blocks are very nice.
 
filthysanchez said:
I'd go for the PC-A70 with the thermochill top if you don't want to do any modding, that way you can fit both an MCR220 and a PA120.2 in there with no cutting at all.
Click to expand...

Did I miss something? There are no Thermochill tops for A70's. PA's do not line up with the fan holes (at least, stock...) in the A70's. Personal experience, but then again I didn't expect it to from the start.
 
Most people who speak down to Koolance are none users and are ignorant of what it's actually capable of.

I've been using my Koolance Exos 2 for 3 years nonstop 24/7 now and I have 0 issue.

Using an Aqua computer 775 block and 2 dangerden gtx260 blocks, my exos 2 works just fine keeping things cool.

So take it from me, 3 years of 0 hassel vs these idiots who have never seen one in real life, let alone speak on it with any kind of authority.
 
I sold 5 koolance units to clients, all had to be RMA'd or repaired in some way, either through corrosion (2x) a broken fan (1x) a fried control unit (1x) and one that leaked from the reservoir.

Not worth it IMO. Cheaper units that perform better can be had.
 
This "idiot" had a PC2 unit quite a while back. it was a POS. Only thing I can recommend from them currently, that I actually use, are their barbs.
 
So we have to have owned something before being able to speak on it with authority?
 
I ran a EXOS-1 unit for around 4 yrs and just recently retired it for my SFF lanbox build.

It cooled the following combo's just fine:

AMD Athlon XP Mobile 2500 Barton 2.0Ghz OCed to 2.6Ghz w/9700Pro and later AIW X800XT with 125 Mhz OC

Then I used it on my Athlon X2 4200 2.2Ghz OCed to 2.5Ghz with AIW X800XT.

Never had one issue with it, still works to this day and there is zero corrosion. I used Koolance blocks, which are copper, but are coated.
 
R1ckCa1n said:
You mean their compression fittings?
Click to expand...

Yeah, their fittings are actually quite good. For a while there, it was the only decent 90-degrees you could find before others started making them as well.

R1ckCa1n said:
Man that would be sweet if it fit a 120.3 radiator!
Click to expand...

It would be sweet! I did drop a 120.3 in top of a stock A70, but then again that requires modding. But that's expected, at least for me.
 
Arcygenical said:
I sold 5 koolance units to clients, all had to be RMA'd or repaired in some way, either through corrosion (2x) a broken fan (1x) a fried control unit (1x) and one that leaked from the reservoir.

Not worth it IMO. Cheaper units that perform better can be had.
Click to expand...
I know this is sort of a stupid question, but what coolant did they use in the corroded systems? Since I'm lazy, I've kept the Koolance pump and rad in my Alienware ALX, but I've upgraded my blocks (EK nickel plated FC-88 GTS and the built-in copper block on my Striker II NSE). I checked with the guys at Koolance, and they basically said that as long as I am using that Al radiator, I should use a propylene glycol based coolant (which happens to be what they sell). No issues whatsoever, in terms of corrosion that is. I think the corrosion issues with mixed metal setups are due to people not reading instruction manuals.
 
xb1 said:
I know this is sort of a stupid question, but what coolant did they use in the corroded systems? Since I'm lazy, I've kept the Koolance pump and rad in my Alienware ALX, but I've upgraded my blocks (EK nickel plated FC-8800 GTS and the built-in copper block on my Striker II NSE). I checked with the guys at Koolance, and they basically said that as long as I am using that Al radiator, I should use a propylene glycol based coolant (which happens to be what they sell). No issues whatsoever, in terms of corrosion that is. I think the corrosion issues with mixed metal setups are due to people not reading instruction manuals.
Click to expand...

They were all using a 10% mixture of Pentosin, which is an ethylene glycol based anti-corrosive...

Only one had major corrosion problems, the other was just a small caking of aluminum ions on the copper surfaces.

But, I'll agree... Corrosion is of little importance when the proper steps are taken. Hell, isolating the aluminum radiator electrically from the case ground is probably the best step to take. If a bare metal portion of the radiator comes in contact with the case, corrosion will happen... If it's totally electrically isolated (use rubber washers and nylon screws...) then accelerated corrosion is nigh impossible.
 
The Koolance ALX setup is sorta electrically isolated. Sorta. Its old and has been taken in and out 1000 times, so I doubt its isolated now. I still like the propylene glycol better for 2 reasons:
1: Its extremely easy to clean with pure H2O
2: Its not as toxic as ethylene glycol (but you still shouldn't put it into your coffee).
 
Pentosin is actually a broad range anti-corrosive... It's got three different chemicals, two of which are the glycols, the third I can't remember.
 
Quoth the Petra:
Pentosin G11
This product contains Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Sebacic Acid, and Sodium Hydroxide--DO NOT INGEST!
 
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