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Koolance External "2000W" system

X

xp3nd4bl3

2[H]4U
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
Messages
2,259
Can I get some opinions on this unit?

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=779

I'm really digging its ease of implementation and the fact that I can use/upgrade any case I want without any trouble. Do you think it's got enough cooling capacity for a Core i7 and three GTX 280 GPUs?

Any feedback would be appreciated. Looks like I could get the whole system with water blocks for around $1k, which is nice.
 
Horribly over priced for what you get (pump, resevoir, radiator, fans, case).

If that's your budget though you could get a nice custom MountainMods case, pumps with tops, resevoir and a pair of triple 120mm radiators. Mountain mods also sells what they call a pedestal, which is basically an external housing for radiators and pumps so you could make your own external watercooling box. Keep in mind if you price a pedestal that you would need to add an extra panel to the order because it's designed to sit under one of their cases.
 
xp3nd4bl3 said:
Can I get some opinions on this unit?

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=779

I'm really digging its ease of implementation and the fact that I can use/upgrade any case I want without any trouble. Do you think it's got enough cooling capacity for a Core i7 and three GTX 280 GPUs?

Any feedback would be appreciated. Looks like I could get the whole system with water blocks for around $1k, which is nice.
Click to expand...

Get the unit if you want it!

I have a old Exos 1 I bought to take a old p4 2.4c to a usable 4 ghz. And it worked out great! It has been in use 24/7 on a seti or folding machine since the day I bought it. I have a old 300 class Koolance block and a Zalman 1. I run the Zalman can block on it now cooling a old E6400 OC'ed that folds 24/7. I pull the unit twice a year to blow it out and change the fluid once a year.

I get real sick of folks bagging on the koolance stuff. My old Exos is a old brick. While I like my latest roll your own cooling setup. Fact is if I applied labor and my time spent for the extra few degree's I got with the current system for my quad verses off the shelf picked right. I took it up the ass.

Get what you want. :) Well unless your a Obama supporter... Then by all means burden yourself with asking everybody then do what you want. LOLOLOLOLOL
 
psyshack said:
Get what you want. :) Well unless your a Obama supporter... Then by all means burden yourself with asking everybody then do what you want. LOLOLOLOLOL
Click to expand...

So creative. Don't bring retarded political comments to a watercooling forum.
 
I'll knock anything that has a rediculous markup because it comes put together. Koolance makes some nice blocks now but the components in that prefab system are mediocre at best and by putting something together yourself you could get more cooling capacity for less money, and if you have half an idea of what you're doing putting this together shouldn't take much more than an hour if you're putting a new external box together.
 
psyshack said:
I took it up the ass.
Click to expand...

Research helps avoid that. ;)


psyshack said:
Get what you want. :) Well unless your a Obama supporter... Then by all means burden yourself with asking everybody then do what you want. LOLOLOLOLOL
Click to expand...

Um, yea, that totally made sense to the topic at hand. :rolleyes:

As for Koolance, their pre-made kits are fine if you plan on running their pre-mix fluid. Otherwise, Koolance uses a mixed metal ALU and Copper that will tend to lead to Galvanic corrosion without an inhibitor. Unfortunetely that only slows the corrosion, not completely remove it. For most people, the maintainance requirement makes it tough to recommend.
 
More false info concerning koolance. While there are mixed metals involved. I've had no issues at all concerning them. Only used there supplied fluid one time. For many years I've used distilled water and what ever auto coolant I had on hand at the time.

No problems what so ever here.
 
That isn't false info, galvanic corrosion is very real. You're adding an anti-corrosive so of course it isn't noticably bad, but if someone runs straight DI water it'll chew up their blocks fairly quickly.
 
psyshack said:
More false info concerning koolance. While there are mixed metals involved. I've had no issues at all concerning them. Only used there supplied fluid one time. For many years I've used distilled water and what ever auto coolant I had on hand at the time.

No problems what so ever here.
Click to expand...


I'm happy you had no issues, but Galvanic corrosion is real and is NOT false info. I doubt you ran distilled water in your setup without GC pitting the surface area of any copper surface where heat is involved for any extended period of time.

Mixed metals has always been a "no no", and Koolance, while creating awesome CPU and GPU full cover blocks and fittings, runs nickel plated aluminum in their WC kits in conjunction with copper blocks and steel plugs. If you run with Koolance's fluid, it should inhibit (but not totally cure) GC from occuring. Blindly telling others that running distilled water in a Koolance WC kit is wrong.
 
psyshack said:
More false info concerning koolance. While there are mixed metals involved. I've had no issues at all concerning them. Only used there supplied fluid one time. For many years I've used distilled water and what ever auto coolant I had on hand at the time.

No problems what so ever here.
Click to expand...

Using mixed metals in a watercooling loop will ALWAYS result in galvanic corrosion. Any additive you put in the water only slows the corrosion process, you can never stop it completely. Also, any additive you put into the water will only hurt its thermal performance. Water has the highest specific heat capacity of any easily accessible and reasonable liquid, so if you want the absolute best performance in your loop, you stick with pure distilled water and a few drops of biocide. Any other additive you put in will only hurt performance.
 
MrE said:
I'm happy you had no issues, but Galvanic corrosion is real and is NOT false info. I doubt you ran distilled water in your setup without GC pitting the surface area of any copper surface where heat is involved for any extended period of time.

Mixed metals has always been a "no no", and Koolance, while creating awesome CPU and GPU full cover blocks and fittings, runs nickel plated aluminum in their WC kits in conjunction with copper blocks and steel plugs. If you run with Koolance's fluid, it should inhibit (but not totally cure) GC from occuring. Blindly telling others that running distilled water in a Koolance WC kit is wrong.
Click to expand...

One I did not Blindly tell anybody to run distilled water only in there system.

Two I have no GC at all in my old Exos. And I know of no one personally that has had issues with it in the hobby if water is prep'ed right. I've read the horror storys concerning it. And I also see it from time to time at work in large hvac or process systems. In these large systems you see it when folks don't prep or care for there water and also don't use dialectic union and other fittings.

Once a year I take mine down, Flush it out with distilled blow it all out. Open up the block and inspect the supply and discharge on the rad. I've never seen any pitting, creep or mix metal deposits.
 
dealmaster said:
Using mixed metals in a watercooling loop will ALWAYS result in galvanic corrosion. Any additive you put in the water only slows the corrosion process, you can never stop it completely. Also, any additive you put into the water will only hurt its thermal performance. Water has the highest specific heat capacity of any easily accessible and reasonable liquid, so if you want the absolute best performance in your loop, you stick with pure distilled water and a few drops of biocide. Any other additive you put in will only hurt performance.
Click to expand...

GC does not happen all the time. And it can be dealt with very easy.

As for additives in the water. Yep water is king. But yeah know. On my last build. Adding a oz or two of Honda Coolant did not effect the temps by so much as 1/10th of a degree C. Not one 1/10th.

My Exos is perfect! It's ran for years 24/7 and still runs 24/7 on a E6400. I've ran the old Koolance 200A series block and currently have a gen1 Zalman block on it. No issues. It started its life on a P4 2.4c that oc'ed great. Its since seen a mix of AMD to its current E6400.

I know several folks that run Exos systems form old to the newer stuff. None have the so called GC issue. Or the dreaded pump failures or cracked res issues chatted about on the net.

I mean come on,,, mine has been in 24/7 use since late 2002 or early 2003. Its butt ass old in the water cooling world. If GC was a real problem. Do you think it would still be running 24/7?

:)
 
In the past that was an old standby motto, but recently, their separate parts are very high quality. For example, the Koolance 4870x2 full cover block is one of two sold that have built-in standoffs. The only other one is Danger Den. It's 100% nickel-plated copper. They used to suck, but they listened to people and are changing. Don't write them off just because of the past, they are quite good now. Their 350 waterblocks give some of the lowest temperatures of any waterblock out there, at the cost of very high restriction. But you can't say now that "Koolance sucks lol".
 
novadude said:
I'll knock anything that has a rediculous markup because it comes put together. Koolance makes some nice blocks now but the components in that prefab system are mediocre at best and by putting something together yourself you could get more cooling capacity for less money, and if you have half an idea of what you're doing putting this together shouldn't take much more than an hour if you're putting a new external box together.
Click to expand...

And your opinion is based on exactly what? Mediocre at best? Considering you 1) don't have a unit so CAN"T know anything about it's components and 2) think that you can put something together that is comparable in about an hour, shows you are nothing but a troll.

To th OP, it's a fantastic unit. Try finding a unit that will keep a 4970x2 at 40c and a 8400 at 4ghz at 36-38c per core with both running full load on the same loop, ain't going to happen.

Is it overpriced? Maybe. But it's build quality is exceptional and it's performance is as well. If you have the money, want a unit that will look good out in the open and want fantastic performance, I'd say go for it without any hesitation. I did.

Btw, I haven't seen any external units from ANYONE that doesn't look like a kid trying to mod his mini-truck with neon lights. This unit has everything, a top pump, rez, fans and monitoring with display and shutdown capabilities in a solid good looking case.
 
dealmaster said:
Using mixed metals in a watercooling loop will ALWAYS result in galvanic corrosion. Any additive you put in the water only slows the corrosion process, you can never stop it completely. Also, any additive you put into the water will only hurt its thermal performance. Water has the highest specific heat capacity of any easily accessible and reasonable liquid, so if you want the absolute best performance in your loop, you stick with pure distilled water and a few drops of biocide. Any other additive you put in will only hurt performance.
Click to expand...

True but you are not telling the whole story. Koolance is now selling blocks and components that are now in the top 3 at worst, and in many cases top. All of their components are plated and if all used in a loop will have ZERO galvanic corrosion. I know, I've been running loops like this with no corrosion whatsoever.
 
santiagodraco said:
True but you are not telling the whole story. Koolance is now selling blocks and components that are now in the top 3 at worst, and in many cases top. All of their components are plated and if all used in a loop will have ZERO galvanic corrosion. I know, I've been running loops like this with no corrosion whatsoever.
Click to expand...

What are you talking about? Did you not read my previous post? That's where I talked about how their 350 block is a very good performer, albeit incredibly restrictive.

I was responding to the very real concern that this unit mixes metals and therefore will suffer from corrosion at some point. Even plating the metal won't stop it because the plating won't last forever.
 
dealmaster said:
What are you talking about? Did you not read my previous post? That's where I talked about how their 350 block is a very good performer, albeit incredibly restrictive.

I was responding to the very real concern that this unit mixes metals and therefore will suffer from corrosion at some point. Even plating the metal won't stop it because the plating won't last forever.
Click to expand...

I responded to that post not your others. Did they specifically talk about this topic?

And as for plating not stopping it "forever". What exactly are YOU talking about? That we should expect the plating to eliminate corrosion for what, several hundred years? I had no idea what the plating life span is but I'd bet it's much much longer than the expected lifespan of the pc even with a couple of overall system upgrades, at least.

In any event what we should talk about is using Koolance ALU radiators with copper only blocks (without plating). I'd totally agree there that it's not worth doing so and trying to use coolant to reduce the corrosion. It makes a lot more sense to go with a copper based radiator in those situations. But if you are running plated blocks then I'd highly recommend their radiators. Everyone should just remember that mixing is bad, but if plated it's ok. Of course the quality of plating is important but the new Koolance stuff is great, as you said Dealmaster.
 
dealmaster said:
In the past that was an old standby motto, but recently, their separate parts are very high quality. For example, the Koolance 4870x2 full cover block is one of two sold that have built-in standoffs. The only other one is Danger Den. It's 100% nickel-plated copper. They used to suck, but they listened to people and are changing. Don't write them off just because of the past, they are quite good now. Their 350 waterblocks give some of the lowest temperatures of any waterblock out there, at the cost of very high restriction. But you can't say now that "Koolance sucks lol".
Click to expand...

This must be the post you are referring to. I totally agree. Sorry for missing it :)
 
Can you show where Koolance stated that they plated aluminum parts that come in contact with water. I remember reading something about that, but then reviews showed that despite the plating, corrosion still occurred. That's what I'm referring to.
 
santiagodraco said:
And your opinion is based on exactly what? Mediocre at best? Considering you 1) don't have a unit so CAN"T know anything about it's components and 2) think that you can put something together that is comparable in about an hour, shows you are nothing but a troll.
Click to expand...

Lets see, from the products page I see:
Cheap rackmount case.
Aluminum radiator.
Radiator mounted diagonally with two fans mounted horizontally, meaning shitty airflow directly over the radiator.
No quick disconnects at the rear panel.
Mediocre performance is from the shitty airflow (5x80mm fan exhaust, only the middle of the radiator covered by the two top-panel fans) and the mid end pump on an external unit means you're stuck with low restriction blocks due to extended tubing length.

As for trolling, maybe you should go back to childhood and figure out the square peg = square hole deal. I can put together a box from MM complete with radiator, pump reservoir and tubing inside in well under 20 minutes, mount the heatsink and plum the loop on the case interior and fill the whole system in under an hour from start to finish
 
There seems to be a bit of confusion here...

First, we have never plated aluminum, we plate all our copper blocks. Also there is G1/4 threading on the back of the unit, I personally feel that is far better than shutoff valves as it allows the customer to use whatever he wants on the unit (maybe he wants the shutoff valve on the computer side? Maybe he wants VL2 instead of VL3 shutoff valves?).

The thing is, this system isn't targeted at the DIY extreme users. There are many different niches of the water cooling industry
 
[Koolance] Dean;1033967506 said:
There seems to be a bit of confusion here...

First, we have never plated aluminum, we plate all our copper blocks. Also there is G1/4 threading on the back of the unit, I personally feel that is far better than shutoff valves as it allows the customer to use whatever he wants on the unit (maybe he wants the shutoff valve on the computer side? Maybe he wants VL2 instead of VL3 shutoff valves?).

The thing is, this system isn't targeted at the DIY extreme users. There are many different niches of the water cooling industry
Click to expand...

You damn well have anodized your aluminum and advocated it was safe...;)
 
Anodizing was done on the blocks that used aluminum as a top. So your standard system, circa 2007, you had both anodized aluminum and plated copper, along with a coolant that had corrosion inhibitor.

But that was two years ago, today it is completely possible to totally avoid aluminum and construct a fully Koolance system. :D
 
There some here that need to tone it down or I will do it for them.

Keep to the facts, support your assertions and remain calm. Open discussion is encouraged, flinging monkey poo is not.
 
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